New York Fashion Week Women’s A/W 2019 Editor’s Picks

Tibi: Already a master of minimalism, Tibi’s Amy Smilovic chose to bring a feeling of heritage to the fore of her latest collection through the use of checked prints, broad-shouldered silhouettes and cinched in waists, which she then subverted with flashes of bright colour. Tibi’s respect for function and practicality expressed itself through the addition of utilitarian details, such as metal rings attached behind collars of coats, and adjustable straps that allow garments to be worn in different ways. Sophisticated yet modern, Tibi continues to prove that minimalism is far from boring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Zimmermann: Inspired by the story of Nancy Wake, a World War II spy known as The White Mouse who grew up in Australia, Zimmerman’s Nicky Zimmermann created a seductive collection filled with femme fatale touches. Leather trenchcoats and suiting with utility pockets were juxtaposed with heady floral prints, oversized bows and exaggerated lantern sleeves for a romantic yet self-assured result. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

3.1 Phillip Lim: ’Make less, mean more’ was a mantra Phillip Lim took to heart this season. The designer infused an undercurrent of utility to his collection this season, with elevated takes on city mainstays, like puffer jackets, androgynous suits and billowing dresses - all realised in new proportions. This season’s offering was accompanied by the label’s commitment to go exotic skin and fur-free. Going forward, its use of leather and shearling will only be procured from sources producing it as a by-product of the meat trade. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Zero + Maria Cornejo:  Sustainability has long been at the forefront of Maria Cornejo’s mind. For her latest collection, which was inspired by the dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch, Cornejo combined an effortlessness of wear with a luxurious eco-consciousness. Cashmere jumpers and cardigans had been intricately woven from recycled yarns, while classic pebbled silk and woven brocade pieces boasted an exquisite quality with a low carbon footprint -the label’s collections are all proudly made in New York City. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Li-Ning: Founded by the former gymnast and Olympian Li Ning in 1990, the eponymous Chinese sportswear label first rose to fame with its technical expertise and understanding of athletic needs. Despite expanding well beyond the categories of footwear and sports apparel, the label’s recent collections are still rooted in national pride and China’s legacy for sporting excellence. For Autumn/Winter 2019, loose tracksuits and logo t-shirts were mixed with oversized parkas, structured windbreakers and boxy suits for a cool, street-savvy credibility. 

Rosetta Getty: Rosetta Getty has always incorporated an art-centric slant to her presentations and this season, which celebrates the label’s fifth anniversary, was no different. Getty collaborated with artist Kayode Ojo to create an installation of empty champagne bottles, deflated balloons and broken chandeliers - a picture of the morning after - that models meandered through wearing Getty’s new designs. Displaying all the intuitive features that the label is known for - clever wraparounds, versatile zips that altered garments and generally effortless silhouettes - the collection was certainly cause for celebration. 

Devaux: Famed street style photographer Tommy Ton knows a thing or two about what makes a great fashion look. His lens has captured the greatest cuts, silhouettes and patterns for over a decade. Ton was appointed creative director of the New York-based label in February 2018, founded originally as a menswear line by Matthew Breen and Andrea Tsao. For its first fully fledged runway show, one accompanied by the sounds of live piano, tailoring and workwear took centre stage. An eclectic range of men and women strode Delvaux’s catwalk in relaxed suits, oblique cut coats, loose overalls and corduroy two pieces. The mood was androgynous and elegant, everyday yet luxurious. A sure fire hit on the street.

Noon by Noor: It may have been snowing in New York, but Noon by Noor designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa looked to their home country of Bahrain for their autumn inspiration. The shape and colour of sand dunes where a prominent focus, and easy yet elegant pieces, like dressing gown coats, gauzy dresses, draped shirts and column dresses were imagined in hues of pebble, camel, saffron and sunset read. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Khaite: For its debut runway presentation, the New York label Khaite chose to celebrate the ingenuity and strength of American women. Voluminous bell-shaped sleeves, architectural constructions and a daring feminine flair made for a memorable collection. Add to that the introduction of the label’s first accessories line, which ranged from roomy leather totes and streamlined clutches, Khaite proved an early highlight of the season.

CDLM/Creatures of the Wind: Halting the momentum of a budding business is never an easy choice, which makes the relationship between CLDM and Creatures of the Wind so poignant. CLDM is the separate enterprise from Chris Peters (one half of Creatures) that sees him focus on upcycling leathers and furs and reworking vintage garments. Presented alongside new Creatures of the Wind pieces designed by Peters and the label’s other half Shane Gabier this season, the result was a collection that substituted its former feminine traits for a striking gender neutrality in all the pieces. Austere for the most part, yet infused with bold moments like trailing fringe and splattered tie dye prints, the result was more of a political statement than we might be used to.