As Jil Sander continues to conduct its ongoing search for a new creative director, the in-house design team is charged with carrying on the flame of the house's founding designer. For pre-collections that is a non-issue but for the runway, where a kinetic sort of energy is required to inspire viewers in a live audience, it can present more of a challenge. Certainly all of the clothes we saw on this Winter runway were beautifully cut and crafted, doing justice to the twin pillar trademarks of this purist-minded brand. They featured Sander's signature clean lines, but were softly updated with tucks across shift dress fronts, or in the new longer dress shape that was taught across the hips but loose around the chest. The palette was a range of deeply muted pastels, as if only a drop of sea green, lavender or pink grapefruit had been dropped into a pool of white ink. As a whole, the collection was subtle, soft and at times lovely. But we look forward to the days when a Jil Sander show jolts us out of our seats into the wonderful surprises of avant-garde design.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Wallpaper* checks in at MACAM Hotel: a night at the museumPortugal’s first hotel-museum is home to 600 pieces of modern and contemporary art and 64 rooms for the ultimate artistic immersion
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This joyful Henri Matisse pottery collection is your new summer entertaining essentialAfter years at the helm of American ceramics company East Fork, the artist’s great-grandson is ready to embrace his family name
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This knitwear collaboration is a playful exploration of the role of the fashion criticWaste Yarn Project has collaborated with Wallpaper* contributing editor Dal Chodha on a sweater adorned with extracts from his 2020 book ‘Show Notes’, collated while reviewing the menswear shows for Wallpaper*
