Ceramic edge: Our standout from this year's TEFAF New York? James de Givenchy for Taffin’s first participation in the contemporary art show since the house was established two decades ago. Givenchy is renowned for his imaginative use of colour, and exploring unusual materials including ceramic. At TEFAF, his experimentation was highlighted in a series of chunky 18-ct rose gold rings, their lozenge and brown yellow diamonds set in verdigris and bold hued ceramic. We’re also particularly taken with this pair of graphic earrings, in red ceramic, reverse jade, and spiky reverse set diamonds. With such a range of innovative and eye-catching jewels on show, here’s hoping James de Givenchy for Taffin returns to TEFAF New York next year.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Ghost stories: For the third time, Victoire de Castellane looked to the Château de Versailles for inspiration behind her Haute Joaillerie collection for Dior. With her past designs paying tribute to the ostentatious interiors and cascading gardens of the historic palace, Castellane cast her gaze on the myriad secret passages that populated the palace, and the ghosts of courtiers and kings that frequented them. These asymmetric 'Vanité Pierre de Lune' earrings nod to these non-earthly visitors. The central moonstone of each earring has been faceted into the shape of a skull, while sapphire drops emphasise the spectral iridescent reflection of each design.
Russian evolution: French maison Chaumet looked to the wintry plains of Russia for its latest High Jewellery collection, with extravagant pieces encrusted with frosty diamonds and icy blue Ceylon sapphires. The house also used Padparadscha sapphires to evoke the pink sky of the rising or setting sun, seen here in this brooch - its sugary centre circled by white and pink gold, which resembles the icy spines of snowflakes. Its pointed tip even resembles an icicle.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
In ribbons: Place Vendôme-based jewellery maison Reza is renowned for blending unusual designs with bold, precious gemstones. Take these 'Ruban' earrings, which appear like lengths of spiralling ribbon and coil around the ear lobe. They boast over seventy brilliant-cut diamonds and rubies. Set against distinctive blackened white gold, this brings a flame-like finish to the unfurling designs.
Animal instinct: Chanel’s 'L’esprit Du Lion' High Jewellery collection looked to lion motifs in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment, like a marble carving on a table or a wooden sculpture sitting on a fireplace. This ‘Eternal’ necklace (left), nods to the longstanding symbol of the lion in Chanel's visual history, and the mythical symbol of Gabrielle Chanel’s Leo starsign, with varying circles of diamond encrusted white gold chain, connected by a regal lion’s head. This ‘Brilliant’ ring (right), features lengths of diamond-encrusted chain bands of cultured pearls, yellow sapphires and spessartine garnets. The yellow gold also adds a glimmer of decadent eighties excess.
Word play: Swiss jeweller Suzanne Syz sublimely balances the high and the low in her designs, experimenting with everyday symbols like Lifesaver sweets and lightbulbs. In a pop art homage, the designer experimented with words and punctuation in her latest high jewellery collection. These 'No’ earrings, in bulgy and cartoonish sans-serif lettering have been crafted from aluminium used in the automobile industry. The metal has been punctured with 59 diamonds, a technique inspired by industrial processes.
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