What makes a piece of jewellery iconic? It has to ‘influence, shift or make a considerable contribution to the evolution of jewellery,’ says editor Melanie Grant, who has been defining the criteria for the new Phiadon tome, The Jewelry Book. Over the last two centuries, the jewellery legends which have endured encompass striking design, considered craftsmanship and sharp innovation, a reflection of the unique status jewellery holds as an expression of freedom.
Aurora Anthony wears the Johnny Nelson 4 Fingers of Def and Her Freedom four-finger rings, 2020.
‘I felt it was important to include a variety of scale - including global brands, mid-sized and niche single artists,’ Grants adds on the artists, institutions, collectors and style icons who made the cut. ‘Also all cultures, art movements and eras, from the historical to the contemporary and also costume, fine, high and art jewellery. Within that, we pulled out seminal examples of creativity that flowed together in harmony when looking at the last 200 years of jewellery.’
Diana Vreeland wearing her signature warrior-style cuffs, 1982
Jewellery in the book is both established – from heritage houses including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co – and contemporary; Joe Sheehan’s argillite chains and John Moore’s necklaces made from Morphit (clay mixed with recycled paper) are more modern additions. Artists who have dipped their toe into the jewellery world, including Louise Bourgeois and Salvador Dalí, are also included here. What unites them? ‘Greatness,’ says Grant.
Sabba, est. Paris, France, 2014. Jet and diamond earrings in titanium and yellow gold, set with two marquise-cut diamonds weighing 2.35 and 1.69 carats, 2021
‘I hope jewellery experts discover new and unexpected people, ideas and moments in jewellery,’ she adds ‘For novices, students or hobbyists, I hope they will start their journey with us, by understanding the journeys of some of the most prolific instigators of jewellery over the past two centuries. For makers, collectors, designers, brand teams and the trade, I hope they see this as an important overview of a market constantly in flux. It's tough out there at the moment but it's important to remember that the entire course of jewellery is cyclical. Its depth of meaning owes much to its longevity and desirability as material culture.’
Nikos Koulis. ME Collection one-of-a-kind necklace with 9.13 carats of pear-shaped white diamonds set in brushed yellow gold, 2024.
Hemmerle, est. Munich, Germany, 1893. One-of-a-kind bracelet in iron and white gold set with a diamond weighing more than 16 carats, 2023
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