A tour of Barrie Knitwear in Scotland
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Wallpaper's visit to the knitwear manufacturers was well-timed, as they were in the middle of production for one of the classic Chanel cardigans for the brand's Spring collection
The highly-skilled factory workers in action
An archive photograph of Barrie Knitwear. The business was established at the turn of the 20th century, when two local entrepreneurs Walter Barrie and Robert Kersel opened a factory in Hawick with the aim of manufacturing fine knitted hose and underwear
The business was established at the turn of the 20th century, when two local entrepreneurs Walter Barrie and Robert Kersel opened a factory in Hawick with the aim of manufacturing fine knitted hose and underwear
A kaleidoscope of colourful threads
As well as its production for Chanel, Barrie Knitwear also manufactures high quality cashmere for other couture houses. Chanel's acquisition of the company will not affect Barrie's partnerships with these other luxury brands
The hand-work process that goes into the making of a piece of knitwear is incredibly intricate
Situated in the Scottish Borders, the Hawick-based cashmere business has long been an integral part of Chanel's knitwear output
The Bently Cotton, described as 'a priceless piece of machinery' by Chanel fashion president Bruno Pavlovsky
Machine work in progress on the Bentley
The all important washing stage, which purportly softens the cashmere and rids it of chemicals. There are standard timings, but the garment is constantly checked by experienced hands, which can tell if a specific product needs more or less time in the washing machine
A technician checks the cardigan over after the washing stage...
... testing stringently for any imperfections in either size or quality after a wash
A technician gives the Chanel cardigan a final press
Another employee checks the measurements and details of the finished creation. Production quantities vary across the different products, but there would be approximately 1600 cardigans made in this particular style
Traditional expertise and craftsmanship are very much at the fore of Barrie Knitwear
The hand-cutting of v-neck cardigans requires great skill, requiring years of training before a first cut is attempted
Shelves full of threads
A tool designed for the measuring of button spacing
Chanel's acquisition of the Scottish artisan house secures the jobs of its 176 employees
The snowy landscape outside the Barrie Knitwear factory
A Chanel label completes the finished cardigan
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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