As the mercury rises this month, we’re expecting to see unprecedented temperatures at Paris Fashion Week Men’s, and, accordingly, brands including Dior and Rick Owens have moved their showtimes to earlier in the day for much needed respite from the afternoon heat. In addition to the prospect of early-morning outdoor events, or hopping from one air-conditioned show space to another, there are many fashion moments to look forward to: Saint Laurent will make its return to the the start of the schedule, showing on on day one, and there are menswear debuts to come from Meryll Rogge, Michael Rider at Celine, and Sarah Burton at Givenchy. In anticipation of Grace Wales Bonner’s Hermès debut next January, the brand has opted for a presentation this week, rather than the usual show, and Paris Fashion Week Men’s regulars from Lemaire to Comme des Garçons are also on the schedule.
Here, follow our real-time look at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2027 – from behind-the-scenes glimpses to access to the shows, presentations and parties, alongside runway reviews – as seen through the eyes (and iPhones) of the Wallpaper* editors. Stay tuned.
Jack Moss is Wallpaper’s Fashion & Beauty Features Director, reporting for the magazine’s digital and print editions – from international runway shows to profiling the style world’s leading figures.
Jason Hughes is Wallpaper’s Fashion & Creative Director, overseeing all style content – from fashion and beauty to watches and jewellery – as well as leading the visual direction of the magazine.
India is a writer and editor based in London, specialising in fashion, beauty, arts, interiors and culture. She is a regular Wallpaper* contributor.
Saint Laurent’s S/S 2027 show is staged amid Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156
The opening act of Paris Fashion Week Men’s is Saint Laurent, staged in the Tadao Ando-designed rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection art gallery (the gallery has been a venue for the house’s runway shows for a number of seasons). For S/S 2027, it is backdropped by Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156, an installation which turns the space into a ‘landscape of fog’. ‘Nakaya does not depict fog; she sculpts it,’ writes Anne‑Marie Duguet of the Japanese artist in the exhibition catalogue, with the work on display to the public until 14 September 2026. JM
Saint Laurent opens Paris Fashion Week Men's with effortless seduction
Opening Paris Fashion Week this evening, Saint Laurent’s S/S 2027 menswear show was staged amid Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156, currently on display in the Tadao Ando-designed rotunda of Bourse de Commerce – Pinault collection.
The collection itself had a mood of sensual ease: featherweight knits traced the line of the body, while arms were exposed in shrunken waistcoats and classic men’s underwear reimagined in leather. Typically broad shouldered tailoring – a signature of creative director Anthony Vaccarello – came with jewellery-like buttons, and the windbreaker returned, here in colourful technical taffeta. Closing the show was a series of looks in molten gold fabric.
Vaccarello said he was thinking about the idea of restraint as seduction, turning away from the constant need for drama and noise. ‘Nobody is trying to seduce you,’ he said via the collection notes. ‘What makes them seductive is that they do not need to. JM
Louis Vuitton brings the beach to Paris
Continuing the run of bold sets which have come to define Pharrell Williams’ menswear shows for Louis Vuitton, tonight’s staging saw the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris transformed into an inner-city beach, complete with sand and a larger-than-life tidal wave cascading with water. Models emerged from a tubular structure at the centre of the swell, and walked down a wooden, boardwalk-style runway. IBJ
The Dior show invite is a disco ball
Under Jonathan Anderson’s tenure, Dior’s show invites have become collectible objects – from plates of porcelain eggs to miniature versions of the green metal chairs found in Paris’ Tuileries gardens. For his third menswear show, taking place this morning in Paris, the invitation is a black disco ball, delivered to attendees in a grey and white Dior box. JM
The Dior breakfast? Perfectly packaged strawberries
Shifted from its usual afternoon slot to 9am this morning to protect guests from the heat, Jonathan Anderson’s latest show is taking place in the grounds of Musée Nissim de Camondo on Rue Monceau. Guests were welcomed into the museum’s gardens where personalised fans sat on each seat and strawberries were served in individual Dior boxes. JM
The story behind the Louis Vuitton set
Louis Vuitton men’s creative director and polymath Pharrell Williams presented the brand’s S/S 2027 collection last night, against scenography also designed by himself. The enormous construction – which stood at eight-metres high and over 37-metres wide – was conceived to look like a tidal wave, and featured real water provided by the Eau de Paris corporation, which manages the city’s aquatic network. IBJ
Continue reading here: Surf’s up! The story behind Pharrell Williams’ tidal wave set for Louis Vuitton
'Sampled and remixed' classics at Dior
This morning in the grounds of Paris’ Musée Nissim de Camondo, Jonathan Anderson showed his latest menswear collection for Dior – a wardrobe of ‘sampled and remixed’ classics, ‘skewing conventions, juxtaposing ideas from different eras and replicating what already exists in unexpected ways,’ as the Northern Irish designer described.
