S/S 2011 Menswear Collections, Paris: grooming trends

Male model with hair slick back
Dior Homme: Smooth, slicked back hair, by hairstylist Paul Hanlon, goes a long way at Dior Homme
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Dior Homme: Designer Kris Van Assche’s futuristic vision of the Dior man called for flawless skin, courtesy of make-up artist Aaron de Mey

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Dior Homme: In contrast to the billowing silhouettes on the runway, the sophisticated, minimalist look was even more effective

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Dries Van Noten: To complement the idiosyncratic references to 1970s street culture showcased on Dries Van Noten’s runway, hairstylist Paul Hanlon looked to London ska boys and skinheads for inspiration 

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Dries Van Noten: Hair was polished yet tough, thanks to rounded fringes sweeping severely across the forehead

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Dries Van Noten: The overall look was youthful with a hint of European elegance

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Viktor & Rolf: Viktor & Rolf’s Spring 2011 collection loosely referenced Hollywood stars from the 1940s holidaying in Biarritz 

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male model wearing shirt, tie and blazer, long textured fringe and glasses

Viktor & Rolf: Heavily textured hair still managed to look polished, thanks to the stylings of hairstylist, Christoph Hasenbein

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Viktor & Rolf: Make-up artist Victor Alvarez gave models lightly bronzed skin, recalling Hollywood’s glory days

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male model wearing blue suit and slick back hair

Dunhill: Using Bumble & Bumble products, hairstylist James Rowe conjured up a smart style that’s far from rigid to represent the new relaxed Dunhill man

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Dunhill: Make-up maestro Peter Phillips gave models a natural, healthy look that’s fresh from walking in the countryside

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Dunhill: The overall look complements designer Kim Jones’ inspiration: Roger Fry and the artsy Bloomsbury set

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John Galliano: Always one to put on a show, John Galliano’s version of Charlie Chaplin could not have been more on the money

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John Galliano: The conventional film noir look is brought into the 21st century, thanks to rumpled hair, smoky eyes and gleaming skin

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John Galliano: Wet-look curls make a comeback for Spring 2011

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Male model with blue vest, wavy textured hair and dark framed glasses

Jean Paul Gaultier: Backstage, the team helmed by make-up artist Carole Colambani and hairstylist Delphine Corteille kept photographs of YSL to hand as references

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Jean Paul Gaultier: No prizes for guessing whom Gaultier reincarnated this season - Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech circa 1970

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Jean Paul Gaultier: Textured hair was key, some models wore glossy, tousled locks, while others worked a more edgy, natural look to match Gaultier’s Moroccan inspiration

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Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: To match Riccardo Tisci’s black and white exploration of lust and piety, faces were given an ethereal touch of pink on the eyes and lips

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Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: Models were a perfect picture of austerity

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Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: Hair was close-cropped or scraped back

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Hermes: The Spring 2011 Hermes man was the epitome of modern luxury

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Male model with dark hair and short beard looking to the right

Hermes: A little light grooming was all that was needed to underscore the collection’s quiet elegance 

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Hermes: Tousled, feathery manes gave models a relaxed, Mediterranean vibe

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Kris Van Assche: It was all about getting down and dirty at Kris Van Assche, whose workwear-influenced collection inspired this rebellious look

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Kris Van Assche: … while hair was tousled with pin-up worthy nonchalance

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back of male model head with short and styled hair

Kris Van Assche: … while hair was tousled with pin-up worthy nonchalance

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Male model head shot with hair voluminous and slicked back

Lanvin: Lanvin models worked edgy, windswept hair to coincide with the collection’s energetic feel

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Lanvin: Skin was kept light and ethereal to further emphasise the sense of movement 

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Lanvin: Mirroring the textural, unfinished quality of the clothing, the look was sophisticated, yet not too polished 

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Paul Smith: Paul Smith traded in his signature Sixties’ Mod for dirtier,1970s rock this season

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Paul Smith: Models were reincarnated as rock and rollers, with a modern twist

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Paul Smith: Hair was voluminous and slightly shiny for an authentic, grungy feel 

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Raf Simons: Paul Hanlon worked his hair magic once more, giving models’ mops an innocent, easy texture

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 Raf Simons: Fresh, luminous skin was the perfect foil to Simons’ predominantly white collection

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Raf Simons: No one does avant-garde like Raf Simons, his collections are never contrived 

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Rick Owens: Androgyny was the order of day at Rick Owens

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Rick Owens: Models were imbued with a post-apocalyptic austerity and serenity

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Rick Owens: Hair by Luigi, make-up by Aaron de Mey

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Louis Vuitton: At Louis Vuitton, a new take on the global traveller resulted in this glamorous, slicked back ruffled coif by hairstylist Shon

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Louis Vuitton: Make-up artist Sil Bruinsma gave models’ skin a glow with a hint of colour

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Louis Vuitton: Marc Jacobs’ personal tattoo artist, Scott Campbell, turned classic LV prints and animals from the Chinese zodiac into intricate bodyart

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headshot of male model in blue shirt and shaved hair

Walter Van Bierendonck: In contrast to his playful collection, complete with frills and ruffles, Walter Van Bierendonck’s models were kept looking as natural as possible 

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Walter Van Bierendonck: Models were the epitome of masculinity, sporting freshly shorn hair

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Walter Van Bierendonck: The designer’s fearless approach has won him numerous fans, including Rei Kawakubo

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Yves Saint Laurent: Stefano Pilati also paid tribute to the 1970s vision of Yves Saint Laurent, opting for a pared back, yet sophisticated take on the icon 

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Yves Saint Laurent: The pale complexions worked well with the relaxed, androgynous silhouettes that went down the runway

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Yves Saint Laurent: Make-up by Carole Colambani, hair by Delphine Corteille

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.