MSGM S/S 2018

Overview: Has minimalism vanished? Designers have been playing with their logo placements across the S/S 2018 shows. At Dolce & Gabbana, a hand-scrawled #DG84 decorated everything from shoes to jackets and jeans. At Versace, Donatella placed the house’s 1989 logo right in the centre of T-shirts with knowing aplomb, and only last month Gucci re-appropriated the work of the iconic 80s bootlegger Dapper Dan for its Cruise collection – much to the Insta-generation’s dismay. And now Massimo Giorgetti opened his show with several athletic ‘logomania’ looks, ‘MSGM’ emblazoned in multiple dimensions across sweatshirts, shorts, T-shirts and accessories too. There was no doubt who was behind the sporty, urban surf collection – it was spelt out for all to see.

Mood board: What followed was a trip to that oft-referenced decade: the nineties. The look was surf-rock that was equal parts hippy and trippy. Giorgetti explained that Venice Beach, California was his inspiration, in particular that point in the early evening when the sun begins to set and the surfers come ashore to party. The clothes were suitably young. They had pep. Florals were in acid watercolours and a camo of palm fronds was laid over madras check; layering was key thematically and stylistically. Jumbo stripe knit cardigans were worn over technical zip up hoodies and shirts under roomy crew neck T-shirts. Traditional fabrications were used in modern, sporty shapes: coated Tyvek parkas had geo-grosgrain bands. Denim and heavy cotton drill were printed with a hand painted floral bouquet.

Finishing touches: Standout were the many hippy-lux iterations of the brand’s popular sneakers. They came in clear plastic with branded laces and geo-grosgrain ribbon, multicoloured or with a beaded fringe from Mexican blanket stripes and baja ombré rainbow knits.