Scene setting: the provocative designer Philipp Plein is not one to shy away from putting on a show and this season was no different with him truly pushing the boat out. Staged at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, with ferries transporting guests across the river, Plein transformed the Duggal Greenhouse into some uncharted territory in outer space, complete with craggy rock and ice wall formations, a giant 18-metre wide spaceship and lots of fluffy snow.

Mood board: the dress code for life on planet Plein was an unapologetic mix of extroverted embellishment. From candy-coloured fur coats and skin tight metallic ski suits to transparent mackintosh coats and glossy puffer jackets emblazoned with trailing straps and logos, there was a boisterous glamour to the men’s and womenswear on offer.

Finishing touches: Plein’s accessories always pack a punch. For this season, some of the stunners ranged from personalised LED high top sneakers to crystal encrusted ‘Plein’ logo-ed box bags and collaborative designs with the iconic Playboy branding. Some of these new season items are now also exclusively available at the brand’s Soho pop-up space, ‘No Mercy on Mercer’. Festooned with neon lighting and a customised sports car as well, the eye-catching space is every bit as vibrant as Plein fans could hope for.

Scene setting: It’s been a busy week for Phillipp Plein. During Milan Fashion Week, the German designer, famed for his elaborate runway sets, has staged a Grease themed runway show for his eponymous line, boasting with a procession of two-wheeling cars, and couple of of motorbikes speeding through flames thrown in for good measure. Not forgetting his second Plein Sport show, complete with cage fighters, and women performing aerobic routines on disco ball-topped poles. The Philipp Plein Group acquired Billionaire last year, and topping the gold helicopter that sat on its runway last season, for S/S 2018, the soundtrack for the brand’s show was provided by a live female performer crooning James Bond theme tunes.

Mood board: As is clear from the name of the brand, the Billionaire aesthetic is not for your average Joe. The brand’s James Bond theme filtered into its ostentatious S/S 2018 wardrobe, designed to take its customer from the beach club to the casino (surely his most suited habitat). Colours inspired by jettsetting tropical plains came in azure ostrich or orange snakeskin bomber jackets, trench coats in fuchsia crocodile, complemented with tuxedo jackets in shimmering black sequins. Suits were double breasted or in louche silk jacquard, and beach shorts were paired with polo necks, the outfit of a businessman whose private jet has travelled from chillier climes straight to a white sanded beach.

Best in show: A more paired back take on pizzazz, a double breasted grey pinstripe suit was paired with a mint green polo-neck, the outfit of one of Billionaire’s more bashful self-made men. 

For his Christmas party in Milan, fashion designer Philipp Plein took his 400 employees to the circus. He donned a red nose and performed magic tricks with Zippo the Clown while staff dined among lions and scantily clad tamers. To see Plein dressed in tails waving a magic wand is something of a novelty. Usually he’s posing in his signature leather and denim behind the wheel of his Rolls-Royce Dawn or his Lamborghini Aventador, or he’s entertaining lavishly in one of his mansions in New York, Cannes or Bel Air.

Last December, he opened his first UK boutique on New Bond Street, one of 60 new Philipp Plein stores to hit the planet in 2016. Among the guests at the launch party were Arsenal footballer Olivier Giroud and his sporting cohorts, and an array of models and pop stars who make up the ‘Plein Squad’. They partied into the small hours, before Plein took off for Paris and Amsterdam to check out further boutique openings.

To outsiders, the 38-year-old German designer seems to have shot, bullet-like, onto Bond Street, Rue de Rivoli and Madison Avenue, but he has been building his empire for almost two decades. He started out making furniture from stainless steel and mock croc while studying for a law degree, which he later dropped. In the early 2000s he switched to leather accessories, then fashion. His testosterone-fuelled menswear – all tough-guy denim, leather, buckles and studs – and his flesh-baring womenswear conquered catwalks from Moscow to Doha to Wuhan before landing in the ‘mature’ markets of the US and Europe. His current mission to ‘conquer America’ means there will be 11 stores in the US by April.

‘When you start from zero, there’s the whole world to take,’ says Plein from the Bond Street store. ‘We didn’t focus on the UK until recently, because there were other markets like Russia and Asia where we would get return on investment. We’re still a small start-up; we use our own cash flow and 95 per cent of my staff are under 40. If I had taken on London six years ago, I would be bankrupt.

‘It was the hardest boutique in the world to complete, and took one and a half years longer than expected as the whole site had to be rebuilt,’ he adds. For a dynamo like Plein, who never takes a day off (even Christmas Day was spent on a flight to New York), this was beyond frustrating. ‘I’m not a construction guy, I’m a retailer. I wanted to move straight in. Instead we had to renovate the entire building – while paying rent.’ 

Italian architect Claudio Pironi designed the 420 sq m space and has worked with Plein on 90 boutiques around the world. ‘I have never had more limitations than in Mayfair,’ Pironi says, which makes his hexagonal marble staircase, with its cantilevered landings and half landings, all the more impressive. ‘It was an extremely difficult and complex space.’

Pironi is well versed in fashion retail, having worked with labels such as Casadei, Les Copains and Corneliani. He started collaborating with Plein almost four years ago and it would be hard to find a more unlikely pair. ‘Philipp is maximalist and I’m not, so sometimes it’s difficult to harmonise our vision,’ explains Pironi, who cites Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe among his passions. ‘His former store concept was too much. We needed to tone it down a bit, introduce some geometry and make it lighter.’ The resulting boutiques feature black and white marble (for menswear and womenswear respectively), lots of glass and stainless steel. At the entrance to each shop, Plein ‘followers’ are greeted with a trademark crystal-encrusted skull – ‘a symbol of worship’. 

‘Philipp is very smart and has very strong opinions, and it’s challenging working with him, not least because there’s no standard customer,’ says Pironi. Within the luxury arena, Plein is seen as something of a democratic designer, a new kid on the block unfettered by the fashion world’s snobberies, hierarchies and unspoken conservatism. He’s unconcerned about whether his customer is a cleaner from Ecuador blowing a year’s savings on one dress, or a Formula One superstar buying three £5,000 leather jackets. ‘Philipp is a strange event in the fashion world because he doesn’t respect the status quo,’ says Pironi. ‘From the outside, it seems to be a world that is very creative, incredible, fantastical. But inside it’s as conservative and closed as any other industry. There is a lot of envy. A lot of shit. Philipp does what he wants and doesn’t fear anyone.’

‘The secret of the fashion industry is that there is no secret,’ announces Plein. ‘It performs like an old-world economy – everyone uses the same materials, the same suppliers, the same models, PRs, magazines and photographers. Many brands don’t listen to the market. It’s crazy that winter shoes go on mark-down in December and that summer shoes arrive in stores in the winter. They design for the glamour and shine, not for the customer. I am part of a new generation that has the opportunity to do things differently.’

This includes spectacular, budget-breaking runway shows, which this year migrated for the first time from Milan to New York. Plein currently collaborates with British set designer Simon Costin, who worked with the late Alexander McQueen throughout his career. So far the duo have created fantasy worlds inhabited by fire-breathing trucks, live hawks in flight, and models who are often naked and invariably caged, armed or suspended from the ceiling. ‘Philipp always has some mad scheme, but he’s very collaborative,’ says Costin. ‘Working with him reminds me a lot of my days with Lee [McQueen]. He has huge budgets, which is exciting and unusual in this day and age. His shows are done with such gusto you have to take your hat off to him.’

Last year, Costin created an ‘immersive presentation’ at Plein’s villa in Cannes to celebrate the purchase of the designer’s majority stake in Billionaire Couture, the luxury men’s label started by Formula One’s Flavio Briatore in 2005. ‘I had rooms with performers, naked models, a gigantic champagne tower and a team of fencers duelling for the hand of a naked woman,’ Costin recalls. ‘All the guests were given masks to wear and allowed to wander from room to room, and all the male models were over 50 and looked like the members of a very exclusive club. It was quite a night!’

On Planet Plein, there’s no boundary between work and play; the designer’s homes are alternately workspaces and venues for brainstorming, partying and testing out his architectural whims. He recently purchased a mansion in Bel Air that once belonged to entrepreneur, film producer and polymath Howard Hughes. With its unimpeded view of the ocean, it is Plein’s dream renovation project and will cost $90 million and take three years to complete. Neighbours include Jennifer Lopez and Elon Musk, the founder of Tesla Motors. Plein has met the former and feels an affinity with the latter. ‘The automotive industry is like fashion in that it’s very protected, competitive and filled with jealousy,’ he says. ‘No one apart from Musk has succeeded in launching a new brand. They didn’t take him seriously, but he proved them wrong.’ 

In 2011, when Plein was still seeking acceptance into Italy’s governing body of fashion, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which he gained in 2013, he filled the church of San Paolo Converso in the centre of Milan with hundreds of white roses, as part of his S/S 2012 womenswear show. Today the church is occupied by architecture firm CLS, which, by coincidence, is designing the new Plein Sport boutiques. Picking up where top-end Nike stops, Plein Sport ventures onto luxury turf with technical sports gear you can actually exercise in. Around 60 Plein Sport stores are scheduled to open in 2017, and CLS has created each as a ‘sports playground’, with basketball pitches, LED floors, cyber mannequins in the windows and bespoke punch bags, weights and benches. ‘Philipp came to us last July with the idea for mono-brand sports boutiques,’ says CLS founder Massimiliano Locatelli. ‘There are so few people in the fashion world that have the vision and courage to do things.’

‘At the moment, fashion is my passion,’ says the ever-restless Plein. ‘It keeps me busy and gives me the freedom to do what I want. I have the playground in which to create events, shows, dreams. I don’t know how to build cars. Not yet, but you never know.’

As originally featured in the March 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*216)

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Philipp Plein website and the Studio Pironi website

With over-the-top theatrics and famous special guests, Philipp Plein’s Milan Fashion Week runway spectacles have become one of the most anticipated events on the fashion calendar. But for A/W 2017 – after conquering Russia, the Middle East and China, the markets that have contributed to Philipp Plein’s flashy eponymous ready-to-wear line, and earnt €200 million in revenue in 2015 – the designer set his sights on the US, staging his first combined men’s and women’s shows at the New York Public Library in Manhattan.

For his New York Fashion Week debut, Plein pulled out all the stops. ‘I wanted a new challenge,’ he explains of the location of the show, which celebrated Plein’s pop culture-heavy personal vision of America, and featured live performances by Nas and The Kills. ‘America is a new market with an enormous potential. We are opening new stores there, and planning to continue our expansion. Strengthening the relationship with this country is so important for my business.’

Plein tapped Carine Roitfeld to style the show, Evelien Joos to cast it, and Simon Costin, the mind behind his elaborate Milan sets, to transform the historic public library venue. ‘I wanted a contrast with the classic atmosphere. I wanted music, I wanted a dinner and an after party’ explains the German-born designer, who got his first taste of American culture while watching and listening to its music and television growing up in Munich.

His A/W 2017 show was a tourist-inspired and hip hop-loaded vision of New York, one perhaps perceived by Plein on an early visit to the city with his parents, featuring trips to the Statue of Liberty, and a walk through an illuminated Times Square. ‘It really represented my love and appreciation of all things American,’ he says.

