We're drawn to yellow gold's primal light

Split picture of models in gold jewellery

Left, ‘Reef’ ring in 18ct Siam gold and diamonds, £1,750, by Patcharavipa. ‘Helicoid’ earring in 24ct gold plate, £275 per pair, by Olivia Barthe Jewellery. Top, £590, by Jil Sander. Right, earrings in papier-mâché and resin, commission only, by Hélène de Sant Lager. ‘Eye’ gold vermeil blue cabochon bracelet, £239, by Sonia Petroff. Dress, £2,980, by Valentino. Roll-neck, £250; trousers, price on request, by Acne Studios. Shoes, €595, by Pierre Hardy. Photography: Camille Summers-Valli. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes

(Image credit: Camille Summers-Valli)

By Hannah Silver

published 14 January 2020

While watch and jewellery designers tended to embrace the warm, coppery tones of rose gold in the last decade, the primal power of yellow gold has risen once again. In ancient times, this gleaming earth-born metal was thought to possess mystical powers, with ancient cultures believing it to emit the energy-giving power of the sun.

Bauhaus colour theory, too, recognises the enduring allure of yellow chroma – for Kandinsky, who associated shapes with musical notes, yellow, with its bright nature, was both a middle C on a trumpet and a sharp, uncompromising triangle in form.

For jewellers such as Annelise Michelson, thick loops of golden metal pack a powerful sartorial punch when plaited into a bold cuff, while Misho’s huge pear-drop loop earrings offer a glinting fragility, showcasing a more delicate side to the metal’s tough nature.

Paris sculptor Hélène de Saint Lager, meanwhile, synthetically heightens the textural quality of gold in its raw state by way of her signature papier-mâché and resin alchemy. It's the dawning of a shining new era.

Gold Jewellery — Estruscan-style gold cuffs, £30,600 each, by Van Cleef & Arpels. ‘Carla’ clip (top right) in 18ct Siam gold plate, £150; ‘Sara’ clip (centre left) in 18ct Siam gold plate, with fancy vivid blue diamonds, £420, both by Patcharavipa. ‘L’esprit du Lion’ earrings in 18ct gold, beryls and diamonds, price on request, by Chanel Fine Jewellery. Watches & Jewellery Director: Caragh McKay. Fashion: Jason Hughes

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Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.