Stöcklin’s collection, conceived in a classic black and white palette, explores the concept of the fashion faux pas, as seen in an intentionally visible panty line or oversized trousers folded over at the waist. ‘It’s about subtle deformities,’ says Stöcklin. Dream collaborator: Pipilotti Rist.
‘Tie’ bench (far left and throughout), by Isabelle Baudraz, for Tectona
Sartorial swerve: the fashion graduates with flying colours
Photography: Aditya Babbar. Fashion: Lune Kuipers. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Babin, winner of this year’s Hilary Alexander Trailblazer Award at Graduate Fashion Week, creates bold silhouettes with colourful patterns and sculptural sleeves influenced by the traditions and lifestyles of two dynasties, Chagga and Swahili, native to her home country of Tanzania. Dream collaborator: Marc Jacobs.
Boots, £445, by Church’s
Kelly-Pain, whose technique bridges the worlds of fashion and sculpture, modelled her menswear collection on the memory of her brother’s childhood clothing. Her process is based on casting clothing in plaster, which is painted with layers of latex, then gluing these layers into garments. Dream collaborator: Craig Green.
maureenkellypain@gmail.com
Shoes, £170, by Geox. Socks, £14, by Falke. ‘Tie’ bench (far left and throughout), by Isabelle Baudraz, for Tectona
McDonald’s menswear collection, a winner at International Talent Support 2018, offers a proportion-exploring take on the suit, focusing on the torso and with trousers that flow from the waist. ‘How something feels to wear is very important,’ says McDonald, who is showing at Pitti Uomo 95 in January. Dream collaborator: Daniel Meadows.
Shoes, £170, Geox
Kuurila’s collection, which features both men’s and women’s looks and incorporates materials such as silk, viscose satin and cotton poplin, was inspired by musician Nick Cave. ‘I was attracted to his seemingly dark character, as well as in the fading line between masculinity and femininity.’ Dream collaborator: Nick Cave.
emilia.kuurila@gmail.com
Sandals, £575, by Manolo Blahnik
It took Peru-born Balta six months to programme the manual loom on which she constructed her wonderfully textured designs, which incorporate pearls, golden yarns, technical fabrics and rope. Balta won the Vogue Talents Awards at this year’s Milano Moda Graduate. Dream collaborator: Jonathan Anderson.
US-born Schali and Croatian Kapchitz aimed to capture the decadence of 1920s opium dens and the artisanal skill of nomadic tribes in southern Ethiopia, with crushed velvet and threadbare knitwear sitting alongside animal-hide skirts and metal tailoring. Dream collaborator: Leather company Roban’s.
elijah.schali@gmail.com; noakapchitz@gmail.com
Shoes, £700, by Cherevichkiotvichki
Fascinated by the models of masculinity as pursued by young men during adolescence, the South Korean designer used bulges within fabric to subvert notions of form. ‘I wanted to make a joke out of my obsessive pursuit of masculinity,’ Jung says. Dream collaborator: Dimitris Papaioannou.
dohanjung.wixsite.com/dohanjung
China-born knitwear designer Rui Zhou ascribes to the Japanese concept of ‘Wabi- sabi’, exploring the beauty in imperfections. Her colourful, clingy, ribbed knitwear designs, sporting holes and cut-outs, come in delicately knitted and bead-embellished layers. Dream collaborator: Rei Kawakubo.
-
Watch dance, music and film collide at a unique event at Abbey Road StudiosIn this exclusive film, watch Abbey Road’s first Artist in Residence, Jordan Rakei, collaborate with industry-leading creatives to produce a dance performance in the hallowed Studio One
-
Frances Elkins gets her dues at Christie's this JuneYou can soon take home a piece of the legendary American designer’s legacy…including a $3 million Alberto Giacometti sculpture.
-
The new Phone 2 Pro from CMF combines generous scale with true affordabilityWe explore the ins and outs of the CMF Phone 2 Pro, the newest device from the Nothing sub-brand that focuses on bold design and carefully honed value engineering
-
Graduate Directory 2020: FashionWe’ve combed through institutions, ateliers and workshops around the world to uncover the best in class
-
FashionFashion's youngest and brightest take the sartorial reins
-
FashionOur in-house experts scour the globe to present our pick of the most exciting fledgling fashion designers
