Bode: The refreshing perspective that designer Emily Adams Bode brings to her eponymous menswear label couldn’t be more on point. Fusing workwear silhouettes with female oriented crafts such as quilting, mending and applique, Bode’s latest collection was a colourful pastiche of corduroy, Fair Isle knits and denim, brimming over with nostalgic, ephemeral touches; for example, a raincoat came paired with a collection of paper milk bottle caps. Be it working with denim fabric from the last remaining American mills or repurposed vintage and antique textiles, Bode’s handcrafted aesthetic elegantly manages to look back while moving forward. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Maryam Nassir Zadeh: A bohemian living space located up a flight of creaky stairs in the East Village was the perfect partner to Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s latest collection. The downtown darling artistically clashed kaleidoscope colours and paint-splatter prints with zebra and plaid printed boots, figure skimming knits and leggings for a retro, yet rebellious aesthetic. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Nanushka: A sense of freedom rippled through Nanushka’s latest collection, which for autumn, included its first menswear offering. Inspired by 70s interior and furniture design, the label’s effortless nonchalance was undercut by a modern day athleticism. Paired with a palette of violet, apricot and earth tones, along with wood-grain inspired prints, the collection was an equal balance of masculinity and femininity, that embraced a playful attitude and easy wearability. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Self Portrait: The evolution of Self Portrait continues at full stride this season with the youthful label embracing a chic, cosmopolitan attitude that reflects its popularity around the globe. Tailoring was a main focus, but not at the sacrifice of versatility. Polished in silhouette yet fused with zip-up details, fluid fabrics and unexpected features such as dresses that break into pleats, this effortless way of dressing still makes a memorable statement. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Red Valentino: Despite being Valentino’s younger sibling, Red Valentino is proof that diffusion doesn’t have to mean watered down. The label’s Autumn/Winter collection’s ethereal spin on chinoserie included detailed embroidered motifs on tulle, tapestry-like prints on silk and structured floral patterns that gave easy, wearable silhouettes an elevated elegance. Photographed on members of Rome’s Accademia Nazionale di Dansa, the collection’s lightness couldn’t ring more true.
Telfar: For all the hype surrounding the gender neutral label, Telfar, even the most hardened sceptics would have been moved by the display designer Telfar Clemens presented this season. Riffing on the idea of ’country’ and the different levels of what that means, Clemens put forth a collection of jackets and blazers with detachable sleeves, high waisted trousers and customisable, modular denim, all set to a gospel-style live performance. Coupled with Western motifs, graphic stripes and an earth-toned palette, the unisex collection boasted a relevance well beyond it’s years. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Tibi: Already a master of minimalism, Tibi’s Amy Smilovic chose to bring a feeling of heritage to the fore of her latest collection through the use of checked prints, broad-shouldered silhouettes and cinched in waists, which she then subverted with flashes of bright colour. Tibi’s respect for function and practicality expressed itself through the addition of utilitarian details, such as metal rings attached behind collars of coats, and adjustable straps that allow garments to be worn in different ways. Sophisticated yet modern, Tibi continues to prove that minimalism is far from boring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Zimmermann: Inspired by the story of Nancy Wake, a World War II spy known as The White Mouse who grew up in Australia, Zimmerman’s Nicky Zimmermann created a seductive collection filled with femme fatale touches. Leather trenchcoats and suiting with utility pockets were juxtaposed with heady floral prints, oversized bows and exaggerated lantern sleeves for a romantic yet self-assured result. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
3.1 Phillip Lim: ’Make less, mean more’ was a mantra Phillip Lim took to heart this season. The designer infused an undercurrent of utility to his collection this season, with elevated takes on city mainstays, like puffer jackets, androgynous suits and billowing dresses - all realised in new proportions. This season’s offering was accompanied by the label’s commitment to go exotic skin and fur-free. Going forward, its use of leather and shearling will only be procured from sources producing it as a by-product of the meat trade. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Zero + Maria Cornejo: Sustainability has long been at the forefront of Maria Cornejo’s mind. For her latest collection, which was inspired by the dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch, Cornejo combined an effortlessness of wear with a luxurious eco-consciousness. Cashmere jumpers and cardigans had been intricately woven from recycled yarns, while classic pebbled silk and woven brocade pieces boasted an exquisite quality with a low carbon footprint -the label’s collections are all proudly made in New York City. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Li-Ning: Founded by the former gymnast and Olympian Li Ning in 1990, the eponymous Chinese sportswear label first rose to fame with its technical expertise and understanding of athletic needs. Despite expanding well beyond the categories of footwear and sports apparel, the label’s recent collections are still rooted in national pride and China’s legacy for sporting excellence. For Autumn/Winter 2019, loose tracksuits and logo t-shirts were mixed with oversized parkas, structured windbreakers and boxy suits for a cool, street-savvy credibility.
Rosetta Getty: Rosetta Getty has always incorporated an art-centric slant to her presentations and this season, which celebrates the label’s fifth anniversary, was no different. Getty collaborated with artist Kayode Ojo to create an installation of empty champagne bottles, deflated balloons and broken chandeliers - a picture of the morning after - that models meandered through wearing Getty’s new designs. Displaying all the intuitive features that the label is known for - clever wraparounds, versatile zips that altered garments and generally effortless silhouettes - the collection was certainly cause for celebration.
Devaux: Famed street style photographer Tommy Ton knows a thing or two about what makes a great fashion look. His lens has captured the greatest cuts, silhouettes and patterns for over a decade. Ton was appointed creative director of the New York-based label in February 2018, founded originally as a menswear line by Matthew Breen and Andrea Tsao. For its first fully fledged runway show, one accompanied by the sounds of live piano, tailoring and workwear took centre stage. An eclectic range of men and women strode Delvaux’s catwalk in relaxed suits, oblique cut coats, loose overalls and corduroy two pieces. The mood was androgynous and elegant, everyday yet luxurious. A sure fire hit on the street.
Noon by Noor: It may have been snowing in New York, but Noon by Noor designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa looked to their home country of Bahrain for their autumn inspiration. The shape and colour of sand dunes where a prominent focus, and easy yet elegant pieces, like dressing gown coats, gauzy dresses, draped shirts and column dresses were imagined in hues of pebble, camel, saffron and sunset read. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Khaite: For its debut runway presentation, the New York label Khaite chose to celebrate the ingenuity and strength of American women. Voluminous bell-shaped sleeves, architectural constructions and a daring feminine flair made for a memorable collection. Add to that the introduction of the label’s first accessories line, which ranged from roomy leather totes and streamlined clutches, Khaite proved an early highlight of the season.
CDLM/Creatures of the Wind: Halting the momentum of a budding business is never an easy choice, which makes the relationship between CLDM and Creatures of the Wind so poignant. CLDM is the separate enterprise from Chris Peters (one half of Creatures) that sees him focus on upcycling leathers and furs and reworking vintage garments. Presented alongside new Creatures of the Wind pieces designed by Peters and the label’s other half Shane Gabier this season, the result was a collection that substituted its former feminine traits for a striking gender neutrality in all the pieces. Austere for the most part, yet infused with bold moments like trailing fringe and splattered tie dye prints, the result was more of a political statement than we might be used to.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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