At the Fifth Avenue entrance to the library, guests were greeted by the guitar-wielding Naked Cowboy – one of Times Square’s most famous performers, an Elvis impersonator, and lines of women dressed as Lady Liberty. Inside, vertical neon lights formed a circle beneath the rotunda, serving as the night’s centre stage. Chain link fences lined its halls, with neon white lights featuring phrases like, ‘Everyone wants to eat, but few are willing to hunt.’

Each seat was equipped with a thick lookbook with the phrase ‘Let’s make NYFW great again,’ on its cover. This greatness was envisaged by Plein in a collection comprised of oversized puffer-jackets, mink furs and chinchilla heeled boots. Pieces were finished with dollar bill, Statue of Liberty and FBI symbols. ‘I imagined people from all of these different neighbourhoods and how they would look, and what they would wear’ the designer says. ‘With a Philipp Plein spin of course.’

Contemplating the success of the show Plein professes, ‘An amazing casting, a prestigious venue and super performers made our show unique. I’m bringing a new element of fun and craziness to such an overtly selective market.’

INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Philipp Plein website

Scene setting: Just like the state of Texas, bigger is better for Philipp Plein, and the designer rented out the New York Public Library for his American debut, which combined both his womenswear and menswear A/W 2017 collections. The designer worked with regular collaborator Simon Costin on the show’s set design, and women lined the grand stairs at the entrance dressed as the Statue of Liberty. Inside, signs hanging on the walls read things like ‘Plein for President’, and along the runway chain link fences were decorated with illuminated slogans.

Mood board: The collection conveyed Plein’s ‘lit’ - a word the designer uses often - and encompassed his idea of America, which was probably formed by watching a lot of hip hop videos. Clothing labels like Rocawear and FUBU were sure to help inform the designer’s collection, which was full of large parkas and puffer jackets, fur coats and embellished denim.

Finishing touches: Plein hired an Elvis impersonator and the famous Naked Cowboy who performs in Times Square to entertain the crowd. Hair stylists formed cornrows in the models’ hair, while patches with the Plein logo and ‘I love New York' covered a number of coats, knits and bomber jackets.

Mood board: What to do with a brand called Billionaire? If you are extravagant owner Phillipp Plein, you vamp up the Dallas theme song, plop a golden helicopter on the runway and send out models oozing in machismo. The attitude was JR Ewing meets Roberto Cavalli, with handsome ruggedly bearded rich men in skin tight jeans or suits, worn with fully fledged mink coats and cowboy hats.

Best in show: The trousers may have been a tad too tight here, but the jackets in buttery crocodile or suede trimmed in leather, were exquisite.

Finishing touches: The extras here cost more than most people's annual savings. All of them of course were purely optional to most men's lives, including the shiny alligator boots, crystal studded slippers, tuxedo shirts trimmed in diamond crown buttons, wide brim hats with ZZ Top beards and shiny black eyewear.

Bertoni 1949: Timeless design, Italian craftsmanship, Moroccan-inspired colours and a hand-painted wooden print, this Bertoni 1949 collection inspired travel to Morocco and beyond

Bally: This summery hued collection by Bally was one that offered classic styles as well as a few new designs, such as a platform Geisha-inspired sandal. The accessories complimented the equally colourful and elegant ready-to-wear line

So Milano: Aldo Carpinteri and Giordano Ollari, founders of the new alternative retail concept So Milano on Piazza Risorgimento, left the opening honours to J.W.Anderson. The designer filled the space’s spherical volumes with bags, shoes and clothing from his A/W 2016 collection and adorned black-and white photographs of classical marble sculptures with jewellery – turning the historical palazzo into an imaginative and unconventional shopping platform

Sara Battaglia: This season the bag designer presented not only a new collection of bags in true Sara Battaglia style, in a second room, a row of mannequins showed her first clothing collection of 1950s-inspired feminine pieces that go perfectly with her colourful, geometric bag designs

Agnona: Imagining a collection for a ‘Swan of today’ Agnona’s designer Simon Holloway presented a romantic and sensual collection of fine cashmere and fluid silks in delicate, soft colours

Jimmy Choo: If we can’t spend enough time in nature, Jimmy Choo will bring nature to us. Surrounded by origami hummingbirds and orchids, the brand presented a vibrant collection of feather-inspired designs and tropical colours

Valextra: Valextra is taking its whole world of classic handbags to a new level. A terrific presentation was matched with sharp new graphic treatments on each handbag

Antonio Marras: Antonio Marras shook it up with a Sixties rock’n’roll collection inspired by the work of Malian photographer Malick Sibidé. A finale of twisting models in waisted dresses and flared skirts brightened the already sunny day

Giuseppe Zanotti: This season, the famous work of Botticelli was the starting point of Giuseppe Zanotti’s design process. Set in fauna and flora, the brand presented a collection of feminine yet powerful heels and flats

Gabriele Colangelo: Colangelo was in an arty mood for spring, bringing handcrafted techniques to his wide-ribboned woven frocks, dresses hanging with flaps and collages of lacework that climbed over tunics and trousers, that were worn with flat, pointed shoe-booties with cut-out sides.

Church’s: This season marks the debut of the women’s version of Church’s classic, the Grafton. Originally a men’s style, the new version will be available in four different colours

Tod’s: For spring, Tod’s skipped its usual runway presentation and instead created a series of tabeaux vivants staged inside Milan’s PAC museum. The Italian brand’s classic pieces and traditional leather good materials in neutral tones looked lovely in clustered groups of real models. But the real winner were the diorama boxes that showed only a flash of toe-tapping or walking feet wearing Tod’s moccassins that were accompanied by live human gloved hands that stroked each piece like a magic show.

Bvlgari: The Serpenti and Bvlgari Bvlgari collections captured the geometry of a sculpted garden and the sensuality of a serpent. The matching eyewear and silk scarfs come in popping colours and kaleidoscopic prints on python skin

Krizia: Long solitary walks and spending time at the historical archive gave Zhu Chongyun, owner and creative director of Krizia, her inspiration for Summer 2017. The result is a collection where East meets West, where past meets present and where fluidity meets sharp pleating.

Furla: Set in an urban field of flowers, Furla presented an energetic and colourful Field of Imagination collection. From bags to scarves and espadrilles to the brand’s first women’s backpack, each design comes in a range of exclusive nature inspired prints

Herno: Herno’s colourful collection of down jackets, raincoats and coats are sure to brighten up any rainy day. The designs come in a blaze of greens, blues and yellows as well strong graphic prints and are made using the finest Italian technical fabrics

Woolrich: In collaboration with the Olivades atelier, Woolrich presented a trans-seasonal collection in which firm fabrics and soft silhouettes come together. The different styles of outerwear and casualwear come in different blues as well as an exclusive camouflage print

Sergio Rossi: This season marks a fresh start for the Italian shoe brand as it harks back to its roots and authentic aesthetics. The contemporary collection was inspired by the graphic style from the 1990s, resulting in a part moccasin, part slipper

Giorgio Armani: ’Emotions of the athletic body’, an exhibition curated by Mr. Armani himself in his dedicated art space Armani Silos – fitted out with red running track flooring for the occasion – saw large-scale black and white photographs of sportswomen and men in perfect aesthetic action.

Fratelli Rossetti: Rossetti is a leader when it comes to loafers. Here, at Palazzo Cusani, pairs of them, in a rainbow of colours, were arranged on plinths set in a circle, with models having fun on swings and relaxing on loungers within a grassy playground.

Ports 1961: The signature yanked-off-center-tailoring at Ports 1961 got a further shake-up this season with bold strokes of striping, lending a graphic and even colorful touch to this brand’s usually minimal codes

Kalmar: A band of beauties and their mid-century furnishings gather in the front yard of a Milanese palazzo for the debut of the London based brand Kalmar

Philipp Plein: From marching bands to Fergie in a convertable, Plein’s ’Alice in Ghettoland’ show was a wild ride. Videography: Antonio Camera

A master of showmanship, Philipp Plein is one designer who doesn’t do things by halves. From outlandish catwalk creations to spectacular show sets, Plein is known for his envelope-pushing concepts. So it comes as little surprise that the label’s new Milanese showroom is equally extravagant. Designed by Claudio Pironi of Claudio Pironi & Partners, the new hub spans 3,000 sq m and seven floors.

While the showroom’s palatial proportions provide plenty of room to house all of the Plein lines – which include Philipp Plein Woman, Man, Junior and accessories – the top floor also houses Plein’s own office, which boasts an enviable view of Milan’s Duomo.

Describing the space as ‘a sequence of changing perspectives and panoramas’, Pironi has created a number of different zones or departments defined by use of material and colour. ‘The design for the Plein showroom is the expression of the desire to create a different experience for all who visit it,’ explains the architect. ‘These environments, seen both individually and as a whole, communicate a feeling of extreme, audacious luxury by way of a design based on prized materials, artful pairings and creative use of proportions.’

These prized materials include decadent surfaces such as the dazzling white Carrara marble which lines the womenswear department, smoked grey chamered mirrors in menswear and African teak with a high gloss lacquer in the formalwear zone. Naturally, typically Plein-esque interventions abound – a Swarovski-encrusted skull greets visitors in the foyer while a giant golden teddy bear and tall tubes full of sweets keep children entertained in the satin-finish brass-lined junior department.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Philipp Plein website

ADDRESS

Phillip Plein
Via dei Giardini, 21
Milan

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Scene setting: This season, Philipp Plein’s extravagant showmanship was upheld to the same lofty standards, providing his audience and throngs of wanna-be-invitees gathered outside for the aftershow party with a sprawling circus of entertainment, the largest he’s ever erected in Milan. There were pink flamingos, magic mushrooms, giant ice cream trucks, and an enormous twinkling carousel that jingled with delight. R&B queen Fergie entered into the playland through a towering ghetto blaster in a chauffeur-driven Cadillac, booming her song M.I.L.F. $.

Mood board: Plein called his over-the-top party 'Alice in Ghettoland', a name only he could invent and a concept only he could deliver. It was a mix of hip-hop pluck, girlish delight, dreamer fantasy and it all came showered in layers of glittering gold.

Best in show: As usual, all of the entertainment action made focusing on the clothes a challenge. But no matter, Plein worries far less about a hemline than he does his overall vibe.  This season’s hip-hop honeys looked best in their crocodile printed, embellished tracksuits and ropes of gold jewellery.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Prada: Mrs Prada once again partnered with Dutch studio AMO to build a backdrop for her menswear showcase at the Fondazione Prada complex. Decked out in hiking-inspired attire, models strode up and then down a continuous metal mesh ramp to a 1990s soundtrack.