The inspiration came from British musician, DJ and producer Fred again.., who provided the show’s custom soundtrack, featuring songs from KTNA, Mabe Fratti and Jamie T, alongside original vocals by Christine and the Queens.
Cue loosened up tuxedos (one transformed into a hybrid blouson, others came in ultralight fabrications printed to give the appearance of tailoring wool), shredded denim, shrunken ceremonial jackets and metallic ‘jeans’ and shorts, while accessories included colourful zig-zag totes, bow ties, and ‘disco ball’ boots. JM
Meryll Rogge debuts menswear
It’s a year of big debuts for Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, who unveiled her first collection at the helm of Marni in March, and today shows menswear under her own label for the first time. Taking a typically pragmatic approach, the S/S 2027 presentation, held at the ambassador for Belgium's Paris residence, celebrated ‘the wearer’s fundamental role in revealing the brand’s aesthetic, rooted in the everyday realities of fashion.’ So – how does a Meryll Rogge man style himself? Folded, piled, layered and assembled: bomber jackets, floral prints with contrasting collars, knit pieces paired with striped poplin bloomers. An eclectic embrace of masculine and feminine styles. IBJ
Acne Studios is here to dress the Personality Hire
Jonny Johansson was thinking about office hierarchies this season – not necessarily the explicitly understood pecking order, from C-Suite to intern, but the unspoken. ‘I have been studying people as far back as I can remember,’ the Acne Studios founder and creative director said, continuing: ‘Lately, I have been fascinated by individual expression at the office, which can function as a kind of everyday social experiment.’ Who commands the space versus who is in charge comes down to more than just title.
For today’s presentation, Acne Studios played upon the idea of disparate people with their own set of references and backgrounds coming together in one space, in ‘a scenario in which their personal uniforms coalesce like a master remix.’ At the more casual end there was denim (of course), paired with graphic T-shirts – some featuring trompe l’oeil ties – and sweaters which at first glance appear cable knit, but were actually ruched and crimped. There was a vintage-tinge in places, ice-cream shades, sporty blousons and Cuban heels. ‘The attire flourishes that would ordinarily denote age or status no longer apply in this office mash-up,’ the notes said. ‘From this constructed vision emerges a composite look in many forms – each one transcending the office walls and reclaimed as an attitude above all.’ IBJ
Solid Homme explores ‘the tension between the natural and the artificial’
Solid Homme took guests to the lab for their S/S 2027 presentation, in which models walked through a space filled with hydroponic chambers – terrariums where plants are grown in mineral-rich solutions rather than soil – a comment on humanity’s ‘hubristic ambition not simply to understand nature, but to reconstruct it.’
The collection itself was outdoorsy, but without being bucolic. Technical fabrics in hues of violet and canary yellow, perforated surfaces, and shapes inspired by field equipment (note: windbreakers and boonie hats). IBJ
The story behind the Dior soundtrack
Despite having produced songs for some of music’s biggest names – among them Charli XCX, Skepta and Ed Sheeran – the British musician Fred Again (stylised Fred again..) did not rise to prominence until the release of Actual Life, a three-volume series of mixtapes that served as an aural diary of the years 2020-2022.
This morning in Paris, Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson recruited Fred Again to soundtrack his S/S 2027 menswear show for Dior, his third men’s outing for the house so far (Anderson became creative director in 2025). JM
Continue reading here: Dior’s Jonathan Anderson on why he chose a historic Parisian museum for his Fred Again-soundtracked menswear show
Rick Owens gets wet
Moved from its usual early afternoon slot to 10am, Rick Owens’ latest menswear show unfolded on the already sweltering forecourt of Paris’ Palais de Tokyo – the designer’s longtime venue of choice in the city. This morning, an enormous ramp had been erected across the forecourt’s front pool, from which fountains looped dramatically over the runway (and provided guests and models alike with a welcome spray of mist).
This season, the American designer said he was thinking about the idea of training: ‘We are all processing menace, some of us arm, some of us train,’ he wrote in his usual letter to attendees prior to the show. Central to this was a new collaboration with Adidas, seeing the sportswear behemoth’s Climacool sweatsuit reimagined in Owens’ singular style. This included a series of ‘inflatable’ looks, their billowing forms achieved by fans installed inside – ‘when worn with an ice vest, they create a personal air conditioning system,’ he elucidated. In close to 40 degree heat, they sounded tempting. JM
Sarah Burton’s debut menswear presentation for Givenchy
At home in Givenchy’s Paris headquarters on Avenue George V, Sarah Burton held her first menswear presentation as creative director of the house, which she joined in September 2024. The presentation comes off the back of a surprise campaign for the collection, which was photographed by Juergen Teller and released this week – starring talent including Don McCullin, Don Letts, and Danny Fox.
