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Fashion

Style findings: dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team

16 Nov 2018

We’ve long aligned with the visual manifesto of Roland Mouret, the visionary designer who’s flattered the forms of women with his signature Galaxy dress. And it’s a manifesto more than a retrospective which the French fashion designer proposes in his latest Rizzoli-published book ‘Provoke, Attract, Seduce’, which casts an insightful eye over the aesthetic of his eponymous brand with a host of powerful images. The book touches on a host of tropes, from ‘Butcher’s Apron’ which analyses the origins of Mouret’s approach to pattern cutting, inspired by his status as a butcher’s son, to ‘First Looks’, a dive into the debut looks which defined his career. We’re not sure which page to turn to first.

Photography: Tierney Gearon from the Butcher’s Apron. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Joseph Szabo’s authentic and raw imagery of American youth and the classic silhouettes of the Sixties and Seventies formed the inspiration for a capsule collection that brings together the denim worlds of Marques’Almeida and 7 For All Mankind. The authentic styles of the latter have been given a Marques’Almeida influence of raw cut hems and frayed details. Dark indigo denim trousers and jackets receive a fresh white painted print and an oversized jacket inspired by vintage flying jackets is finished with a soft shearling lining. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Late last year, designer Holly Fulton and illustrator James Lambert initiated a project full of colour, charisma and craft. Bringing together three artists who are part of the inclusive art studio Intoart, the duo oversaw the creation of jumpers, dresses, scarves and shawls for John Smedley. The capsule collection launching this week features hand-drawn designs by Ntiense Eno Amooquaye, Yoshiko Phillips and Andre Williams. This is Intoart’s first foray into fashion. Standouts are Andre Williams’s knits that feature his witty, upbeat typographical observations.

Writer: Dal Chodha

For A/W 2018, we put our design knowledge to good use, and collaborated with French outerwear behemoth Rossignol on an alluring skiwear collection. The offering, imagined in an array of reds and blues, also masterfully combines the Wallpaper* and Rossignol logo into one maximum-making motif. Now, the styles have well and truly skied into New York City, debuting with a launch party at visionary boutique The Webster. Whether you’re in Manhattan or a more off-piste location, it’s a collaboration well worth looking out for.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

2018 is a milestone year for outerwear expert Herno. It marks not just its 70th anniversary, but also its 50th year selling in Japan. In January, Herno celebrated this with an expansive retrospective exhibition as part of Pitti Uomo 2018, but for those not lucky enough to make the show in person, its history has now been captured inside the pages of a new tome. The raincoat specialist is intrinsically associated with water, and ‘In Flumine est Vita’ draws on the analogy of lakes, and the concept of bringing the shores of Herno’s ideology across the globe. Amongst the pages, images of Herno’s factory, specialist designs, and its old advertising campaigns feature, but it’s this visual of Switzerland’s Lake Maggiore that’s really washing over us. Lensed by Japanese artist Asako Narahashi, it’s an exemplary symbol of Herno’s water-inspired world.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Giuseppe Zanotti often dives deep into the ocean when searching for the inspirations behind his designs. Take the brand’s signature sandals, which feature glinting crystal sea creature embellishments. Now, the Italian accessories behemoth has submerged once more beneath the waves, for the meaning behind his latest sneaker, which is inspired by the spiny exterior of a sea urchin. The trainer’s state-of-the-art spiky sole looks to the markings of Zanotti’s namesake sea dweller, with its 3D scales designed not just to cut through the air, but through the crowd too. Now that’s a way to make a splash.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé were renowned for filling their Paris apartments with rare art objects, and before a Christie’s sale in 2011, amassed a collection spanning pieces by Brancusi, Warhol and Matisse. Now, under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the Parisian maison has polished its artworld credentials, with the first iteration of ‘SELF’ a new project capturing different aspects of the brand’s personality through a series of collaborations with artists, filmmakers and photographers. SELF_01 took place as part of Paris Photo, and featured a collaboration with renowned Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama. The installation was encapsulated in a series of tessellated black and white images featuring men and women in seductive and glossy Saint Laurent ensembles, presented inside an immersive light installation. We can’t wait to see the next installment.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Hérmes has long been shrouded in luxury and exclusivity, but its latest showcase, a design-focused experience highlighting the craftsmanship and artistry underpinning its iconic collection of silk scarves, is set to provide inspiration for all. Having popped up in New York City, and now in downtown Los Angeles, the public installation puts a fun spin on the classic carré with multiple environments that speak to Hérmes’ contemporary vision. Ranging from a gentleman’s club, an artist’s workshop, and a private apartment, the space serves as a colourful backdrop for fans of the label to learn more about the scarves. From demonstrations by the artists who’ve created the detailed illustrations for the scarves, including artist Edouard Baribeaud and Virginie Jamin, to a Carré-OK studio where visitors can belt out tunes inspired by silk scores, the club highlights the whimsical creative spirit at the heart of the brand. Hérmes’ Carré Club is on view until 11 November

Writer: Pei Ru-Keh

After making sure we are protected from a torrential downpour, Danish outerwear brand Rains has now also got us covered for the wet and cold of winter. Its new breathable Thermal range includes puffer jackets and a padded parka, which are designed to resist the cold temperatures of Scandinavia or any other winter destination. Bring on those colder climes. 

We’re always in the mood for a celebration, and today we’re toasting the tenth anniversary of London-based accessories label Sophie Hulme. From Hulme’s idiosyncratic gold hardware Albion tote bag to its cocktail stirrer-inspired shoulder style, the past ten years has had us coveting a range of the brand’s pieces. In celebration of its ten-year milestone, Hulme has created a series of playful images which show off both its Resort 2019 bag styles and its capsule coat collection. These have been shot by London-based photographer Luke Stephenson, and feature a host of ten year olds, from aspiring teachers to Liverpool FC football players, sporting Hulme’s wares. Cheers to that!

Photography: Luke Stephenson. Writer: Laura Hawkins

With those winter nights well and drawing in, we’re in good need of a warming blanket or two. Lucky for us, that APC Quilts has launched the 15th iteration of its quilts series, designed by Jessica Ogden. There’s an oceanic air behind this panelled ‘Hegemony’ quilt which would look equally alluring in a countryside home or wood beamed beach hut. We’ll be warm as toast all winter.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

This season, we’re getting acquainted with Tiger of Sweden’s Branilde tote bag, the latest addition to the label’s line-up of accessories. Inspired by the Eva chair designed by renowned Swedish furniture designer and architect Bruno Mathsson in 1935, the tote honours the chair’s jute webbed seat construction, whilst its tan leather handles emulate its bent birch frame. Now that’s an edge of your seat accessory.

Writer: Jason Hughes

For those who weren’t able to see Balenciaga’s A/W 2018 graffiti-tagged mountain show set in real life, you’re in luck. For the French maison – in collaboration with Rizzoli – has released a sumptuous hardback book bulging with backstage catwalk images from its unisex autumn runway show, from accessory close-ups to candid shots of the brand’s renowned 3D moulded velvet blazers and multi-layered outerwear. The colourful snapshots are encased within a hardback spray-painted cover, and like the line-ups of models captured, ready to take to the catwalk, we suggest you form an orderly queue to pre-order now.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Being the new kid on the block is never easy, but the fledgling shoe label Labucq has already gotten off on the right foot. Founded by designer Lauren Bucquet, previously the director of footwear and accessories at Rag & Bone, where she worked for 10 years, Labucq is focused on creating subversive yet well-made boots, pumps and flats for the modern woman. Supported by Bucquet’s longstanding relationships with family-run factories and tanneries in Italy, the label’s wares are beautifully crafted, distinctive and smart, while eschewing traditional mark-ups, thanks to its direct to consumer business model. Each style brims over with clever details, from the type of leather used and the incorporation of hardware details, to its memorable silhouettes and architecturally sculpted heels. Its name may be new, but the label’s sense of style and proportion are the mark of a true veteran.

Performance wear experts C.P. Company are masters in colour theory. Just look to the fact the brand was the first pioneer of garment dyeing in the early 1970s – a technique now integral to bold, and highly functionable outerwear. Excelling in its innovative prowess, the Italian brand has now become the first label to offer a custom-made dyeing service, where customers can choose to select C.P. Company’s renowned ‘Goggle Hoody’ in whatever hue they are lusting after. A dedicated colour tailor will assist customers with every step of the shade-focused process, and they will receive a selection of dip samples before deciding on their final tone. Colour charts at the ready!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For its S/S 2019 men’s and women’s shows, Prada created a blow-out show space lined with transparent inflatable stools. The furniture design of this seating was originally conceived by Danish designer Verner Panton in the early 1960s, and it was one of the very first pieces of furniture made from inflatable material. At the show, guests appeared as if they were floating on air, and this is a sensation that eager interior design shoppers can now experience, as the stool has been produced by the brand, and is available for pre-order on Prada’s website. Talk about fantastic plastic – it is also crafted from 100 per cent welded recyclable film.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Skaters and shoppers of London, unite! For Selfridges’ new Designer Street Room on its menswear floor, offers not only the latest progressive fashion labels, but a sleek skatepark too. The new space features a whopping 80 new brands, and presents labels like A-COLD-WALL*, Gucci, Versace and Stone Island with unexpected adjacency. The 18000 sq ft space - designed by Jamie Fobert Architects - has drawn from cultures that inform Selfridges’ buy, and the skating community has been symbolised by a fully enclosed wooden skate bowl. So why not hit the shops and the half pipe in one stylish swoop, for some forward thinking kickflip flair.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The clog – also known as a Dutch cliché – was once designed to protect the feet from the wet and harsh elements of the low lands, and quickly spread throughout Europe as a practical shoe. The team at FEIT have given the wooden design a modern update. Just like the Dutch original, each pair is built by hand, with a solid sole and adjustable back strap. The comfortable shearling foot bed gives extra warmth and allows you to wear them no matter what the temperature is.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Jason Wu is encouraging a touch of LA-based leaning, and is collaborating with the Otis College of Art and Design – the city’s first independent school of art, and Mary and David Martin’s MADWORKSHOP Foundation to mentor 15 students this autumn. Wu is a stalwart of the New York Fashion Week calendar – having established his eponymous label in 2007 – and his collaboration will examine the symbolism of uniforms in the Forties and Fifties, and translate these tropes into a contemporary ready-to-wear collection. This offering will also benefit from access to the Costume and Textiles Department at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. It also celebrates the centenary of Otis College. The result of the work will culminate in a runway show in May 2019. Stay tuned!

Browns brings the iconic cartoon Peanuts to life in a collection of ready-to-wear and lifestyle products ranging from humorous tote bags to artsy sweaters, and cute water bottles to colourful skateboards. By teaming up with the Peanuts Global Artist Collective and four brands – Corkcicle, Denik, Champion and Pintrill – Browns has turned Snoopy and Charlie Brown-inspired works from three artists into affordable items paying homage to cartoonist Charles M Chulz’s signature style. We’re looking forward to jotting down our lists in this Denik-designed notepad. The collection, available from tomorrow also coincides with the Good Grief, Charlie Brown! exhibition on show at Somerset House, and two installations by LA-based artist FriendsWithYou that can be spotted outside of the art gallery and Browns East.

Writer: Morgane Nyfeler

Italian elegance meets Japanese innovation in a new capsule collection from Venetian menswear brand Slowear and Tokyo-based performance pioneers nanamica. Form and function seamlessly meet in a collection of city separates. Highlights include an update of nanamica’s signature raincoat made from a uniquely developed weather resistant material that protects its wearer from wind, rain and cold. Elsewhere a slimly tailored jacket in a breathable technical fabric with thermoregulating  properties gives it all-year-round wearability. A water-resistant nylon backpack with laptop compartment completes the collection.

Writer: Jason Hughes

There’s been a strong dose of anticipation surrounding the debut designs of Celine’s artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane, and now his first accessory designs – from chic shoulder bags to voluminous doctor’s bags – are available to pre-order. Not just that, these bags – which include this ‘Triomphe’ style, boasting luxurious turquoise calfskin, and alluring ‘C’ logo hardware – are presented against the sleek backdrop of Celine’s revamped website. So whether you’re pre-ordering your most coveted bag or simply browsing the website’s new categories, which cover its artistic collaborations and newly installed couture maison, we suggest you logon immediately.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

There’s only three days left to make the most of the magic abounding in Mayfair, in the form of Louis Vuitton’s S/S 2019 menswear pop-up shop. The space is a celebration of creative director Virgil Abloh’s anticipated debut collection for the house, which draws on the iconography of renowned musical The Wizard of Oz. For his inaugural offering Abloh created knitwear pieces featuring images of the yellow brick road, one reimagined as you climb the staircase of the temporary townhouse space. So why not book an appointment to enter, and immerse yourself in the magic of Louis Vuitton’s menswear universe, before the space closes on 25 October.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

The American artist and trailblazer Simone Leigh has won the 2018 Hugo Boss Prize. Leigh, who was born in Chicago to Jamaican parents and is now based in New York, is best known for her use of African ceramics and pottery to investigate black female subjectivity and ethnography. With a practice that includes sculpture, video and installation, Leigh’s works often employs materials and forms typically seen in African art. As the 12th winner of the Hugo Boss Prize, Leigh now joins the ranks of former recipients of the $100,000 prize, administered by the Guggenheim Foundation, which have included Matthew Barney (1996), Tacita Dean (2006) and Danh V (2012), in recognition of her outstanding contribution to contemporary art.

Writer: Pei-Ru Keh

Recent Edinburgh College of Art graduate Aurélie Fontan is the first designer to create a collection entirely with a smartphone. By partnering with Samsung, the sustainable designer used the Galaxy Note9 to design and produce her ‘Mobile Couture’ outfits, employing new technologies such as 3D printing, digital sketching and design robots. The futuristic dresses were then crafted at a very high speed with strips of recyclable leather fixed together with biodegradable plastic clips. When such a small tool can now be used to direct the creation of a whole garment, who knows what else the future holds.

Writer: Morgane Nyfeler

Earlier this month, we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the 17 exhibition rooms showcasing Gucci and Maurizio Cattelan’s ‘The Artist is Present show at the Yuz Museum in Shanghai. The exhibition explores the power of copy culture and appropriation within the art world today, and performing a particular brick trick is this Lego version of Gucci’s signature Sylvie bag, created by Chinese artist Andy Hung. The chic style is created from over 1,000 pieces of both standard and custom-shaped Lego bricks, and took three weeks to create. There’s a more military endeavour behind Hung’s next Lego project - a real size recreation of the soldiers in the Terracotta army, chariots cavalry horses and all. Andy Hung Chi-Kin (LEGO Certified Professional) Gucci Sylvie bag made with LEGO bricks. Image courtesy of Gucci

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Should you be lucky enough to stroll through London’s Chiltern Street tomorrow, you’ll be seduced by the teal-fronted facade of Casely-Hayford’s first apartment-inspired brick-and-mortar outpost. The two floor space – which houses both the subtly subversive tailoring brand’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections and bespoke wardrobe service – is festooned with mementos, design objects and custom installations idiosyncratic of the father-and-son label. Devised by Studio Ashby, the infinitely inviting space is swathed in warm colour, and features a host of interiors delights including ceramics from Positano, rugs from Essaouira, artworks by Tomo Campbell and even a hand-woven fabric installation which flanks the space’s staircase. What’s more, the store is entirely shoppable, providing both exquisite furnishing possibilities and the chance to get suited and booted before Friday night’s festivities.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

According to Woolrich, fashion and music share a common history. 20 years after her iconic solo album The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill, the renowned musician makes her first step in fashion with a capsule collection highlighting the brand’s American heritage and continuing its ‘American Soul’ series. As part of the three outerwear pieces on offer, the neo-soul artist has reworked the red buffalo check Silverton coat with an original, black and white screen print showing a picture of herself on a spiral background, and a bold typeface on the side. With all benefits going to the MLH Foundation, it’s a fashion purchase good for the soul.

