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‘From nature, to nature’ – so goes the tagline for Jacob Cohën’s latest capsule collection, which sees the artisanal Italian denim brand create a series of products which are entirely biodegradable.
Among these are two pairs of jeans – the brand’s slim-fit ‘Bard’ and ‘Scott’ styles – reimagined in 100 per cent compostable stretch denim. Internal labels, linings, back labels and thread are also biodegradable, while buttons can be screwed off. The fabric itself is majority organic-certified cotton, with a little natural rubber for a gentle stretch.
With this, Jacob Cöhen say they are the most sustainable denim jeans on the market, the latest step in an ongoing pursuit of environmentally sound design solutions – a project led by president and artistic director Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle, who began at the brand in 2012.
‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
Her tenure so far – which began after the death of husband Nicola Bardelle, son of Jacob Cohën founder Tato Bardelle – has been defined by such a forward-thinking approach. In February, following a successful collaborative capsule collection, she appointed young American designer Matthew Adams Dolan to helm Jacob Cohën’s womenswear from S/S 2024 (he is best known for his eponymous label, which riffed on American archetypes, and collaborations with Rihanna at LVMH-backed label Fenty).
‘Jacob Cohën is a very elegant brand, but it required that kick to move into the fashion world,’ she told Wallpaper* at the time, speaking of her desire to push the 1985-founded brand towards new consumers. ‘And in order to do this, I needed someone younger than me.’
Completing the ‘Endless Luxury’ collection, which arrives in stores and online today (March 20, 2023), are a classic denim trucker jacket (its composition similar to the jeans) and two organic cotton T-shirts with a motif on the chest. The label’s dedication to made-in-Italy craft continues to the packaging: a specially designed 100 per cent organic cotton tote bag, decorated with water-based prints.
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‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
‘Endless Luxury’ collection by Jacob Cohën
Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.