Gucci: A huge serpent motif slithered along Alessandro Michele’s green-carpeted runway at Gucci this season. Deep-buttoned benches and wall panels upholstered in green velvet lined the space, while green lighting paired with a delicate mist created a totally immersive fashion experience

Acne Studios: For a collection that served as a tribute to the emptiness of the Swedish summer, Acne Studios staged a game of musical chairs within the dilapidated library space at Paris’ Lycée Charlemagne. Old-fashioned metal-legged school chairs were scattered along the runway with square mirrors placed on the floor in between them, reflecting the crumbling frescoes above. Meanwhile, multicoloured filters placed over the windowpanes created welcome chequerboards of colour against the peeling plasterwork and worn floorboards

Fendi: The holiday snaps of Pablo Picasso and David Hockney provided the inspiration for Fendi’s S/S 2017 outing. Decked out in terry cloth robes and striped totes, models made their way around a crisp-edged blue pool headed up by a bright yellow diving emblazoned with the Fendi logo

Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci presented his S/S 2017 menswear collection for Givenchy in the courtyard of Paris’ Lycée Janson de Sailly. Black and white cube-shaped stools, which echoed the optic checkerboard patterns in the collection, were laid out in three concentric circles to form the schoolyard catwalk

Dior Homme: Following on from last season’s skateboard ramps, Dior Homme returned to the Tennis Club de Paris with a rollercoaster set that swooped around the runway. Festooned with coloured light bulbs, Kris Van Assche’s fashion fun fair was designed to evoke the atmosphere of the Sinksenfoor amusement park in Antwerp, Belgium.

Moncler Gamme Bleu: Forty mosquito-netted one-man tents were erected along Moncler’s grass-lined runway this season. The elaborate staging, complete with trees and a campfire, provided the perfect backdrop for the label’s Boy Scout camping-themed show

Ami: Bathed in a golden glow that evoked early morning light, Alexandre Mattiussi’s romantic set occupied the length of one of the long curved walls within Paris’ Grand Palais. His models, clad nonchalantly in pleated trousers, nylon hoodies and knitted sweaters, walked alongside a series of tall windows, both real and fake, complete with billowing white linen curtains and slatted shutters that filtered the hazy light.

Balenciaga: With a blue sky overhead and a clear view of the 7th arrondissement and the Eiffel Tower on the horizon, the dazzling atrium of Paris’ Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague served as the setting for Balenciaga’s first ever men’s runway show. Arranged under the atrium’s spectacular curved, lattice-framed roof, a simple set with just three rows of seating lining either side of the catwalk let the spectacular cityscape do the talking

Belstaff: Inspired by On Any Sunday, a documentary about motorcycle racing made in 1971 starring Steve McQueen, Belstaff’s S/S 2017 collection was full of references to riding and motorcycle culture – as was the set. A dirt track peppered with pine trees, a vintage pick-up truck and motorbike transported the audience straight onto a Husqvarna in the California desert

Berluti: For S/S 2017, Berluti threw a lush poolside cocktail party complete with games, burger vans, champagne bars and a host of inflatable animals. To celebrate the launch of its opulent outdoor equipment – as part of a new lifestyle collection, which included skipping ropes, dumbbells, beach rackets and a set of boules – models skateboarded through garden paths, worked out to the sounds of Donna Summer and frolicked across a makeshift swimming pool, tossing a Venezia leather frisbee

Berthold: Presented in the dark concrete basement of London’s 180 The Strand, Raimund Berthold’s S/S 2017 collection was built around the outsized proportions of an old French cavalry coat. To reflect this, his minimalistic set, designed once again by Justyna Kabala, was filled with angular metal frameworks draped loosely with white fabric held in place by heaps of coral-coloured sand that spilled over onto the black rubber floor

Canali: Inspired by the intersecting warps and wefts of its textured jackets, pants and knitwear, Canali’s models emerged from a spiraling web of tension cables lit with steel blue and burnt sienna lighting to match the collection’s clout palette

Mackintosh: An undulating platform made up of mirrored panels and eleven white plinths served as the catwalk at Mackintosh’s S/S 2017 presentation. As well as highlighting the details of the British heritage brand’s three-quarter length coats, the mirrored flooring reflected and amplified the Edwardian splendor of the show’s location in the Waldorf’s Palm Court

CMMN SWDN: Channeling the souks of Marrakech, designer Kimberley Harding conjured a sun-soaked market place show set for CMMN SWDN. With a sand-covered floor, makeshift market stalls in warm shades of ochre, burnt sienna and terracotta echoed the collection’s colour palette

Issey Miyake Men: The sun-baked quadrant within Paris’ Université Pierre et Marie Curie provided the perfect platform for Issey Miyake Men’s India-inspired ‘Journey from a white page’ collection. Taking advantage of its stepped grid design, models stalked up and down the steps in perfect formation to the sound of Japanese band Kikagaku Moyo who performed at the centre

Kenzo: Creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon took to Carreau du Temple, a former clothes market, to showcase the French label’s S/S 2017 offering. A raised tiled platform, sprayed with abstract graffiti lines in petrol blue, acid green and black, set the scene for a 10am Saturday morning rave with a thumping house soundtrack

Louis Vuitton: Held in the open air among the columns of Paris’ impressive Palais Royal, Louis Vuitton’s show set had no trouble in evoking the hot plains of Africa – Kim Jones’ source of inspiration for S/S 2017. Snaking around square pyramid-style seating arrangements, the subtle pink stonework provided the perfect backdrop for Jones’ sun bleached palette of brown, taupe and beige

Pal Zileri: An enormous backdrop burning with bright magenta and green created a horizon-like effect for Pal Zileri’s sharp tailoring. Models walked out silhouetted against the screen before taking their turn along a spotlit, v-shaped runway

Philipp Plein: The designer’s ‘Sportsworld Spectacular’ themed show got underway on a basketball court set created by Simon Costin. Backdropped by a giant screen flashing up NBA logos and player stats, the court was awash with models, NBA-mascots, a troop of neon-clad cheerleaders and a gang of slam dunk acrobats from the Harlem Globetrotters. Lights flashed, flames were fired up into the air and rapper Busta Rhymes performed – exactly the type of no-expense-spared show that we’ve come to expect from Plein

Qasimi: Over at Somerset House designer Khalid bin Sultan Al Qasimi of Qasimi drew influence from the Gulf War and contemporary architecture for his collection ‘Videogames Wars’. Inspired by the undulating titanium facade of Gehry’s Guggenheim in Bilbao, a riveted metal platform conceived by set designer Andrea Cellerino served as a rippling sand dune in Qasimi’s dystopian desert

Sacai: Held in an all-white orangerie-cum-art gallery space at the Jardin du Luxembourg, Chitose Abe’s Clockwork Orange-inspired collection for Sacai was paraded around strategically placed heaps of beige gravel that created a Mars-esque landscape

Thom Browne: The designer welcomed guests to a perfectly square gothic tropical island complete with its own black palm tree and glittering black sands for his S/S 2017 outing. Models dressed in wet suits, as seagulls and as birds of paradise added to the jovial atmosphere – as did the suited model wearing a shark head who opened the show to the Jaws soundtrack.

Valentino: Returning to their usual stately spot at Paris’ Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino presented a collection that they said was inspired by ‘the Shakespearean world transformed into an emotional alchemy’. Contrasting the opulent surrounds with rough timber clad bench seating, the simple set design reflected the collection’s languid, intentionally ‘undone’ mood

Thomas Pink: The house used a gravity-defying wall of chairs to showcase its S/S 2017 presentation at the ICA in London. Nonchalantly sitting on non-descript white-painted wooden chairs suspended across a blue-tiled wall, were 15 impeccably half-dressed men in a range of shirts, crisp boxer shorts, long, fine-gauge socks and leather lace-up shoes

MSGM: Cool knits and bright gingham checks were the name of the game at MSGM where designer Massimo Giorgetti pasted together colour-blocked striped sweaters and big, boxy gingham tunics giving a bright punch to banged up, holey tennis shoes that looked like they were taken straight out of your older brother’s 10th grade closet

Gucci: Against a backdrop of leprechaun green, Alessandro Michele presented the next gen of Gucci slipper, this season fit for Liberace

Fratelli Rossetti: For S/S 2017 Fratelli Rossetti headed to the Hamptons. Fringe details ran throughout, adding a decorative touch to timeless loafers. The brand's signature hand dyeing technique conjured up colours reminiscent of the resort area's sand dunes, amber sunsets, blue seas and Long Island green lawns

Calvin Klein Collection: The spring collection posed a luxe riff on sportswear staples, rethinking the denim and varsity jacket in more luxurious fabrications including an unexpected satin sheen

Fendi: A cool pool of water set the scene at the brand's Milan headquarters for the debut of a multitude of holiday footwear ideas.

Bertoni 1949: The leather goods brand took to the skies for S/S 2017 with hand painted airplane motifs soaring over travel bags to briefcases. A new addition to the collection came in the form of a luxurious leather backpack

Woolrich: This season Woolrich team up with Australian cycle brand Deus on their first bike. The E-bike is equally at home being ridden in the city as it is in the great outdoors. The bike also comes with a saddle and handlebars made by Brooks

Emporio Armani: Giorgio Armani called his Emporio show 'a tense and sharp collection' fit for a 'pulsating metropolis'. It was indeed sharp, and focused on its cool urban mission thanks to a terrific, steady palette of always-right navy blue, denim blue and sage green.

Moncler Gamme Bleu: Mosquito netted tents lined Moncler’s grass-lined runway for a Boy Scout camping-themed show. Photography: Antonio Camera

CP Company: The original Italian sportswear brand continued to push the boundaries of outerwear this season. Fabric innovation was high on the agenda with the introduction of a technical linen that was waterproof yet retains the fabrics characteristic irregularities and organic appearance. This season also saw the addition of trousers and other separates to the brand's outerwear lexicon

Tod's: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod's presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. A field jacket made of the finest leather came brushed with colour reminiscent of a Mark Rothko painting, while the rubber pebbled sole of the iconic Gommino moccasin appeared as a motif on a black suede weekend bag

Missoni: The Italian house had a great Guatemalan moment for next spring, borrowing colourful upholstery-like fabrics for its oversized shorts, chic tank tops and multi-hue woven Huarache sandals.

Boglioli: The brand’s moody colour palette of sea greens, rust browns and slate grey was reverberated in the grandiose ceiling of Palazzo Archinto.

Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier’s S/S 2017 accessory collection looked even more dynamic close-up.

Rossignol: This season Rossignol moved from the slopes and headed to the court. High performance fabrics such as tech nylon, neoprene and parachute poplin were used to elegant effect on super light down jackets, Bermuda shorts and raincoats

Santoni: Shoe brand Santoni employed the help of critic and curator Angelo Flaccavento to create an intriguing installation, where viewers looked through a series of peep holes to view the collection. The iconic Santoni double buckle appeared on boots and as a clip for fridges, while slender lace-ups came with hand-sewn soles and slippers morphed into espadrilles

Prada: Mrs Prada’s leisure luxe show theme carried through to the sporting set and industrial mesh invitation.

