Chalayan S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Men’s

Scene setting: Chalayan has hosted his intimate menswear presentations for a number of seasons in his Mayfair store. The crisp white space, with its dark wooden boat-shaped counter and sloping black steel rails, puts his precise clothes at ease. But for his 25th anniversary year, Chalayan staged S/S20 alfresco, with guests lined up in a nearby mews. The models each carried a mini ghetto blaster blaring out different songs, yet it was in the silence that one could understand Chalayan’s clarity of thought as the sun beat down on the cut of his tailoring. His process is one of layering concepts, just as his stripe trousers had shorts overlaid – and on top of shirting, sheer panels were fixed to the torso.
Mood board: Entitled ‘Post-Colonial Body,’ the collection began as a study of indigenous dance and movements that have been appropriated by the West. This translated into paper cotton outerwear that traps the air and wool tailoring embellished with ropes, evoking exercises for physical discipline and rigour. Chalayan said, ‘I looked at South America initially and how the colonial forces affected the dance culture. I also looked at rituals of Japan and how the country was influenced socially, economically and culturally by the Americans between 1945-1952.’ He wanted to visualise how the body has been re-punctuated by external, almost alien forces. Jackets and trousers had channels through which hiking sticks were slotted; the print on a silk shirt depicted folkloric Japanese rituals fused with step instructions for Tango.
Sound bite: After 25 years in the business, the opening of the Mayfair store four years ago transformed how the label worked. ‘Our shop has changed our lives – we have met our clients and understood what they need. It’s a response mechanism,’ Chalayan said. ‘I’ve met really nice people through my work that I would not have met otherwise. The best thing about my 25 years? Just to have survived is enough.’
Chalayan S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Chalayan S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Chalayan S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Chalayan S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
How to be butch: Clark Henley’s sharp, satirical and playful manual is back in print
The 1982 classic, ‘The Butch Manual: The Current Drag and How to Do It’, full of tongue-in-cheek advice, is available once again
-
Aston Martin goes goth, ramping up power, poise and dark glamour with the new Vantage S
These moody images mark the debut of the latest model out of Gaydon, the dynamically focused Aston Martin Vantage S
-
After decades capturing the world’s fashion-set, photographer Johnny Rozsa picks up a paint brush
In his first exhibition of paintings, the New York-based artist celebrates the vibrancy of Tangier while rediscovering a familiar creative outlet
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's