Mood board: Shrouded beneath a hood-like chapeau in black felt, Rei Kawakubo’s Homme Plus character arrived in a series of extraordinary blazers – asymmetrically buttoned across the chest and cut in strips of cool wool that spiralled on the bias around torso and sleeve. Later, ultra-slim suiting clung like tiny cardigans puckering at the chest, and a zebra-printed pony skin lightened the chilling message made by a menacing face mask and harness sleeves.
Team work: When Kawakubo switched off her spiral tailoring, two collaborative efforts surfaced towards the show’s end – the first a scribbled calligraphy print by tattoo artist Joseph Ari Aloi AKA JK5, and finally a somber series of charcoal drawings by the American artist Roger Ballen fading across white leather coats.
Finishing touches: Poking out from beneath pleather shorts and cropped trousers, JK5’s tattoo graphic was printed down sheer leggings; a welcome colour riot applied direct on skin.
