Scene setting: Roberto Cavalli’s newly appointed creative director Paul Surridge held his debut show for the Italian label in the grounds of the Parco Sempione. Guests were seated in a huge clear marquee as sunlight shone through the roof – fitting for a brand being reinterpreted in a new light.

Mood board: British-born Surridge – whose credentials include menswear at Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Z Zegna – was an unexpected choice for the creative directorship. His new vision for the brand was highly anticipated, and the designer spoke of bringing a ‘spirit of evolution’ to a brand associated with furs and exotic skins, outré sexuality and holidaying in Ibiza. This meant menswear tailoring layered with zebra-print pony-skin waistcoats, tan crocodile skin trousers with cut-out vest tops and flowing gowns with black crocodile skin bodices and khaki shirts with matching oversized trousers. It was a collection that mixed safari prints with Tuscan tones and biker silhouettes, in a more modern interpretation of sensuality.

Finishing touches: A nod to his menswear background, Surridge’s footwear focus was on flat shoes. Looks were paired with pointed slippers in a variety of textures, colours and animal prints. Forget stilettos tottering up the steps of private jets, the new Cavalli woman is more likely to be roving in sophisticated comfort.

RELATED TOPICS: ROBERTO CAVALLI