Mood board: Margaret Howell’s spring show also tuned into an aviation vibe, opening with a series of navy looks that had a 1970s American Airways pilot spirit. Pants came cropped and cuffed, while Irish linen shirts were worn short-sleeved and smartened up with knitted two-tone ties. Shorts were another mainstay, and were teamed back with cardigans and white vests, all of which were tucked in with military precision.
Scene setting: Howell nearly always shows her collections within her white-washed Wigmore Street store space, so the soundtrack is elemental in setting the scene. This season music collaborator Paul Thomas sampled a softer, female vocalist version of the Eagles’ Hotel California, which cemented the presentation’s relaxed, West Coast feel.
Team work: When you unpack a Howell collection you are left with a lot of her signature pieces in new hues and materials. Enter stylist Beat Bolliger who remixed a fresh retro vibe for the separates based collection. Belts are always key to the mix at a Margaret Howell show, but there was an awful lot of tucking in this season – chunky knitted vests and cardigans included. At street level, the season’s boxer shorts and ankle-cropped pants also reinforced Bolliger’s somewhat controversial white leather lace-ups and dark sock pairing.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Frieze London 2025: all the fashion moments to look out forThe best fashion happenings to add to your Frieze London 2025 schedule, from Dunhill’s curation of talks at Frieze Masters to an exhibition of furniture by Rick Owens
-
Artists reflect on Kate Bush lyrics for a War Child auctionPeter Doig and Maggi Hambling are among artists interpreting Kate Bush’s 1985 track ‘Running Up That Hill’ for War Child’s online auction
-
Explore Tom Kundig’s unusual houses, from studios on wheels to cabins slotted into bouldersThe American architect’s entire residential portfolio is the subject of a comprehensive new book, ‘Tom Kundig: Complete Houses’
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
New short film takes you behind the scenes at Margaret HowellA Working Space provides a behind-the-scenes look at 34 Wigmore Street, Margaret Howell’s London headquarters, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year
-
Annemarieke van Drimmelen’s photographs capture the spirit of Margaret HowellDutch photographer Annemarieke van Drimmelen has captured Margaret Howell’s A/W 2022 collection in an evocative series of black and white images. Here, Van Drimmelen and Howell tell Wallpaper* how the project came together
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
