A local's guide to Dakar by ceramicist Faty Ly

(Image credit: Courtesy of Faty Ly)

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Where to stay
Where to eat and drink
What to do
Where to shop

published 9 November 2024

Situated on the westernmost point of mainland Africa, Dakar has a long history as being a gateway city where people, ideas and culture have intermingled. As the home of the Dakar Art and Design Biennale, now in its 15th edition and institutions such as Black Rock, it has established itself as Africa’s principal art and design capital. We spoke to Dakar-based artist and ceramist Faty Ly artist about her top recommendations in the city for the creatively minded.

What to see and do in Dakar, Senegal

Where to stay

Nyéléni Maison Sahel

‘In Yoff, built in red mud, Nyéléni is a unique luxurious oasis that offers a blend of Senegalese craftsmanship and modern amenities with personalised touches.’

Nyéléni Maison Sahel is located at 27 Rue YF 109, @nyelenimaisondhotes

Where to eat and drink

Restaurant Le Thiof

‘This is one of my favourite restaurants. I recommend it for all meat lovers, especially for the méchoui, where a whole sheep or lamb is spit-roasted.’

Restaurant Le Thiof is located at 9 bis Rue, @lethiofresto

Pullman Dakar Teranga

‘The restaurant at this hotel is great for people-watching with a drink. Its thiéboudienne [the national dish made with rice, fish and vegetables] attracts locals dressed in their sophisticated boubous.’

Pullman Dakar Teranga is located at Place de l'Independance, 10 Rue PL 29, @pullmandakarteranga

Dakar Music Hall at Phare des Mamelles

‘Located in an 1864 lighthouse, this is the place for live music and great bands.’

Phare des Mamelles is located at Mamelles, Rte de l'Aeroport, @pharedesmamelles

What to do

Galerie Atiss

‘Not far from the famous Soumbédioune market, this well-thought-out space, featuring locally created textiles and furniture, is where African design, art and craftsmanship meet.’

Galerie Atiss is located at Rue 23, Medina x Boulevard Martin Luther King, @galerieatissdakar

Musée des Civilisations Noires

‘This is one of the most successful cultural projects in the country. It gives a sense of pride and appeases our collective memory as Black people.’

Musée des Civilisations Noires is located at Autoroute prolongée x Place de la Gare, @mcndakar

Gare de Dakar

‘Dakar’s historic train station is considered to be a colonial-era masterpiece. As a ceramicist, I appreciate each detail of the façade, as it features mainly ceramic tiles with floral patterns and shimmering colours.’

Spa Escale d’Orient

‘A truly relaxing spa experience incorporating great massage skills.’

Spa Escale d’Orient is located at Rue FN 21, @escaledorientspadakar

Route de la Corniche Ouest

‘Dakar is a peninsula and I never tire of watching the gorgeous bay with its blue water from the West Corniche, especially the view from the Mosquée de la Divinité towards Ouakam beach.’

Where to shop

Nahyel

‘This city centre concept store epitomises the excellence of African craftsmanship as far as fashion, leather accessories and jewellery are concerned.’

Nahyel is located at 1 Av. Carde, @nahyelconceptstore

Mazzi Odu is a Ugandan-British writer, editor and cultural consultant based in Lagos, Nigeria. Her work focuses on jewellery, design, fashion and art. An alumna of the London School of Economics and Political Science, she has profiled a cross section of leading design talents and creative voices, with a special emphasis on those from the Global South and its Diaspora communities.