Lucas Ossendrijver had the classical mother and daughter silhouette in Jeanne Lanvin’s logo on his mind, speeding out models through two freestanding wooden doorways - one big, one small - in the spectacular Beaux-Arts salon. Ossendrijver was thinking of the way city boys travel - on bikes and metros, with rolled up sleeves and a bag slung over one shoulder - which he addressed through garments constructed with a unique sense of techno-classicism. This season shook off any digital or ethnic forays to focus on the needs of the mobile city slicker, nuanced in a palette of industrial greys, night sky blues, wine and forest green tones (bar the pop of traffic light red and ice blue). The doorway metaphor was echoed in a play with garment proportions – like the giant grosgrain belts or waistbands slung around generous trousers, or the way a hooded, silk nylon parka was cropped into a bomber. The finessed mix of soft and strict designs ensured a layered lightness to this outing. Lucas’ expert double-face construction and longline tailoring found its deconstructed match in the loose, threaded topstitching and uneven leather fringes that frayed off seams and hemlines, for a raw and primal allure.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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What is the future for design in Africa? Designer Hicham Lahlou shares possibilities for the continent at largeThe Moroccan designer celebrates 30 years of his practice. Here he speaks from his studio in Rabat about his own career and the creative possibilities for design in Morocco and the rest of Africa
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Philadelphia’s 'Grande Dame' reopens with a dazzling French twistThe Bellevue Hotel has been restored to its former glory through a stylish renovation by design studio Ward + Gray
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Louis Vuitton’s duo of Osaka exhibitions celebrate the house’s deep-rooted relationship with JapanUnfolding in Osaka this summer, ‘Visionary Journeys’ is a transporting trip into the house’s history, while ‘Yayoi Kusama – Infinity’ promises an immersion into the works of the Japanese artist, who is a longstanding Louis Vuitton collaborator