Writer: Morgane Nyfeler

Fendi’s famed double ‘F’ logo was designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965, and its tessellating letter print has become synonymous with the Roman label. But for its A/W 2018 women’s show, Fendi tipped its logo heritage on its head, debuting a collection featuring a reappropriated version of the ‘Fendi/Fila’ logo created by Instagram artist @hey_reilly. Now, the label has taken this logo fascination on step further with the launch of ‘Fendi Mania’, a collection of eye-catching ready-to-wear and accessories emblazoned with the mashed up type face. We’ll be holding onto this clutch bag all season. It’s a sublime blend of sportswear-meets-luxury and a practical hands-free piece too.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

Last autumn, we celebrated the launch of art-led Cologne-based label Speaking Garments, which debuted with a range of sweatshirts and tees in collaboration with the German sculptor Michail Pirgelis. Now, the brand has collaborated with the Cologne-located painter Jan-Ole Schiemann, whose work is currently on view at of Frieze 2018, as part of the Almine Rech Gallery’s Early 21st Century Art exhibition. The collaboration has culminated in a limited 100-edition run of sweatshirts, mesh jackets, hoodies and t-shirts, emblazoned with an abstract figurative print. We think it’s time you invest in a piece of wearable art.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

Jetting off on a long haul getaway? Burgeoning travel accessory label Ven offers a luxurious hand luggage essential. This 100% cashmere travel set – including blanket, socks, eye mask and even a pillow case to fit around a standard airline pillow – makes for a sophisticated snuggle option at high altitude. The sets are made and hand finished in Nepal, but are sure to keep you warm and relaxed whichever part of the world you are roaming to.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

For autumn, Roberto Cavalli creative director Paul Surridge has got the Midas touch. His latest accessory designs for the famed Florentine house come adorned with jangling golden coins carved with lucky symbols. This shoulder bag style has us feeling particularly fortunate. Its surface is entirely covered with gold medallions, and gives great style currency come rain or shine.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

For Namacheko’s latest installation at LNCC in London, the Sweden-based brand delved into its Kurdish heritage for inspiration. For S/S 2019, brother and sister Dilan and Lezan Lurr looked to classic Kurdish clothing, and this influence is also evoked in mohair panels which line the space, nodding to traditional blankets. Amongst gold plinths which showcase pieces from the brand’s A/W 2018 offering, a video installation projects films onto plexiglass structures, one a video of skateboarders shot in Sweden, and another of young people in Kurdistan. It’s an installation well worth hopping on your board for.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

Earlier this week, Dolce & Gabbana hosted a glittering fashion show, bulging with opulent fabrics, regal crown prints and lavish embellishments, in celebration of its new boutique in the Dubai Mall. And it’s not just the show’s ostentatious pieces that are drawing us into the store. The three floor space – designed by Marco Costanzi of MCA Studio – boasts gilded and eye-catching interior elements, from surfaces lined with Sahara Noir, Sequoia Red and Breche de Vendome yellow marble, to fixtures in Angico Preto wood, Baroque chairs to lush velvet drapery. We think it’s an essential destination on for any Dubai to do list.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

It’s been a busy year for Belgian accessories label Delvaux. The brand has opened a host of new boutiques, from Brussels to London, revealed an upcoming collaboration with French designer Jean Colonna, and 2018 also marks the 60th anniversary of its signature ‘Brilliant’ bag. The style, which was created for the 1958 World’s Fair, has been reimagined for 2018 in the form of the ‘Diva’. The most ostentatious machination of the style comes in black alligator skin, with the the inside of the bagembossed with the mark ’Brillant 60th anniversary’. We can’t think of a better way to celebrate.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With Frieze kicking off in London’s Regent’s Park this week, Dover Street Market has engaged in a wonderfully sartorial celebration of this year’s prestigious art fair. There are a host of intriguing setups and launches positioned over the different floors of the store’s Haymarket location, from an installation of Dan McCarthy’s ceramics, to a series of CDG Shirt Basquiat print pieces featured alongside a host of literature about the artist. Paul Smith’s space within the store also passes with flying colours. It has been framed by a rainbow-stripe sculpture by artist Sam Shendi, one which wonderfully reflects both Shendi and Smith’s fascination with bold tones. Us? We’re mostly green with envy.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

It’s no surprise that we’ve got our eye on Cubitts’ latest London store. The eyewear brand’s sixth boutique – located in Fitzrovia – features a curving Georgian facade, and inside, a pastel colour palette nodding to early Art Deco, plus a Thirties parquet flooring reclaimed from a school in Leicester. To mark the opening of its 44 Charlotte Street location, Cubitts have also launched an exclusive collection of four made-to-measure frames. On our next foray into Fitzrovia, we’ll be flaunting this ‘Charlotte’ style, characterised by their unusual round frames and flat lug.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Clarks is reaching new heights with its latest collaboration with Land Rover. Its ‘Life. Limitless’ collection has been conceived by Clarks’ and Land Rovers’ innovative laboratories and is encompassed in three outdoors-ready shoe styles. We’ll be striding forth in the ‘CLR52.N’ style, a terrain responsive walking boot designed to withstand surfaces from the sidewalk to slippy mud ruts. ‘Much like the Land Rover vehicles, the shoes are terrain appropriate, providing practicality and comfort in equal measure to the wearer, elements that are core to our DNA,’ says Clarks’ chief brand officer Jason Beckley of the endurance-ready collaboration.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Fotis Evans is the creative mind behind some of Hermès most imaginative window installations, from New York to London. For Evans’ latest project for the French luxury house – a series of six kinetic windows displays in its new Hong Kong flagship store – the designer has looked to the concept of play. Inspired by the concept of Freudian daydreaming, the setups nod to the naive childhood concept of play, from a window evoking the sea monster in Sinbad the Sailor to one swirling with Chinese yo-yos, a set up of a futuristic spaceship, to a kaleidoscopic Cinderella carriage. Fantastical childhood scenes we only wish were recurring dreams.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

After undergoing a makeover, AMI’s left bank Parisian boutique has reopened to welcome its ‘menswear for women’ collection. Founded by Alexandre Mattiussi, the casual chic label has launched its first collection of men’s looks for women, made of oversized sweaters and pants as well as tailored coats, that can be found in its intimate new boutique designed by Studio KO. Mirrored details, bronze racks and marble surfaces punctuate the space, while the dusty rose and green palette brings a feminine touch. A classical bust bearing a moustache similar to the facial hair of the brand’s founder brings a light hearted humour to the space.

Photography: Yann Deret. Writer: Morgane Nyfeler

Max Mara may always be best known for its iconic 101801 camel-hued coat, yet since 2008, its array of padded down coats and matching accessories, collectively known as The Cube, has served as a worthy competitor. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of these innovative and functional pieces, along with their recognizable box bag packaging, Max Mara has commissioned three photographers: Hellen van Meene, Max Farago and Rinko Kawauchi, to interpret The Cube’s spirit of combining creativity, experimentation and industrialisation. The images not only highlight the sartorial beauty and adaptability of the pieces, but also its value as a true design object – a sentiment shared by the Staatliche Museum in Berlin and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, who both count The Cube’s original design in its collections.

Writer: Pei-Ru Keh

This season sees Amsterdam based skate brand Pop Trading Company join forces with cult Japanese label Minotaur on a capsule collection of forward thinking menswear separates. Minotaur’s signature use of high-tech fabrics and innovative garment construction is fused with Pop Trading Company’s skate inspired aesthetic on six pieces with durability, comfort and functionality at their core. Highlights include a reworking of Minotaur’s classic hunting jacket updated in waterproof Kevlar fabric, featuring durable patches on its sleeves to prevent scuffs and tears from slamming whilst skating, and a showerproof reversible gilet in super stretch fabric with breathable membrane.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Danish designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan has opened his first boutique in the centre of Copenhagen. David Thulstrup, the architect behind the new interiors of Noma, was invited to transform the early 20th century space into a store that would allow Tan to share more of his universe. ‘As it’s Mark’s first store I wanted to create the perfect framework to highlight the minimalist, classic and feminine silhouettes he is known for,’ says Thulstrup. The boutique will not just feature Tan’s designs, but also that of collaborations with other designers and art that inspires him. And for those in need a quiet moment during a busy day in Copenhagen, in the back of the store you will find a soft daybed designed by Thulstrup, where you’re more than welcome to get comfortable.

Photography: Irina Boersma. Writer: Lune Kuipers

Cult culinary lifestyle brand Hedley & Bennett – who outfit the top chefs in cool aprons with colorful accents – has flipped the switch with renowned sports footwear brand Vans to collaborate on a limited-edition capsule collection. ‘Made for the Makers’ includes classic Slip-On and Sk8-Hi trainers in durable navy canvas with traction heavy rainbow lugged outsoles that were inspired by the painted wall outside the Hedley & Bennett factory in downtown Los Angeles. The apron features Vans’ renowned checkerboard pattern along with Hedley & Bennett’s best-selling Pho stretch denim fabric with double pen and lap pockets plus blue details to tie back to the shoes.  As a design ‘first’ for both brands, the inspiration was to celebrate the creative spirit of the community and pros who do what they love. The contoured drop-in UltraCush and sock liners of the shoes let you bounce around on your feet all day in comfort and pops of orange, along with the signature ampersand, add flair and style, while the fabric is also great for hiding spills stains during the daily kitchen and life hustle. 

Photography: Courtesy of Hedley & Bennett. Writer: Carole Dixon

Italian apparel brand Stone Island has been at the forefront of technological innovation in fabric development and garment construction since the early 1980s. This season is no exception, with the brand replicating the fur of white tigers in a camouflage-like pattern. Achieved through a series of different print techniques, the pattern covers outerwear, trousers and accessories in lightweight cotton nylon canvas, alongside sweatshirts and t-shirts. Animal magnetism meets material innovation, menswear with a meow!

Writer: Jason Hughes

It’s been a busy week for Italian label Etro. First the label went wet-and-wild at Milan Fashion Week, with a surfs-up inspired S/S2 2019 collection, and now, in celebration of its 50th anniversary, it has opened ‘Generation Paisley’ an exhibition at Milan’s MUDEC, celebrating its patterned and vivid history. The tactile exhibition – all walls covered in eye-catching fabrics and digital projections – spans five rooms, and just like the growing nature of the family-owned business, has a huge patchwork tree at its epicentre. True to the paisley print Etro is renowned for, the exhibition presents a swirling and colourful presentation of its history, one on view until 14th October.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Jil Sander’s S/S 2019 collection was rich in Japanese references, from wooden stacked flip flops, to clean shapes and kimono silhouettes. It’s a sublime fit then, that the brand’s creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier have today opened a store in Tokyo’s Omotesando, designed by Wallpaper* collaborator John Pawson. The space is a synergy of Sander and Pawson’s simple and pure perspectives, featuring a facade with a long window at street level, and interior accents of white Lasa marble and limestone with glass vitrines framed with cherry wood. Sophisticated yet simplistic, refined yet warm, the space is a sleek setting for displaying those Japan-focused silhouettes come spring.

Photography: Nacasa & Partners. Writer: Laura Hawkins

As part of London Design Biennale cashmere brand Oyuna has created an installation in partnership with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance at Somerset House. Responding to this year’s theme Emotional State, the installation shares the story of the cashmere production and crafts people working in Mongolia. Visitors are invited to come and touch the cashmere clouds, which were created from 40 kilograms of raw cashmere, and for a moment connect with life in Mongolia. The London Design Biennale runs until 23 September.

Photography: Dmitry Tolmachev. Writer: Lune Kuipers

We’re so dedicated to Dimore Studio’s aesthetic that we awarded its design of Fendi’s VIP room in its refurbished Sloane Street store ‘Best Personal Space’ in our 2018 Design Awards. Imagine our delight then, to learn that the Milan-based interiors studio has designed Excelsior Milano’s temporary store at Galleria del Corso. Under the artistic direction of Sugar’s Beppe Angiolini, Dimore Studio have conceived a space with silver walls, floors boasting custom-made carpets and fixtures crafted from Innocenti tubing. On the fourth floor accessories hall, a comfy ottoman comes upholstered with fake fur and silk cushions; we think it’s a sumptuous place to recline and take a stylish shopping break.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Lucky enough to be jetting off for some September sun? Our packing pre requisite comes courtesy of swimwear label Ava Verdu. This contouring swimsuit, comes with a stingray-inspired sculptural clasp, and is an eye-catching motif that will keep you afloat all holiday.

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Fashion month means a plethora of show invites and schedules to file and store on-the-go. When we make our way to Milan later this week, this oversized multi-pocket DeMellier clutch is top of our packing list. Each eye-catching colourful compartment will stow away all your essentials, and is a distinct take on a hands-free holdall too.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Fresh off the back of the Robert Storey-designed Prada installation which opened Matchesfashion’s experiential and immersive 5 Carlos Place townhouse earlier this month, the innovative retailer has launched a new installation with French fashion extraordinaire Marine Serre. The piece also marks Serre’s new capsule collection for Matchesfashion, which encompasses double layer scuba suit ruffled dresses and moon-motif Swarovski crystal boots, designed in collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood. Created in collaboration with Tanguy Poujol for Kristin Lambert Studio – who has worked on Serre’s advertising campaigns – the installation evokes a muscle-building gym setup, but instead of body builders hanging from its bars, foulard scarves and crystal embellished leggings hang suspended within the space. The installation is on view from 14 – 19 September.

Photography: Amelia Allen. Writer: Laura Hawkins

British designer JW Anderson is a renowned art and furniture collector – a penchant noted in the lookbook for his latest capsule collection for Net-a-Porter. The offering is made up of a selection of pieces from Anderson’s upcoming S/S 2019 collection, which will be available to purchase after his LFW show on Saturday. For spring, Anderson has looked to the British Aesthetic Movement and the concept of ‘Art for Art’s sake’. The collection features whimsical ruffled dresses, twisted shirts and checked tailoring, and prints courtesty of designer and theorist, Christopher Dresser and architect EW Godwin. In the Wallpaper* hot seat is this bold bird print shoulder bag, hanging from a graphic Voysey Oak Armchair. We’ll be snapping it up straight after the show.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With S/S 2019’s fashion week in full swing, we’ve been in search of a sublime bag for transporting our runaround essentials from show to show. Enter Loewe’s Gate bag, a sleek saddle-inspired design with a crafty knotted strap fastening and enclosure-inspired metal side hinge-pin, which has now been updated in a series of sizes. We’ve settled on this eye-catching mini style in bold red leather. Its autumnal colouring will take us from show season into the cooling months beyond.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Swedish label Eytys has well and truly hopped skipped and jumped into London, with the opening of its first store on Soho’s Brewer Street. The slick and minimalist 1000 sq ft space – which houses both its signature trainers and soon to launch ready-to-wear collection – looks to images of renowned furniture designer Shiro Kuramata’s store’s for Issey Miyake in Japan in the early ’80s. Constructed using concrete, aluminium and Italian burl veneer, the store, which riffs on both Sixties brutalism and postmodernism of the Seventies and Eighties, also features artworks from founders Max Schiller and Jonathan Hirschfeld personal collections. So put your best foot forward and take a step inside.

