With three established fashion weeks already in Europe, it might seem superfluous to add a fourth. But, in the absence of a coordinated Belgian movement, Berlin has, as expected, stepped up to claim ownership.
Just six seasons young, and under the corporate sponsorship of Mercedes-Benz, who underwrite some 30 regular fashion platforms globally, Berlin is beginning to make sense as a potential new fashion hub, not least because of its vibrant youth culture and cutting-edge art community.
From another perspective, Berlin also works as an epicentre for the newly emerging Eastern European market to interact with the other compass points. Trade shows like Bread & Butter and Premium reinforce this proposal. A small detail to be rectified is that this season overlapped with the menswear shows in Milan and Paris.
Nevertheless, catwalk presentations by upscale labels, such as Schumacher, who opened the week, and Rena Lange, vied for local media attention with newcomers, Penkov and Sam Frenzel. The latter demonstrated a directional aesthetic that, with careful management, promises to go places.
An impressive Hollywood celeb turnout at the Hugo Boss party and photographer Nick Knight at Vogue’s Fashion Night caught the attention of the international media. Restaurant bookings at Grill Royal were the other hottest tickets in town. Meanwhile, hardcore Berliners celebrated Dirk Schonberger’s final collection for Joop! at the infamous Crackers basement. In true Berlin style, the below-the-radar party - like a metaphor for Berlin's sartorial ambitions - thumped on well into the early hours of a bright dawn.