Taipei revealed: we tap into its cultural heartland

Taipei revealed wallpaper magazine
Architecture and design from Taipei, illustrated by David Jien on the cover of our December issue Taipei supplement
(Image credit: David Jien)

Much has been made Taipei’s dull built environment and supposed lack of attractions. The criticism is as uninformed as it is misleading, for among Asia’s glittering cohort of dragon cities, the Taiwanese capital stands out for its unalloyed potential. All that’s required is a little strategic digging and scraping to get below the metropolis’ skin.

Based on our recent visit, we are pleased to report that there is much to admire about Taipei, and plenty of reasons to swing by. There is a heady sense of optimism in the air – perhaps best experienced from the dizzying heights of the W Taipei’s Bar at Yen, looking out over the city’s myriad skyscrapers and ever-expanding greenery.

On the streets, ideally explored on a carbon-neutral bicycle, a brave new generation of architects, property developers and urban planners is striving to spruce up dilapidated spaces and buildings, turning them into new cultural centres. Also breaking new ground are ambitious towers and building projects designed by both local and overseas architects such as Kris Yao, Fumihiko Maki, Toyo Ito and Marco Casagrande.

Similarly, a returning diaspora of well-educated graphic and industrial designers, fashion mavens and entrepreneurs works hard alongside young émigrés from America and Europe to weave fresh ideas and new patterns into the city’s social and creative fabric.

This admirable agility to blend past, present and future is something that seems to come naturally to the Taiwanese. Their beloved tea ceremonies, for instance, may be steeped in tradition, but the tea itself is fabulously packaged. And when even ancient Ming chairs can be reimagined in bright red plastic, you know these are interesting times to be in Taipei.

Yes, there is every reason to applaud the city’s incredible journey from regional backwater to 21st-century metropolis, but it’s equally clear that Taipei still has plenty of tricks up its sleeve.

Taipei city aerial view

Work in progress
As the architectural transformation gathers pace, a new cultural park and stadium are shaping up nicely

(Image credit: Jeremy Liebman)

creative leader Imin Pao checking plants

Team Taiwan
Thanks to a lengthening list of local innovators, the 'Made in Taiwan' label is now synonymous with cutting-edge, home-grown design. Among Taipei's creative leaders is Imin Pao, art director, editor, brand and design consultant, curator and co-founder of biweekly magazine PPaper

(Image credit: Jeremy Liebman)

VVG Bistro founder Grace Wang

Team Taiwan
Grace Wang founded VVG Bistro in 1999 and now - 14 years later - the brand has evolved into a mini-empire, including the upscale restaurant VVG Table, bookstore VVG Something (pictured here), patisserie VVG Bon Bon and the newly opened VVG Thinking, a restaurant, bookstore and work area occupying two floors of a former factory

(Image credit: press)

aiwan's Coco Chanel, Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia (left and Product designer Hsieh Jung-Ya (right)

Team Taiwan
Hailed as Taiwan's Coco Chanel, Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia (left) founded her fashion house Shiatzy Chen in 1978 and now has 59 boutiques across Asia. Product designer Hsieh Jung-Ya (right) is the founder of Duck Image Studio and Gixia Group, and has racked up more trophies than any other Taiwanese designer, including the Red Dot Design Award and the International Design Excellence Award

(Image credit: press)

potted guide to the tea ceremony, plus contemporary accessories

Pot luck
A potted guide to the tea ceremony, plus contemporary accessories. See our December issue for more details

(Image credit: Frank Hülsbömer)

Fashion designer Quoc Pham takes us on his favourite 40km ride in and around Taipei

Route master
Fashion designer Quoc Pham takes us on his favourite 40km ride in and around Taipei...

(Image credit: Jeremy Liebman)

Taipei's Da'an district, filled with independent boutiques and cafes

Route master
... stopping off in Taipei's Da'an district, filled with independent boutiques and cafes, such as the G A I Art Gallery on Qingtian Street...

(Image credit: press)

Café Trouvé (left) on Taishun Street and Café Kuroshio (right) on Heping East Road

Route master
... as well as Café Trouvé (left) on Taishun Street and Café Kuroshio (right) on Heping East Road

(Image credit: press)

Quoc Pham and his sketches

Route master
Quoc Pham in his Bade Road Studio, where he handcrafts traditional touring bicycle shoes in natural leather. On the right are his sketches and tools

(Image credit: press)

Quoc's grand tour

Route master
Quoc's grand tour, illustrated by Nathalie Lees

(Image credit: Nathalie Lees)

Taiwan's best new furniture designer

All tied up
We show you the ropes with our pick of Taiwan's best new furniture designers. See our December issue for more details

(Image credit: Frank Hülsbömer)

Beitou Library with surrounding greenery

Urban oases
Pockets of greenery, culture and fun are miraculously popping up all around Taipei's densely built districts. Pictured is the Beitou Library, by Bio Architecture Formosana

(Image credit: Frank Hülsbömer)

illegal settlement transformed into new cultural centre

Urban oases
From left: Treasure Hill, a former illegal settlement transformed by activists - including architect Marco Casagrande - into an artists' village; Art Yard, a new cultural centre housing a handful of design shops and cafés

(Image credit: press)

seafood bar

Urban oases
Addiction Aquatic Development comprises ten different spaces, from a popular seafood bar to a sushi stall, outdoor grill and hotpot restaurant

(Image credit: press)

Daan Forest Station

Urban oases
Daan Forest Station is a two-level underground metro stop with a naturally lit hall and sunken garden featuring a circular cascade and plaza

(Image credit: press)

designer Pili Wu amid the bustling Shuanglian Market

Streets ahead
Three of Taipei's top creatives take us to their favourite haunts in the city. Pictured here is designer Pili Wu amid the bustling Shuanglian Market, where he goes to find inspiration within its many handicraft shops

(Image credit: Jeremy Liebman)

Architect Shu-Chang Kung (left) and Curator Rita Chang

Streets ahead
Architect Shu-Chang Kung (left) chose 44 South Village, a former veterans' community that now hosts a popular Sunday market and Good Cho's, a cafe/lifestyle store. Curator Rita Chang picked out Spot Taipei Film House, the former residence of the US ambassador, now home to an art-house cinema, café, garden and bookshop

(Image credit: press)

Daven Wu is the Singapore Editor at Wallpaper*. A former corporate lawyer, he has been covering Singapore and the neighbouring South-East Asian region since 1999, writing extensively about architecture, design, and travel for both the magazine and website. He is also the City Editor for the Phaidon Wallpaper* City Guide to Singapore.