A 360-degree tour of the shows, from the invitations to backstage reports, grooming trends and venue highlights
Lucas Ossendrijver had the classical mother and daughter silhouette in Jeanne Lanvin’s logo on his mind, speeding out models through two freestanding wooden doorways - one big, one small - in the spectacular Beaux-Arts salon. Ossendrijver was thinking of the way city boys travel - on bikes and metros, with rolled up sleeves and a bag slung over one shoulder - which he addressed through garments constructed with a unique sense of techno-classicism. This season shook off any digital or ethnic forays to focus on the needs of the mobile city slicker, nuanced in a palette of industrial greys, night sky blues, wine and forest green tones (bar the pop of traffic light red and ice blue). The doorway metaphor was echoed in a play with garment proportions – like the giant grosgrain belts or waistbands slung around generous trousers, or the way a hooded, silk nylon parka was cropped into a bomber. The finessed mix of soft and strict designs ensured a layered lightness to this outing. Lucas’ expert double-face construction and longline tailoring found its deconstructed match in the loose, threaded topstitching and uneven leather fringes that frayed off seams and hemlines, for a raw and primal allure.Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Paris Menswear S/S 2015 Shows
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