Contrary to its name, the latest from St Petersburg restaurateur Mikhail Georgievsky features soothing curves and soft furnishings. Interior designer Stanislav Braslavskii took cues from 1950s and 60s architecture in contemporary Cologne. Furniture is bespoke and windows are filled with vintage knick-knacks. Walls are duck-egg blue, while yellow spot lighting falls on tables like yolks. The parquet floor alone took two months to lay.

New York based food expert Natalie Cortex consulted with chef Serge Truto on a ’bistromania’ menu, with surprising results, such as camembert and pear chutney in a turkey burger. Their philosophy is seasonal, local and homemade. The emphasis is on provenance for mixologist Igor Zernov, who uses smoked salt from Kostroma for his margarita. There’s a sense of fun in the children’s area with cartoon soundtracks for background music, and mischief in the loos, where an 18+ sign, at adult eye level, indicates a retro peep show.