Caruso: Italian tailoring brand Caruso continued to push the boundaries of luxury menswear for S/S 2017. Standout items included a softly tailored jacket hand painted with a flora motif and a series of broken suits that clashed bold checks and stripes

Philipp Plein: The ‘Sportsworld Spectacular’ show came complete with Harlem Globetrotters, 20 cheerleaders, three mascots and one rapper in Busta Rhymes

Bally: Creative director Pablo Coppola described his S/S 2017 outing as 'Happy luxury'. The collections mood board was bristling with a host of disparate references from Bianca Jagger in the 1970s to David Hockney and Daidō Moriyama’s graphic works. Standouts included printed silk shirts covered in motifs inspired by achieve Bally advertisements and candy coloured accessories

Neil Barrett: Milan’s king of cool sportswear refracted his always-athletic lens through the 1970s throwing together great suede and leather intarsia jackets and cool high-waisted stretch pants.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Ferragamo introduced ‘Tramezza’, its new made to measure shoe services in Milan's stylish Giacomo Bistrot restaurant

Brunello Cucinelli: The designer continued his exploration and evolution of menswear staples for S/S 2017. Blazers in the finest fabrics were paired with easy, drawstring trousers, while the humble t-shirt and polo were elevated to luxury heights. A pale grey bomber made in what looked like suede corduroy was a standout

Kiton: Alongside showcasing a collection that focused on relaxed lightweight suiting, Napolese tailoring band Kiton expanded their handmade footwear line with the addition of several new styles. Standouts included a selection of hand dyed shoes making no pair the same

Dolce & Gabbana: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana looked to the world of music for S/S 2017’s inspiration, taking us on a journey from the Jazz Age to 1980's Hip-Hop. Oversized streetwear tees and sweatshirts were mashed up with boxy jackets and slim cropped trousers, while graphic prints depicting cassette tapes and saxophones hit all the right notes. Standout accessories included boom box bags, chunky sneakers and print covered headphones.

Dolce & Gabbana: Nine giant sized metal frond, standing lamps lined the runway at Dolce & Gabbana

Church’s: The cobbler revisited its iconic Shanghai shoe by adding canvas details alongside introducing a boot style in two-tone leather

Massimo Piombo: The designer’s shop, the former studio of prolific architect Gae Aulenti, was filled with colourful flowers to match his signature peacock tailoring

Giuseppe Zanotti: Building on the brand’s luggage line, Giuseppe Zanotti introduced a collection of sleek neoprene back packs this season, while shoes and sneakers came covered in camo print fit for an urban survivalist

Ports 1961: Milan Vukmirovic kicked off Men's Fashion Week in Milan with a presentation in an old warehouse down the street from the Prada Foundation on the city’s outskirts

Andrea Pompilio: Big stripes are not big fashion news but Milan-based fashion designer Andrea Pompilio nonetheless made them feel very fresh with his mix of scales, configurations and fabrics, throwing together silk bottoms, knit tops and sturdy cotton Bermudas in always cool-hues of graphic black and white

Scene setting: Philipp Plein's ‘Sportsworld Spectacular’ themed show started with nearly 40 minutes of pre-show entertainment including a gang of slam dunk acrobats from the Harlem Globetrotters spinning the ball and flying through the air, a troop of 20 plus cheerleaders in glowing neon and black leopards doing back flips, three sports-style mascots, a formal announcer and the rapper Busta Rhymes who treated the audience to a full musical performance before any clothes hit the runway.

Best in show: News on the fashion front was that Plein brought in colour for the first time introducing yellow and green into his normally pitch black palette. He also introduced his latest acquisition of the aptly named brand Billionaire Couture.

Finishing touches: LED flashing sneakers, big leather duffle bags carried by hand, and mirrored aviator sunglasses that matched the tattoos covering the entire torso of one guy, all fuelled this sports fantasy line up.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

2

Models at Hussein Chalayan’s Paris show who took a shower on the catwalk, allowing their soluble clothes to melt away

12

BMX bikers and professional skateboarders catching some air on the ramps at Jimmy Choo’s menswear show, held inside a London leisure centre

19

Giant Roman arches on the Kenzo catwalk with models sweeping through on a conveyor belt

80

Crushed cars, 12 motorcycles popping wheelies, one monster truck, two spinning cop cars and two BMWs exploding into flames at Philipp Plein’s men’s show

20

A-listers playing blackjack and roulette at Chanel’s casino set in Paris’ Grand Palais shows

3

Lifesized fake carwashes, featuring fluffy rotating brushes and bubble machines, on Jeremy Scott’s runway at Moschino

700

Plexiglas panelshanging from the ceiling at the Prada men’s show      

200

Metres of carpet printed with snakes and roses and 14 bespoke upholstered screens on the catwalk at Gucci

30

Buddhist monks, in matching red robes, chanting before the start of Prabal Gurung’s women’s show

100,000

People who attended New York fashion week versus 2.4 million people who live-streamed the shows at home

1

Designer down during a post-show runway lap: Tommaso Aquilano, of Aquilano Rimondi, tripped and face-planted in Milan

820

Free tickets that Givenchy gave to the public on a first-come, first-served basis to its women’s show in New York

12

Strong, female, professional dancers carrying other women like backpacks and papooses at the Rick Owens’ show

7

Earth mountains created by artist Maya Lin for Phillip Lim’s New York show

50

Oriental rugs hanging from the ceiling of the harem-like show space at Antonio Marras

136

Digital ‘windows’ flashing videos of clouds, rain storms, blue skies, lights and models walking at the Canali men’s show

17

Miniature outfits hanging on a lifesized fake tree installed inside Milan’s 18th century Palazzo Clerici for Agnona

10

Colour-blocked tents created by Danish artist FOS for Phoebe Philo’s Céline show

17

Miniature outfits hanging on a lifesized fake tree installed inside Milan’s 18th century Palazzo Clerici for Agnona

3

Giant robots who dressed models on a conveyor belt after Courtney Love had performed Celebrity Skin at Philipp Plein’s women’s show

120

Lucky guests treated to a private dance performance by six Michael Clark Company dancers wearing Pringle menswear at Galleria Sozzani in Milan

6

Hours for carpenters to build a lifesized section of Sou Fujimoto’s House N inside Paris’ Grand Palais for Akris

 16

Oars on each of the two boats at the rowing-inspired Moncler Gamme Bleu men’s show

4

Mariachi singers belting out songs during Brian Atwood’s presentation at Milan’s Museo Bagatti Valsecchi

40

Bare-chested men, in knee-high socks and shiny shoes, reading newspapers in deckchairs in the courtyard before the Berluti show

20,000

Gallons of water to fill the mini lagoon in which the models frolicked at Tommy Hilfiger’s New York show

300

LED water lilies on the runway at Giorgio Armani  

8.5

Height in feet of the giant Balthus cat on the runway at Arthur Arbesser’s show in Milan. It was later cut into three pieces and taken home by the Austrian designer

1

Cheeky selfie taken by Alexander Wang in front of a pool of water during his final show for Balenciaga

3,000

Electric blue delphiniums planted on a temporary hill (that took 30 days to build) in the middle of the Louvre’s Cour Carrée for the Dior show

40

Models at Dolce & Gabbana who took to the runway with cellphones in hand, snapping selfies

Mood board: Philipp Plein dubbed his show #PleinHero, drawing on the super human powers of building-leaping action figures (not to mention their likeness which was air brushed across spray painted leather biker jackets and skateboards) but the mood here was distinctly more street and edgy than cartoony.

Best in show: Plein has always created sportswear but this season he graduated to pieces that looked expensive and beautifully made. Great looking chunky cable knit sweatpants were worn with cool oversized hooded anoraks and paired up with gold earphones, gold studded skateboards, and wide brim hats - which sounds an awful lot like overkill but actually gelled into a solid look.

Scene setting: Plein's fixation with the fashion show spectacle has not lessened. This season he warmed his guests up with a Star Wars anthem played by a 40-piece live classical orchestra built into an enormous metal scaffolding, before rapper Lil Wayne came out for a brief rap and then quickly disappeared backstage. The pre-show entertainment concluded with daredevil BMX bikers and skateboarders who flew and flipped over ramps in the middle of the runway while illuminated by necklaces of pearl lights.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mood board: It was a high tech punk heaven as Philipp Plein delivered his latest blockbuster show in Milan that set man against machine – or, to be more precise, robot against woman. Plein’s woman is a fierce, fearless one who is a warrior on the streets as well as the nightclubs – she’s thrown out her high heels for spiked flat boots and studded up platforms and she’s got enough leather and silver to fill up a band of high-end Harley’s Angels.

Scene setting: An enormous conveyor belt was set up inside a huge warehouse on the outskirts of Milan where models were ‘assembled’ like packaged goods by gigantic swinging machines, as if at a car manufacturer. If that weren’t enough Plein also stationed a robot band called CompressorHead, a musical group of non-humans whose metal heads bounced back and forth as they punched on drums and hammered on their guitars. Next? A screaming live concert by none other than Courtney Love. It was unreal, as usual, and setting the bar ever higher for master showman Plein.

Best in show: Plein has never met a silver stud he doesn’t love and this season – dubbed #PleinPunk could not have been any different.  Though the oversized vintage men’s jackets looked great with rows of pyramids and triangles, it was really the finale of dresses and bib necklaces that were covered in a densely tangled web of silver metal nails, spikes, studs, and pins that looked the coolest.

INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

It was a high tech punk heaven as Philipp Plein delivered his latest blockbuster show in Milan that set man against machine – or, to be more precise, robot against woman. Plein’s woman is a fierce, fearless one who is a warrior on the streets as well as the nightclubs – she’s thrown out her high heels for spiked flat boots and studded up platforms and she’s got enough leather and silver to fill up a band of high-end Harley’s Angels.

Brought to life by Thierry Dreyfus' production company Eyesight, an enormous conveyor belt was set up inside a huge warehouse on the outskirts of Milan where models were ‘assembled’ like packaged goods by gigantic swinging machines, as if at a car manufacturer. If that weren’t enough Plein also stationed a robot band called CompressorHead, a musical group of non-humans whose metal heads bounced back and forth as they punched on drums and hammered on their guitars. Next? A screaming live concert by none other than Courtney Love. It was unreal, as usual, and setting the bar ever higher for master showman Plein.

