Lanvin S/S 2017
Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s S/S collection for Lanvin wasn’t generated from a single reference point. 'I decided to go with room and creativity,' he said, taking the opportunity to experiment and play with the skills of the atelier. This resulted in a mix of smooth, classic menswear textures, worn alongside more industrial dry and matte finishes. The clothes took inspiration from items of the urban wardrobe; loose jeans had shortened cuffs, sports shoes were worn with coloured laces and striped shirts were layered to clash.
Best in show: The overall look was worn-in. Creases at the knee and tucks at the elbow had been skilfully sewn in before being pressed and unstitched, leaving behind a natural pleat lending a more romantic, softer look than normal. Applied to leather, the same technique brought the interior detail of a standout parka to the surface.
Finishing touches: Graphic flourishes were peppered throughout. Exposed topstitched lines ran down the length of plaid trouser pockets, the front of an oversize shirt or the sleeve of a jacket. Fat reflective strips were sewn, applied or ironed-on behind the knee on trousers or just below the elbow on roomy overcoats. Arrows, roses, tattooed babes and stars, cross-stitched and applied onto patches added to the folk-futurist mood.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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