Optical outing: Arthur Arbesser and Iceberg’s new era
Arthur Arbesser, the Austrian-born, Vienna-raised and London-educated wunderkind is sending graphic shockwaves through the Italian fashion capital. If Milan symbolises a distinctly Italian idea of sophisticated sex appeal dominated by the old guard of Italian design, then Arbesser’s frenzied eclecticism and penchant for pushing at the boundaries of taste signal a change of direction in the city’s fashion scene.
Last year, he consolidated a meteoric rise when his eponymous brand reached the final shortlist of the prestigious LVMH Prize; shortly after, he was also was announced as the new creative director of womenswear at Iceberg.
Arbesser’s first collection for the quirky Italian label was exactly what was required: an energetic reinterpretation of Iceberg’s eclectic archive with an experimentalism and daring that’s leading Milan’s new style stampede.
Running two labels can be a strain, though Arbesser shows no cracks: ‘Iceberg stands for colour, graphics and elevated sportswear – all things I can completely relate to my own label,’ he says. In many respects, his art-influenced aesthetic is a perfect fit with his new appointment, and the two distinct labels still find points of overlap in Arbesser’s self-proclaimed ‘design language’ – namely ‘a love of art and the brave and humorous usage of colour, logo and patterns’.
That said, his vision for Iceberg is firmly rooted in the brand’s history, right back to its founding message. ‘Knitwear!’ he exclaims, ‘Knitwear is Iceberg’s strongest area, and they have an amazing history, archive and knowledge base. The majority of this season's collection was knitwear, and I definitely want to do a lot of incredibly creative knits each season, to make the most out of the fantastic technical know-how that Iceberg has.’
The S/S 2016 collection drew heavily on the work of Enrico Baj, the appropriately avant-garde artist and critic whose works loom large in the 20th century surrealist canon. ‘I always tend to start a collection from something personal and since I’ve been a big fan of Baj's work for years, it all just fell naturally into place. I love his irony and the amazing patterns,’ he says. Baj’s work resonated strongly with Arbesser’s vision for his new creative venture. ‘That mix of military details and mad colours and graphics is full of humor and energy,' he concludes. 'It was perfect for Iceberg.’
INFORMATION
For more information, visit Iceberg’s website
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Alternative Easter eggs: chocolate-free but cracking gifts and indulgences
The humble egg, Easter's favourite ingredient, celebrated in five alternative forms, from a picnic cutlery canteen to a fabulous foamy dessert
By Caragh McKay Published
-
The Devil is a flawed everyman in Nick Cave’s ceramics
A show of Nick Cave’s ceramics, ‘The Devil – A Life’ at Xavier Hufkens in Brussels, explores the complex character
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Sweet Easter treats to tweet about
Five Easter treats, from chocolate chicks and rabbits to almond cake, that are delectable enough to gift all year round
By Caragh McKay Published
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024: Giorgio Armani to Bottega Veneta
The very best of Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024, from Giorgio Armani’s celebration of renewal to the ’monumental everyday’ at Bottega Veneta
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Nick Waplington photographs architect Joseph Grima for Stone Island’s ‘research project’
Marking the latest Stone Island Ghost collection, Joseph Grima is photographed by Nick Waplington against the backdrop of Oscar Niemeyer’s 1970s-built Palazzo Mondadori in Milan
By Jack Moss Published
-
Paul & Shark hits the slopes with a Cortina ski resort takeover
‘Paul & Shark takes Cortina’ sees the label take over the Italian ski resort, kitting out the town’s ski club and Scoiattoli chalet
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Jonathan Anderson on his new store in Milan, an ode to the city’s design codes
For his second JW Anderson store – and first outside of London – Jonathan Anderson has set up shop in Milan with a space that pays homage to the city’s stylistic codes. Here, he tells Wallpaper* the story behind the opening
By Jack Moss Published
-
Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson on exalting and reimagining the Welsh stick chair at Milan Design Week
‘Loewe Chairs’ saw the designer look towards a longtime fascination – the humble Welsh stick chair, here reimagined in a raft of colourful and inventive new ways by world artisans
By Scarlett Conlon Published
-
BOYY unites with Danish artist FOS for an unconventional take on retail in Milan
Opening during Milan Design Week 2023, the flagship BOYY store sees the Milan- and Bangkok-based accessories brand collaborate with FOS on an evolving, unexpected retail space in the city’s luxury quarter
By Maria Cristina Didero Published
-
Sunnei launches its first Objects collection
Italian label Sunnei launches a range of lifestyle pieces, ranging from pillows to puzzles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Aitor Throup launches first Anatomyland prototypes as NFTs
By Laura Hawkins Last updated