Boghossian’s new high jewellery is a technical triumph

Boghossian unveils new high jewellery pieces for Masterpiece Online 2021. Here we explore the collection and its dazzling technical feats

Left, diamond earrings set into blue stones and right, a long diamond necklace on a chain
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Boghossian’s jewels encompass an intricate technicality that brings a light fluidity to high jewellery. The Geneva-based brand is most famously celebrated for its Merveilles technique, where stones are placed next to each other – not quite touching, they appear magically to float, with none of the metal holding them in place visible. The light-filled results hover over earlobes or coil around collarbones for comfortable high jewellery that moves with the wearer.

Diamond and titanium butterfly earrings

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Long dangling diamond earrings with two blue sapphires

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‘The patented Merveilles technique is truly innovative and unique,’ points out Boghossian managing partner Roberto Boghossian. ‘We have made it possible for diamonds to be set on all sides of a jewel, as if they were floating on a nearly invisible metal structure. This revolutionary technique brings brightness to a whole new level because there is so little gold involved. The diamonds are the ones holding each other and sharing their light.’

The technique is demonstrated in the diamond ‘Sphere’ earrings and pendant, which knit diamonds into hypnotising patterns; in the ‘Icicle’ earrings, a sharp point of interwoven diamonds dangles from a flawless pair of Ceylon sapphires. Other pieces play with volume: marquise-shaped diamonds, sitting carefully on vivid Paraiba tourmalines, bring a tantalising depth, while a Madagascar sapphire resting in sapphire and cabochons, all set into chalcedony and mother-of-pearl, is a play on layering.

It joins other clever techniques that bring an airy weightlessness to high jewellery. The titanium fibre ‘Butterfly’ earrings, pendant and ring draw diamond-framed wings filled with gossamer-thin strands of titanium that shimmer as the wearer moves.

‘Designing jewellery is like painting with light,’ adds Boghossian. ‘Since gold can act as an obstacle, we aim to find new ways to part away from it as much as possible. This has been the case in all our innovative techniques: finding the best settings to enhance the gems – allowing them to shine freely. With titanium fibre, the material used is so delicate yet airy, which gives this appearance of lightness and fluidity.’

Diamond earrings in ball shapes appearing to float

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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.