Giorgio Armani A/W 2014

Six male models wearing looks from Giorgio Armani's collection. Two are wearing dark suits, blue shirts, waistcoats and glasses. A third model is wearing a brown suit, a fourth model is wearing a dark shirt and grey trousers and the final two models are wearing grey and black short fur jackets

(Image credit: Anna Stokland, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

In the middle of a strong sartorial moment in menswear, Giorgio Armani, one of the forefathers of modern suiting, has his own imprint on the movement. Though he first established his signature style in fluidity and flow, Armani has now calibrated his cutting closer to the body. That means jackets assume the fit, form and function of a cosy cardigan sweater. Even with their sculpted torsos and narrow shoulders, the jackets for next winter were soft but substantive, featuring the season's new heathered or pebbly surfaced wools. Of course, when he turned his attention to actual sweaters, which also made a major imprint on the runway, Armani did so in a boldly artistic manner. Asymmetrically zipped, colour-blocked sweaters made novelty knitwear almost as new as Armani's latest obsession with the three-piece suit - featuring double-breasted waistcoats.

Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans

Six male models wearing looks from Giorgio Armani's collection. They are wearing blue and grey suits, shirts and waistcoats. One model is holding a bag and there is a seventh person hidden behind one of the models also holding a bag

Multiple people in a room with a close up view of five men wearing dark coloured trousers, shirts and jackets. One man is wearing sunglasses and another two men are wearing glasses with clear lenses

Two male models wearing looks from Giorgio Armani's collection. Both models are wearing blue trousers with one model wearing a blue jumper and another model wearing a wine coloured jumper and holding a similar coloured bag. They are both wearing glasses and behind them are shelves with multiple bags and shoes

Three male models wearing looks from Giorgio Armani's collection. Two models are wearing crew neck tops, black suits and waistcoats. The third model is holding a bag and is wearing a blue and black collarless shirt, blue trousers and a black coat

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JJ Martin