At Kenzo, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have tapped the abundant wellspring of Americana across recent collections, name-checking the Northwest this season in a romance of industry that referenced steelworkers garb in a sea of tobacco-coloured uniforms, often topped with flat, detachable knit collars. The runway snaked around a set of sliced-up, pre-fab houses roofed in corrugated iron, their textures and choppy shapes echoed in slashed or coated knits in a passage of safety yellow looks. Chunky Buffalo-style boots came belted or embellished with cogs and spanners, which were echoed in jazzy, geometric shirting of lilac and chartreuse. A trip of colour-blocked Aran knitwear broke the often murky palette, as did a passage of intarsia knits and appliqué leather - decorated with a nostalgic pattern of winding mountain roads.
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