2

Kickboxers throwing punches at a live match hosted by Snoop Dogg, who rapped his heart out in front of tattooed, motocross-padded models at Philipp Plein’s men’s show

5

Hunchbacked models at Maison Margiela

8

Metal cage-covered rooms, of varying proportions, built by OMA for the Prada men’s show space

1

‘Boob bag’, handcrafted from dark shiny leather, on Christopher Lemaire’s runway (‘Free the nipple!’ cried social media immediately afterwards)

7

Thugged-out Looney Tunes characters dripping in bling at Jeremy Scott’s women’s Moschino show

32

Kilograms of culatello consumed by 1,000 people in three hours, together with 170 bottles of Fortana del Taro red wine, at Caruso’s Milan presentation

1

Rising section of the runway at Saint Laurent, where models and rock star Julia Cumming from Sunflower Bean started their catwalk procession

9

Male models blatanly flashing their genitalia in frontal windows strategiacally cut out of their flowing floor-length tunics at Rick Owens

1.1

Million followers on Instagram for 29-year-old Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing, the most-followed fashion designer in France

13,000

Hands that work on Kiton’s suits

2

Kickboxers throwing punches at a live match hosted by Snoop Dogg, who rapped his heart out in front of tattooed, motocross-padded models at Philipp Plein’s men’s show

2,000

Trees and plants that Ermenegildo Zegna planted inside Milan’s former Fiera for its fashion show, all of which were later replanted as part of the Zegna Oasis environmental project

6

Models swaddled in a cocoon of white bows at the Comme des Garçons show

27

Headdresses in the shape of lampshades at Junya Watanabe

14

Years after their first outing that Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson reprised their Zoolander roles by staging a surprise live runway walk-off at the Valentino show in Paris

10

Boys at Gucci doing the girl thing in silky bow-front blouses

1

Mary J Blige impromptu concert, staged by DSquared2’s Dean and Dan Caten at the end of the brand’s 20th anniversary show in Milan

38

Moncler Gamme Bleu menswear models who quick-changed out of their jockey-inspired uniforms into totally new looks under flashing strobe lights

4

Kanye West charity concert nights organised by Bernard Arnault’s son Alexandre at the Louis Vuitton Foundation during Paris Fashion Week

13

Face and ear piercings on the female models at Givenchy, while four men had their mouths held tightly shut with cage-like metal clamps

25

Couples (both hetero and gay) dressed for 25 sports at Moncler Grenoble’s pop-up ski lodge in New York, including a bride and groom in full wedding outerwear

12

Days to assemble Chanel’s pop-up brasserie set inside Paris’ Grand Palais, which featured 9m-high walls, tiled floors, 100 seats and 14 barmen serving coffee, juice, champagne and croissants

1

Life-sized, fully functioning roller coaster, complete with screaming riders, installed inside Milan’s retired Fiera for Philipp Plein’s womenswear show

50,000

Books in the pop-up library at Julie de Libran’s Sonia Rykiel show

72

Age of ex-model Benedetta Barzini, who was the star of Antonio Marras’ runway show

7

Spinning 20ft towers that glided across the Kenzo runway like giant chess pieces

14

Infants, toddlers and children, plus one very pregnant model, walking the runway at Dolce & Gabbana’s women’s show

32

Fur handbags in the shape of bird of paradise flowers on the Fendi runway

6,000

Rare pearls on a $150,000 Calvin Klein dress, which was stolen from the hotel room of actress Lupita Nyong’o after the Oscars

8

Models wearing cashmere shoe laces at the Brunello Cucinelli presentation

2

Handbags shaped and printed like ceramic coffee saucers at Chanel

The German born, Swiss-based fashion designer Philipp Plein has zoomed into Milan's fashion scene like a bat out of hell and even now, three years after his arrival, his gargantuan showmanship shows no signs of slowing. Saturday night's concert-like spectacle took place at an empty car park in the southernmost district of the city (a hop away from the new Prada Foundation), which the designer transformed into an amusement park for grown up boy toys that blew ear drums out and exploded into the kind of flames and fireworks reserved for Hollywood blockbusters. 

Visitors were first greeted by five motorcycle drivers that were zooming around a metal spherical cage like supersonic flies, causing guests to cover their eyes in fear of witnessing one of them getting squashed into a pulp. 'They're world record holders from Barcelona,' Plein explained of the daredevils, who somehow remained intact. 'You can even stand in the bottom of the cage if you want. I saw something like it at a circus and thought it'd be cool for the show.'

As for the 80 wrecked cars that littered the rest of the location, Plein fished those out of a junkyard in Milan (actually, he bought the two Rolls-Royces off the internet) and wrapped them up in fancy gold and silver foil. They made an obstacle course, of sorts, for 12 noisy motorcycle riders who later zoomed around them popping wheelies, before 2 BMWs came tearing down the lane on their sides, left wheels only touching the ground, before having their entire backseats explode into flames.

The live combustion was followed by a couple of siren-blazing cop cars that burned rubber as they chased themselves around in tiny circles, like excited little dogs, before ejecting a rapper who gave a live concert before the 1200 guests. If this wasn't enough, a monster truck barreled over the car line-up, crushing the cars where they weren't already and finishing off in a shower of exploding spark-plug fireworks.

Plein spent a fortune on this James Cameron-esque spectacle that lasted less than 30 minutes. 'A fashion show is like a funeral,' he says, 'it's the culmination of five months of work and as soon as it's done, it's onto the next season.' Despite his role as Milan's fashion week entertainer, Plein says he's not much of a party guy.  'I don't need a show for me. If I wanted to spend 2 million euros on myself I'd buy an apartment,' he says. 'This is a way to say thank you to my best clients and employees. I'm not selling clothes,' he continues. 'I'm selling a dream.'

Scene setting: Philipp Plein fished 80 cars out of a Milan junk yard, covered them in gold and silver foil and then had a gold monster truck ram over them, that ended up exploding into a burst of firework flames before a live audience of 1200 people. In between all of this, 12 mohawked motorcycle riders did wheelies, 2 BMWs rode on their left two wheels only, and 2 police cars chased each other in circles like screaming mosquitoes before a rapper came out to holler a hip hop song.

Mood board: The mood of the show was just as delinquent and aggressive as the set. The designer called it Plein Punk, which meant tons of ripped jeans, motorcycle jackets and slacker shirts.

Finishing touches: Plein has never met a silver stud he didn't love. He covered every inch of his black leather backpacks, high top booties and leather gloves with a blanket of sharp metal.

Rick Owens: Everyone at fashion week has seen a fringe or two in their time, whether it's sported by a catwalk model, famous face or even a handbag. But an invitation? That's novel, even to us. Rick Owens is to thank for this one, sending a suede-covered, embossed board coated in deep tan and mouse grey suede, fringed by - you guessed it - a trim of luscious locks. Bonkers and brilliant in equal measure

Anya Hindmarch: The doyenne of tongue-in-cheek, Hindmarch sent a miniature textured leather road sign attached to a spot-varnished card, warning us of the dressed-up diversions that lay ahead. It seems she may have tempted fate; the show indeed held London's fashion crowd up, though the eventual M25-inspired runway-meets-motorway (and Little Chef breakfast) more than made up for it

In the case of today's fashion week show system there are numerous ways to make an impression. Of course, there's the clothes, but it's often hard to separate them from the spectacle: the venues, the sets within said spectacular world-class locations, the It girl models, all-star front row and cutting-edge soundtrack.

Speak to any fashion week professional and they're bound to tell you they were blown away by one aspect of the above, but it's often the music that makes show goers crack a smile or even shed a tear.

The former happened at Miu Miu's Paris show, when fashion's go-to producer Frédéric Sanchez worked those 1990s L'Oréal Studio Line hair gel ads into his mix, and the latter during the crisp vocals of Dries Van Noten's a cappella track list that united some of the world's most influential female artists - all of which have touched the designer's life. The effect was as haunting as it was charmingly real, thanks to the clopping of the models' shoes in between each vocalist's pause to breathe.

To get the lowdown on the season's sound codes we caught up with Frédéric Sanchez who devised the playlists for Alexander Wang and Victoria Beckham in New York, Mary Katranzou and Thomas Tait in London, Prada and Missoni in Milan and  Balmain, Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons and Acne Studios in Paris, among many others...

Wallpaper*: What were the season's music movements for you?
Frédéric Sanchez: I do not try to follow any trends. I try as much as possible to follow my own instinct and make very personal soundtracks. But looking back at what I have done I see that some key elements came back: digital primitive sounds mix with an analogue urban soundscape - sometimes poetic and sometimes aggressive.

W*: Was there a particular musical genre that appealed?
FS: No particular genre but maybe more than other season this time I went back to what is the signature of my work, which means a lot of collage and a way to edit music very roughly.

W*: Which artists were of most interest this season?
FS: David Byrne, Eliane Radigue, Alice Coltrane, Holly Herndon....

W*: Was there one musical 'moment' that stood out?
FS: I don't know if it was musical but I got a lot of emotion at Comme Des Garçons and at Miu Miu - it was almost like if you freeze a moment of your life in your memories.

Wallpaper*'s Top 20 of the Season...

Acne Studios
'Garde Le Pour Toi' by Paradis
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Boss
'Go' by Moby; 'Fleeting Beauty' by Terence Fixmer; 'Little Hands' by Endless Melancholy; 'Cvalda' by Björk; 'Here She Comes Again' by Röyksopp and Jamie Irrepressible

Burberry Prorsum
'Give Me' by Clare Maquire; 'Will You Love Me Tomorrow' by Clare Maquire; 'House Of The Rising Sun' by Clare Maquire; 'My Sweet Lord' by Clare Maquire

Céline
'Cucurrucucu Paloma' by Caetano Veloso; 'Kodiak' by Boozoo Bajou

Comme Des Garçons
'The Trees' by Max Richter; 'Arboretum' by Max Richter; 'Iconography' by Max Richter; 'On The Nature Of The Daylight' by Max Richter
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Dior
'The Apartment' by Giorgio Moroder; 'Erstes Buch: Desterieh l'Remm' by Oake; 'Hot On The Heels Of Love' by Throbbing Gristle; 'Title' by Disasterpeace; 'Cherry Red' by Barnt

Dries Van Noten
'Teardrops (a capella)' by Massive Attack; 'Rapture (a capella)' by Blondie; 'My Baby Shot Me Down (a capella)' by Nancy Sinatra; 'La Javanaise (a capella)' by Jane Birkin; 'Glory Box (a capella)' by Portishead; 'White Rabbid (a capella)' by Jefferson Airplane; 'Celebrity Skin (a capella)' by Hole; 'Independent Women Pt 1 (a capella)' by Destiny's Child; 'Rude Boy (a capella)' by Rihanna; 'Get Ur Freak On (a capella)' by Missy Elliott; 'All the Lovers (a capella)' by Kylie Minogue; 'Who'd Have Known (a capella)' by Lily Allen; 'Hidden Place (a capella)' by Björk; 'Teardrops' by Massive Attack

Dsquared2
'Frog Darts' by James Horner; 'Ball' by Craig Armstrong; 'Drumming Circle' by Professor Trance; 'Cum Dederit' by Armand Amar and Sandrine Piau; 'The Hanging Tree Rebel Remix' by James Newton Howard; 'American Dream' by Jakatta; 'Dead Already' by Thomas Newman; 'RA' by Nathan Lanier; 'Sand' by Nathan Lanier

Tommy Hilfiger
'Bootylicious' by Destiny's Child; 'Work It' by Missy Elliott; 'Mo Money Mo Problems' by Notorious BIG; 'OPP' by Naughty by Nature; 'I Want You Back' by Jackson 5; '1 Thing' by Amerie; 'Try Again' by Aaliyah; 'Crazy In Love' by Beyonce and Jay Z

Kenzo
'You Don't Own Me' by Saint Etienne; 'After The Rain' by Saint Etienne

Lacoste
'Nouveau Western' by Mc Solaar; 'Stash's Theme' by Jack Dice and Stash Marina; 'Seul Face A Lui' by IAM and RZA; 'Brye Ting' by Suicideyear and Honeycoma; '7/11' by Beyonce; 'Realla' by Tokimonsta and Anderson Paak
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Louis Vuitton
'Desert Of The Soul' by Andy Garbi; 'Genesis' by Grimes; 'I Had This Thing (Surkin Remix)' by Röyksopp
Music production: Leopold Ross and Michel Gaubert

Marc Jacobs
'Children Of The Revolution' by T-Rex; 'Fight The Power' by Public Enemy; 'Born Free' by M.I.A; 'I Fought The Law' by The Clash; 'Instant Karma' by John Lennon

Marni
'Night (Zola Jesus and Dean Hurley Remix)' by John Carpenter; 'Lost Themes' by John Carpenter; 'Mechanical Ballet' by Arnaud De Buchy
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Mary Katrantzou
'Foil' by Autechre; 'Halloween Main Theme-Mix 1' by Gareth Williams; 'Teartear' by Autchre; 'Gloria Eterna' by Nana Mouskouri
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Miu Miu
'Mea Culpa' by Brian Eno & David Byrne; 'America Is Waiting' by Brian Eno & David Byrne; 'The Jezebel Spirit' by Brian Eno & David Byrne; 'One In A Lifetime' by Talking Heads; 'Burning Down The House' by Talking Heads; 'Deep Sleep' by B 52's; 'Advertisement Tempo Magazine' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement Network 21' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement Pure Sex' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement The Sputnik corporation' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement ID Magazine' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement Studio Line From L'Oréal' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement EMI records' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik; 'Advertisement Love Missile F1-11' by Sigue Sigue Sputnik
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Philipp Plein
'Heavy Metal' by Azealia Banks; 'Reflective' by Azealia Banks'; Sympathy For The Devil' by The Rolling Stones; 'My Sharona' by The Knack; 'Blitzkrieg Bop' by The Ramones; 'Surfin' Bird' by The Trashmen; 'Blue Orchid' by The White Stripes

Rodarte
'The Rip' by Portishead; 'Blind' by Michael Gira; 'Run To Me' by Bee Gees; 'Louise' by Clan of Xymox

Saint Laurent
'Pretty Boy' by The Felines

Stella McCartney
'Running Behind' by Holychild; 'Version 2.0' by Hannah V and Ama Schreyer; 'Goldteeth' by Red Light; 'We Go To Work' by Snappy Jit; 'Little Lotto' by Alo Wala and Nucleya; 'Baiana' by Barbatuques

Givenchy: We returned to last season's high school hall for Riccardo Tisci's A/W jumble show. A miscellaneous match of items including arcade games, helmets and out-of-date TV screens decorated the multi-coloured court lines of the Parisian sports hall. The assembled audience watched from a range of velvet armchairs or foldaway garden chairs

Louis Vuitton: For the French brand's second run at its impressive Louis Vuitton Fondation location, all the action was transported outside to an installation of transparent, Buckminster Fuller-esque domes

Louis Vuitton: Designed by Es Devlin, the geodesic structure's seating was splashed with a mix of futuristic tangerine, brown and stark white as natural sunlight flooded the catwalk

Thakoon: Thai-American designer Panichgul Thakoon joined forces with Jonathan Beck on behalf of Dizon Inc to play with high impact colour for Thakoon's A/W set. Tinted film room dividers created a somewhat psychedelic effect as light bounced off them in all directions

Chanel: The luxury brand once again fulfilled expectations (and appetites) with its transformation of the Grand Palais into the 'Brasserie Gabrielle'. Three operational pop-up bars were equipped with Parisian waiters, coffee and newspapers, while the space was set with red leather banquets, wood boiserie panelling and bistro tiled flooring.

Prada: Pastel hues and metallic panelling turned Via Fogazzaro into a futuristic realm for Miuccia Prada's A/W offering

Prada: The show's 'Softer Pop' clothes floated through Mrs Prada's pastel space odyssey made up of diamond shaped silver flooring and ceilings

1205: Palm trees and tumbling foliage were the striking accoutrements to 1205's greenhouse show. The Barbican Centre's central conservatory provided a jungle escape for Paula Gerbase's utility inspired collection. The contrast of brutalism and green leafage set a serene scene for the elegantly tailored collection.

Dsquared2: In comparison to the past season where set designer Stefano Grossi re-created an actual apartment interior for the Caten twin's show, for A/W he went with a more graphic approach. A heavenly white staircase cascaded from a dimly lit, tiled marble entrance from which the models stormed the venue

Edun: New York's Skylight event space was left unembellished for this season's Edun show, leaving the venue's Stefan Beckman block installation to take centre stage. The set designer's studio created twin geometric structures that provided a narrow entrance for Edun's multi-cultural collection

Moncler Grenoble: On Valentine's Day evening we were welcomed into Moncler's 'love factory' inside the Duggal Greenhouse warehouse space within the Brooklyn Navy Yard. Set against a crimson draped backdrop, the action took place about a vibrant red, heart-shaped box. This later opened to reveal an array of his 'n' her Moncler outfits, each primed for a winter sport, before the male and female models took part in a kissing finale

Opening Ceremony: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim once again partnered up with Spike Jonze for their latest unorthodox showcase. This season, the white washed walls of New York's Cheim & Read gallery were plastered with a collage of photography by the American creative, which included profile images of both actresses and musicians

Tommy Hilfiger: There was a rush of all-American spirit surrounding the Tommy Hilfiger show in New York. For the brand's 30th anniversary Randall Peacock's design studio transformed the Park Avenue Armory into a Gridiron football field. Kitted out with 'Hilfiger' scoreboards, floodlights and even a Jumbotron, the stadium waited for the 'players' to storm down the green and compete in sportswear's finest

Dior: Upon returning to the Musée du Louvre, Raf Simons conjured a feminine glass box for Dior's A/W presentation. Producers Bureau Betak juxtaposed the soft pink flooring with thick black pillars and clean white benches, while huge windows offered striking vistas of the sandstone Cour Carrée

Wunderkind: Within the walls of the modern art emporium that is the Palais de Tokyo, autumn's Wunderkind collection was presented under a graphic mirrored enclosure. The concept, by Edwin Lemberg and Christian Weinecke, manipulated the spatial area through huge slanted mirrors that reflected faceted views of the collection around the clinical venue.

Emilio Pucci: Milan's Palazzo Serbelloni offered a palatial farewell to outgoing designer Peter Dundas. The Napoleonic room posed as a grand backdrop for Dundas' astrologically inspired collection, with its gold plating and crystal chandeliers shedding a glistening glow on all below.

Philipp Plein: In true Plein style, the showman's audience was given another thrilling performance to remember. A live music set by Azealia Banks kicked off proceedings, while a giant rollercoaster raced around the darkened theatre hall - save for the banner #pleinwarriors that shone in bright lights

Moncler Gamme Rouge: The outerwear giant took to the great outdoors for its Gamme Rouge showing at the Grand Palais. Equestrian models rode over an autumnal runway that was strewn with a patchwork of crispy brown leaves and green foliage

Kenzo: As creative sets go, Kenzo definitely rose to the occasion for A/W with its moving Paris installation. A 20-foot tall backdrop glided effortlessly across the enormous show space before splitting into six different blocks. The structures then rotated on the spot, revealing foiled metallic sides, which shone rainbow reflections onto Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's collection

Erdem: Back at London's Old Selfridges Hotel, Erdem Moralioglu enlisted the help of set designer Robin Brown to resurrect his A/W muse's fictional 1960s Parisian pied-à-terre

Erdem: Under the moody, shadowed lighting, the stained yellow wallpaper and tousled furniture brought a personal narrative to the artful presentation

Erdem: The retrofied apartment took some seven days to construct and fit-out

Versace: Dontella Versace's models arrived through a commanding red and black backdrop derived from the outer edges of the house's Medusa logo. Although the collection itself was more modest this season, the mood remained seductive thanks to the venue's dim boudoir glow and scarlet Perspex runway

Lacoste: In comparison to last season's themed set, for A/W Bureau Betak gave the spotlight to the brand's sportswear. The Lincoln Centre theatre offered a raw setting with white marking lines leading models around giant concrete pillars

Mary Katrantzou: One of the Royal Horticultural Halls was turned into a girl-power paradise for the Mary Katrantzou's presentation.

Mary Katrantzou: Bureau Betak created a spongy Barbie pink studded runway for the designer's cocktail attire to bounce over.

Proenza Schouler: The New York-based brand ran its sharply tailored collection down a stone tiled catwalk for A/W. Under low-hung lights, a backlit installation loomed over the venue's warm atmosphere.

Antonio Marras: The Milanese designer's gilt embellished set posed the perfect setting to compliment a show dedicated to Italian style icon Benedetta Barzini. Ornately printed walls offered an elaborate backdrop, while 18th century rugs marked the runway

Tod's: The Italian brand took over the Baroque setting of Milan's Palazzo Litta for its A/W runway presentation

Tod's: Deep red walls and gold seating dominated the opulent setting. The Italian brand's models entered from ceiling-high doorways as elaborate mirrors reflected the brand's A/W looks

Fendi: Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp's geometric abstractions boldy coloured both the Roman house's A/W show space and collection. Taeuber-Arp's distinctive style resonated in the graphic prints that ran along each side of the Via Solari venue

Hunter Original: Within the industrial surrounds of London's Albert Embankment Warehouse, Hunter creative director Alasdhair Willis continued his water world theme. This season, a trio of tumbling waterfalls flowed through the darkened venue

Maison Margiela: Although Paris' Grand Palais if often a rather, well, grand affair, Maison Margiela's high gloss white tunnel provided a sterile, blank canvas for John Galliano's first ready-to-wear collection

Marni: Consuelo Castiglioni 's Amazonian A/W 2015 collection was presented in an industrial-style den. The raw set space featured worn down plastered walls, rough grey pillars and a waxy red runway that drew the eye to the main event

Fashion week, these days, is about much more than just the collections. Showmanship is the name of game, and in the meticulously executed sartorial extravaganzas, the sound space is an element that no producer or designer can afford to overlook. Music royalty - past, present and future - is enlisted to ensure a full assault on the senses.

This season there were live performances by Clare Maguire at Burberry Prorsum, Mary J Blige to celebrate the Caten brothers' 20th anniversary at Dsquared2 and Snoop Dogg at Philipp Plein, while Dior Homme enlisted the Paris Scouring Orchestra, set back with electronic beats. Here, we bring you our ultimate catwalk compilation of the men's A/W 2015 show season...