The collection was presented in dialogue with a triptych of works of British artist Rachel Whiteread, and elements of her treatment of surface and colour were interpreted through the garments, particularly in the butter-soft leather pieces, rugby shirts and wide-leg trousers, in solid blocks of pink or forest green with the gentlest of folds. Classic Burton-isms could be read through precisely tailored jackets with slightly nipped-waists and sharp shoulders, as well as in the painterly florals which appeared as both print and embroidered elements. ‘I wanted this to feel very personal and intimate, and to reflect the conversations that I have with the friends of the house,’ Burton said. IBJ
A closer look at Dior’s latest menswear collection
Details from Dior’s proposition for going out out dressing at the Musée Nissim de Camondo, show venue turned showroom: satin bow-ties, multi-colour zig-zags and oversize knits shot through with sparkles. IBJ
IM Men looks to bamboo for inspiration
Earlier this morning, IM Men – part of the Issey Miyake umbrella of brands – presented a S/S 2027 collection which looked to bamboo for inspiration. The initial inspiration came from a visit to Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs which drew them towards the institution’s collection of East Asian art – ‘misty bamboo forest landscapes in ink wash paintings and the intricate layering of branches and leaves created by the paper stencils used in katazome kimono dyeing,’ as the notes described. In the collection, this led to criss-crossing bamboo-style hats and chest pieces, while other pieces took the reference more lightly: like a series of dyed wash denim, designed to evoke the the traditional ink wash paintings, or a series of motifs by designer Rikako Nagashima, derived from images of the shadows cast by bamboo. JM
Julian Klausner continues to delight at Dries Van Noten
Despite the soaring temperatures inside the Paris Tennis Club – its greenhouse-like construction required ice lollies, water, hundreds of fans and two paramedics on standby to keep guests cool – Julian Klausner continued a thrilling run of collections at Dries Van Noten, with an ethereal S/S 2027 menswear offering that paid homage to the eponmyous house founder’s grasp of colour, print and embellishment (Klausner took over from Van Noten in 2025).
The idea of lightness was at the heart of this latest outing, with Klausner marrying diaphanous layers – sheer organza jackets, silk cargo pants, tabard tops left open to reveal the back, and the like – with sunset and sorbet hues (some matching the strawberry, violet and lemon lollies on offer prior to the show), and plenty of embellishment (clear paillettes, floral embroidery and feather headpieces added richness without weight). Footwear was also a highlight – the leopard-print lace-ups and beaded sandals elicited coos of approval from the longtime Dries fan who sat to my left. JM
Behind the scenes at Dries Van Noten
Wallpaper* went backstage to speak with Julian Klausner following the Dries Van Noten S/S 2027 show – watch here.
Junya Watanabe puts his riff on streetwear
This morning at Le Trianon in Montmartre, Junya Watanabe opened proceedings with a collection which put his distinctive riff on streetwear, collaborating with a slew of other brands – among them Kappa, Needles and New Balance. The sweatsuit was a recurring motif, with versions spanning classic Watanabe black and more vivid hues of yellow, green and burgundy, while signature elements of deconstruction – from shredded tweed jackets to back-front-jeans – were layered throughout. Bold, jewellery-like embellishment completed the look, from a multitude of chains to crystal brooches studding American sporting caps. JM
Studio Nicholson hosts its first-ever runway show
This afternoon, in the historic Hôtel d'Évreux on Paris’ Place Vendôme, Studio Nicholson founder Nick Wakeman hosted the first-ever runway show for her London-based label in its 16-year history. ‘I want the crowd to appreciate our journey and the brand’s provenance,’ Wakeman said of the choice. ‘I want people to see the clothes move; I like the idea that it’s live and not just another static image.’ Choosing an intimate, salon-style presentation, the collection was an evolution of the look Nicholson has honed since the brand’s founding: a minimalist, ‘no tricks’ approach where fabric quality is foremost and ‘clothes are believable and fit for purpose, but not boring,’ as she described. Comprising both men’s and womenswear, the result was a comprehensive wardrobe of Studio Nicholson classics – including the Sorte trouser, which has been in production for the last 16 years – alongside some new additions, like a fisherman’s-style jacket and boxy, safari shirt. JM
Hermès evokes the spirit of the Gaucho
Hermès’ design team looked to the folk figure of the Gaucho – the itinerant, wild horseman of the South American frontier – for today’s presentation (not the usual runway show, while the brand is between creative directors, with Grace Wales Bonner making her debut at the helm in January 2027). Gently tapering slacks were worn slightly high-waisted, bombacha style, and the classic Hermès silk scarf was styled with a nod to a rustic neckerchief. The palette was redolent of sedate, dusty plains – earthy browns and muted teal, with an occasional flash of lavender – but tempered with more playful prints of cacti and jumping fences. IBJ
Backstage with Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria tells Wallpaper* the story behind his S/S 2027 collection
‘This season there was a lot of conversation about how we find joy and levity in this time of chaos,’ says American designer Willy Chavarria of his S/S 2027 collection, shown yesterday in the dome of Paris’ Espace Niemeyer on a cast which included Bella Freud and Romeo Beckham.
