Scene setting: Roberto Cavalli’s newly appointed creative director Paul Surridge held his debut show for the Italian label in the grounds of the Parco Sempione. Guests were seated in a huge clear marquee as sunlight shone through the roof – fitting for a brand being reinterpreted in a new light.
Mood board: British-born Surridge – whose credentials include menswear at Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Z Zegna – was an unexpected choice for the creative directorship. His new vision for the brand was highly anticipated, and the designer spoke of bringing a ‘spirit of evolution’ to a brand associated with furs and exotic skins, outré sexuality and holidaying in Ibiza. This meant menswear tailoring layered with zebra-print pony-skin waistcoats, tan crocodile skin trousers with cut-out vest tops and flowing gowns with black crocodile skin bodices and khaki shirts with matching oversized trousers. It was a collection that mixed safari prints with Tuscan tones and biker silhouettes, in a more modern interpretation of sensuality.
Finishing touches: A nod to his menswear background, Surridge’s footwear focus was on flat shoes. Looks were paired with pointed slippers in a variety of textures, colours and animal prints. Forget stilettos tottering up the steps of private jets, the new Cavalli woman is more likely to be roving in sophisticated comfort.