Burberry Prorsum
'Cosmic Dancer', 'Whenever You Want It', 'Shadows' and 'House of the Rising Sun' performed live by Clare Maguire

Dsquared2
'Whole Lotta Love - Dubstep Edit' by Led Zeppelin; 'Back in Black' by AC/DC; 'Black Dog' by Led Zeppelin; 'We Will Rock You' by Queen; 'Weather With You' by Crowded House; 'A Place To Stand' - Ontario Canada's theme song; 'Take Off' by Bob and Doug McKenzie; 'Pass That Dutch' by Missy Elliot; 'Ehi Oh!' by Biancaneve e i sette nani; 'Wild Thing' by Devil Doll; 'The Immigrant Song' - (Streetlab mix) by Led Zeppelin; 'Smells Like Teen Spirit' by Nirvana vs Adam Freeland; 'Smells Like Teen Spirit' by (Butch vig-mix) Nirvana; 'Black Dog' by Led Zeppelin; 'Tom Sawyer' by Rush; 'Are You Gonna Go My Way' by Lenny Kravitz; 'Rebel Rebel' by David Bowie; 'Hot Child In The City' by Nick Gilder and a live performance of 'One' and 'Family Affair' by Mary J Blige

Roberto Cavalli
'Every Other Freckle' by alt-J; 'Cupid Carries a Gun' by Marilyn Manson; 'God's Whisper' by Raury; 'Cleaver Lever' by The Growl; 'Come Easy' by Sunset Sons; 'Track 20 Symphony 2808' by Nero

Giorgio Armani
'Downton Abbey theme song' by The Chamber Orchestra Of London; 'Johnny and Mary' by Todd Terje feat Bryan Ferry

Canali
'Opal' by Byetone; 'Etude N°6' by Philip Glass; 'EXhale' by Plastikman; 'Back 2 Black' by Herman Schwartz; 'Gimme some' by Weval
Music production: Matteo Ceccarini

Gucci
'Clock Tick' by Abel Korzeniowski; 'Daydreams' by Abel Korzeniowski; 'Carlos' by Shigeru Umebayashi; 'Stillness Of The Mind' by Abel Korzeniowski; 'Going Somewhere' by Abel Korzeniowski
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Philipp Plein
'Jump Around' by House of Pain; 'Thunderstruck' by AC/DC; Magnum PI main theme; 'What's My Name' and 'Drop it Like it's Hot' performed live by Snoop Dogg; 'Requiem' and 'Jungle Jazz performed live by Les Tambours du Bronx; 'The Blue Danube' by Strauss; 'The Thieving Magpie' by Rossini

Cerruti 1881
'Whisper' by David Byrne; 'Cooper Union' Dialogue by Joseph Beuys; 'Come Out' by Steve Reich; 'Straum' by Nils Okland

Valentino
'Valley of the Birds' by Emerald Web; 'The Imitation' by Alexandre Desplat; 'Hip Hop Spa' by Fatima Al Qadiri; 'Up and Down' by Koreless

Lanvin
'Science and Industry' by Andy Stott;  'Happy House' by Siouxsie and the Banshees

Maison Margiela
'Cancer For The Cure' by Eels; 'Twilight's Last Gleamings' by  William S Burroughs; 'The Night' by Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons; 'Stripes' by Bell Orchestre; 'Loaded' by Primal Scream; 'Water / Light / Shifts' by Bell Orchestre; 'Shake  the  Disease' (remastered)  by Depeche Mode; 'Let's  Wade  In  the  Water' by Marlena Shaw; 'Eight  Sum' by Amon Tobin; 'Paul's  Nightmare' by DJ Paul Elstak; 'One  Minute To Midnight' by Justice

Kris Van Assche
'Negative Creep' and 'The Magnificent Bukkake' by Koudlam
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Kenzo
'Only Love Can Break Your Heart' by Saint Etienne

Dior Homme
'Landsc Apes' by Koudlam, arrangement by Thomas Roussel and performed by Paris Scoring Orchestra

Junya Watanabe
'Oh Honey' (Original 12'' Version) by The Delegation; 'Say That You Will' by George Duke S; 'Float On' by The Floaters; 'Unicorn' by Dizzy Gillespie & Lalo Schifrin; 'Safari Vibes' by Daniele Baldelli; 'Cosmic Funk' by Lonnie Liston Smith; 'Can't Take My Eyes Off You' by John Lloyd Young

Dries Van Noten
'Be My Baby' performed by DM Stith, written by Jeff Barry, Ellie Greenwich and Phil Spector

3.1 Phillip Lim
'When I Put My Hands On You' by The New Basement Tapes; 'Reduct Live' by Skee Mask; 'Cylo' by Skee Mask; 'Security Of The First World' by Public Enemy

Paul Smith
'Snare Liftoff' by Justin Hurwitz & Tim Simonec; '54-46 Was My Number' by Toots & The Maytals; 'Witness Dub' by Roots Manuva; 'Mirror In The Bathroom' by The Beat; 'Just Can't Stop The Dub' by The Beat; 'North Of The River Thames' by Doctor Pablo and The Dub Syndicate

Comme des Garçons
Eyes Wide Shut soundtrack mixed with Alessandro Cortini electronica
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Saint Laurent
'Me Suive' by Mystere collective, written and composed by Marlon Magnée, Sacha Got and Sam Lefèvre in Brittany for Saint Laurent 'Paris Sessions'

Fashion week, these days, is about much more than just the collections. Showmanship is the name of game, and in the meticulously executed sartorial extravaganzas, the sound space is an element that no producer or designer can afford to overlook. Music royalty - past, present and future - is enlisted to ensure a full assault on the senses. Here, we bring you Milan Fashion Week's catwalk mega mix from the S/S 2015 womenwear collections.

WEDNESDAY 17/09

No 21
'Running Up That Hill' by Kate Bush; 'Come Undone' by Trentemoller; 'Love Is A Battlefield' by Pat Benatar
Music production: Mode-F

THURSDAY 18/09

Max Mara
'Requiem Pour Un Con - Remix 91' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Laide, Jolie Laide' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Pink Elephants' by Mick Harvey; 'Histoire de Melody Nelson' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Paris Quatre (Instrumental)' by Malcolm McLaren; 'Intoxicated Man' by Mick Harvey
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Emporio Armani
'Brutal Hearts (FlicFlac Radio Edit)' by Bedouin Soundclash; 'Universe Lovesong' by Laid Back; 'Neeve' by Woolfy vs Projections; 'What's My Name (Extended Disco Mix)' by The Kenneth Bager Experience & Sofie Grabol; 'Lion' by Pang!

Fendi
'Car Ambient #3' by Babe Rainbow; 'Minnesota Winter' by Babe Rainbow; 'Need This (12" Dub)' by Bok Bok Feat Trago; 'Boring Angel' by Oneohtrix Point Never; 'Cocco di Mamma' by Laura Betti
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Dsquared2
'Hideaway' by Kiesza; 'When A Fire Starts To Burn' by Disclosure; 'When A Fire Starts To Burn (C2C re-edit) by Disclosure; 'The Roof Is On Fire' by Rock Master Scott and the Dynamic Three; 'Children Of The Revolution' by Mark's; 'Boongie Drop (feat Jay Z & DJ Military' by Lenny Kravitz; 'Breathe & Stop (J Period Remix)' by J Period & Q-Tip; 'Partition' by Beyonce; 'All About That Bass' by Meghan Trainor; 'Flawless (MIA Partysquad remix)' by Beyonce; 'Wiggle' by Jason Derulo (feat Snoop Dogg); 'Flawless (MIA Partysquad remix)' by Beyonce

Prada
'Kiss Me (Maggot Brain)(Edit)' by Psychic TV & PTV3
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Ports 1961
'Down In The Traffic' by To Rococo Rot; 'Besides' by To Rococo Rot
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

FRIDAY 19/09

Sportmax
'Mambo' by Wally Badarou; 'Speechless' by Kruder & Dorfmeister; 'All Under One Roof Raving' by Jamie xx; 'Private Life (Dub version) by Grace Jones; 'Grillwalker' by Modeselektor
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Marco de Vincenzo
'We Share Our Mother's Health' by The Knife; 'Dreamy' by Go Dugong; 'Quad Boogie' by Populous; 'Fall' by Populous.
Music production: Stefani Libertini Protopapa

Missoni
'Les Ondes' by Motorbass; 'Force Marker' by Brian Eno; 'Shanzhai' by Fatima Al Qadiri
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Tod's
Speech from 'La Notte' by Michelangelo Antonioni
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Versace
'2020' by Suuns; 'All I Hear Is Drums' by Kasper Bjorke; 'Sex-O-Matic (Club)' by Melt; 'Video Fear' by Bitches From Queens

Philipp Plein
'Right Here, Right Now (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by Fat Boy Slim; 'Enjoy The Silence (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by Depeche Mode; 'Blue Monday (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by New Order

SATURDAY 20/09

Bottega Veneta
'Triumphant Procession' by Tuxedomoon; 'Libertango' by London Concertante; 'Piazolla-Libertango' by Yo-Yo Ma; 'Libertango' by The Swingle Sisters; 'I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango)' by Grace Jones
Music production: Sebastien Perrin

Giorgio Armani
'Hazey' by Glass Animals; 'Open' by Rhye; 'Candy (Steve Moore Remix)' by Lower Dens; 'Save' by Frankey & Sandrino; 'Tell Her Today' by Tom Baxter; 'Wicked Game' by Queen of Hearts; 'Last Words' by Amirali; 'Electric Sunburst (Phoreski Remix)' by Coyote; 'Blow Up' by Kid Francescoli

Roberto Cavalli
'Trap' by Camp Claude; 'Lost and Found' by Camp Claude; 'Hurricanes' by Camp Claude
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Jil Sander
'Four Solos' by Ars Nova & Tamas Veto; 'Living Room Music IV' by Ars Nova & Tamas Veto; 'Fermi' by Pan Sonic; 'Shaker Loops' by Dan Smiley, Lowendusky, Judiyaba & Ridge String Quartet; 'Release, Depart' by Scanner; 'Spacings' by Takehisa Kosugi
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Emilio Pucci
'Hey Now (Tensnake Remix)' by London Grammar; 'Hey Now (Arty Remix)' by London Grammar; 'The Cloud Atlas Sextet (Elektro RMX JK)' by Tom Tykwer, Kristjan Jarvi & MDR Sinfonieorchester; 'Ultraviolence' by Lana del Rey; 'All The Days' by Haerts; 'Dreams (Axwell remix)' by Deep Dish feat Stevie Nicks; 'Andare' by Ludovico Einaudi
Music production: Jeremy Healy

SUNDAY 21/09

Marni
'Moonrise Kingdom' by L'Orchestra Numerique
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Salvatore Ferragamo
'Teenage Lightening 2005' by Coil; 'Say Aaahh Again' by Chicago Damn; 'Mars' by Caribou; 'Merta' by Picchio Dal Pozz

It would not be a Philipp Plein show without a suitably jaw-dropping set scenario - to wit his S/S 2015 men's presentation included a pool large enough to ride jet skis in. This season Plein set adrift with an underwater wonderland spectacle, created with three-dimensional projections that plunged us into a digital oceanic abyss with a live orchestra keeping the beat. Coral formations inspired pavé studded leather biker jackets and their matching sandal sidekicks that were presented in a melange of tropical fish hues. Nautical references wrapped his Riviera-striped Fifties sundresses that had clearly just stepped off a super yacht, although we're not quite sure about his Toucan bird print's place on the ocean floor. Deep within Plein's pelagic zone, black lace and liquefied, long-sleeved cocktail sheaths were much more at home, shimmering with the weight of their crystal rock embellishments. Swimmingly dramatic, this was prime time Plein theatre - right down to the Styrofoam-filled plunge pool that later bobbed with guests.