Photography: Nicholas Worley. 
Writer: Laura Hawkins

With New York Fashion Week in full swing, our team on the ground are always on the lookout for a little sustenance between shows. Making for a mouthwatering morsel is this Thom Browne burger, which is part of the designer’s partnership with Barneys New York. The retail behemoth and Browne have teamed up for NYFW S/S 2019, and their collaboration includes an exclusive capsule collection, a series of immersive installations and a short film titled Anatomy of a Suit. The final flavoursome element is Freds at Barneys Downtown exclusive Thom Browne beef and cheese burger, served with fries and house-made ketchup, mayonnaise, and a savoury blueberry dipping sauce in the three colours that represent Browne’s brand. Tuck in!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Stella McCartney – who opened her sustainable Old Bond Street flagship in London earlier this summer – has taken another environmentally-inclined step forward with the launch of the first vegetarian Adidas Stan Smith sneaker. McCartney began collaborating with the German sportswear behemoth in 2005, and this sole-ful partnership is encompassed in a leather-free shoe, with the style’s signature three stripes replaced with a series of Stella McCartney stars. What a way to get on the right foot.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

LA denim label 69 – founded by its anonymous founder in 2011 – uses a globally omnipresent material to convey and question political and sociological conventions. Take its penchant for oversized silhouettes, which subvert the idealised human form, or its face covering ‘Fringe Masks’ which cover the face with fronds of denim, and place focus on the fashion industry’s obsession with the perfect physiognomy. Now 30 pieces from the brand’s history are available to view in ‘Déjà Vu’, 69’s first solo museum exhibition at The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (MOCA). Spanning the brand’s first garments to pieces from its latest S/S 2019 collection, the exhibition brings new meaning to the concept of good jeans. Installation view of 69: Déjà Vu, August 4–October 28, 2018 at MOCA Pacific Design Center, courtesy of The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles, photo by Brian Forrest

Writer: Laura Hawkins

To coincide with the launch of its latest Mr P. collection, men’s online style destination Mr Porter will debut its first foray into footwear this month. Taking classic shoe staples from the archetypal man’s wardrobe, the Mr P. collection includes eight enduring styles updated for today. The timeless loafer, Derby shoe and tennis sneaker appear fuss free and form a refined range of essentials available year-round. Stepping up alongside these will be a seasonal selection of styles – winter highlights include suede desert boots with a heavy duty sole and shearing-lined walking boots perfect for the upcoming season shift.

Writer: Jason Hughes

We’ve found a sublime suitcase essential for those lucky enough to be jetting off for some September sun. This Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons x Heimat Atlantica tote bag, available at Dover Street Market in London, has been handwoven by Portuguese craftsman, using the ancient art of weaving reed. The style reflects an avant-garde approach typical of the subversive retailer, with its colourings evoking an optical illusory pattern. An accessory which will bring unusual shape to your ensembles for those last days of summer.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

What’s your usual pairing with a kebab, or, ‘Kebap’ as they say on the streets of Kreuzberg in Berlin? How about a graphic sweatshirt instead of a side of chips? For Italian label Diesel is collaborating with a true stalwart of Berlin’s street culture: Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap, the famous cult kebab kiosk. The capsule collection features a range of t-shirts, sweatshirts and hats emblazoned with each brand’s signature logo. Set with it’s own ironic look book, or cookbook, it’s the ultimate in flavoursome fashion. Get it while it’s hot!

Writer: Katie Meston

Stroll through the streets of London’s Soho any day of the week and you’ll find hoards of skate and streetwear enthusiasts queuing to shop the delights of Supreme and Palace’s stores. Now, expect even longer lines, as Stüssy — the Southern Californian label, renowned for its sought-after surfer aesthetic — has opened its doors to a new space on Wardour Street. The store has been conceptualised by W&PA, the architects behind Stüssy’s Amsterdam, Los Angeles and Toronto outposts. The slick California-inspired space features concrete, wood and green metal fixtures and large scale snaps of the brand’s A/W 2018 campaign. It also boasts limited edition clothing collaborations with Gimme 5 and Aries. We suggest you form an orderly queue.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The logo of outdoors label Fjällräven, one complete with an abstract arctic fox motif, is synonymous with sleek Swedish design. It’s a symbol too which fellow Swede Jonny Johansson – the creative director of Acne Studio– holds dear. ‘I grew up with Fjällräven. If you are Swedish, you have a very specific relationship with the brand,’ he says. Cementing this relationship one step further, the brand have collaborated with Fjällräven on a range of its most classic pieces, including its Expedition Down Jacket and Kånken backpack. The shape of this classic outdoors accessory has been reimagined as a messenger bag. Sling it over your shoulder and you’ll fill that Swedish pride too.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Two Italian houses come together in harmony for autumn, with an outerwear collaboration between Valentino and Moncler. Two down jackets have been developed for Valentino’s Pre-Fall 2018 collection: the first features the recently introduced VLTN logo, and the second an archive embroidered tiger pattern, from the brand’s A/W 1967 Haute Couture collection. Animal print and an audacious logo — we might just have to invest in both.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Back in June, the National Portrait Gallery showcased ‘Michael Jackson on the Wall’, an exhibition dedicated the renowned King of Pop’s style and music legacy. The show, which runs until mid-October features a Graham Dolphin artwork created from vinyl covers from Jackson’s 1982 ‘Thriller’. On the cover of the album, Jackson is seen clad in a white BOSS suit, so it was the perfect fit that the German tailoring label sponsored the exhibition. In celebration of Jackson’s 60th birthday tomorrow, the label have launched a new edition of the brand’s renowned white suit, and a series of limited edition t-shirts, one of which features Dolphin’s artwork. Purchase one and you’ll be moonwalking in no time.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Today marks the ten-year anniversary of British accessory house Sophie Hulme. To celebrate the occasion, the label opens the doors to it’s first permanent boutique space, housing the full collection on the red-brick stretch of London’s Chiltern Street. In celebration of the milestone, the boutique has launched an exclusive range of leather goods with London design and concept store, Darkroom. Known for their restrained collection of contrasting accessories and hard-edge aesthetic, Darkroom worked on a series of four simple geometric motifs, designed to be applied to the surface of four original Hulme bag styles. The collection sees satisfying collection of repeat pattern designs printed on intarsia leather bags and zip pouches, a perfect match to the store’s Bauhaus-inspired floor.

Writer: Katie Meston

What accessory is more fitting for lounging on the beach than shell-shaped sunnies? Introducing Chloé’s Tally frames — playfully inspired by the waved outline of a seashell — which feature gold temples, engraved with the Maison’s filigree pattern. The tips also boast a drop-shaped aperture for pairing with eyewear jewellery. Touching on a retro attitude, Tally’s contrasting double lenses are available in three colour ways, all fitted with azure and gradient brown lenses for a fresh Mediterranean hue. We’ll be shore to fit these in our beach bag.

Writer: Katie Meston

Lanvin push the boundaries of footwear design for A/W 2018, with the launch of the ‘Diving’ sneaker. Made up of several heat moulded components in contrasting materials layered over a neoprene sock, the sneakers construction eliminates all seams and comes with a custom-designed rubber sole for added flexibility.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Since Esther Schulze-Tsatsas and Dimitrios Tsatsas founded accessories label Tsatsas in 2012, we’ve delighted in the brand’s expertly crafted designs. This summer, we’ll be carrying the Frankfurt-based label’s soft Sacar bag on our shoulder, an unusual gathered design, crafted from two symmetrical pieces of leather. The name of the bag reflects the bag’s pulled-together construction. In Brazilian Portuguese the word ‘scar’ means to gather textiles together.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For Clare Waight Keller’s second ready-to-wear collection for Givenchy, the designer was inspired by the sense of brash, outré glamour in West Berlin in the Eighties, looking to films including 2015’s ‘B-Movie: Lust & Sound in West-Berlin 1979-1989’. The stand out pieces of which, included a host of sculptural faux fur coats. Camel, black, blue and ice white layers were spliced together to create elegant and pizzazz-fuelled outerwear for autumn. Evoking the cuddly yet coquettish coats in the collection, the Parisian maison have also created a range of limited-edition reversible faux fur tote bags. With two different faux furs on each side, the bag turns inside-out to reveal a more stripped back quilted leather tote, punctuated with tufts of fur peeking from within. Why have one, when you can have two?

Writer: Katie Meston

In May, we delighted in Hungarian label Nanushka’s new flagship store in Budapest, a treasure trove of easy separates, alluring homeware objects and furniture including retro wicker chairs and slouchy tangerine leather sofas. Now the brand has bolstered a wonderfully versatile option for the rest of our summer; this wrap around vegan leather shirt dress is a delectable update on a classic silhouette, and sustainable too.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With S/S 2019 women’s fashion week on the horizon, we’ve been searching for a versatile accessory that caters to our handbag essentials, yet will also allow us to jot down a note or two on the go. Enter The Clutchfolio a new hands-free hybrid accessory which boasts an in-built notepad and documents section, alongside a compartment for your phone, keys and lipstick. Practical and pared-back, minimalist yet multifaceted.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

There’s a plethora of plus points in Chloe Gosselin’s latest mules; take the comfortable and sculptural heel, or the shape’s hybrid slip on and T-bar design. The Parisian footwear designer concepts her silhouettes – which range from tiger print ankle boots to striped sliders – in her New York studio, before her shoes are crafted by artisans in Italy. We can’t wait to put our best foot forward.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

We’re hard pushed to find a favourite style in Sian Swimwear’s Resort 2019 collection. The made-in-Italy offering features an eclectic range of silhouettes, from bold cut-out swimsuits to nautical striped bikinis. We plan to make waves in this high waisted number, a bikini silhouette which exudes Hollywood glamour, whether your sipping cocktails at the Chateau Marmont or making sandcastles on the beach.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

New York-based accessories label IMAGO-A specialises in sleek and timeless shoulder bags, from miniature shapes with futuristic lucite buckles to styles crafted from geometric panels of textured leather. Founder Yegang Yoo is fascinated by interior design, and the brand’s Carré bag, complete with a screw or fitting-like hardware detail, demonstrates this flair. We’ll be flaunting ours when we’re next shopping for furniture.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In our Style Special September issue (W*234), which launched on newsstands today, we delved into fashion’s penchant for high performance wear. It’s perfect timing, then, that London-based designer Kiko Kostadinov has launched his second collaboration with ASICS, embodied in the outdoor pursuit-worthy Gel-Burz 2 trainer. The new style is imagined in seafoam, forest and terracotta (the tones in Kostadinov’s A/W 2018 collection), and the translucent rubber layers in the original release are replaced with a pottery-inspired leather panel. We’ll be sporting them on our next summer run. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins 

Illustrator and textile designer John Booth is a fashion brand favourite — the British artist has collaborated with both Fendi and menswear designer Lou Dalton. Now, Booth has teamed up with Scottish scarf and blanket label Begg & Co for the third instalment of its Artist Editions, which has already seen collaborations with Michael Wall and Sophie Smallhorn. The latest offering features Booth’s colourful and graphic creations printed on the brand’s ultralight Wispy scarf. What better way to wrap up?



Writer: Laura Hawkins

Until the end of the summer, visitors at New York’s Soho-based boutique Hesperios will be greeted by an exhibition of floral works by the artist Christina Zimpel. The fellow New Yorker’s ink drawings, entitled Botanic Paintings, were inspired by the poppies, hollyhocks and vegetables of her own garden. The homemade sodas and Scandinavian bakes available in Hesperios’ in-store café make the garden party complete.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

When it comes to evening dressing, Emilia Wickstead has your wardrobe covered. The New Zealand-born London-based designer is renowned for her elegant and feminine approach to party dressing, and now Wickstead has scored even more dinner party points with the launch of her debut homeware collection. Stocked exclusively at Moda Operandi, the range features floral-print table cloths and pretty coloured glassware. We think it makes for garden-party perfection.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

With the summer heatwave in full swing, we’re looking for a cool option for our downtime. Rossell’s Irish linen bathrobe is an excellent option: its airy shape takes inspiration from traditional Japanese silk kimonos, which the brand’s founder Jo Rossell has amassed over years of visiting the country. The robe is woven in an artisan mill in Ireland, and we’ll be wrapping up in it envisioning oriental adventures.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Heritage outerwear brand Barbour has collaborated for the first time with British designer Margaret Howell on a women’s capsule collection. Launching for A/W 2018 the collection features three different wax jacket styles inspired by the Barbour archive. The Spey takes its lead from a classic fishing style and is reimagined in a cropped and oversized cut. Then there’s the Poncho, inspired by a late 1950s smock style, and finally the Ursula, based on a standard issue submarines longer length jacket. We’ll be waxing lyrical about them all the winter through.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Adieu co-founder Benjamin Caron first discovered the work of Undercover designer Jun Takahashi a decade ago, after he released a collection dedicated to John Lydon’s band PiL (Public Image Limited). Like Takahashi, Caron had spent his teenage years devoted to the post-Pistols group: ‘It was a real religious exercise,’ he says. For A/W 2018 the duo collaborates on a special shoe; Adieu’s classic 54c derby has been re-proportioned with an extravagant, ornately chiselled welt. ‘It is a hybrid model between the 70’s English policeman and the French thick-soled Zazou from the 40s!’ Caron says. Smooth leathers are used for the upper and a glossy black coating added to the sole. ‘In practice it means that you’ll catch someone’s eye with your shoes…’ he smiles. 

Writer: Dal Chodha
 

We’re always on the look out for an impeccably cut white shirt to add to our collection. Imagine our delight, then, at discovering Absence of Paper, a label entirely dedicated to perfecting the wardrobe staple. The brainchild of Roy Luwolt, the founder and artistic director of British footwear brand Malone Souliers, Absence of Paper introduces two new styles to its roster monthly. We’ll be taking stock with this ruffled shirt, a silhouette which demonstrates real flamenco flair for summer.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

English bag and jewellery label Ferian takes its name from the Old English ‘to carry’. It’s fitting then, that we’re completely carried away with the brand’s ‘Selsey’ bag, a chic buckle-detail shoulder style, suitable for summer sojourns. Ferian’s founder Leonie Branston – who has worked for Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Calvin Klein - pays close attention to craftsmanship. The bag’s leather skins are vegetal dyed in Worcestershire, before being worked into shapes using a hand-worked saddlery technique by a factory in the West Midlands.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Victoria Beckham has scored a jump shot with the release of her eponymous brand’s anticipated Reebok collaboration. The designer’s merch line of t-shirts and hoodies looks to basketball for inspiration, and features the silhouette of a 2.16 m Shaquille O’Neal slam-dunking a basketball through a hoop. The reverse of the silhouettes also features a list of O’Neal’s achievements; a roster of accolades that are sure to inspire high performance whether you’re on the court or simply counting your steps.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

What is more disappointing than finally unpacking an online clothing order, to have expectations shattered by an item that looks nothing like it promised? Meet Dappad, the new London bespoke service removing the frustration of online ordering. Inspired by London’s Savile Row, members fill out a questionnaire, highlighting preferences in fit, colour, pattern and neckline, then sit-back and let Dappad’s personal stylist create their ideal attire. A selection of brands ranging from Orlebar Brown, AG, and Eton are shipped directly to your wardrobe door, boxed in recycled packaging stamped with a cheeky Dappad caricature. For every box made, Dappad will diligently plant a tree – it’s a service that’s definitely growing on us.

Writer: Katie Meston

Last summer, we ventured to the coastal town of Porto Cervo, to sunbathe and shop to our heart’s content at Promenade du Port, the elegant holiday destination spearheaded by Andrea Brugnoni. Imagine our delight, then, at learning that this year, No One, one of our most celebrated LA-based trainer brands had set up shop at the Sardinian spot. The artisanal brand is renowned for luxurious handmade trainers, which it creates in a laboratory style workshop in Venice. These feature as part of Promenade du Port’s LA pop-up shop, which also houses designs by cashmere specialist The Elder Statesman and hat maker Nick Fouquet. We think these trainers will be standout not only this summer, but for the rest of the year too.

Photography: Scott Schuman. Writer: Laura Hawkins

New York-based eyewear label Moscot and Brooklyn cycling brand Ascari Bicycles have got in the saddle for an exciting summer collaboration — a limited edition range of eyewear which sees Moscot’s signature Lemtosh styles updated with the signature of Ascari’s spokes. Sunglasses and optical frames have been wrapped at the temples with strands of leather, and with only fifty styles available, you’ll have to paddle fast to pick up a pair.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

‘The V&A Museum holds particular resonance for me from my days at the RCA, when I spent a lot of time relishing the visual stimulation it afforded me,’ says designer Holly Fulton on being featured as part of the London museum’s Fashion in Motion series today. Visual stimulation for the audience came in a celebration of Fulton’s decade-old print and colour-focused brand. It encapsulates says Fulton ‘a remix of our signature pieces, restyled ready for today’s Holly Fulton party girl’, like yellow laser cut mini dresses, underwater print foulard blouses and graphic print denim. For her Fashion in Motion series, Fulton also devised a show set resembling a black and white check interior, the perfect party-inspired backdrop for ‘girls basking in the afterglow of a night of disco.’

