Cottweiler A/W 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s
Mood board: Finally, designers are reacting against the rampant puritanism of all things pop. With Art School’s walking-home-from-the-club strut, Mowalola’s naked clothes and Charles Jeffrey’s playful parades, the message is one fuelled by positivity and passion and the body. The invitation to Cottweiler’s autumn/winter 2019 show featured a gushing pyramided public urinal, placed in the great outdoors; Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty said they wanted to explore the affects that technology has had on human face-to-face interaction. It looked to traditional masculine dress codes from the sportswear worn in their native Essex and Bristol hometowns and, the notes say ‘the lost art of cruising.’
Best in show: All of these collections say something about the politics of sex in an age where relationships are made and broken with the swipe of a screen. Here they translated into a range of smart tracksuits, techy outerwear and waterproof protection. A reminder of the corporeal world. Nods to nefarious outdoor pursuits were there in the Reebok socks with reflective strips at the back. Zips darted diagonally across the pelvis. Standout were the hand-dyed merino shearling track pants and roomy parka. The textures were all from a sci-fi, digital utopia yet brutally rendered in sensual, Arcadian hues.
Team work: New for the season was a capsule collection of 10 raincoats made with the Italian outerwear specialist Allegri. Each had a base layer similar to a wet suit with an outer shell in sports nylon. The pieces were inspired by the 1988 film Le Grand Bleu directed by Luc Besson with a focus on activities related to the deep sea, from diving to underwater sports like spear-fishing, and will be shown as part of Pitti Uomo 95.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Remembering Richard Serra (1938-2024), American art’s man of steel
American artist Richard Serra, whose vast sculptures transformed landscapes around the world, has died aged 85
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Architectural gardens around the world to soothe the soul
From small domestic gardens, to nature reserves, urban interventions and local parks, here are some of the finest green projects that place nature at their heart
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Corfu hotel Domes Miramare redefines beachfront bliss
Make like Jackie O at Corfu hotel Domes Miramare, a property with contemporary luxury and echoes of 1960s glamour in spades
By Bridget Downing Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Burberry A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated