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Gucci intertwines its Italian heritage with contemporary design codes in the release of its first in-house calibre. The GUCCI 25H watch marks the centenary of the luxury fashion brand, encompassing both the rich history at the brand’s heart and a forward-thinking technicality to bring a sporty elegance to industrial design.
The name of the watch riffs off creative director Alessandro Michele’s fondness for his lucky number, 25; frequently woven throughout his collections, here it represents the sharp technical accomplishment which characterises this new timepiece.
Gucci’s first in-house calibre: the GG727.25 movement
The GG727.25 movement, marking the first time Gucci has unveiled an in-house calibre, is named after significant motifs in the brand’s history – the number ‘7’ expresses a sense of completeness, ‘2’ a sense of balance and ‘5’ freedom and curiosity.
Developed by the movement manufacture Kering in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the intricate technicality makes a fitting foil for the sleekness of the new case design; measuring just 7.2mm, it is thinner than ever and cuts a sylph-like slender silhouette.
The new movement is housed in a steel case, its clean surfaces inspired by architectural references in their play on curves and angles, with the simple functionality reflected in the uncluttered lines of the case and embellished only with the interlocking G logo on the crown.
The watch’s silhouette forms a fluid loop, the integrated pattern of the bracelet juxtaposing polished and satin-brushed metal finishes for a texture clash that is carried through to the satin-brushed lines on the dial.
The watch is interpreted in four editions, which range from the cleanly classic to glitteringly garnished.
The slender case of the GUCCI 25H Automatic Steel is undercut with horizontal lines, creating the illusion of depth, with stark, unadorned indices the only embellishment on the clean face. The jewel-studded decorated movement, engraved with a wave pattern, glimpsed through the sapphire crystal caseback, marries warm curves with sleek lines.
In the GUCCI 25H Automatic Diamonds, this clean form is adorned with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds that circle the cushion shape of the bezel, bringing a dazzling modernity to precious stones.
The tourbillion takes centre stage
In the other pieces in the collection, technical mastery comes to the forefront, with the accomplished tourbillion taking centre stage in two editions.
The Tourbillon Platinum, encased in tough and precious platinum, its hypnotising rotations easily admired through the sapphire caseback, is punctuated only by the deep blue of the screws.
In the Tourbillon, in 18ct yellow gold, the warmth of the precious metal brings a high jewellery sensibility to a chic and technical take on contemporary watchmaking.
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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