Scene setting: Nicolas Ghesquière has the power to turn the Louvre each season into whatever his mind summons, be it the never-ending corridors of a futuristic spaceship or, as last season, the outside of Beaubourg complete with a retro rendition of Renzo Piano’s Centre Georges Pompidou façade. This time, though, he chose simplicity.
In an outside cour just past the pyramid entrance of the museum, the French maison had installed a plywood box-shaped building with generous light, a cream carpet and what seemed to be a wood-patterned background… which, as the show started, turned out to be a giant screen, in which the video for It’s Okay to Cry started playing, doubling as the show’s soundtrack. Released last year, the song was written by Glasgow-born musician Sophie (best known for producing for Madonna or Charli XCX) and the colourful, cosmic-inspired video set an otherworldly tone for fashion month’s last show.
Best in show: The collection, however, didn’t look forward as much as it did back. At Ghesquière shows, guests are trained to expect one or the other; however, no one had seen this season’s inspiration coming: Belle Epoque-era Paris. Backstage, the designer referenced the illustrations of Alfons Mucha and the works of Marcel Proust, but there was also a reflection on how the early 21st century mimics the early 20th century, with its technological revolutions and societal changes.
On the catwalk, those musings were expressed through hi-tech fabrics covered in Art Nouveau prints viewed through a Biba and Carnaby Street filter. Proportions were mini, shoulders were structured but never oversized, waists were cinched and volume play was concentrated in the sleeves. A rich colour palette and texture variety gave the collection a distinctly modern appeal.
Finishing touches: Accessories – undeniable eye candy at Ghesquière’s Vuitton –mixed classic monogrammed totes, new best-sellers including the egg-shaped bag, which this season took on bigger proportions and a softer, less structured quality, and pop culture references, in the form of VHS cassette-shaped leather bags with fictional movie titles that referenced the early history of the Vuitton maison.
History was also in the hair, a brilliant mix of late 60’s high volume and Gibson girl buns paired with a pristine makeup look that directed all the attention to the Burgundy-tinted, glossy mouths. If the collection will be present on all the trend reports of the season, so will the accessories and beauty. Last night, Nicolas Ghesquière proved once again that his creative vision is global.
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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Splash out! This summer’s must-have accessories take us to the beachSummer’s mood of escapism infuses Wallpaper’s pick of the season’s best accessories for men and women, from micro bags to wraparound sunglasses
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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The best spring perfumes of 2025, according to Wallpaper*The best spring perfumes of 2025 include light and airy blossoming florals, notes of ripening fruit, and fresh green accords by the likes of Réservation, Perfumer H, Louis Vuitton
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
