A tour of Barrie Knitwear in Scotland

Chanel recently added Barrie knitwear to its Paraffection family in October. The Hawick-based cashmere business has been an integral part of Chanel's knitwear output, producing the yarns for the likes of its iconic two-tone cardigans

(Image credit: press)

By Jack Moss

last updated 27 October 2022

Middle of production for Chanel cardigans — Wallpaper's visit to the knitwear manufacturers was well-timed, as they were in the middle of production for one of the classic Chanel cardigans for the brand's Spring collection

The highly-skilled factory workers in action

An archive photograph of Barrie Knitwear. The business was established at the turn of the 20th century, when two local entrepreneurs Walter Barrie and Robert Kersel opened a factory in Hawick with the aim of manufacturing fine knitted hose and underwear

Middle of production Chanel cardigans for the brand's Spring collection

The business was established at the turn of the 20th century, when two local entrepreneurs Walter Barrie and Robert Kersel opened a factory in Hawick with the aim of manufacturing fine knitted hose and underwear

(Image credit: press)

Image of colourful threads — A kaleidoscope of colourful threads

High quality cashmere — As well as its production for Chanel, Barrie Knitwear also manufactures high quality cashmere for other couture houses. Chanel's acquisition of the company will not affect Barrie's partnerships with these other luxury brands

The hand-work process of knitwear — The hand-work process that goes into the making of a piece of knitwear is incredibly intricate

Situated in the Scottish Borders, the Hawick-based cashmere business has long been an integral part of Chanel's knitwear output

The Bently Cotton, described as 'a priceless piece of machinery' by Chanel fashion president Bruno Pavlovsky

Washing stage which purportly softens the cashmere and rids it of chemicals — The all important washing stage, which purportly softens the cashmere and rids it of chemicals. There are standard timings, but the garment is constantly checked by experienced hands, which can tell if a specific product needs more or less time in the washing machine

A technician checks the cardigan over after the washing stage...

A technician checks the size or quality after a wash — ... testing stringently for any imperfections in either size or quality after a wash

Cardigan a final press — A technician gives the Chanel cardigan a final press

Employee checks the measurements and details — Another employee checks the measurements and details of the finished creation. Production quantities vary across the different products, but there would be approximately 1600 cardigans made in this particular style

Bundles of threads — Traditional expertise and craftsmanship are very much at the fore of Barrie Knitwear

The hand-cutting of v-neck cardigans requires great skill, requiring years of training before a first cut is attempted

Measuring of button spacing — A tool designed for the measuring of button spacing

Employee of the Barrie Knitwear in Scotland — Chanel's acquisition of the Scottish artisan house secures the jobs of its 176 employees

Snowy landscape outside the Barrie Knitwear — The snowy landscape outside the Barrie Knitwear factory

Photo of the finished cardigan — A Chanel label completes the finished cardigan

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.