Stöcklin’s collection, conceived in a classic black and white palette, explores the concept of the fashion faux pas, as seen in an intentionally visible panty line or oversized trousers folded over at the waist. ‘It’s about subtle deformities,’ says Stöcklin. Dream collaborator: Pipilotti Rist.
‘Tie’ bench (far left and throughout), by Isabelle Baudraz, for Tectona
Sartorial swerve: the fashion graduates with flying colours
Photography: Aditya Babbar. Fashion: Lune Kuipers. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Babin, winner of this year’s Hilary Alexander Trailblazer Award at Graduate Fashion Week, creates bold silhouettes with colourful patterns and sculptural sleeves influenced by the traditions and lifestyles of two dynasties, Chagga and Swahili, native to her home country of Tanzania. Dream collaborator: Marc Jacobs.
Boots, £445, by Church’s
Kelly-Pain, whose technique bridges the worlds of fashion and sculpture, modelled her menswear collection on the memory of her brother’s childhood clothing. Her process is based on casting clothing in plaster, which is painted with layers of latex, then gluing these layers into garments. Dream collaborator: Craig Green.
maureenkellypain@gmail.com
Shoes, £170, by Geox. Socks, £14, by Falke. ‘Tie’ bench (far left and throughout), by Isabelle Baudraz, for Tectona
McDonald’s menswear collection, a winner at International Talent Support 2018, offers a proportion-exploring take on the suit, focusing on the torso and with trousers that flow from the waist. ‘How something feels to wear is very important,’ says McDonald, who is showing at Pitti Uomo 95 in January. Dream collaborator: Daniel Meadows.
Shoes, £170, Geox
Kuurila’s collection, which features both men’s and women’s looks and incorporates materials such as silk, viscose satin and cotton poplin, was inspired by musician Nick Cave. ‘I was attracted to his seemingly dark character, as well as in the fading line between masculinity and femininity.’ Dream collaborator: Nick Cave.
emilia.kuurila@gmail.com
Sandals, £575, by Manolo Blahnik
It took Peru-born Balta six months to programme the manual loom on which she constructed her wonderfully textured designs, which incorporate pearls, golden yarns, technical fabrics and rope. Balta won the Vogue Talents Awards at this year’s Milano Moda Graduate. Dream collaborator: Jonathan Anderson.
US-born Schali and Croatian Kapchitz aimed to capture the decadence of 1920s opium dens and the artisanal skill of nomadic tribes in southern Ethiopia, with crushed velvet and threadbare knitwear sitting alongside animal-hide skirts and metal tailoring. Dream collaborator: Leather company Roban’s.
elijah.schali@gmail.com; noakapchitz@gmail.com
Shoes, £700, by Cherevichkiotvichki
Fascinated by the models of masculinity as pursued by young men during adolescence, the South Korean designer used bulges within fabric to subvert notions of form. ‘I wanted to make a joke out of my obsessive pursuit of masculinity,’ Jung says. Dream collaborator: Dimitris Papaioannou.
dohanjung.wixsite.com/dohanjung
China-born knitwear designer Rui Zhou ascribes to the Japanese concept of ‘Wabi- sabi’, exploring the beauty in imperfections. Her colourful, clingy, ribbed knitwear designs, sporting holes and cut-outs, come in delicately knitted and bead-embellished layers. Dream collaborator: Rei Kawakubo.
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Why are Wayne Thiebaud’s paintings at the Courtauld quite so tempting?The American artist’s thickly painted slices of cake at the Courtauld are some of our favourite artworks seen this year. What makes them so special?
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Taiwan’s new ‘museumbrary’ is a paradigm-shifting, cube-shaped cultural hubPart museum, part library, the SANAA-designed Taichung Green Museumbrary contains a world of sweeping curves and flowing possibilities, immersed in a natural setting
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Dries van Noten on why he's building a new home for craft in VeniceA year after departing the runway, Dries van Noten unveils his next chapter: the Fondazione Dries Van Noten, a newly announced cultural initiative in Venice celebrating craft in all its forms. Wallpaper meets the designer to find out why he’s not ready to retire.
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Graduate Directory 2020: FashionWe’ve combed through institutions, ateliers and workshops around the world to uncover the best in class
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FashionFashion's youngest and brightest take the sartorial reins
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FashionOur in-house experts scour the globe to present our pick of the most exciting fledgling fashion designers