In the latest of Wallpaper’s Ground Report series, we caught up with Chavarria at his studio before the show to discover the story behind the collection, which was titled Comunión. ‘There are two strong feelings in this collection,’ he says. ‘One is joy and colour, the other is shock and awe.’ JM
One hundred years of Lanvin menswear
It’s the centennial year of Lanvin’s menswear line, and the surrealist milieu of Lanvin’s eponymous founder was on creative director Peter Copping’s mind this season. The couturier's relationship to the artistic movement – which celebrated its own centennial in 2024 – was more subtle than her contemporary Elsa Schiparelli, but, according to the show notes for S/S 2027, she dressed members of the loose group of artists and poets including Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. This connection was communicated through discreet subversions of menswear classics: tailored trousers which pool around the ankle, a silk pyjama set modified for daytime, tasseled dress scarves styled with safari jackets. IBJ
Soshiotsuki debuts at Paris Fashion Week Men’s
‘A usually strict father allowing himself to loosen up, just slightly, while on holiday,’ was the central image of 2025 LVMH Prize winner Soshiotsuki’s debut Paris Fashion Week show – the atmosphere of a fantasy resort encouraging the patriarch to let go a little, to resist the impulse for perfection. This was told through a collection made from mostly original fabrics, manufactured in Japan, and constructed to give ‘the impression that gravity has naturally caused the garments to collapse’. IBJ
Backstage at Studio Nicholson
Yesterday afternoon, in the historic Hôtel d’Évreux on Paris’ Place Vendôme, Studio Nicholson founder Nick Wakeman hosted the first-ever runway show for her London-based label in its 16-year history.
Speaking to Wallpaper* for our Ground Report series, Wakeman said the collection was something of a ‘greatest hits… these are my codes, my design language’. Across both men’s and womenswear, it meant a comprehensive wardrobe of Studio Nicholson classics – including the Sorte trouser, which has been in production for the last 16 years – alongside some new additions, like a fisherman’s-style jacket and boxy safari shirt. JM
Wooyoungmi’s S/S 2027 collection was about dressing with joy
Opening the final Sunday of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, Madame Woo looked towards the Korean concept of ‘heung’ for her latest Wooyoungmi show – an expression which captures a mood of ‘joy, spontaneity and rhythm,’ as the Seoul-based designer described via the collection notes.
Cue a collection designed to lift the spirits: colourful hoodies were faded as if the wearer had been lying out all day in the sun, clashing patterns were mixed in a single look, and leather charms hung off belts, their shapes evoking gwaebul norigae pendants, historically worn with the hanbok as protective talismans. JM
At Celine, Michael Rider is creating the clothes he loves
Taking place at the Tennis Club de Paris this afternoon, Michael Rider hosted his first dedicated menswear show for Celine – a continuation of the American designer’s distinctive aesthetic at the house so far, one which melds Ivy League prep (Rider was at Polo Ralph Lauren before Celine; he is also an alumnus of Brown University) with a Parisian insouciance rooted in the house’s codes. Rather than a specific theme, Rider instead said he was simply developing the Celine man’s wardrobe: ‘[It’s about] enjoying what we do in the studio, and desiring it ourselves, all of it, the clothes and the characters.’ Cue a collection of eclecticism and ease: ballooning trousers, metallic leather jeans, colourful cummerbunds, and a multitude of low-pro shoes, sandals and sneakers featured as part of the highly desirable line-up. ‘[It’s about] building toward something bigger,’ he said. ‘Something with legs, and roots.’ JM
Sacai closes out the week
And with Sacai, Paris Fashion Week Men’s comes to a close. ‘The new classics’ offered just what it promised, colliding ‘the rigid, historically conservative codes of traditional tailoring with the vibrant, non-conservative energies of contemporary culture’. Voluminous panel pocketed suit trousers were juxtaposed with tie-dye rugby shirts, and a roomy tailored jacket was hybridised into a duffel with the addition of toggle-and-rope fastenings. Shown concurrently with womenswear, the collection also debuted the brand’s first collaboration with Birkenstock, new footwear which comes from ‘layering and exchanging elements across archival styles.’ IBJ