Traditional jewellery codes are rewritten in the hands of Boghosisan, which brings an unexpected fluidity to high jewellery in pieces imbued with a cutting-edge technicality.
With the unveiling of the latest collection, ‘Diaphane Mesh’, the Swiss-based jeweller continues its emphasis on genuinely innovative technical expertise, with pieces that weave together precious gemstones as lightly as if they were fabric. ‘It has [long] been an aspiration for us to create a net of gemstones as fine and flexible as the finest cloth, which would allow their sparkling light to mould seamlessly to the body of the wearer,’ says Boghossian managing partner Roberto Boghossian.
Boghossian ‘Diaphane Mesh’ collection
‘However, it is only in the early 21st century, with a breakthrough in jewellery-making technology, that it has been achieved. Boghossian is proud to announce the production of “Diaphane”, the thinnest and most flexible gemstone mesh ever created, a combination of meticulous engineering and painstaking handiwork.’ The woven mesh is so fine as to be almost transparent, ensuring pieces are not only comfortable to wear but also play on a brilliant refraction of light in their diaphanous design.
All extraneous metal has been removed from the mounting of the mesh to ensure its fluid and light appearance, in what proved a considerably challenging process. ‘It is then miniaturised with 3D-printing technology,’ adds Boghossian. ‘The hundreds (if not thousands) of stones are then hand-mounted and the links are painstakingly laser-soldered together.’
In these new pieces, the mesh makes an elegant gossamer foil for both the richness of a hypnotising opal and the patterns of diamonds. Designed to move fluidly with the wearer, earrings graze the shoulders and a collar necklace drapes insouciantly over the collarbone.
‘Not just a technological breakthrough, Diaphane provides a platform for us to achieve previously unrealisable designs,’ says Boghossian.
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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