Bold beginnings: New York brand Trademark puts its stamp on the contemporary fashion market
It’s not often that the concept for a fashion label begins with the branding itself. ’We actually did all the branding before we even started working on the product,’ says Louisa Burch, who launched American label Trademark together with her sister Pookie four seasons ago in New York. ’That exercise really gave us the understanding of bringing all of those details into the product.’
The pair may be only 26, and 30-years-old respectively, but they grew up with deep ties to the fashion industry - their father being entrepreneur Chris Burch and stepmother designer Tory Burch. ’It was obviously very inspirational and a great learning experience,’ Pookie says of their youth, which offered a backseat view of the rapid vertical expansion of their stepmother’s fashion empire.
It may therefore come as less of a surprise that after only one season the duo opened their first store in New York’s SoHo, working with Stockholm-based architecture firm Bozarthfornell. The multi-floor, 2,500 square foot Grand Street boutique, is rooted in the same nostalgic minimalism that Trademark have quickly become known for in their women’s, men’s and accessories collections. ’For us the retail store really felt like the right way to get the whole concept to come together,’ adds Pookie, who oversees the brand’s creative direction. Their sights are now set on a second property in California - Los Angeles or San Francisco - depending on the site. ’Online, San Fran is our second biggest market after New York,’ explains Louisa, who looks after the business’ logistics and sales.
As for their branding? They worked with Paris-based, creative and art direction agency Consorti and Ohlman (whose clients include CR Fashion Book, APC and Steidl) on their ’cubic’ logo and now collaborate with Giovanni Bianco’s New York-based GB65 firm on their campaigns. ’I think the biggest thing honestly was that we wanted it to feel - from the bag to the label to every piece of clothing - like something that didn’t exist,’ sums up Pookie.