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

For the debut set of images shot to accompany creative director at large Maurizio Donadi’s first designs for AG, the renowned luxury denim label looked to a fire-damaged farm, in Lancaster, California to set the scene. The A/W 2018 images — shot by David Lim and Brandon Harman — feature models stood against fire-torched scrubland or swathed in the folds of parachutes, and act as a symbol of rebirth for the luxury brand. Come autumn, we too will be wrapped up in those dark denim jackets, shearling-lined coats and sweaters, presented as part of Donadi’s debut.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For his debut collaboration with Converse, Jonathan Anderson launched a collection of Chuck Taylor All Star 70 and Thunderbolt trainers, constructed from glittering, colourful panels of fabric. Now, in his eponymous brand’s second collection for the basketball shoe stalwart, Anderson has imagined a plastic toy-inspired series of Chuck 70 trainers in bold dégradé patent leather. The sculptural styles feature extra wide textured laces and a revamped upper sole, so toy-like and glossy you won’t know whether to play with them or to pop them onto your feet. In line with the launch, Anderson and Converse have also opened a pop-up shop in London’s Soho, complete with four days of events and talks. Game on!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The renowned Dior Saddle bag first caught our eye back in the year 2000, when then creative director John Galliano debuted the equestrian-inspired style as part of the French maison’s Spring/Summer show. Riding high is Dior’s current creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has reissued the idiosyncratic style in monochrome leather, or multicoloured patchwork embroidered with fine beads. Male fans need not fear, as last month newly appointed men’s artistic director Kim Jones also showcased the style on the S/S 2019 catwalks. We think this deep red style is one to hold your horses for. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Two years ago, friends Lily Atherton Hanbury and Katya Shyfrin launched Le Monde Beryl – a footwear line inspired by the classic Venetian gondolier’s slipper. The styles, also seen as a slip on mule, are available in a range of sumptuous textures and shades, from gold velvet to fuschia satin, and we’ll be slipping on a pair for sauntering across St Mark’s Square or simply running our weekend errands.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Salvatore Ferragamo is demonstrating Florentine flair with the launch of its men’s optical and sunglasses capsule collection. Amongst the aviator shapes and vintage-inspired styles, its hard to pick our most desired frame for an Italian adventure, but we’ve got eyes for these classic ovular frames, which we’ll be sporting on our summer holidays and beyond.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

One of the most anticipated events on luxury retail’s calendar, is the seasonal changeover at Dover Street Market’s global outposts, from London to Singapore. A host of installations, artworks and pop-ups mark the arrival of a brand’s new season pieces, from Stephen Jones’ latest millinery creations stacked on chairs at Dover Street Market Ginza, to the rocky optical illusion-like walls which set the scene for Rick Owens’ new collection over in London. We’ve found the retail behemoth’s event space at Dover Street New York particularly theatrical. Spiralling curtains are printed with images from Comme des Garçons’ glittering and wig heavy A/W 2018 show. Roll up, roll up!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Last November, acclaimed German film director Wim Wenders presented a series of five films to accompany the S/S 2018 collection of Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Luke and Lucie Meier. Now, in celebration of the label’s latest A/W 2018 collection, the design duo have reprised their collaboration with Wenders in a short film titled ‘Time Passing.’ The piece, which resembles a three-minute time loop, features a cast shifting in outfits and emotions, like a women cooking in a sleek kitchen in red knitwear, or a man in beige shirting reading from a book, all set against the backdrop of a stark, lilac curtain-lined modernist house on a lake. The film is also accompanied by a series of images taken by Donata Wenders. We can’t wait for the next installment.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Famed couturier Jeanne Lanvin’s personal writing desk was recently acquired by 18 Davies Street Gallery, and is currently on show in their Mayfair showroom. The desk is the brainchild of Armand-Albert Rateau, whose storied collaborations with Lanvin span from the historic Lanvin-Sport division, as well as the bottle for her Arpège perfume, infused with art deco elements. The influence of antiquity and the classical style is clear in Rateau’s design – the key to the desk is even carved as the Egyptian lion goddess, Sekhmet.

Writer: Michael Yeung

British clothing label Orlebar Brown have collaborated with EON productions on a limited-edition run of four James Bond-inspired shorts. Archival poster art from the classic titles of Dr No, Thunderball, You Only Live Twice and Live And Let Die feature on the signature bulldog swim shorts, which were once used at the time of release in cinema lobbies, illustrations and posters. The artwork still instigates the thrill of the Bond series; not only would the shorts be a perfect fit for escaping a pursuer on a speedboat, they’re an eye-catching fit for the beach too. 007, and James Bond materials © 1962-2018 Danjaq and MGM. 007 and related James Bond Trademarks, TM Danjaq. All rights reserved. www.007Store.com

Writer: Katie Meston

Today marks the release of Kenzo’s Folio 2, a multidisciplinary celebration of cultural and global identities, incorporating dance, video, and ready-to-wear pieces from the house’s La Collection Memento N°2 and Spring-Summer 2018 collections. The brand’s first Folio instalment was released last April, and saw photographer Ruth Ossai and director Akinola Davies Jr explore concepts within Nigerian youth culture. The second iteration ‘Le Renard Bleu’ explores the fabled myth of the Blue Fox, a mischievous shape shifter in East Asian folklore, with a film written and directed by Partel Oliva, documenting the spirit animal’s adventures in Tokyo. The film features an instrumental composition devised by renowned Japanese composer Midori Takada, with lyrical input provided by rising Egyptian-Iranian singer Lafawndah. Truly something to go wild over.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

A heady remix of past experiences, modern attitudes and classic styles is shaping our times. We are all cultural DJs. In fashion, sportswear is cut in fine suiting fabrics; the formality of tailoring has eased. The distinction between night and day has gone. Life is full throttle. Just last night, HUGO hosted its co-ed S/S 2019 show at Motorwerk – the original home of Berlin techno. The mood was fast. Entitled ‘Mixmasters’, the season focused on a DIY approach to dressing. Elastic drawstrings ruched elegant fabrics around the body with athletic dynamism; techno played to a house beat. Archetypal HUGO styles were reimagined with a 1990s posture. Fluoro mesh linings peeped out from beneath the hem of perforated wool suits. T-shirts carried typographic prints based on club posters plastered over the walls of Berlin. It was eclectic and energetic.

Writer: Dal Chodha

Nellie Kamras brings her family’s know-how in the leather business to sleek Swedish aesthetics for her label Stand. Although leather has been a strong focus since Kamras founded her label in 2014, it has also expanded in soft wools and colorful faux fur. For A/W 2018, Stand offers an elongated silhouette comprised of leather wrap coats and ruffled skirts. We’ll be standing tall in this dark orange leather twin-sit, featuring a belted top and a-symmetric skirt.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

St Tropez-born brand Vilebrequin has made a splash in London, with the opening of a beachwear-brimming women’s pop-up shop in Burlington Arcade. The 1.85 sq m space features an array of pieces for achieving poolside pizzazz, from fish print two-pieces to alluring cut-out swimming costumes, mesh detail bikinis to light cover-ups. This is the first time the brand’s women’s universe has been housed under one historic roof outside France, and we’ll also be making for a dive for its chic accessories, including turtle-detail water bottles and floral pouches. The Vilebrequin women’s pop up is located at 10-11 Burlington Arcade, London until the end of September.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Issey Miyake is known for its innovative, tech-driven designs, and now the Japanese label has enlisted the creative genius of Tokyo-based French architect and design practice Emmanuelle Moureaux, on a new window concept titled ‘rainbow moiré’. The installation has been rolled out across a number of stores across Asia and France, in celebration of BAO BAO ISSEY MIYAKE’s tote ‘Misty Moon’. The bag’s spliced shapes take inspiration from metal mesh 1980s furniture, and the accompanying installation features a myriad of triangles, cut out from thin layers of paper, which create a mesmerising rippling effect when viewed from different angles.

Writer: Michael Yeung

Barely a week after Ludovic de Saint Sernin presented his third collection during Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019, the burgeoning French designer has been awarded the Creative Label Prize at the annual ANDAM Fashion Awards. Sernin – who cut his teeth at Balmain – has gained recognition for his insouciant, gender fluid approach to design, constructing transparent playsuits from links of ceramic, vests and flaring trousers from lengths of fringed scarf and futuristic, tailored silhouettes. The designer’s S/S 2019 collection was inspired by the wistful sense of loss after a holiday romance. We predict a much sunnier disposition this summer.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Renowned Australia-based vintage clothing collector Octavius La Rosa, who specialises in brands including Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Walter Van Beirendonck has opened a new Sibling Architecture-designed space in Melbourne. Peppered with objects from La Rosa’s own personal collection, including a 1989 graphic rug by Edward Fields, and a 2003 Gaetano Pesce shelving unit, the space displays 100 seminal archival vintage garments. ’dot COMME Collection’ is located at 252 Swanston Street Melbourne, one level above La Rosa’s original space – which houses more everyday wear – and is well worth a trip down under.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

As a fashion capital, London is seen as a hotbed for creativity, experimentation and eccentricity. Yet, the struggle for designer’s to bridge the gap from young label to a bolstered, money-making brand is widely known. Now, in support of flourishing talent, London-based artists Something & Son have set up a pop-up shop in Belgravia, to allow young designers to debut their collections in a high end retail location, without being challenged by the threat of sky high rents. ‘50m’ allows brands to join its retail community for a small monthly fee, and on its opening roster are designers including denim aficionado Faustine Steinmetz, minimalist bag brand Alfie Douglas and jewellers Räthel & Wolf. So why not pop down to the Eccleston Yards location; ticking the box in summer shopping and the support of young talent in one go.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In September, Byredo is launching a new collection of graphically shaped bags and we turned towards the sunny Eazy silhouette. This sizeable style, which could hold anything from your laptop to beach towel, will bring visions of summer to any grey office day. It’s got us dreaming about warm days by the sea and evenings on an Italian piazza.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

 

There was a breezy Balearic flair running through Loewe’s A/W 2018 collection. Take the Madrid house’s cut-out dress, linked with coils of colourful ribbon or its slouchy leather rucksacks, both sophisticated takes on beachside silhouettes. Lucky for us mid-heatwave, the brand have launched its latest line of sunglasses, produced in collaboration with Thelios, the LVMH-owned eyewear brand. We’ve set our sights on this futuristic ‘Tyra’ style, a mask-like shape with openwork lenses. A sublime sunglasses style should you be arriving imminently in Ibiza, or merely making the most of your sun-filled garden.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

From Georgia O’Keeffe to Analia Saban, designer Rosetta Getty delves into the worlds of different artists when researching her collections. For her brand’s Pre Fall 2018 offering, Getty looked to American-Cuban performance artist Ana Mendieta. Her ‘earth body’ artworks include the Silueta Works series; which features Mendieta’s naked body shot in an open Zapotec tomb in Mexico, her body and facial features covered with flowers. This series is evoked in Getty’s colourful crochet top design. Handmade in the USA, in a limited run of 13, each piece takes 75 hours to make and is constructed using 106 individual blooms. How’s that for flower power?

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Stepping into the luxury footwear scene is New York-based brand Agent; a minimalist and timeless shoe label which works using Italian leather and handcrafted Portuguese fabrics. Its founders Terrence Williams and Joshua Fronda have over two decades of experience in the fashion indstury, and for their debut collection have showcased an elegant range of cut-out sandals and sneakers, like this sleek black trainer with an exaggerated rubber sole.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With Paris Fashion Week Men’s getting in full swing, we’ve got an amped-up affection for French fashion. What better time, then, for Mr Porter to launch ‘Vive la France’, an exclusive 147 piece capsule collection celebrating the country’s insouciant style. A host of French casualwear brands have created exclusive pieces for the launch, and we’ve got a particular fancy for this buckle strap Bleu de Chauffe backpack. Made in France using organic vegetal leather, each backpack is signed and dated by the artisan who built it. Now that’s a design language we love.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

We’ve always had a soft spot for new updates of classic silhouettes, like Browns’ second iteration of its ‘Just a t-shirt’ capsule collection, comprising graphic tees curated by the renowned retailers expert menswear buying team. Something a little tongue in cheek suits us too, and we’ll be stocking up on this design by conceptual British artist Ryan Gander, of a folded t-shirt used as the central print motif. After all, who needs one t-shirt, when you can get two for the same price?

Brazilian footwear label Alexandre Birman turns ten this year, so there’s no better time to slip into a pair of the brand’s signature sandals. Birman’s tie-detail ‘Clarita’ shoes are particularly idiosyncratic, and feature ribbons in suede, velvet and leather which snake around the ankle. ‘The flat version of this style was developed to keep the classic aesthetic of the ’’Clarita’’,  combined with contemporaneity and practicality,’ Birman says. ‘We want the shoe family to be used by every woman out there.’ With this versatile and elegant option, we’re only too happy to oblige.

 

The blue waters and white façades of Mykonos form the paradisal backdrop to Dior’s latest pop-up store. A capsule collection, exclusively designed for the boutique, will save you a visit to the local souvenir shop. This features ’j’adior mykonos’ bodysuits, beachy bracelets and bright embroidered tote bags. We’ll be leaving our spot on the sand for this nautical stripe scarf, a subtle accessory for bolstering our beachside look.

Writer: Lune Kuipers


 

We’ve got an eyes for Troubadour’s latest collection of Crayola-coloured tote bags. The versatile canvas styles are trimmed with vegetable-tanned Italian leather and to give the bold hues a real oomph, the leather has been has been immersed in liquid dye for complete colour permeation. We recommend the styles for your next trip to the beach, and should you want a daintier buttoned-up option for evening cocktails, the bag has subtle slimming side snaps.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The printed Loewe publications that creative director Jonathan Anderson has produced each season since 2014, have become as sought after as the brand’s leather animal accessories and Ibiza-inspired silhouettes. Now, for its 20th instalment, Anderson has teamed up for the second time with the artist Fumiko Imano, who is renowned for capturing photographs of herself with an imagined twin. Japanese-born Imano began creating twin collages after suffering from an identity crisis when returning to her home country after a childhood spent in Brazil. For Loewe’s A/W 2018 publication, creative-directed by regular collaborators M/M (Paris), Imano and her twin are seen frolicking in the rooms of the Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris (the location of Loewe’s catwalks shows), with model Liya Kebede. Together they hang out by futuristic telephones, pet horses and even enjoy a tinkle on the piano. With the publication limited to 1200 copies, you too might need the help of a twin to secure one.

Photography: Fumiko Imano. Writer: Laura Hawkins

In February, we celebrated the opening of Agnona’s Italian apartment-inspired boutique in Berlin. Now, the brand has opened a new outpost on London’s Albemarle Street, inspired by the industrial architecture of its original fabric mill in the Biella region north of Milan. The organic tones of the boutique evoke the natural hues found in the region, like the Ceppo di Grè flooring, a signature stone from the Milanese region of Lombardia, or the hand-crafted plaster walls designed to convey the texture of the cloud cashmere of Agnona’s scarves. Designed by Ciarmoli Queda Studio under the creative direction of Agnona’s Simon Holloway, the space is the embodiment of an elevated industrial aesthetic.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

‘What I wanted to deal with were the stories of my hometown,’ says Birmingham-born designer Osman Yousefzada of his first solo exhibition at the city’s Ikon Gallery. ‘Being Somewhere Else’, marks the first time the gallery have given the space to a non-contemporary artist, and features a series of solo commissions exploring Yousefzada’s own Muslim upbringing in Balsall Heath, and the inequality within the fashion industry through eyes of immigrants. 

‘It’s about my tradition and cultural displacement’ the designer explains of a series of installations which evoke his early home life. Like the interior of a bedroom wrapped in cellophane, a sign of his mother’s immigrant neurosis, or a walk in cupboard ‘filled with necessities which are really objects of domestic violence and pain’.

In celebration of the exhibition’s opening, Yousefzada has also curated a festival which runs from this Thursday to Sunday 17 June, a four day celebration of migration, fashion, arts and music, including Friday’s ‘Diaspora Disco’. ‘It’s based on the daytime discos of the Nineties,’ he says. ‘When I started coming of age but wasn’t allowed to go out in the evenings!’ ‘Being Somewhere Else’ is on view at the Ikon Gallery, Birmingham until 29 June.

Long time Issey Miyake collaborator Tokujin Yoshioka, the mastermind behind many of the Japanese brand’s retail spaces, from Milan to Tokyo, has designed the label’s latest Brook Street outpost in London. The sleek space, which houses its Please Please Issey Miyake, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Bao Bao Issey Miyake lines, has been designed in contrasting tones, with white walls juxtaposed against black finishings and steel powdered coating fixtures. Pleated garments and graphic bags appear to float in mid-air, and the three floor space is connected by a Bateig blue limestone staircase.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The artwork of Andy Warhol has been paramount to chief creative officer Raf Simons’ all American vision for Calvin Klein, and now The Andy Warhol Foundation for Visual Arts has launched its latest collaboration with the label; a series of pop-art self portraits featured across its Calvin Klein Jeans collection. We’ve got eyes for this dark denim jeans-and-jacket two piece, emblazoned with red and white self portrait patches. With these items in our wardrobe arsenal, we might just be inclined to a selfie too. Jeans and Classic Trucker in blue, Printed artwork: Andy Warhol, Self-Portrait, 1986
©/®/™ The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Model and entrepreneur Liya Kebede has such an eye for detail, that we invited her to judge at Wallpaper*’s Design Awards 2018. The Ethopian-born model, and the founder of Lemlem, a brand which collaborates with African weavers to create fashion and furnishings, has now teamed up with Pierre Hardy on a micro collection of bags and shoes. The styles, which include this striped clutch with tactile fringing, were all woven using Lemlem fabrics, in a beautiful blend of Ethiopian and Parisian craft.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

In its eighth participation at the annual photography festival PHotoEspaña, the Loewe Foundation presents an exhibition celebrating the photographers Peter Hujar and David Wojnarowicz, two figures renowned for capturing  subcultural New York during the 1970s and 1980s. Hujar met Wojnarowicz in 1980, and the two maintained a deep personal bond. The exhibition features over 60 original prints, and we’re taken with this image documenting another collaborative relationship: a portrait of composer John Cage and his longtime collaborator, the choreographer Merce Cunningham, seated at ease together on simple wooden chairs. ‘Peter Hujar and David Wojnarowicz,’ will be on view until 26 August 2018 at Gran Via 8, Madrid. ‘Merce Cunningham and John Cage Seated’, by Peter Hujar (1986). Image courtesy of Peter Hujar archive.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With the launch of its new ‘D to D’ bag, Brussels-based accessoires maison Delvaux has got us zoned in on one letter of the alphabet for summer. The new waterproof design, topped off with sleek carbon fiber handles, is a resistant yet chic carry all for those upcoming beach sojourns. Bayadere stripe combinations have the sunny spirit of Portuguese dancing costumes, while the subtle D-shaped handles hone in on Delvaux’s design history. What could be more d-elightful?

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

In March, we put our best foot forward with vegan shoe label Good Guys, the eco-friendly LA-based label, whose vegan cowboy boots, mules and sandals are produced in Portugal. Now in a new hat trick, the brand, founded by Marion Hanani, have collaborated with French sailor hat label Beton Ciré on a cotton hat with a colourful vegan suede back strap. The ‘Miki’ style also boasts a cheeky enamel pin designed by artist and musician Herman Dune. Hat’s off to that!

Photographer. Gayle Newman Jarrett. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Marni has gone pop for S/S 2018, with its latest range of ‘Pop’ sunglasses. The retro styles, whose curving ovular frames have a touch of vintage aviation goggle, are created using two horizontal sections of acetate, a splice of transparent and solid colour. We’re particularly taken with this tortoiseshell and crystal yellow combination, and we’ll be coveting the style all summer.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

WallpaperSTORE* has souped up its interiors offering with Gucci Décor’s sumptuous range of furnishings. The interiors line, which was founded by the Italian brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele in 2015, reflects Michele’s multifarious approach to design; incorporating a plethora of patterns, colours and contexts, into a ecclectic range which includes tiger face print wallpaper, jacquard cushions and velvet-upholstered chairs. We’re dining out on this range of tableware, featuring Gucci Décor’s Herbarium print, a vintage-inspired green Toile de Jouy pattern, boasting cherry branches, leaves and flowers. What better way to bring your dining room into bloom?

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

Shoppers are fast becoming aware of the importance of sustainability within manufacturing supply chains. Thankfully, Volga Linen, the family run British company, which specialises in a carefully considered range of table and ben linen, curtains and robes; uses linen made from 100 per-cent woven flax, a fibre with excellent ecological credentials. Flax requires less pesticides and fertilisers than other crops and every part of the plant is used for various purposes, resulting in less manufacturing waste. So why not relax guilt-free in this open weave Volga sauna robe, finished with delicate hem stitch detailing. Linen itself becomes softer and more absorbent over time, making this piece a wise choice for both the ecological and fashion conscious.

Writer: Katie Meston

There’s a spatial serenity to Forte Forte’s debut store in Milan. The airy Brera-based boutique features a sublime blend of materials, from travertine marble to coloured mosaic. For subtle shimmer, the space is populated with brass fixtures, and features an intimate selection of objects amassed on founder Giada Forte’s extensive travels: shells and corals, glass test tubes founded in an LA market, and a French plaster bust of Venus. A boutique which boasts of personal memories and escapades, a trip to the store will make adventure for you too.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In short film ‘Painting The Dress’ we are given a closer look at the work process of burgeoning fashion designer Xuzhi Chen. Shot in his studio in Shanghai, the video documents the process of the designer working on the hand-painted rainproof trenchcoats that are part of his eponymous brand’s A/W 2018 collection. ‘I’d wanted to bring the brush stroke effect to the garments in order to respond to the artistic inspiration of this season: Jane Morris, the celebrated muse of the Pre-Raphaelite art movement,’ Chen explains. Directed and edited by Song Huang, cinematography by Kaiyuan Xiao, music ‘Secret Dream’ by Luke Atencio, special Thanks to CHENFENG Group.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

David Raffoul and Nicolas Moussallem, founders of the Lebanese design studio david/nicolas are renowned for their retrofuturistic aesthetic, one we’re so taken with that its Triangoli marble vase featured as part of Best Drawing Room in Wallpaper*’s Design Awards 2018. The duo were also enlisted to design lingerie specialist Carine Gilson’s new flagship store in Brussels. The space, made up of contrasting design elements, like titanium travertine and soft carpets, also features intricate wing shape finishes which nod to Gilson’s affinity for birds of paradise. These graphic feather-like door handles have got us in a particular flutter.

Photography: Frederik Vercruysse. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Pierre Hardy partners up with French eyewear designer Hervé Domar for a graphic collection of unisex glasses. The five lightweight models have been named on the basis of their ‘personality’, from Kim — the oversized style, who enjoys sitting on a terrace overlooking the Riviera, to Lee — the nostalgic sort, who scribbles down a novel inside the Beverly Hills Hotel. The frames are hand-made in the Eastern region of Jura and sculpted from cellulose acetate, each finished in five colourways with matching Italian graduated lenses, whilst the interior of the frame reveals Hardy’s signature cube print. It gives a whole new perspective to personalising your look, and we’re excited to meet them.

Writer: Katie Meston

Pull up your socks, because Saint Laurent is the mood to take you back to school. The brand’s latest Book Bag – available to pre-order online – has all the traits of a chic monogrammed satchel, and while it’s newest design comes in racy leopard print or subtle black suede, we’ll be opting for this caramel toned number, it’s hues recalling the Saharienne aesthetic of Yves Saint Laurent himself.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For Craig Green’s S/S 2018 catwalk show, the designer displayed a fascination for fabrications, his surf’s up-inspired collection featuring nipped in scuba tops, capes resembling beach mats and a debut line of Japanese selvedge denim. For longtime female Green fans, the brand’s denim designs - straight-legged jeans and vests with its signature porthole motif - will also be available in dedicated women’s sizes. Talk about good jeans.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

It’s believed that staple brand Sunspel derives its name from the term ‘sunny spell’, albeit originating from the not-so-sunny England. However, with the summer months fast approaching, the Nottingham-based label has launched its latest Beachwear collection, compromising of t-shirts, polo shirts and hooded sweatshirts reinvented in organic Imabari towelling (Sunspel’s vicuña of towels, known for its high absorbency and extreme softness). The brand have also launched new sunglasses styles, in four colour ways, which are handmade in a small family-run factory in Italy using the highest quality acetate. Sunspel’s natural affinity to the warmer seasons make these shades an ideal pairing for the weather, and, a symbol of optimism for British summertime.

Writer: Katie Meston

Jonathan Anderson has announced not one but three winners of his eponymous label’s Your Picture/ Our Future competition. The prize, which offers image makers the chance to shoot the brand’s next advertising campaign, has been secured by a trio of photographers: the UK’s Julie Greve (pictured), Russia’s Yelena Beletskaya, and the USA’s Simons Finnerty. ‘Seeing all this talent come all together in this exhibition was very powerful, making it impossible to choose one winner,’ Anderson says of the today’s winners announcement. ‘As such, we will have three photographers that will work on the same brief and campaign coming to you next summer.’ Time to set your countdown timer!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

It’s near impossible to pick our favourite launch or installation from Dover Street Market London’s Open House, held in celebration of Photo London; featuring Undercover’s collaboration with Cindy Sherman, Gucci’s latest limited edition publication Disturbia, Kim Jones’ football-inspired collaboration with Nike, or Ana Khouri’s eye-catching pearl ear cuffs. Ever keeping our finger on the pulse for high calibre print content, we’re taken with this limited edition Electa catalogue, feauturing images from Rick Owen’s retrospective exhibition ’Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman’. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

British eyewear brand Cubitts have teamed up with graphic designer Leif Podhajsky on a limited edition run of sunglasses. Appearing in two eye catching colourways, the round acetate frames are reminiscent of those wore by musicians in the early Nineties. Known for his psychedelia-inspired style, Leif has also designed a unique print that will appear on cleaning cloths that accompany the frames.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Paul Andrew’s debut collection as women’s creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo was awash with tactile and luxurious fabrications - from supple leather to exotic silk foulards. Now, Andrew has launched his first handbag design for the house, a double-handled creation that demonstrates both practicality and polish, crafted from leather, crocodile and ostrich. Andrew’s debut A/W 2018 collection looked to the hues in the renowned rainbow wedge which Ferragamo designed for Judy Garland in 1938. His latest design is one not just destined for your wardorbe, but also for the house’s treasured archives.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Madrid-based shoe brand Goya, has put a spring into our step with these adaptations of traditional Menorquina sandals. The chunky soled sandals come in a variety of fabrics and colours and are made by artisans in Alicante using premium leather and materials. We can’t wait to add a pair of these to our summer wardrobe, bringing with them a pinch of Hispanic flare and style. Olé!

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

In our June 2018 issue (W*213), writer Lou Stoppard dissected the drop culture of Supreme, the New York skate label which releases its coveted new products on a Thursday, to hoards of fans waiting online and outside its stores. On May 16, Supreme sees a new kind of drop, with Artcurial’s first dedicated auction to the skate wear behemoth. The auction celebrates the relationship between Supreme and a host of contemporary art, fashion and design leaders, and amongst the 150 lots, we’ll be bidding on Lot 50, an original artwork of Barbara Kruger’s 1987 ’I Shop Therefore I am’ photo-based collage. Last year, Kruger staged a fake pop up shop in New York - in fact a performance art piece named ’(Untitled) The Drop’, seen as a response to the similarities between the Futura typography and bold use of red used in her renowned arworks, and the renowned Supreme logo.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Hot off the heels of its debut at the Triennale di Milano, Rick Owens’ retrospective ‘Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman’ makes its American debut at Barneys New York’s Madison Avenue flagship. In celebration of the designer’s 24-year career and his progression as an artist, the installation showcases Owens’ knack for innovation and individuality with over 20 garments, furniture, sketches, prototypes and video art. 

Spread over the boutique’s third and fourth floors and on view until 3rd June, the exhibition features architectural elements specially recreated by Barneys to suit the space, along with a recreation of Owens’ ‘earth work’ sculpture that takes over all four windows on Madison Avenue. What’s more, visitors to Barneys’ downtown space will be able to enjoy a burger designed by Owens featuring locally sourced, animal welfare-approved beef and cheese, and finished with an edible ribbon on the burger and fries and a Rick Owens’ logo branded on the bun – all part of the designer burger series at Fred’s, the store’s in-house eatery.

Writer: Pei-Ru Keh

Owning a genuine Warhol might be somewhat out of reach for most people, but thanks to its ongoing partnership with The Andy Warhol Foundation for Visual Arts, Calvin Klein is making the impossible possible. The American label’s Madison Avenue boutique is currently awash with iconic Warhol imagery, thanks to a special installation, on view until 20 June, that celebrates the launch of Calvin Klein’s new home collection that also features Warhol’s artwork. Ranging from limited edition Pendleton blankets to colourful Fiestaware dinnerware and Calvin Klein’s own accessories, bandanas and handbags featuring placement screenprints of Warhol’s photographs, it’s clear that the artist’s visionary creative spirit is still alive and well. Featuring artwork by Andy Warhol ©/®/™ The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc.; ™ Hopper Goods, LLC

Writer: Pei-Ru Keh

Browns is no stranger to an eye-catching collaboration, and now the London-based retail behemoth has unveiled its latest hook up with Off-White. The brand’s renowned co-founder Virgil Abloh has reworked Off-White’s most essential styles and stamps (think logo branding and tongue in cheek typography), with a variety of cuts, colours and fastenings. Demonstrating real flower power is this oversized workwear jacket with a hand-drawn floral pattern, which has been designed exclusively for Browns. A sublime symbol of a collaboration coming into bloom.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In our April issue (W*229), we peeked inside Armani’s revamped London store, the 1,000 sq m retail space which houses both its fashion and interiors collections. The boutique is lined with silk wall coverings, and it was textures that caught our eye in the brand’s latest Giorgio Armani x Armani Casa capsule collection - one boasting silk pyjamas, velvet slippers and washbags. Perfect pieces for lounging at home, or for luxuriating in a hotel in style.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For those taken with brick tones, terracotta and cinnamon velvet, LCD’s third outpost in downtown LA is your rusty hued retail heaven. The boutique - which began simply as an online space in 2012 - is home to a diverse range of brands, from Alyx to Loq, curated by its founder Geraldine Chung. Display cabinets come lined with tactile fabrics, while changing rooms hang with heavy curtains. What a material world.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With the weekend almost in full swing, what better time to swoon over a new distinctive set of travel essentials - the result of a limited edition collaboration between french fashion house Longchamp and Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver. The designer has emblazoned garment bags, backpacks and Longchamp’s renowned Le Pliage® style with bold typography, and experimented with a colour palette of black, scarlet and pastel pink. Whoever said packing for a trip away had to be a chore?

Writer: Laura Hawkins

It’s the year of the polo shirt for Lacoste. Last month, the French label reimagined its idiosyncratic crococide logo, emblazoning its polo shirts with emblems of endangered animals, from the Sumatran Tiger to the Gulf of California porpoise in collaboration with Save our Species. Now, in celebration of its milestone 85th anniversary, Lacoste has reissued archive polo shirts styles, from forties jersey knits to eighties striped cotton piqué shapes, inspired by sailor’s tops. With a soft spot for a graphic detail, we’ve got our eye on this style from the noughties, one featuring a distinctive zig-zag line, sure to get heads turning one or off the tennis courts. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Marni seamlessly merges fashion and art this summer in a collaboration with revered American painter David Salle. Known for his paintings of mundane objects layered with lounging figures, two works by the artist have been adapted into prints that effortlessly flow over languid silk dresses, long robe-like coats and disheveled bustier tops, not ot mention this versatile t-shirt. Talk about state of the art.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Boss has put its best foot forward as part of its ongoing sustainability programme, with the launch a pair of 100% vegan trainers. Boss fans are encouraged to pound the pavements in the sleek new designs, which in shades of brown and blue, boast a recycled TPU sole, organic cotton laces and an upper constructed from Piñatex®, a natural material made from pineapple leaf fibers, which are harvested as a result of existing agricultural output. Not only are the shoe’s uppers coloured using plant-based dyes, they come packaged in biodegradable paper. Green thinking, both inside and outside the box.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

In February, Nanushka founder Sandra Sandor made moves to Manhattan, showing her brand’s A/W 2018 presentation as part of New York Fashion Week. But for the over a decade old brand’s recent retail expansion, Sandor decided to set up shop with a new flagship store in Bécsi utca, the heart of the brand’s home city Budapest. Designed by architectural practice URBAStudios, the 400 sq m space feels more intimate than a traditional store. Shoppers can browse through the latest collections in casual comfort, surrounded by Sandor’s personal archives of eclectic furniture, ceramics and magazine archives, with the option to stop for a coffee in the bespoke café. Now that’s what we call home comfort.

Writer: Katie Meston

The summer collection of Hillier Bartley brings together nighttime-inspired garments and soft kimonos with oversized shirts and classic menswear stripes. The erotic undertone that runs through the collection inspired a series of t-shirts featuring surreal collage of snakes, glossy horses and body limbs in latex. Executed in soft tones, the garments channel the subversive romance that Hillier Bartley does so well. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers
 

Hera Seoul Fashion Week concluded last month in usual, sprightly style. Its designers showed energetic, youthful clothes to a transnational crowd including fixed front-row guest, buyer Andreas Murkudis. This weekend an exhibition of ten emerging Korean fashion designers will open at his eponymous store on Potsdamer Straße in Berlin. Demi-couture menswear by Hanchul Lee will be displayed in a specially built bamboo structure alongside pieces from the hyper collaborative streetwear label D-ANTIDOTE and the buzzy, 2017 LVMH Prize shortlisted duo Blindness, as part of Gallery Weekend Berlin 2018. From the unfurling of time-honoured gender roles to bold innovations with cut – K-fashion has guts: ‘It’s young and it has a spark of irony but mostly you can feel the joy of clothing and of self-expression in general,’ Murkudis says. ‘It has an insane lightness that infects you…a genuineness with a charming naivety. There is no fear to try things differently.’

Photography: Ana Santl. Writer: Dal Chodha

With the 2018 edition of Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography in full swing, what better time to delve into the archive of French Riviera-born swimwear specialists Vilebrequin, who have been a partner of the esteemed festival since 2014. Vilebrequin’s latest short silhouette swimsuits draw on cut-out designs worn by revellers at the famed Villa Noailles — the modernist location of the festival — in the 1930’s. So whether your summering on the French-Riviera or simply sunning yourself in private, we suggest you try this avant-garde option out for size.

Pictured, Piscine Villa Noailles Archives, 1931. Writer: Laura Hawkins

German-born designer Tomas Maier has announced his support for the Judd Foundation’s ’15 x 105 x 15’ exhibition in New York. The move reinforces Maier’s commitment to the creative arts and his eponymous brand’s connection to the city, where his label’s flagship store is based. The exhibition will display extruded metal works by American minimalist artist Donald Judd. Designed as a division of symmetrical space, the full series of twelve anodised aluminium works will be presented on both the walls and floors of the Downtown Manhattan space, a configuration not previously realised.
’15 x 105 x 15’ is on view at 101 Spring Street until July 28.

Pictured, Untitled, 1991, by Donald Judd. 15 x 105 z 15cm (5 7/8 x 41 3/8 x 5 7/8 in)
63 3/4 x 63 3/4 inches (162 x 162 cm) Image © Judd Foundation. Donald Judd Art © Judd Foundation / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York. 
Writer: Katie Meston

Welcome to the House of Osman. After several years in London’s Waterloo, Osman Yousefzada has re-located to a townhouse on Percy street. The location functions as the brand’s first flagship store and also houses the office and atelier for private clients. In a lifestyle-focused foray, it’s not just Osman’s garments that are available for purchase. The displayed art, which includes works by the likes of Prem Sahib and Anthea Hamilton, is also available to buy, and the on-site rare finds bookshop offers several first editions of James Bond books. We already feel at home.

Photography: Benjamin Whitley. Writer: Lune Kuipers

Since 2011, LA-based bag makers Building Block have focused its timeless designs on the essential rather than the excessive. Now, in collaboration The Museum of Contemporary Art in LA, the brand has created two travel accessory styles to be sold exclusively at the museum. The designs stick to the brand’s minimalist roots, an aesthetic which goes hand-in-hand with the post 1940’s art exhibited at the museum. Made with vegetable tanned leather, the accessories are finished in a subtle tan colour that will develop over time. Time to book a spontaneous trip away.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

For Comme des Garçons Homme Plus’ S/S 2018 offerring, Rei Kawakubo’s designs danced to a disco beat, with a collection presented against a colourful spotlit dance floor, a Frederic Sanchez-mixed soundtrack and an amalgam of glittering wigs. Now, the collection has made moves to Dover Street Market in London. Glittering bomber jackets, shimmering baggy shorts and cartoonish animal print waistcoats have been positioned as part of a new installation, on mannequins in various stages of dance. In true disco style, the setup has been completed with a series of glowing neon tubes, which surround the mannequins in swathes of light. With the brand’s prismatic installation on display until 8 May, it’s time to pop on your dancing shoes and shimmy down to the store.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Peruvian fashion brand Mozh Mozh focuses its aesthetic attention to form and detail, reworking traditional designs to suit a contemporary lifestyle. Designer Mozhdeh Matin, works with groups of women across the country who specialise in weaving and knitting techniques, to create designs that are unique interpretations of traditional work. The fabrication of the designs utilises solely naturally and indigenously sourced dyes and fibres, which emphasises the social and environmental consciousness of the brand. For spring, we’re taken with this tactile fringed ensemble, paired with a fluffy bag, in a sugary shade of lilac.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

 

Today, Loewe releases its second collaboration with Paula’s Boutique — a tribute to Armin Heinemann’s renowned Balearic store, and the sunkissed epitome of Seventies bohemian glamour. The collection translates Paula’s best-selling archive prints into a multitude of bohemian pieces, including logo printed tote bags, t-shirts, hoodies and beach accessories, all boasting enticing colours and seascapes. A real smash hit are these over new logo ball paddles — the perfect beachtime accessory. Fancy a game?

Writer: Katie Meston

Introducing East London brand I AND ME, an androgynous label focusing on using the finest fabrications. The upcoming ’Las Casas’ collection features Selvedge linen from Italy’s own Blue Selvedge mill, imbuing the collection with the highest quality textile. The label’s founder, Jessica Gebhart — who traded fast high street fashion for her thoughtful line — plays on the traditional denim backbone of the brand. ‘There’s a real freedom to the selvedge linen pieces, the fabric is raw and beautifully textured; they slip on and off the body effortlessly and only get better with age, when worn-in and worked-in; it’s a dream fabric that is central to what the new collection is all about; freedom of expression, tactility, and creativity.’ she says. Not only does I AND ME produce an exceptional pair of oversized jeans or the perfect waistcoat, the label also produce vases, pots, plinths and plates.

Writer: Katie Meston

Italian fashion house Fratelli Rossetti has collaborated with Nepalese bespoke carpet brand cc-tapis to present ‘Stripes under your feet’, as part of Salone del Mobile 2018. Alongside bespoke rugs, to be displayed in the Fratelli Rossetti Montenapoleone store, two special edition loafers share the same colour palette; white is blended with mauve, pink and black to create striped effects. If you’re lucky enough to be at this year’s Salone, put on your dancing shoes — or striped loafers, of course — to the DJ and wine tasting event celebrating the collection this evening.

Writer: Katie Meston

We delighted in Paul Surridge’s debut collection for Roberto Cavalli, so much so that we featured the creative director in our House Swap feature of our March Style Special issue. Now, as part of Salone del Mobile 2018, Surridge is set to debut his first interiors capsule for the Italian house. We were lucky to get a sneak preview of his designs, and we’ve got eyes for these hand-manufactured swirling and knobbly crystal vases, produced by Colle di Val d’Elsa-based crystal specialists Arnolfo di Cambio. With the rest of Cavalli’s homeware collection being showcased tomorrow, we can’t wait to see what else we’ll add to our wishlist.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Yesterday evening, a crowd gathered in London’s Whitechapel Gallery to hear the announcement of the winner of 2018’s Max Mara Art Prize for Women. Running since 2015, the prize offers a unique chance for UK-based female artists to have the gift of time to develop their practice. The prize comprises of a six month Italian residency which fuels an ambitious new project to be presented in major solo exhibitions at the Whitechapel Gallery and the Collezione Maramotti in Italy.

British-Jamaican artist Helen Cammock has walked away with this year’s prize. Cammock, who works across multiple medias, focuses her practice on storytelling and thus carefully pieces together neglected blanks in written history. Her skill for oral collage enables her to beautifully interrogate these subject matters, making way for impressive works of art both visually and acoustically. Her Italian tour proposes to question the expression of lament in Italian culture and society, paying particular attention to its representation in operatic music. We look forward to seeing Cammock’s development in 2019, when she is set to exhibit her work made during this period. Video still from ’There’s a Hole in The Sky Part I 2016’, by Helen Cammock. Courtesy of Helen Cammock

Writer: Rosanna Bruce


 

For S/S 2018, Rosetta Getty looked to the work of Georgia O’Keefe, with a collection featured scooping architectural shapes, billowing silhouettes and organic painterly prints. The New-York based designer was also fascinated by the sensual and candid nude portraits that O’Keefe’s photographer husband Alfred Stieglitz shot of her. As part of Getty’s offering the designer has printed a selection of Steiglitz’s shots onto a series of shirts and t-shirts. Talk about bare essentials.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Karl Lagerfeld has been at the creative helm of Fendi for over fifty years, and his tenure includes the creation of the Italian house’s famed ’FF’ logo, one created in 1965. Now, in collaboration with Net-A-Porter, Fendi has launched a 37-piece capsule collection which celebrates the history of the house’s  logo, and includes new machinations of the form- a squarer graphic, and the introduction of a black and white colourway. Just our type is this elegant black and white shoulder bag, featuring circular Fendi logo hardware, white leather piping and a versatile detachable shoulder strap.

Writer: Laura Hawkins 

We’ve kept a keen eye on Fondazione Furla’s roll out of art focused events and installations since the Italian accessories brand launched ’Time after Time Space after Space’ in September last year. The artistic series, produced in collaboration with the Museo del Novecento in Milan, celebrates Italian artistry, and imagine our delight that this month Furla is showcasing a piece by Wallpaper* Guest Editor Christian Marclay. ‘We decided to include a key artist like Christian Marclay because he is a leading figure in the specific sphere of performance practice related to music. He began interweaving performance, sound, and visual art in the late 1970s with a unique, innovative approach and since then has inspired an entire generation of musicians and artists, says Bruna Roccasalva, artistic director of Fondazione Furla. We couldn’t agree more.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Rodeo style was a recurring theme on the A/W 2018 catwalks, with Western boots the only shoe of choice for making a well-heeled entrance come autumn. But Antwerp-based label AF Vandevorst has always had an inclination for a pointed toe and curving heel. It’s signature shoe style, complete with the brand’s embroidered red cross logo, and a tough motorcross-inspired aesthetic, is an authentic option for A/W 2018.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In 2014, Mahabis offered a reinterpretation of the classic slipper, with one which comes with a handy detachable sole. The British brand’s slippers, which have always been available in a Scandinavian grey, are now refreshed in a navy range that features 7 different sole colours. From blue, perhaps for Monday to a bright sunny yellow for the weekend. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers

 

New York-based shoemaker Gray Matters has brought a little artistic licensing to its latest collection. The brand’s signature designs have always played with sculptural heels, however its latest collection utilises a trompe-l’œil effect to create heels that appear to be variants of natural stones. With the body of the shoes made from fine Italian leather and the heels crafted by a selection of sculptors and painters, you’ll be left walking on true works of art.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

 

‘We’re obsessed with creating the perfect trousers,’ says Clare Hornby, founder of ME+EM, a brand  rapidly expanding its retail footprint across London. ’We’re obsessed with creating the perfect trouser. We spend an inordinate amount of time perfecting their cut, and press and customers alike have really taken note. We even fit each style on three different models with different body shapes to achieve the most flattering fit.’ Among the label’s cotton terry trackpants and pinstripe trousers, we’ve been hard pressed to pick our favourite style - but these cropped jeans are our white knight of the season. ‘We’ve made this style particularly interesting by finishing it with tobacco stitching that subtly breaks up the white’ Hornby says. ‘The wide-leg crop cut is one of our signature blocks, and we’ve gone so far as to give the hems a raw edge so that those with shorter legs can easily shorten these if they need to.’

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The fashion industry is taking great strokes in supporting ways to reduce plastic waste deposited into our oceans, from Ellen MacArthur and Stella McCartney ‘A New Textiles Economy’ report, to Adidas Originals’ continued collaboration with Parley for the Oceans. Gant’s latest ’Beacons’ project features a range of men’s and women’s shirt styles which are created from Seaqual, fibres containing upcycled ocean plastic. Now that’s a sea change.

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

This season the Sophie Hulme studio set a sustainable challenge. Called The Project, the initiative will be an ongoing endeavor to reduce pre-consumer waste. The first capsule collection is made of spare skins from previous collections found in the studio’s leather archive. The outcome is a brightly color blocked capsule collection of eight signature Sophie Hulme styles, which are available online, and from the brand’s Burlington Arcade boutique in London.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

London label Mih is credited with bringing the seductive and bohemian flare silhouette to Europe in the early seventies. It’s a style the label are celebrating for spring in its resurrection of its archive ‘Marrakesh’ style, which features as part of a capsule collection, and boasts the curving flare shape as a jean and an alluring cut off short. We’ve dug a little deeper into the brand’s past, sifting through its archive in search of early images from its groundbreaking era. Particularly jean-ius is this retro shop front, complete with funky typography, rainbow furnishings and fantastically flaring indigo jeans on display.

Photography: Mih Jeans Archive. Writer: Laura Hawkins

We’ve got a soft spot for delicately quilted accessories, and for spring, we’ve already set our sights on the graphic leather details of Saint Laurent’s Jamie Bag. There’s a mathematical élan to the bag’s triangular leather quilting, and the style scores added points for its versatile lengthening strap, its selection of internal compartments, and soft grosgrain lining. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Dior delights in updating its Lady Dior bag; collaborating with a host of artists and creatives who reinterpret the iconic quilting and golden ringed handles of the silhouette with new patterns and embellishments. Now, as part of Art Basel Hong Kong 2018, the Parisian maison has celebrated the mastery behind these designs with a new exhibition. We’re flying high over this creation by Hong Kong-based Kum Chi Keung, an artist renowned for experimenting with birdcages, reimagining them as giant wooden fruits or using them as metaphors for the human condition. This ‘Lady Bird’ design sees the Lady Dior bag transformed into the nude body of a bird, its topstitched cannage pattern bringing a new form to feathers, and its wooden wings outstretched ready to take flight. ‘Lady Dior As Seen By’ is on display until 31 March on the level 3 concourse of the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The elongated one story building that houses Acne Studios’ latest West Hollywood flagship store is filled with an acidic pale yellow hue that glows out of ribbon windows, channelling the appearance of an Ed Ruscha painting. Daniel Silver’s sculptural installation is the focal point of the new Melrose Avenue store, consisting of abstracted shapes cut out from double-faced wool cashmere and hung over an aluminium frame. It also doubles up as central changing room. Circular light fixtures set into a corrugated ceiling by Benoit Lalloz, and slab-like metallic seating by Max Lamb also fill the vast space, keeping the interiors, much like the brand, as cool as the city of angels itself.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

It’s no surprise that London-based bag label Innis has held its latest Salon Privé at the Lyndsey Ingram Gallery in Mayfair. The brand, which launched in 2015, is known for its artfully constructed bags, which are handcrafted in Italy, and feature solid brass hardware details, and in a nod to typography, a handle which resembles a curving seriffed ‘I’. We’ll be placing an order for this ‘Tutti Tote’, its classic navy and white colour scheme offset with a surprising bubblegum pink bag lining. Innis’ Salon Privé is open until 28 March, to book an appointment email hello@innis.london

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Last week, Turner Prize nominee Anthea Hamilton unveiled her immersive installation ‘The Squash’, created as part of the annual Tate Britain Commission, which sees contemporary artists create an artwork which responds to the space enclosed in its Duveen Galleries. Hamilton was inspired by a lost image of a squash, and erected a minimalist space constructed using 7,000 white floor tiles, in which a performer will dance inside in a surreal squash costume for the next six months. Hamilton’s inspiration also resulted in a fruitful collaboration with Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson, who designed seventies-inspired costumes for the exhibition, crafted from hand painted leather and printed silk, and completed with bulbous squash masks. Here, we reveal an image of a striped squash head seen during the first fitting of the costumes - a symbol of a bountiful collaboration that also nods to Anderson’s love of organic forms and craft.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Since 2011, Miu Miu has created 15 enlightening short films, designed not just to consider the role of fashion within society, but the multifaceted nature of femininity and the varying physicality of the women that star in its films. The most recent film in ‘Women’s Tales’ is Hello Apartment, a short which marks the directorial debut of Dakota Fanning, and charts the memories of a woman living in a Brooklyn apartment. In celebration of the series, Miu Miu has launched an edition of t-shirts, commemorating each cinematic release. We’ll be donnig the style that alludes to the ninth film - De Djess by Alice Rohrwacher, a dynamic and unusual story, starring nuns, maids and paparazzi, which tells the twinkling tale of a sequinned halter neck dress.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

There’s an off kilter élan to Marine Serre’s design aesthetic - the burgeoning Parisian designer and LVMH winner - whose designs include dresses with sporty scuba sleeves and couture-like puffball gowns with swimming costume straps. Serre has adopted an equally unusual approach to her latest installation on the ground floor of Dover Street Market London, which evokes a makeshift storage space, complete with cardboard boxes with branded packaging tape, bright strip lighting, and clothing hung from stark metal scaffolding. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

For a second time Tull Price of footwear brand Feit, and Faye and Erica Toogood have brought their crafts together. Feit for Toogood // Toogood for Feit Series 2 presents two styles, the Suede Artist boot and Suede Artist shoe. Inspired by the original desert boot, the unisex styles are hand stitched and a ‘paper bag’ effect is created when the shoes are laced up. We’re certainly blown away!

Photography: Tom Johnson. Writer: Lune Kuipers

Earlier this month, we delighted at the bed-linen creations of Swedish brand Magniberg. Imagine our delight then, to learn that the label has teamed up with one of our other hotly tipped Scandinavian brands- Copenhagen based fashion label Ganni. The brand’s summer dresses and sporty silhouettes are already W* wardrobe fixtures, and now Ganni have teamed up with Magniberg on its first denim line - a range of cropped jackets and wide legged jeans in a spectrum of colours. The line launches at the end of the week exclusively on Net-a-porter, and we guarantee you won’t sleep well until they’re in your shopping basket.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Lanvin creative director Olivier Lapidus had a sweet tooth for S/S 2018, a persuasion embodied in this versatile ’Le Toffee’ bag. The style also nods to fashion’s current penchant for branding, with the Lanvin logo laser cut into the body of this everyday silhouette, one topped off with a sporty canvas strap. What could be sweeter?

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Going from the slopes to the seaside for their second collaboration, Au Jour Le Jour for Colmar present its latest S/S 2018 collection. Titled, ‘The Summer of Memories’, pieces feature retro classics such as side-stripe tracksuits, light weight wind-runners, and bold print t-shirts evoking the marina lifestyle. An ode to the ocean, pieces are embellished with sea creature patches, like jellyfish, turtles and goldfish for example — also seen on the mini dresses and skirts printed with dinky crabs. A great catch for the millennials hoping to hit the deck in style this summer.

Writer: Katie Meston

Begg & Co has been known for its expertise in woven textiles for over a century. Based on the South-West coast of Scotland in Ayrshire, the company uses ecologically sourced yarns, which are woven into scarves and blankets using a range of weaving techniques combining modern technologies with traditional mill machinery. This washed travel blanket is made of 100% woven cashmere and can be used as an oversized scarf or blanket. Available in five colour ways, the textile includes a graphic stripe spanning from one end to the other, and makes the perfect versatile accessory for the ever-changing weather of 2018!

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

 

This Pringle of Scotland jumper, featuring a seaside landscape intarsia, takes us back to the early 1900s, to times of locomotives heading towards scenic coastal towns. A 1920s postcard from the Isle of Skye inspired the print, which gives a gentle nod to the landscape designs found in the archive of the brand. We can’t wait until the weather allows for a trip to the coast. We might even take the train. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Last June, we delighted at the newly launched retail experience of 24 Sèvres, the  LVMH-owned e-commerce venture designed to bring the joy of shopping in-store to the web. We’ll be doing more than window shopping the online destination’s latest launch - 24 Sèvres has become the first worldwide distributor of Céline, and the French house’s leather goods, ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes are now available to purchase in over 80 countries. In celebration of the launch, 24 Sèvres has teamed up with Timothée Elkaim to lens an exclusive Céline capsule collection, which includes this summer-ready pleated skirt and a pair of heeled derby shoes in mineral blue lambskin.

Photography: Timothée Elkaim. Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

A lean limb is a sublime accoutrement to the streamlined evening silhouettes that London-based designer Emilia Wickstead is renowned for. Alongside delicate floral prints and feminine shades, Wickstead is also noted for the unusual shapes she brings to her designs, and in her latest collaboration with Notting Hill-based activewear specialists Bodyism, we’ve been drawn to this elegant all in one. Boasting short sleeves, a t-shirt collar and a contouring silhouette, we’ll be sporting the playsuit, before changing into one of Wickstead’s puff ball or bow detail party shapes from her springtime collection.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Raincoat experts Stutterheim have partnered up with Slovakian footwear brand Novesta, to create the perfect waterproof booties to accompany their coats. Made using natural rubber with a 100% cotton inner lining, the unisex boots come with a matte black body and three different coloured sole options. Bring on the April showers!

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

When searching for some weekend reading material, we’re counting our blessings over the latest COS Magazine. Launching in store and online tomorrow, the brand’s latest publication has a serene ‘landscape’ theme, and we’ll be unwinding with the pages of its ‘COS Yoga’ shoot, featuring a range of poses from Bridge to Child’s Pose, performed in the label’s bright knits and graphic cuts. What better way to feel enlightened?

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

With the Beast in the East behind us, we’re casting our minds forward to our beachtime wardrobes. Enter Orlebar Brown’s ‘Summer Sport’ capsule collection, a sublime blend of performance finishes and poolside silhouettes, that will take you seamlessly from workout to cocktail o’ clock. Come holiday time, we’ll be packing this polo shirt, which is constructed from a bio-ceramic fabric to help the body recover quickly post workout by reflecting far infrared radiation. What a winner.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Innovative Japanese label Issey Miyake has opened its first retail outpost in the Middle East. Its minimalist and pared-back 115m2 space on the ground floor of the Dubai Mall has been designed by Olivier Douillet Architecte and Totem + Studio London. The brand’s signature Pleats Please Issey Miyake, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Bao Bao Issey Miyake collections are housed within a space encased with curving contours of glass, and a curving back rail cut from unique Terrazzo, which features speckles of green glass and gold. These tones evoke the kaleidoscopic colours intrinsic to the brand’s garments, which are reflected in the boutique’s pristine surfaces. Further emphasis is added by he store’s white surfaces, populated with translucent Perspex furniture.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

From the huge amount of water used in denim production, to the shocking levels of microfibres being leaked into our oceans, the impact of the fashion industry on our planet has never been more potent. Now in its Save our Species partnership with the Union for Conservation of Nature, Lacoste is looking to the planet’s endangered species, with a series of limited edition polo shirts which have swapped the French tennis brand’s renowned crocodile logo with motifs of endangered species, like the Javan Rhino, the Sumatran Tiger and the Kakapo Parrot. Time to walk on the wild side.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

During Paris Fashion Week, Nike unveiled its ‘Unlaced’ project, a new way of thinking about sneakers for women, culminating in a series of unique releases, global and city-focused curations and expanded sizing of its men’s offering. As part of this initiative, Nike has released Off-White’s much coveted Nike Air Jordan 1 style in women’s sizes, styles we’ll be getting our kicks over for spring.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With the Beast in the East in full swing, we’ve got a vested interest in Woolrich’s protective Military Vest. Constructed from laminated cotton twill, this layering essential is available in elegant black and white igloo, and is a high-tech layering essential for those sub-zero city temperatures.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Ørgreen Optics, a Copenhagen-based brand have specialised in optical design since 1997, designing in Denmark and crafting in Japan with the best ateliers who use Japanese titanium to make eyewear that is both elegant and functional. Developing its relationship with Japan further, Ørgreen have teamed up with Yuniku, a 3D printing specialist, to create eyewear that is tailor-designed to fit any face and lifestyle. With the use of a facial scanning system, exactly the right frames and lenses are selected and outputted using 3D printing technology, creating bespoke eyewear perfect for each individual wearer.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce


 

We wondered at the delights of Agnona’s latest A/W 2018 collection, so imagine our joy at hearing that the brand has opened the doors of its Italian apartment-inspired store in Berlin. Located on Kurfürstendamm, the concept driven space houses the brand’s ready-to-wear and home collections. Visitors will also find a selection of Italian design and products, which were selected by creative director Simon Holloway, from scents transformed by Turin based Laboratiorio Olfattivo to colorful Murano vases by Salviati. Benvenuto in Italia.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

We’re zooming in on the latest addition in Hillier Bartley’s bag range. The shape of the London-based brand’s distinct ‘Binoclar’ design takes its inspiration from a gentleman’s binocular bag and is hand crafted in Italy. This black and white edition, finished with a tiger’s eye, has got us ready for our close-up.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

The debut of a sunglass collaboration when Paris is at its greyest might be considered unusually timed. Yet the Revel frames designed by Rabih Kayrouz make such an upbeat chic statement, they all but self-manifest a good mood. The eye-catching, architectural range marks the first designer association for Revel, a French heritage label that re-emerged on the market two years ago after decades of dormancy; from 1851 the early 1980s, the family-run brand had actually specialised in high-end sun umbrellas that were sold around the world. ‘You can’t relaunch a brand with a product that’s out of fashion; sunglasses continue the sun story but as something that’s relevant,’ new owner Stan Belliard tells Wallpaper*, recounting how he was drawn to the brand after happening upon a vintage poster from 1922.
 
Kayrouz, with no previous experience designing glasses, knew he wanted to evoke the ‘first gesture’ of eyewear: two circles and two extending lines. As his own twist, he proposed one version with a half frame that exposes the upper part of the crystal, and another with a thin trompe l’oeil clear band meant to make the frame appear split in two. Bright shades of poppy, absinthe and ultraviolet shake up the usual spectrum of tortoiseshell and neutrals, while a matte, brushed finish registers with subtle finesse. ‘Technically, this was all complicated but I wanted the outcome to be accessible,’ says Kayrouz. ‘Much the same way I design clothes, the concept was very automatic and spontaneous.’
 
Belliard noted that his fabricators (near Sens in the Yonne region) rose to the challenge, with the outcome proving a fine example of creative alignment. ‘They’re joyful and luminous like Revel’s story yet project the playful side of Rabih’s personality that complements the haute couture quality of his clothes,’ he says. As with all Revel frames, each style is limited to 100 pairs and numbered accordingly, which underscores the artisanal aspect while elevating the cachet.

Writer: Amy Verner

We said goodbye to beloved Parisian boutique Colette in December, however we do not need to bid farewell to the musky scent that used to fill the store. Created by lifestyle brand Lola James Harper, the fragrance was first produced in 2013 with the name ‘L’air de Colette’, where it made its debut as a scent and as a company in Colette’s store. Encased in the brand’s signature amber glass apothecary bottles, the scent comprises of rich wooden notes combined with a sharp citrus edge — the perfect combination for the store’s nonchalant Parisian atmosphere. The scent will continue to be produced as a candle and room spray under the name ‘213 Rue Saint-Honore Air’, to truly honneur and remember the memory of Colette.

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Rosanna Bruce

For a springtime cover up we’re heading straight towards La DoubleJ’s androgynous ‘Boy’ shirt, a style cut from sumptuous silk, in a range of exuberant patterns. Wallpaper’s own JJ Martin, the founder of the brand, sources her prints in Mantero, a silk archive near Lake Como. This figurative print was originally designed in 1971. ‘It is a very fun, stylised print of naked ladies lounging by the seaside,’ Martin says of the print which features women’s curves blending into the sea or their chic chic sun loungers. An essential purchase whether or not you dare to bare.

Photographer: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Lune Kuipers
 

 

British eyewear specialists ZanZan’s recent website re-launch comes with eleven new styles from the brand. Using off cuts of dead stock French acetate, hand painted techniques and lightly coloured lenses, founders Megan Trimble and Gareth Townshend delved into the archives of their vintage sunglasses collection to find inspiration for the range of ultra modern frames.

Writer: Jason Hughes

In celebration of the opening of Moreau Paris’ store in London we’ve had a sneak preview of the accessories that will be on display in its Bruton Street home. The French maison which was founded in 1882, has been given a bold lease of life by artistic director Fedor Georges Savchenko, and we’ve got our eye on this Brégancon shopper in a bold blue finish. Keen to show your true colours? Moreau Paris’ stores offer a customisation service so you can select whichever shade personifies you the most.

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Nehera’s latest campaign has us seeing things a little differently. Shot by Michal Pudelka, it draws on the concept of light wind - an enveloping force behind the S/S 2018 collection. It features images of models reclining on the rooftops of pastel coloured tower blocks or closing their eyes in airy tailoring as if engulfed in a warm wind. We’ve found this image particularly eye-catching. Here, Nehera’s band of models are seen through the through the handle of a cream shoulder bag, positioned on top of an air conditioning shaft.

Making a splash for spring is Max V Koenig, the fledgling accessories brand inspired by the sandy beaches, sparkling oceans and striped sun loungers of the Mediterranean. ‘It’s the grey of the pebbles, the coral red from the sunsets and greens from the vegetation of Provence that inspire,’ says Max V Koenig, the founder of his eponymous brand. ‘My ’‘Stripe’’ collection reflects the old glamour and flair of the Côte d’Azur. The sceneries of a hotel pool, simply the joie de vivre of the French Riviera’. We’re keen to settle down on a sun lounger with this oversized ‘Orion’ bag. In sandy shades and oceanic tones, it’s the perfect piece for creating poolside envy.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

We’re feeling lightheaded over Giuseppe Zanotti’s latest ergonomic ankle-skimming sneakers. The styles in the ‘Light Jump’ collection, imagined in sleek stretch neoprene and with a durable waterproof rubber sole have been designed to act as a second skin. With a futuristic flair, they’ll bring an ultra stylish spring to your step.
 
Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

In our March 2017 issue, we celebrated the reopening of Connolly on London’s Clifford Street. Now, a new range of desk accessories celebrate the relationships that its founder Isabel Ettedgui developed during the boutique’s heyday. Anna Garner worked as head of communications for Joseph, the label founded by Ettedgui’s late husband. She founded her online retail space The Garnered in October 2016, the same week that Connolly reopened. The site has released a range of its luxurious leather goods, including this heart shape bookend, designed by Couli Jobert in Ubrique, Southern Spain, in a luxurious mature vegetable tan. A symbol of a long lasting relationship, and a romantic token to accompany your literary treasures.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

Last November we celebrated the merits of Mr Porter’s eponymous Mr P line, a range made up of elegant core wardrobe classics, inspired by British artist Lucian Freud. Now the online destination has launched its second 23 item collection, inspired by the LA art scene of the sixties, and art world behemoths including Ed Ruscha, Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein. Highlights include a suede tan jacket, herringbone wide leg chinos, an M65 khaki field jacket and a striped bowling shirt. State of the art dressing whether or not you’re a pro with the paintbrush. 

Photography: Stefan Heinrichs. Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

New York Fashion Week marked Frame’s 5th birthday, our go-to label for not just denim but its sleek range of ready-to-wear, which ranges from velvet suits to patterned summer dresses. Now the brand’s founders Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson have added accessories to their offering, with the release of the ‘Les Second’ bag. Available to pre-order now, the carryall tote has been designed in collaboration with accessories extraordinaire Sara Battaglia, and we’re green with envy for this bright style, sure to strike a bold note with any ensemble.

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

Joseph has opened its largest boutique to date in Miami’s Design District. London-based architecture and design practice Sybarite have designed over fifty stores for the brand, and the new 285 sq m space features sleek geometric steelwork, brass fixtures and sumptuous velvet upholstery. In a nod to the visual aesthetic of Joseph’s boutiques, which incorporate a different marble into the design of each store, the space features a till point constructed from a an eye-catching slab of Onice Smeraldo marble. It also celebrates the visual language of Miami, with an imposing corkscrew staircase, inspired by the city’s architecture from the forties and fifties. 

Writer: Laura Hawkins


 

Salvatore Ferragamo is putting its best foot forward with its newest line of ‘Cube’ trainers. The collection reflects a fascination with geometry, and features sleek slip on and lace-up sneakers with chunky geometric detail soles. Sleek and versatile, they’ll have you in good shape in no time.

Writer: Laura Hawkins 

Japanese designer Kengo Kuma is the latest creative to reinvent Valextra’s Milanese flagship boutique. Following on from interventions from the likes of Martino Gamper and Snarkitecture, the Japanese architect was invited to interpret the brand’s space on Via Alessandro Manzoni. Titled ‘The Forest’, Kuma’s installation features sectioned cedar trunks arranged throughout the boutique, contrasting with marble and mirrored surfaces and creating a multisensory space that mimics nature with a contemporary design aesthetic. ‘Valextra is a brand that expresses outspoken discreetness and a timeless contemporaneity,’ says Kuma, who was inspired by the brand’s ‘intelligent simplicity and great elegance.’ The raw material contrasts with the refined product displayed on small, altar-like shelves dotted throughout the boutique. ‘We wanted to create the feeling of being in an enchanted place,’ adds Kuma, ‘where one has the pleasure to get lost; a labyrinth to discover treasures.’

Writer: Rosa Bertoli

As part of his eclectic S/S 2018 menswear collection for Marni, creative director Francisco Risso presented oversize tailoring, cut from striped and nostalgic sailing boat-printed fabric. This oceanic motif also journeyed across the brand’s trainer offering, and hitting the high high notes are these ankle skimming canvas sneakers with a chunky gnurled rubber sole. Talk about getting your sea legs!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

In his exploration of Americana, Calvin Klein’s chief creative officer Raf Simons presented a S/S 2018 collection with garments featuring images of Andy Warhol’s artworks. Now Calvin Klein Underwear has taken Warhol’s pieces below the belt, partnering with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts ©2018 The Andy Warhol Museum on a capsule collection that features shots from the pop artist’s silent 1963 film, Kiss. At the time, Hollywood censorship prevented any scenes of a sexual nature on the screen aside from three-second clips featuring interlocking lips. Ever the revolutionary, Warhol created this experimental film as part of a series that features close-ups of twelve heterosexual, homosexual and biracial couples, kissing for three and a half minutes each. The black and white stills are printed on Calvin Klein’s classic cotton underwear designs, men’s and women’s intimates sealed with an on screen kiss.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

Maison Margiela’s S/S 2018 collection hinted at different elements of travel. On the catwalk we spotted dangling luggage belts, name tags and plane tickets, suitable to hang off the most distinctive of travelling bags. New this season is the Glam Slam, a pillow-like, cloud shaped bag which comes in soft material such as silky lambskin leather. Forget about uncomfortable inflatable neck cushions, we know what we’ll be carrying on that next red-eye flight.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Belstaff is renowned for its dedication to weatherproofing and fabric development, a commitment demonstrated in its most recent Origins collection, which launches today. The collection boasts a series of stylish, lightweight performance pieces for men and women, described by creative director Delphine Ninous as being grounded in ‘iconic silhouettes, with laser cut and bonded finishings giving a new, sharp and modern look.’ Outperforming for us is this sleek women’s ’Meridian’ style. Waterproof, windproof, breathable, moisture wicking, quick drying and UV protective, it features an elegant snap collar and feminine drawstring waist.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

The elevation of the everyday sneaker continues to prevail in 2018. Amongst some of the most tempting are specimens from the fledgling label, They New York. Armed with a minimalist ethos inspired by the architecture of Kenya Hara and Tadao Ando that simultaneously makes nods to the bold geometry of the Bauhaus and Japanese graphic design, the label has developed a seamless construction that allows the addition of their signature shapes to truly pop. They New York debuts two new styles this season – a mid-rise version of its signature Two Tone sneaker and a version of the Two Tone low sneaker with an added disc for extra flair. Available in both stark and muted colorways, it won’t be hard to find the right fit.

Writer: Pei-Ru Keh

Top of our summer holiday hit list is this raffia-bag by Victoria Beckham. The designer was preoccupied with delicacy for her S/S 2018 collection, working in organza, silks and sorbet shades. This fascination is also evoked in this hand-woven leather bag, topped off with durable leather handles and boasting an oscillating graphic finish. For modern effect, the straps are folded over the body of the bag, and carried as a lightweight clutch.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Brooklyn-based textile designer and artist Olivia Wendel, is transferring her much loved illustrations from fashion accessories to home decoration. Wendel, who graduated from Rhode Island School of Design in 2014, has worked for labels including Kate Spade and Proenza Schouler, and first began to work on softer fabrics instead of canvas due to the movement and life that it brought to her drawings. Wendel’s debut home collection, which launches next month, features pillows hand embroidered with figures, which create an ethereal community intertwined with roots and flora.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

Last year, we were getting our kicks over the artisanal LA-based trainer brand No-One. The brand – founded by creative director Mark Gainor –  creates around 18 pairs of hand-crafted shoes at a time from its laboratory-style Venice studio. Stepping up this season is this Bravo style, featuring an upper crafted from hand-painted buffalo skin and a lining cut using French plonge lambskin, or this monochrome alternative, its sleek upper cut from 3M Treated young bull Nubuck. The last of each style is moulded for five days in the Californian sun, and we bet they’ll last you many days more.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

With city dwellers living in a state of permanent stress cause by pollution, insanely high rent prices and the obligation to be connected to their phones 24/7, it comes as no surprise that more and more people are now choosing a simpler life in the countryside. And now they can wear Acne Studios with their well worn wellies and wax jackets. 

For his A/W 2018 collection, Swedish designer Jonny Johansson got inspired by the slow-paced, rhythm of country living, and it suited his brand to a T. Who wouldn’t dream of an oversized woolen coat, a waxed cotton trench or a cropped shearling aviator jacket (worn over long, chunky knitwear) to survive the long winter months? Johansson offered us that and much more. The collection featured British bucolic spirit with its check motifs, silk scarves worn over the head and eccentric coats. But the Northern sun and a tad of Swedish melancholy were also there, in the cropped knits, pastel tones and nineties-inspired layerings of delicate and often transparent fabrics. 

The show came just a few days after the brands menswear presentation in Paris, having been moved from the ready-to-wear calendar to couture week. Which is not to say Johansson has any intention of becoming a couture brand. ‘It’s quite a bold decision from a business perspective, but from a life perspective, it’s an important choice. I love fashion, but I can’t keep up with these long, long seasons’, he said backstage. Proof that even the fashion industry can benefit from a slower, more country living- inspired pace.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans. Writer: Marta Represa

For his debut collection at Parisian house Carven, Serge Ruffieux cited travel as a major inspiration. Time travel was on his mind too, as the designer delved into the archives of Madame Carven at the Palais Galliera. Graphic prints, stripes and whimsical lamb patterns feature in the Resort 2018 offering, like the bold crossover detailing of this summer shirt. ‘The print comes from a scarf I found in the archives,’ Ruffieux says. ‘I also found draped dresses, couture gowns in African boubou fabrics.’ Only time will tell what those archival treasures will inspire.

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Laura Hawkins

From Japan comes a new project by Chacoli, a brand specialising in storage and transport containers. The Chacoli team has been working on a range of products based on a concept they call ‘Case of Case’. The case in this instance is from the brand’s Partition Collection, which consists of a range of functional bags with graphically compartmentalised sections. Made of heavy-duty cotton they might look like storage boxes but once held they fit comfortably in the hand and can be folded compactly. Now available at Dover Street Market London.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

Since Demna Gvasalia took the helm of Balenciaga in 2016, the Parisian brand has demonstrated a fascination with workwear silhouettes. The label’s A/W 2017 menswear show was even set against a backdrop of grey roller blinds- a stereotype of corporate visual culture. Now, Balenciaga have teamed up with Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter, on two exclusive capsule collections, with its accompanying campaign shot on staff members across all three companies. This was shot and styled by Balenciaga collaborators Johnny Dufort and Lotta Volkova, with creative direction from Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter’s in-house teams, at its chic West London HQ. Boasting Balenciaga’s signature ‘Pantashoes’ sockboots with an exclusive metal chain print, men’s checked suits and branded caps, the offering will mean you never want to work from home again.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

This week sees the opening of ‘Queen of Prints’ an exhibition at Dallas Contemporary celebrating the work of Athens-born London-based designer Mary Katrantzou. Her brand is renowned for its bold use of colour, and the development of innovative patterns and prints. Take the digitally manipulated visuals that catapulted Katrantzou to fame in 2009, or the bright blooms and colourful plastics in her S/S 2018 collection. The exhibition, curated by museum director Peter Doroshenko and director of exhibitions Justine Ludwig, features 200 garments displayed on kaleidoscopic plinths, plus accessories, sketches and textiles. ‘Queen of Prints’ runs until 18 March 2018.

Writer: Laura Hawkins
 

There are so many eye-catching elements to KITE- a new Eyebar on East London’s Redchurch Street - we don’t know where to begin. Take the sleek design of the space, one realised by architect Asif Khan MBE, and made up of an assemblage of minimalist wood fixtures, mirrored surfaces and metal stools. Or its pioneering eye testing equipment and partnership with lens manufacturer Carl Zeiss. Most alluring of all is co-founders Asad Hamir, Adarsh Radia and Amar Radia’s offering of modern opticals and sunglasses, ranging from octagonal stainless steel frames, to clear acetate styles with exposed wire temples and gold hardware.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

 

Been left feeling frantic when your best pair of fail-safe jeans falls out of production? Proving that it values long-term relationships, J Brand’s ‘Icons’ series has the solution. The collection is made up of staple silhouettes in denim and leather, available to purchase at any time. So whether you favour an impeccably cut mid-rise cropped boot cut or a high-rise cigarette skinny, J Brand has the all year round answer.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

We often expect opulent and extravagant accessories from Saint Laurent. However, in the Parisian house’s latest accessory addition, we see a more pared back yet perfectly on point piece– introducing the Large Noé Tote Bag. Printed upon light linen, a bold text reads ‘Rive Gauche’, a reference to the original name of the brand and its bohemian Left Bank heritage. Secured by signature slap buttons and contrasting black leather handles, this is a must-have for the upcoming season. 

Writer: Katie Meston

Luxury cashmere and wool specialists, Loro Piana, have proven to be ahead of the flock with their new ambitious project, The Gift of Kings. Working with Australian and New Zealander breeders, they have developed a wool fiber which is as light as vincuña and finer than cashmere. With more than 30 years of research and development behind the project, Loro Piana have now introduced the superior fiber to their roster of elegant wool designs, seen here in this refined overcoat. It’s double-breasted closure gives a nod towards traditional mariner design and with a water-repellent finish, it is ideal for aquatic adventures.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce

Harrys of London’s sneaker series includes the aptly named ‘Bolt’, a fast paced reference to the block of colour which flows from the trainer’s sole through to its fine leather or suede upper.  Not forgetting the style’s new Technogel 3D sole, which uses gel bubbles to adapt to the wearer’s foot. Bolt is a comfortable, without the compromise, off-duty statement, and you’ll be getting your kicks from them not just for the New Year, but also well beyond.

Writer: Katie Meston

 

Following the launch of Japanese artist Fumiko Imano’s latest book We Oui!, Loewe has tapped the photographer for its Publication #17. Imano, whose work focuses on self-portraiture through photography, video and installation, created a ‘Twins’ series, featuring collages of herself with an imaginary sister, after feeling isoated when moving to Hitachi. This concept has been evoked in the artist’s latest images for Loewe, which sees Imano in double, rejoicing together with model Saskia de Brauw on the grounds of Paris’ Maison de l’UNESCO. 

Writer: Lune Kuipers

We’ve tracked the Birkenstock Box’s movements from Andreas Murkudis in Berlin, to 10 Corso Como in Milan. The mobile retail concept, designed in collaboration with Gonzalez Haase AAS, is now making moves on California, in a partnership with Rick Owens. The box, which will pitch up outside the label’s store from 17-21 April on La Brea Avenue in LA, will have a stark white façade and an interior designed by Owens himself. It will boast limited versions of Birkenstock’s signature Arizona, Madrid and Boston styles in army felt, suede and long cow hair. Shoes perfect for stepping into the Californian sunshine in spring.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

We’ve shining our new brand spotlight on Moon Choi, the New York-based fashion designer and Parsons School of Design graduate. ‘My spring collection revolves around tailoring. The typically masculine realm of suits first caught my eye as a kid, watching my father, a businessman, dress for the office,’ Choi – who has also worked for Phillip Lim – says of her S/S 2018 offering. This wondrous take on Wall Street dressing features tailoring-inspired jumpsuits, deconstructed blazers worn back to front and gauzy pinstripe shirt dresses. ‘Mixing uniforms and suits and finding freedom within these garments gives me a sense of purpose’,’ Choi says. Talking about working it!

Writer: Laura Hawkins

With 2018 getting into full swing what better time to invest in a new bag by a hotly tipped new brand? Amsterdam-based designer Elza Wandler’s namesake bag brand Wandler is inspired by German artist Imi Knoebel’s layering of compatible tones. The seven graphic styles in Wandler’s debut collection are handcrafted in Italy, and the practical styles come in a dynamic range of colours. Take this rounded Anna belt, the perfect hands-free holdall for a practicality-focused new you. This is Dutch functionalism for 2018.

Writer: Lune Kuipers

London-based designer Paula Knorr’s S/S 2018 collection comprises of sculptural and evocative shapes, which create an interplay between tight and fluid forms. Knorr, who hails from Frankfurt, ruches sleeves in her collection to create wing-like shapes which flutter down the side of the body. These details are also seen in her tailoring, with ruched free flowing silhouettes layered over billowing suit trousers. Knorr’s unique approach to tailoring is certainly the right way to breeze into the new year.

Writer: Rosanna Bruce