Hit-maker Francesco Russo debuts made-to-order shoe service at Harvey Nichols
![Luxury shoe service](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/52ogvLgjWDmGekM2odQk5Z-415-80.jpg)
There is such a fine line between a successful shoe design rising to become a house signature or being washed over by fast and furious It shoe fame. Italian cobbler Francesco Russo knows both tales.
The Pulia-born creative, who established his own eponymous luxury shoe brand in 2013, honed his craft at Costume National and Miu Miu in Milan before moving to Paris to Yves Saint Laurent, where he created the infamous Tribute sandal and Cage boot during Stefano Pilati’s tenure, before joining Sergio Rossi as creative director.
For his own maison, Russo’s sensual signature pertains to the elongated heel-piece of his pumps and sandals – his way of connecting the shoe with the curve of the leg – creating a striking silhouette from behind. His other unifying characteristic is the subtle waxing he gives his leathers, which range from tiger snake to crocodile and lizard that he favours in subtle off-shades of olive, muted cobalt, rust and mustard. ‘If you see the shoes there is a little shine on them,’ he says, visiting London for the day. ‘It’s exactly like they finish on men’s shoes: I wouldn’t say vintage looking, but with nuances and this is because we do it by hand.’
All of Russo’s shoes are made in his atelier in Italy, including the bespoke commissions he takes from his Paris atelier/store on rue de Valois. Now Russo is rolling out this 6-week made-to-order service in London with Harvey Nichols. Eleven styles will be offered in either leather or croc with the option of twenty colourways: ‘I think it’s important that whenever the brand moves around the world we carry the atelier philosophy with us and this means giving the service we are able to give in Paris,’ he says.
‘It’s art with a function,’ he adds of his craft, ‘and that function is to make people dream because fashion is about doing things that are not crucial, we are not doing things that are fundamental for people. Food is, water is, shoes are not crucial so the only reason why people buy them is because they have this emotional feeling towards them.’ Offering a bespoke service where clients can touch and feel his luxurious components is quite naturally the next step to nurture this notion.
The Pulia-born creative established his own eponymous brand in 2013. Russo’s sensual signature pertains to the elongated heel-piece of his pumps and sandals
Russo honed his craft at Costume National and Miu Miu in Milan before moving to Paris to join Yves Saint Laurent (during Stefano Pilati’s tenure), and later Sergio Rossi as creative director
His shoe's other unifying characteristic is the subtle waxing he gives his leathers, which range from tiger snake to crocodile and lizard that he favours in subtle off-shades of olive, muted cobalt, rust and mustard. Pictured: S/S 2016 collection
On his craft, Russo explains: ‘It’s art with a function, and that function is to make people dream because fashion is about doing things that are not crucial, we are not doing things that are fundamental for people.' Pictured: S/S 2016 collection
Offering a bespoke service where clients can touch and feel his luxurious components is naturally the next step to nurture Russo's fashion ethos.
The Paris store, pictured, is where the idea for this global bespoke service was born
Russo adds, ‘I think it’s important that whenever the brand moves around the world we carry the atelier philosophy with us and this means giving the service we are able to give in Paris'
INFORMATION
For more informaiton, visit the Harvey Nichols website
Photography courtesy Harvey Nichols and Francesco Russo
Wallpaper* Newsletter + Free Download
For a free digital copy of August Wallpaper*, celebrating Creative America, sign up today to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories
-
Commune’s sustainable personal care products look ‘quite unlike anything else’
Commune’s Somerset-made products stand out in the sustainable skincare crowd. Madeleine Rothery speaks with the brand’s co-founders Kate Neal and Rémi Paringaux
By Madeleine Rothery Published
-
‘Hedonistic and avant-garde’: Rabanne’s Julian Dossena on the legacy of the chainmail 1969 bag
Paco Rabanne’s 1969 chainmail handbag encapsulates the late designer’s futuristic, space-age style. Current creative director Julien Dossena tells Wallpaper* about the bag’s particular pleasures
By Jack Moss Published
-
Postcard from Paris: Olympic fever takes over the streets
On the eve of the opening ceremony of Paris 2024, our correspondent shares her views from the streets of the capital about how the event is impacting the urban landscape.
By Minako Norimatsu Published
-
C.P. Company embraces football fever as it becomes Manchester City’s official fashionwear partner
Whether England win or lose at the Euro 2024 finals this weekend, C.P. Company is ready for a stylish football season ahead as the cult Italian brand teams up with Manchester City
By Tianna Williams Published
-
‘I couldn't help but feel the magic’: At Chatsworth, Erdem pays ode to Duchess Deborah Devonshire’s life and style
‘Erdem: Imaginary Conversations’ at Chatsworth sees the London-based fashion designer explore the legacy of Duchess Deborah Devonshire, who inspired his S/S 2024 collection. Wallpaper* travels to the Derbyshire home to find out more
By Zoe Whitfield Published
-
Inside John Lobb’s sumptuous new Kyoto store, housed in a traditional wooden ‘machiya’
John Lobb’s inviting new Teruhiro Yanagihara-designed Kyoto store is introduced with a series of images starring lauded Japanese director Hirokazu Kore-eda
By Jack Moss Published
-
Diptyque opens the doors to an ‘astonishing’ new London home (and you’ll want to move right in)
Diptyque has unveiled Maison Diptyque on New Bond Street, London, an immersive space that captures the storied world of the luxury perfumer
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
‘Sensuous physicality’: Issey Miyake reveals barefoot sneaker collaboration with New Balance
The Issey Miyake x New Balance MT10O is based on minimalist running sneakers from the 2010s, designed to replicate the feeling of running barefoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
These gravity-defying Santoni heels are a sculptural wonder
A closer look at Santoni’s Victoria pumps, which are defined by the architectural rigour of their gently slanted heels – an ode to the heritage footwear brand’s roots in Le Marche, Italy
By Jack Moss Published
-
New Byredo store opens in London’s Covent Garden
Byredo has unveiled a new Covent Garden store, its second bricks-and-mortar destination in London
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
How Biba’s make-up and cosmetics line started a beauty revolution
Ahead of a new Biba retrospective opening at London’s Fashion & Textile Museum, Hannah Tindle speaks to Barbara Hulanicki about its pioneering make-up and cosmetics line
By Hannah Tindle Published