Dior Homme S/S 2018
Kris Van Assche’s collaboration with artist François Bard is a master stroke
Mood board: It has been ten years since Kris van Assche took the reins at Dior Homme after Hedi Slimane. In that decade Slimane went on to transform Saint Laurent into a sexy, pop-rock line and continue his photographic practice. Van Assche put his namesake label on hiatus in 2015 and dedicated himself to Dior Homme full-time. Ever since, he has taken the opportunity to explore the heritage of the house, which for S/S 2018 led him back into the atelier, situated in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Ribbons printed with its address were worn by the models and made into suiting.
Best in show: The collection explored both the construction and deconstruction of tailoring and proportion. Slim blazers were sculpted in ottoman wool in three different variations of a long summer coat, a backless or sleeveless gilet and a new bias-cut tailcoat. Sport met suit as polo-shirts were spliced with the classic skinny Dior Homme jacket or tacked into wide trousers. A tailored jacket had bomber sleeves. In a season of logo-ed sweats, hoodies were printed with the atelier logo. Isn’t that just the most ironic, Diorific thing?
Team work: Oil paintings by French artist François Bard were printed across shirts and jackets. Bard works in the classicist style and often directly onto textured canvas. He takes inspiration from the perfectly ordinary, painting street-cast people in scenes shaped by what he might have seen in newspapers, TV, films and online that same day. His brooding, photorealist paintings of hooded figures relate to Van Assche’s omnipresent search for the joy in innocence.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
A guide to Frank Gehry's architecture: mesmerising, expressive and sometimes controversial
Canadian-American Frank Gehry has earned his position in the hall of fame of contemporary architects through a wealth of groundbreaking designs; here, we explore why, how, and his key projects
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
A nature-inspired exhibition takes root at California's Salmon Creek Farm
'Jinen' presents new works by Dan John Anderson, Kazunori Hamana, Yu Kobayashi, and Ido Yoshimoto at Fritz Haeg’s cultural commune and creative hub in California’s redwood forest
By Léa Teuscher Published
-
Chanel Comète: the exclusive fragrance creates the scent of stardust on your skin
As Chanel releases Comète, the latest fragrance from Les Exclusifs de Chanel, its creator Olivier Polge speaks with Laura Bailey about his process
By Hannah Tindle Published