Best in shows: our favourite spring/summer 2017 collections took us on a trip back in time
Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière’s futuristic take on tailoring fused zipped trouser detailing with skin-exposing cut-outs, spliced to reveal décolletage.
Pictured, jacket, £2,050; leggings, £800; boots, price on request, all by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £790, by Charlotte Chesnais. ‘Props’ object, price on request, by Konstantin Grcic, for Cassina. ‘Freezing Mirror’, edition of 20, price on request, by Hervé Van der Straeten.
Photography: Sofie Middernacht and Maarten Alexander. Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure. As originally featured in the February 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*215)
Prada
Miuccia Prada’s frothy take on 1940s swimwear featured high-waisted silhouettes and bra-tops trimmed with downy ostrich feathers.
Top, £645; shorts, £420, both by Prada. Earrings, £790, by Charlotte Chesnai
Céline
Phoebe Philo updated the classic shirt-dress silhouette with a bold monochromatic colour palette and cocoon-like cape detailing.
Dress, €2,550; shoes, €580; earrings, €480, all by Céline ‘Cristalloide’ console, edition of 20, price on request, by Hervé Van der Straeten
Paul Smith
An in-your-face orange suit was Paul Smith’s way of endorsing sartorial self-expression with a wink to the 1960s.
Jacket, £915; trousers, £230, both by Paul Smith. Shoes, €710, by Santoni. Socks, £12, by Falke
Saint Laurent
Patent finishes, puffed sleeves and thigh-skimming shapes marked Anthony Vaccarello’s overtly 1980s outing at Saint Laurent.
Dress, £1,540; earrings, £340, both by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Marni
Consuelo Castiglioni brought a touch of eccentricity to her utility-focused outerwear, pairing a cobalt blue colour palette with elongated sleeves.
Coat, £2,170; earrings, £410; shoes, £660, all by Marni ‘Bended Mirror #1’, €7,800, by Muller Van Severen, for Galerie Kreo
Loewe
Artfulness was key for Jonathan Anderson, who mixed contemporary artwork and objects in his show venue with panelled and pleated raw-edged dresses.
Dress, £2,275; bracelets, £250 each; earrings, £295, all by Loewe. Shoes, £670, by Pierre Hardy ‘Haze’ stool, £8,200, by Wonmin Park, for Carpenters Workshop Gallery
Hillier Bartley
Billowing sleeves and shimmering fabrics reflected Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s bold celebration of 1970s style, inspired by David Bowie.
Top, £1,495; trousers, £795, both by Hillier Bartley. Shoes, £670, by Pierre Hardy ‘Props’ object, as before
Dusan
Dusan Paunovic demonstrates his finesse for fabrication with this washed-silk tangerine dress, which fluidly skims the body.
Dress, €1,170, by Dusan. Earrings, £790, by Charlotte Chesnais
Gucci
Opulent embellishments are essential to Alessandro Michele’s more-is-more aesthetic, but the rich emerald green of this coat is equally luxurious.
Coat, price on request, by Gucci
Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut collection for Dior fused ethereal tulle silhouettes with sporty logo detailing, a signature of the house in the 2000s.
Dress, price on request; bra, £620, both by Dior ‘Freezing Mirror’, as before
Salvatore Ferragamo
With a collection inspired by the work of painter Nicolas de Staël, Ferragamo’s dark blue safari suits evoked the inky blues in the artist’s compositions.
Jacket, £1,065; trousers, £770; shoes, £645, all by Salvatore Ferragamo ‘Freezing Mirror’, as before
Issey Miyake
Yoshiyuki Miyamae brought architectural volume to Miyake’s origami-pleated textiles, with silhouettes constructed from square panels of fabric.
Jacket, £1,945; dress, £1,620, both by Issey Miyake. Shoes, £350, by Issey Miyake x United Nude. Earrings, £790, by Charlotte Chesnais
Balenciaga
Bent on transforming conventional silhouettes, Demna Gvasalia fetishised the 1980s shoulder by way of maximised proportions.
Jacket, £1,325; trousers, £295, both by Balenciaga. Shoes, £615, by JM Weston ‘Props’ object, as before
Jil Sander
Sunset tones permeated Rodolfo Paglialunga’s volume-focused collection, which featured both circular sleeves and square shoulders.
Dress, £2,610, by Jil Sander. Shoes, £670, by Pierre Hardy. Earrings, £1,390, by Delfina Delettrez ‘Freezing Mirror’, as before