Mood board: Finally, designers are reacting against the rampant puritanism of all things pop. With Art School’s walking-home-from-the-club strut, Mowalola’s naked clothes and Charles Jeffrey’s playful parades, the message is one fuelled by positivity and passion and the body. The invitation to Cottweiler’s autumn/winter 2019 show featured a gushing pyramided public urinal, placed in the great outdoors; Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty said they wanted to explore the affects that technology has had on human face-to-face interaction. It looked to traditional masculine dress codes from the sportswear worn in their native Essex and Bristol hometowns and, the notes say ‘the lost art of cruising.’
Best in show: All of these collections say something about the politics of sex in an age where relationships are made and broken with the swipe of a screen. Here they translated into a range of smart tracksuits, techy outerwear and waterproof protection. A reminder of the corporeal world. Nods to nefarious outdoor pursuits were there in the Reebok socks with reflective strips at the back. Zips darted diagonally across the pelvis. Standout were the hand-dyed merino shearling track pants and roomy parka. The textures were all from a sci-fi, digital utopia yet brutally rendered in sensual, Arcadian hues.
Team work: New for the season was a capsule collection of 10 raincoats made with the Italian outerwear specialist Allegri. Each had a base layer similar to a wet suit with an outer shell in sports nylon. The pieces were inspired by the 1988 film Le Grand Bleu directed by Luc Besson with a focus on activities related to the deep sea, from diving to underwater sports like spear-fishing, and will be shown as part of Pitti Uomo 95.
Cottweiler A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Cottweiler A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Cottweiler A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Cottweiler A/W 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Brunello Cucinelli’s festive takeover of Harrods turns the department store into a cashmere wonderlandUnveiled this morning, the Umbrian fashion house has taken over the store’s iconic Brompton Road windows, celebrating the spirit of its home town of Solomeo in fantastical fashion
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Each mundane object tells a story at Pace’s tribute to the everydayIn a group exhibition, ‘Monument to the Unimportant’, artists give the seemingly insignificant – from discarded clothes to weeds in cracks – a longer look
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Discover The Legacy, Hong Kong’s eye-catching new condoThe Legacy, by ACPV Architects Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, is a striking new condo tower that aims to ‘create a sense of community and solidarity among people’
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