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture: Hollow, geometric blocks created a thought-provoking backdrop for Stefano Pilati's heavily industrial show interior, conceived to reflect the designer's take on architecture and space. American lighting designer AJ Weissbard then cemented the scene's raw feel by adding a misty, sullen lighting set-up that further enhanced the season's graphic, linear silhouettes and muted colour combinations

Moncler Gamme Bleu: Designer Thom Browne staged the next instalment of his legendary sporting events for Moncler Gamme Bleu within Milan's Palazzo del Senato. For S/S, it took the form of a boxing match. Dressed in patriotic brand colours, the sparring ring delivered a knockout fashion fight if ever there was one

Dior Homme: All eyes were initially on the floor at Dior Homme's Tennis Club de Paris presentation, where colour-blocked horizontal and vertical lines met at the runway's central cross-junction. Bold primary strips interjected the floor's sandy wooden boards, reflecting the bold stripes and hyper-hued scribbles that were drawn across Kris Van Assche's S/S collection

Brioni: For S/S 2015 we watched Brendan Mullane's Los Angeles inspiration come to life in grand cinematic form. The surrounding walls of his presentation space screened films by American artist Collier Schorr, depicting scenes from the Brioni man's LA life. As a direct reflection of this image, the show's models stood on black podium structures, replicating open-plan Californian homes, looking out across the twinkling city skyline

Cerruti 1881: Lighting aficionado Thierry Dreyfus once again set the scene for Aldo Maria Camillo's menswear show. Flashing stadium-style spotlights highlighted the venue's patch-worked wooden flooring, creating a warm glow over the simple setting

Dsquared2: The Caten twins took us to the inception of their creative process for S/S 2015, setting their show within a working artist's studio. The space's theatrically hazy skylights, aged walls and half completed paintings offered the perfect canvas for their Pop art inspired collection

Dunhill: The sophisticated surrounds of John Ray's salon style S/S 2015 presentation at One Horse Guards in London allowed the Dunhill man to feel right at home. French doors flooded the space with natural sunlight, which bounced off the venue's white surrounds - from ecru ottomans to bleached wooden floorboards

Salvatore Ferragamo: A simple, rectangular blonde wood catwalk framed Ferragamo's spot-lit show space in Milan. Similar basic benches were installed for the audience, while the setting was backed by an installation of hanging wooden beams, saturated in glowing blue light

Paul Smith: This season Sir Paul returned to Paris' Bourse de Commerce to present his bohemia tinged S/S 2015 offering. Under the building's classic domed ceiling, Smith's boys were surrounded by a terracotta-potted garden of succulents and cacti that also showed up in his prints

Gucci: Frida Giannini extended a little feminine subtlety to her creamy S/S 2015 setting in the house's traditional Milanese location, directing the focus towards the show's watery digital backdrop. The predominately beige seating was also perfectly matched with the polished ecru flooring

Maison Martin Margiela: The stark grey wood and metal features of Paris' Pierre-and-Marie-Curie University provided an aptly institutional backdrop for the house's schoolboy-inspired collection

Philipp Plein: This German designer's summer pool party at via Carlo Botta was a far cry from the backyard gathering that its name usually implies. Sharks were cast as mega mascots with Plein's PP monogram proudly inscribed between the toothy critters, before all matter of water sports began. Cue synchronised swimmers and suited jet skiers thrashing through this adult water park

Kris Van Assche: The Belgium designer explored the idea of a never-ending runway for this season's set up at the Halle Freyssinet. Referencing the show's title 'Illusion', the basic surroundings of the warehouse space were heightened by an artwork at the end of the runway, featuring continuous opening doors that the models started and ended their walk through

Raf Simons: Lighting took centre stage a Raf Simons' S/S Espace Vendome show space, which was otherwise left raw and unembellished - an aesthetic that was accentuated by the omission of seating. Spotlights cast a moody red and green glow over the scene, including the standing audience, as the models weaved their way through them

Prada: The outdoors were brought inside at this season's AMO-designed Prada show space, with Mrs Prada's boys circling a striking cobalt blue pool. Surrounded by a contrasting suede brown seating gradient, the collection was poetically reflected in the azure-hued water

Versace: Donatella Versace strung up everything but the kitchen sink on the arches of her S/S 2015 men's runway in the house's Via Gesù HQ. The church-like set offered up the full weight of the brand's homewares collection. Versace bed sheets draped the walls, which were then covered in all manner of Medusa-logoed chairs, cushions, plates and lamps - no doubt an offering to the Gods of living large

Kenzo: Paris' ornate Pont Alexandre III offered a fitting backdrop to Kenzo's S/S 2015 show, which embraced the city's key icons both as a show venue and later seen through the collection's Tour Eiffel patchworks

Kenzo: With the help of Villa Eugenie, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim walked their colourful collection over the historically elaborate landmark, while the audience sat out of the rain on blocky, pale green benches

Wooyoungmi: The South Korean brand's newly appointed co-creative director Katie Chung presented an eerie, sci-fi inspired centrepiece for S/S 2015. In the show's closing sequence, draped transparencies separated the audience from the clothes, which were mystically lit by Eyesight Productions, offering a moody finale to the presentation

Y-3: A world away from last season's cleanly graphic setting, we hit the waves at Yohji Yamamoto's summer surf shack. The Couvent des Cordeliers venue's 'wooden lodge' was plastered with paint and posters decrying 'surf now, apocalypse later'

Saint Laurent: Hedi Slimane likes a light show and this season's cube-shaped, concert-style light installation doubled as a fiery runway backdrop. Gleaming and flashing in alternate increments, the set illuminated the tiled, cubic catwalk within the Marais' Carreau du Temple

Fashion week, nowadays, is about much more than just the collections. Showmanship is the name of the game, and in the meticulously executed sartorial extravaganzas, the sound space is an element that no producer or designer can afford to overlook. Music royalty - past, present and future - is enlisted to ensure a full assault on the senses. Here, we bring you Milan Fashion Week's catwalk mega-mix from the S/S 2015 menswear collections.

SATURDAY 21/06

Ermenegildo Zegna
'The Creator Has a Master Plan' by Pharoah Sanders
Music production: James Murphy

Neil Barrett
'Bounce It' by Juicy J; 'Drunk In Love (a cappella)' by Beyoncé feat Jay Z; 'Trophies' by Drake; 'Sage the Gemini - Don't You (Joe Kay's Slowed Edit)' by Drake; 'Collard Greens' by Schoolboy Q; 'Blood On the Leaves' by Kanye West; 'Sanctified (Instrumental)' by Rick Ross; 'Bounce It French' by Juicy J; 'Pop That' by Montana feat Rick Ross, Drake and Lil Wayne

Brioni
'Your Love' by Frankie Knuckles; Instrumental by J.a.y.c.e.; 'Follow Me' by Aly-us; 'Can You Feel It' by Mr Fingers; 'Every Now and Then' by Ralph Falcon; 'Tears (Instrumental Mix) by Frankie Knuckles; 'Watcha Gonna Do with My Lovin' by Inner City

Versace
'Showroom Dummies' by Señor Coconut; 'Cumbia 8 (La La Macho)' by JD Twitch; 'The Robots' by Señor Coconut; 'Berimbau' by DJ Sandrinho; 'Source of Uncertainty' by Kink; 'Cumbia 8 + Jorge Ben - Taj Mahal' by JD Twitch
Music production: Simon Halsberghe

Philipp Plein
'Superpower' by Beyonce ft Frank Ocean; 'Tribe (Live)' by Theophilus London; 'Black Skinhead' by Kanye West; 'Hustlin' (Prince of Ballard remix)' by Rick Ross; 'Wut' by Leif

SUNDAY 22/06

Salvatore Ferragamo
'So Far So Real' by Gray; 'Aguirre (Fango remix)' by Batongo; 'Sombra da Lua' by Ninos du Brasil

Calvin Klein Collection
'Urania' by Pan Sonic; 'It's a Fire' by Portishead; 'The Box (Part One)' by Orbital;  'The Box (Part Two)' by Orbital; 'Music for Steamed Rocks' by Oneohtrix Point Never

Prada
'Trussed' by Psychic TV & PTV3; 'The Alien Brain' by Psychic TV & PTV3; 'Kiss Me (Maggot Brain) (Edit)' by Psychic TV & PTV3; 'Urgentissimo - Like Everything this Summer' by John Barry

Moncler Gamme Bleu
'Rocky Balboa Theme (Rico South vs Baltimore Bootleg)' by Bill Conti; 'Gonna Fly Now' by Ferrante & Teicher; HBO Boxing Theme; 'Going the Distance' by Bill Conti; 'Mama Said Knock You Out' by LL Cool J
Music production: Michel Gaubert

MONDAY 23/06

Emporio Armani
'Mopedbart' by Hubbabubbaklubb; 'Power' by Pompeya; 'Sentiment Acide (Jennifer Cardini Remix)' by David Shaw and the Beat; 'A Source of Light' by the Naked and Famous & Kids of 88; 'Clangour and Flutes' by Sin Fang Bous; 'Trust' by Sin Cos Tan

Ports 1961
'Chin Achin (Mononome remix)' by Cayetano; 'Red Alert' by Ben Klock

Gucci
'Sun Structure' by Temples; 'Feel' by TY Segall; 'Home' by Wooden Shjips; 'Colours To Life' by Temples
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Fendi
'Paid in Full (Seven Minutes of Madness the Coldcut Remix)' by Eric B and Rakim; 'Regiment' by Brian Eno and David Byrne; 'The Jezebel Spirit' by Brian Eno and David Byrne; 'Voices Inside My Head (a cappella)' by the Police; 'Voices Inside My Head (Roger S Classic Mix)' by the Police
Music production: Michel Gaubert

TUESDAY 24/06

Dsquared2
'A Walk on the Wild Side (Blutch remix)' by Lou Reed; 'Nowhere to Run (Bobby Cooper ReMedit)' by Martha Reeves and the Vandellas; 'Don't Bring Me Down (Nari e Milani Radio Cut)' by Electric Light Orchestra; 'Don't Bring Me Down' by Electric Light Orchestra; 'Don't Bring Me Down (Voices in Your Head edit)' Electric Light Orchestra; 'I'm Ready (short version)' by Kano; 'Native Love (Step by Step)' by Divine; 'Fame (Mojo Fitler Incognito Dub)' by David Bowie; 'Can You Feel It (Thomas Blaster remix 2014)' by the Jackson Five 

Giorgio Armani
'Late Night Session' by Ceccarini; 'Sold Out' by Just a Night; 'Feather on the Clyde (Stefan Biniak Private Edit)' by Passenger; 'I Can See Clearly Now' by Fennec & Wolf vs Johnny Nash; 'HereNow' by Phon.o; 'Let the Music Do the Talking' by Laid Back

Philipp Plein's fashion shows have become Milan's most hard-working exercises in excess. Before the clothes even hit the runway, guests had already been exposed to 10 synchronized swimmers flapping like dolphins in an Olympic-sized pool, four lifeguards posing on impossibly tall chairs, blasts of techno-music from behind shark billboards, and finally, cowboy-hat-wearing rapper Theophilus London mounted a wave runner and began singing live as he was dragged across the pool. When the clothes finally appeared, it was hard to even notice them, as all eyes were still locked on the water baby rapper. Plein's fashion tastes run as varied as his entertainment choices. There was a whole lot going on there, including military medallions scattered like broken mosaic patches over jeans, jackets, sweaters and even bathrobes, and studs covering almost every trim. If that weren't enough, Plein ended the proceedings with two tuxedo-clad acrobats, who literally flipped over their wave runners like a Las Vegas circus act.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans