Perfumer H and Studio Nicholson are two brands with a lot in common. Aesthetically, they share that blend of the refined and idiosyncratic that is so closely associated with British style; both are founded by women who are experts in their respective fields (Lyn Harris with perfume, Nick Wakeman with clothes); and both brands are built on an appreciation for craft and an exacting, meticulous attention to detail.

So it’s not surprising the two are now collaborating – if anything, it’s surprising it’s taken them this long to do it. ‘Lyn and I have known each other for years,’ Wakeman says on a call from her London office. ‘It’s just an unspoken commitment, I guess, that at some point we would do something together.’

That something is Soap, a perfume and incense that blends cardamom and white pepper with aldehydes, fresh orange flower and gentle white musks, which will now become the signature scent of Studio Nicholson, fragrancing and available to purchase from its shops. For Harris, bottling the essence of Studio Nicholson was a matter of evoking the feeling of soft fabric against skin, like slipping on a clean, well-worn shirt – fresh but still retaining the unique scent of its owner’s skin.

To create that sensation, she incorporated an intense level of aldehydes to create, in her words, a ‘transparent, clean and intently white note’. The addition of these clean notes was also inspired by Wakeman’s love of traditional barber shops. ‘My friends go to this particular gentleman's hairdresser in Mayfair and I always love smelling their hair when they come out, because they've got this kind of cologne in it,’ says Wakeman. ‘I love smells like that, anything medicinal, so there's an element of that in the fragrance. But the final thing doesn’t have that kind of fabricated smell – it's a very earthy, human-type smell, it's soft, and it sort of lingers. I've never smelled anything like it.’

Harris echoes the sentiment. ‘I think it’s a very seductive scent. The people I know who have worn it have people stopping them and asking what they’re wearing.’

The fragrance launches in conjunction with a capsule collection of clothing inspired by Harris’ personal uniform: a lightweight Italian cotton shirt, soft cotton twill pants and a blue Soap baseball cap, which will also be available in Studio Nicholson shops.

Soap will be at Perfumer H and Studio Nicholson stores as well as select retailers from 4 February 2026.

Refillable beauty has revolutionised the industry, with the aim of reducing surplus packaging waste; only about nine per cent of that packaging would have been recycled, according to the British Beauty Council.

Here, across make-up, skincare, fragrance and haircare, Wallpaper* edits a selection of the best refillable beauty packaging designs that you’ll want to keep in pride of place on your vanity table or bathroom shelf, from the likes of Dries van Noten, Hermès, Noble Panacea, Perfumer H, Davines and more.

The best of refillable beauty design, edited by Wallpaper*

Refillable make-up

Refillable skincare

Refillable fragrance

Refillable haircare

Few design studios are as adept as Studio Frith at turning a founder’s vision into a fully fledged, lived-in brand world. The London-based practice, led by Frith Kerr, has built its reputation not on a recognisable house style, but on a unique ability to create identities that feel deeply rooted in their subject – often growing them from nothing more than an idea, a set of values, or an instinct.

One of the studio’s most enduring collaborations has been with Perfumer H, the London-based fragrance brand founded by Lyn Harris, which turns ten this month. Studio Frith has been there since the very beginning, shaping everything around its visual language, from its packaging and website to campaigns, helping the brand expand from perfume into candles, pantry products, clothing and more.

Studio Frith and Perfumer H: a decade of collaboration

Raised in Yorkshire and Scotland, Lyn Harris, Kerr says, is a very rare combination of things: a female nose classically trained in the notoriously male-dominated Grasse, but with a modern approach to building scents. Kerr and Harris met when Harris was running her first perfume brand Miller Harris, which she founded in 2000 and sold in 2012. At the time, Perfumer H was just a seed of an idea, a vision for a brand, or a ‘world’, as Kerr calls it, that leans into detail; the craft, the alchemy, and story of natural perfume-making. Where individual ingredients are celebrated and savoured.

A period of dreaming and scheming ensued, with Kerr and her team imagining how this attitude of slowness and sensuality could become a visual identity that told the story of the brand. Perfumer H launched in 2015 with its first store opening on Marylebone’s Crawford Street. ‘I think what’s really particular about Lyn, is that she’s classic without being classical,’ says Kerr. ‘And that’s there in the monogram that we created for her with the hand drawn “H” and the “1992” referencing the year she formerly qualified as a perfumer. That becomes part of the craft and storytelling.’

Proving that good ideas have staying power, several of Frith’s early concepts for the brand still remain today. The soft, bundled grey felt carrier cases that Frith designed to hug the handblown glass bottles – made by south London glassblower Michael Ruh – offered a counterpoint to the run-of-the-mill crisp paper tote bags, and are still sold with every bottle ten years later. So too is the tactile box packaging – inspired by archival boxes with exposed staples – which has become a brand identifier. And the white wrapping paper, decorated with tree bark rubbings – originally made by hand using trees outside the Frith studio, and later by staff in the basement lab of Harris’ little Crawford Street store using tree trunks. Today, with now six stores across the globe, the paper is printed but the story remains. ‘It really pointed to this energy and direction of really caring about the detail and communicating that connection to the natural world and the senses.’

Each Perfumer H store is a physical manifestation of what Kerr refers to as Harris’ ‘world’. Darkly atmospheric, every element is considered and crafted. At Clifford Street, fragrances can be tested using suspended glass stoppers in hanging glass vials that are filled with a few droplets of perfume, while bottles are displayed in antique display cases like a bygone apothecary. There is a sense of discovery and intrigue at every turn.

A fundamental element of Frith’s work with Perfumer H is to make air visible - to communicate the idea of molecules floating in space. One particularly clever way of doing this has been Frith’s creation of ‘concrete poetry’ – also known as visual poetry where the visual arrangement of the words is just as important as the meaning of the words themselves. These visuals have adorned everything from windows to social media posts and merchandise. ‘Lyn is like a poet working with molecules, and there is a sort of simplicity about that,’ reflects Kerr. ‘We work really hard to develop that visual language that connects to how she thinks and how she makes perfume. And in a way, these words, this concrete poetry, work like sculptures.’

With stores now in London, Paris, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Taipei and Tokyo, Perfumer H has gone global. For many brands, international growth means compromising the very handmade or crafted elements that made them distinct. But under Frith’s watch, Perfumer H has maintained a consistently precise and poetic articulation. How?

‘We work with a lot of entrepreneurs developing brands from an idea,’ explains Kerr. ‘We work with them to gain a deep understanding of the truths their brand is rooted in. Sometimes people say to us, “I'd love something that's timeless” – but we don't know what that means. We don’t have a crystal ball. We don't know what “time” this is, but if we look for those truths, they will always be true. And so I think in the development and setup of brands, we actually work with truths.’

Inside Studio Frith's Shoreditch work space, there is a whole shelving system of Perfumer H prototypes and tests from over the years. Claire Koster – Studio Frith's design director, who has been instrumental in helping to shape Perfumer H's identity – tells us: ‘It's been incredible to see the brand develop over the last ten years and realise how much is still that original thinking and concept. I think we’ve gone back to ideas from eight or ten years ago, or revisited early concepts at a later point – because they might not have been right for that moment, but they still feel true.’

This instinctive way of working remains central to the collaboration. To celebrate the ten-year milestone, Studio Frith has worked with the brand to develop a series of anniversary products, including limited-edition handblown bottles with commemorative '10' monogram for the ‘Ink’ and ‘Rain Cloud’ scents, along with a small collection of branded collectibles – hats, T-shirts and totes – launching throughout July 2025. It’s a brand that hasn’t just endured, it’s evolved – with its founding principles still intact, and its visual and spatial world continuing to unfold with quiet confidence.

perfumerh.com
studiofrith.com

The notes of spring perfumes are markers of the season itself, with blossoming flowers, ripening fruit and green accords symbolic of new beginnings.

After the moodier, heavier scents of wintertime – rich gourmands, spicy ambers and woody ouds that linger in a colder atmosphere – spring fragrances are a welcome breath of fresh air, in keeping with the climbing temperatures and renewed sense of optimism buoyed by the sun’s rays.

Here, Wallpaper* presents our edit of the best spring perfumes of 2025, from the likes of Réservation, Perfumer H, Louis Vuitton and more.

The best spring perfumes of 2025

The best beauty products of the month, according to Wallpaper*, includes eight new launches by a roster of brands. Below, find Prada's latest mascara, used by lead make-up artist Lynsey Alexander in the runway look for the house’s A/W 2025 show on Wednesday this week (26 February 2025).

Plus, Westman Atelier’s bronzing drops, formulated by Gucci Westman. The American make-up artist has recently worked with Anthony Vaccarello and David Sims on Saint Laurent’s S/S 2025 campaign starring Michelle Pfeiffer, in addition to Nicole Kidman – who plays Romy in Halina Reijn’s Babygirl – on the actor’s red carpet appearances during this year’s awards season.

The best beauty products of the month, according to Wallpaper*

Beauty and fashion are close bedfellows. But in 2024, this relationship got even cosier, with a litany of turbocharged crossovers between the two disciplines.

The year began with Pat McGrath’s viral porcelain doll make-up for John Galliano’s tenure-defining Maison Margiela Artisanal S/S 2024 show. Later, during September’s S/S 2025 show season, Olivier Rousteing welcomed the much-anticipated Balmain Beauty. (As well as releasing a line of perfumes called ‘Les Éternels’, the Balmain runway collection included clothes and accessories directly referencing the fragrance bottles, alongside yet-to-be-released products such as lipsticks and eyeshadows).

In October, Celine debuted its first-ever beauty line, with a red lipstick called ‘Rouge Celine’, designed by Hedi Slimane. (Slimane announced his departure from the house soon after). During the same month, Matthieu Blazy unveiled a collection of Bottega Veneta fragrances in Murano glass bottles. Last week (12 December 2024) it was revealed that Blazy would be stepping down from Bottega Veneta and into the role of creative director at Chanel. The day before that, news broke that John Galliano would be exiting Maison Margiela.

If one is to believe fashion’s rumour mill, there are more major changes yet to come in the new year. But if the past 12 months have taught us anything, beauty is going to be a huge part of whatever these changes may be. Here, Wallpaper* takes a closer look at a selection of key fashion-meets-beauty moments, which set the tone for 2025 and beyond.

How 2024 brought beauty and fashion closer than ever before

Beauty on the runway, from Maison Margiela to Marc Jacobs

Even if you still haven’t seen the videos of Maison Margiela Artisanal S/S 2024, where John Galliano’s cast of models (including the likes of Gwendoline Christie) staggered beneath the arches of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, dressed as dolls plucked straight from Émile Zola’s demi-monde, you’ll have seen the make-up. Or, perhaps the endless reproductions of it across Instagram and TikTok at least. After all, almost immediately after the Pat McGrath-created look appeared on the runway, the internet was ablaze with beauty creators trying to decode the secret formula to the waxen, porcelain skin.

The hubbub around the look reached such a fever pitch that McGrath eventually weighed in herself, sharing the lengthy list of products – including a dizzy combination of peeling masques layered and dried directly on the skin with a hairdryer – that it took to achieve. (Ever the savvy entrepreneur, though, Dame Pat also revealed that her empire-scale beauty business, Pat McGrath Labs, is in the process of developing an all-in-one product for fans eager to get the look).

If there’s another fashion figure who won big in the beauty stakes this year, it would have to be Marc Jacobs, who collaborated with McGrath on a limited edition ‘MatteTrance’ lipstick to mark the 40th anniversary of the American design’s namesake brand.

On the runway, however, it was the S/S 2024 40th anniversary Marc Jacobs show, held in March, which saw the likes of Alex Consani and Kaia Gerber transformed into living dolls (a key theme this year, it would seem).

Strutting out from beneath large-scale Robert Therrien sculptures, their clumped eye make-up by Diane Kendal was offset with hectic 1960s-esque bouffants from Duffy. The label’s second show of the year for A/W 2024, which took place in July, pushed the all-pervasive doll theme yet further, with models sporting cartoonish overblown pastel eyelid covers, sewn from fabrics and trimmed with spidery faux lashes.

Beauty-inspired collections, from Balmain to Abra

But runway beauty went the extra mile in 2024, with collections even taking direct inspiration from beauty products themselves.

At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing used the house’s S/S 2025 show, staged in September, as an opportunity to toast a new line of perfumes called ‘Les Éternels’ and tease yet-to-be-released Balmain Beauty products. Flacon-shaped clutches, trompe l’oeil lipstick heels and eyeshadow palette pochettes figured alongside dresses embroidered with depictions of scarlet tinted lips and lacquered nails. (In 2022, Balmain partnered with Estée Lauder to bring Balmain Beauty to life. William P. Lauder, grandson of Estée and chairman of executive chairman of The Estée Lauder Companies, watched the collection unfold from the front row).

Elsewhere, independent label Abra leaned into beauty-inspired design for its A/W 2024 show, presented over Paris Fashion Week in February. The brand was founded in 2019 by Abraham Ortūno Perez, who has worked with Jonathan Anderson on footwear for both JW Anderson and Loewe. In particular, Perez is responsible for the former’s giant chain mules and the latter's surrealist sandals for S/S 2022, which included heels in hyper-realistic broken eggs, bars of soap and bottles of nail polish.

For the Abra collection in question, make-up brushes were transformed into necklaces, while lipsticks and mini eyeshadow palettes became earrings and brooches. There was also an oversized white T-shirt dress, which appeared as though the model had wiped her hands on it after applying foundation.

Beauty launches, from Celine to Bottega Veneta

2024 was as much about what landed on shop floors as what we saw on the runways, with the year bringing a glut of beauty launches from brands and houses.

One of the most memorable is Celine’s first-ever make-up product, ‘Le Rouge Celine’, a classic satin-finish scarlet hue that comes in an exquisite gold case, developed under the direction of Hedi Slimane. The entire cosmetics line, Celine Beauté, is set to continue under his successor Michael Rider, with more products such as eyeliner, eye pencils and more coming next year.

Elsewhere, Victoria Beckham’s booming beauty empire expanded further, with a collaboration with Augustinus Bader on a concealer pen, which contains the science-led skincare brand’s patented TFC8 technology. Augustinus Bader, which was founded by its namesake biomedical scientist and CEO Charles Rosier, is no stranger to fashion partnerships, having previously teamed up with the likes of Haider Ackermann. (On another note, Ackermann joined Tom Ford in September 2024, drumming up intrigue around the direction the French-Colombian designer will take its revered fragrance and beauty line, which recently put out a lipstick campaign starring Angelina Jolie).

Victoria Beckham Beauty debuted ‘21:50 Rêverie’ – a scent inspired by a twilight dinner she and her husband David once had in the Javan rainforest – by perfuming the designer’s S/S 2025 show space with it. (This wasn't the only time that scent was seen on the runway this year, with Burberry perfuming its A/W 2024 show space with ‘Ivy’ by Perfumer H).

Acolytes of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta were blessed with scented candles in volcano-glazed pots and five perfumes including ‘Come With Me’ and ‘Acqua Sale’, all inspired by Venice, the ultra-luxe label’s home city. Each was housed in glass bottles that echoed the texture of handblown Murano and perched on a miniature Verde Saint Denis marble plinth.

Beauty and fashion in 2025, from Dries Van Noten to Miu Miu

Keeping track of the developing relationship between the worlds of fashion and beauty in 2024 was truly a head-spinning task. This year also saw Dries van Noten take a final bow as creative director of his brand, after almost a decade at its helm. (On 9 December, it was revealed that Julian Klausner would succeed him).

However, Van Noten will continue to work on its beauty and fragrance division, stoking excitement around how its offering could develop. As the designer told Wallpaper* in the December 2024 issue: ‘My life changed quite a lot this year,’ he says. ‘It’s an exciting time. We had some storms, with big trees falling over, so there is more work to do in the garden and some thinking to be done.’

Perhaps the launch to look out for next year, though, is the arrival of Miu Miu beauty. Launching by way of a licencing agreement with L’Oréal, the new line expands the Prada Group’s beauty foothold, which was first established in 2023 with Prada Beauty, under the creative direction of Lyndsey Alexander.

It is also worth keeping an eye on Chanel. Although beauty and fragrance will not be under new creative director Matthieu Blazy’s direct purview, it will nonetheless be interesting to see how his creative vision informs and interacts with this vital and storied branch of the French house.

Glassblowing and perfumery might, at first glance, seem like two art forms with very little in common. But for perfumer Lyn Harris and glassblower Michael Ruh, their creative practices could not be more aligned.

Harris first approached Ruh when she was in the development process for Perfumer H, the niche fragrance house she created after the great success – and eventually, sale – of her previous brand, Miller Harris. From the outset, Harris knew that her newest venture would be dedicated to a singular principle – to create products with an uncompromising and sustainable dedication craft (a vision very much in evidence in the recently opened Perfumer H store in London’s Mayfair).

Inside the process of creating a Perfumer H bottle with Michael Ruh

It was a given Harris would realise that vision through perfumery; after all, she is one of the first female master noses, and is widely recognised as one of the most innovative forces within the craft. But for every other aspect of the brand – from the furniture in the stores to the shopping bags – Harris had to find collaborators who were as skilled and exacting in their practices as she was in hers.

When Harris discovered a glass bottle by Michel Ruh in her house, she knew she knew he would make a perfect collaborator for the product packaging, and Ruh returned the sentiment. ‘When we met Lyn, we realised we share an aligned visual language, and our connection was clear,’ Ruh writes over email. ‘Our first encounter did not focus only on tangible objects, rather there was much about Lyn’s journey of becoming a nose, the structure of perfume and the process of making perfume. We understood that there are numerous shared elements within our individual disciplines, for example, the meticulous attention to detail and acknowledging the importance of letting time pass; not rushing things in order for the objects we each make to be completed.’

Thus began the year-and-a-half process of making bottle samples and searching for a colour palette. ‘The shape of the bottle was defined by Lyn’s language from our conversations,’ says Ruh about the early days of the development process. ‘We wanted to represent a sense of something contemporary but not trendy, something well-chosen and intentional, and something that reflected the history and time involved in creating a perfume. Words such as “apothecary”, “contemporary” “historical” and “scent lab” were some of the creative drivers for developing the bottle.’

After creating a few ‘sketch’ bottles, Ruh and his team were able to hit on a design that felt ‘humane; relatable and reflected the directness of Lyn’s aesthetic and our conversations’ but still had a strong enough presence to stand out in a retail environment. Next, the team worked to find the right colours for each of Perfumer H’s five base scent categories (Amber, Citrus, Fern, Floral, Wood); sniffing samples of the base scents from Harris’ workshop and then selecting scents that reflected the aura of each. Finally, a beautiful ground glass stopper was created for the closure.

The final product remains the signature bottle of the brand. ‘After ten years working together, I feel a beautiful wisdom and confidence in how Michael translates my ideas,’ says Harris. ‘Every piece gives so much pleasure which in turn is like perfume. We both give small tokens of pleasure to our clients which rewards us both so much.’

Ruh echos the sentiment. ‘We are driven by a simple, uncomplicated and straightforward acknowledgement of the material of glass,’ he says. ‘We are impassioned by the mesmerising qualities of molten glass, and the sense of tradition whilst making, and we are captivated by the material as a carrier of light and colour. Glassmaking is a visceral undertaking for us and it seems perfect for us to create vessels for Perfumer H.’

To see the craftsmanship that goes into every one of Ruh’s bottles for Perfumer H watch this exclusive video of Ruh at work in his studio in south London, below.

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Perfumer H’s new spring scent, Dandelion, has arrived today (18 April 2024). A real labour of love, it was three years in the making. And for Lyn Harris, the brand founder and nose behind its olfactory creations, the length of time it took was intentional. Within its notes, Harris was keen to capture the optimism of her childhood memories; of spending spring afternoons outdoors, idly blowing dandelion seeds into the breeze. So didn’t want to hurry such a personal project.

‘It’s about being a teenager in the cricket fields near my home, lying with my friends in the grass and inhaling the scent of these leggy, sappy green and yellow weeds dancing all around my nose,’ she says. ‘It’s the feeling of freedom, innocence; the beginning of summer, and embracing life and all that awaits. This feeling brought so much happiness, and the Dandelion flower symbolises this.’

Perfumer H bottles the optimistic feeling of spring

‘I did several trials to capture how I envisioned this flower on the skin,’ Harris continues. ‘I found myself veering towards either too green or too floral, which wasn’t my intended direction. So, I’d set it aside and work on my other projects, as I typically have several in progress. Finding a creative balance with one fragrance often leads to a flow of creativity into another, creating a positive thread of magic in my work. The selection process took time to ensure the right elements were in place.’

In the case of Dandelion, the magic comes to fruition in the composition of sweet Sicilian lemon, Tunisian orange flower, and Italian mandarin. Harris then balanced these notes with the freshness of green leaf. ‘For this fragrance, it involved a careful balance of basil with green sap heightened by a bitter orange note and warmed with cardamom to evoke the heat of the sun,’ she says. ‘Then, I created tension with a sweet plum note for the bitter orange, and a hint of French mint for the cardamom, bringing balance to the top and heart notes. For the final touch, I crafted a white musk base enhanced with sandalwood nuances, adding a magical, skin-like allure that makes it irresistibly appealing.’

For Perfumer H, scent and taste are inextricably linked, and it produces a corresponding herbal tea for each scent profile. ‘My grandmother made tisanes from the fruits of her garden, igniting my obsession with tea,’ says Harris. ‘I’ve worked with Tim D'Offay from Postcard Teas on multiple projects, and he has helped me indulge in this habit for 20 years.’

In the case of Dandelion, D’Offay assisted Harris in creating a blend that reflected her ‘obsession’ with matcha, but also softened its signature bitterness to make the tea smoother on the palate. ‘[To do this] we used the purest matcha from Japan fused with foraged vanilla from Bali, a touch of jasmine, and dandelion leaves and stems foraged from England,’ Harris adds.

Alongside this, Dandelion also comes in the form of a candle, in handblown green glass. (The perfume bottle is also hand-blown, in keeping with the apothecary-esque aesthetic, rooted in craft, that Perfumer H is known for).

‘Dandelion transports you to a place that is joyful and free,’ notes Harris, which feels like the perfect sentiment for entering the escapist seasons of Spring and Summer.

The Dandelion Collection by Perfumer H is available now.

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Investing in a selection of new home fragrances is a surefire way to reset your living space for the year ahead, and help stave off the January blues in the process. Scents are a trigger for memories and emotions. So, bringing a whole new olfactory experience to the home can help with the formation of new memories as the calendar months go on. Wallpaper* has selected some of the best home fragrances to help you along the way. From the freshness of Loewe’s Cucumber candle, to Celine’s indulgently scented paper, and Frédéric Malle’s dreamy linen spray, we hope you’ll discover something you love.

Home fragrances to reset your living space

1. Loewe Cucumber scented candle

What could be more cleansing and refreshing than the scent of cucumber? This luxury candle by Loewe (created in collaboration with Chinese actor Leo Wu, one of the brand’s ambassadors) packs an intense verdant fragrance, which also reveals notes of mint when lit. As with most candles from the fashion house, creative directed by Jonathan Anderson since 2013, the natural wax is contained in a glazed terracotta pot, which can be reused. Combine it with a Tomato Leaves candle, also by Loewe, for a delicious olfactory salad.

Loewe Home Scents Cucumber large candle, £345, available at mytheresa.com

2.  Officine Générale Smoky Olive room spray

French fashion label Officine Générale launched its first range of home fragrances at the end of last year (December 2023). For the brand’s founder Pierre Maheo and its image director Nina Maheo, ‘scent is ever-present... connecting back to childhood; bringing comfort or familiarity; providing a simple, everyday pleasure’. The scent that has been created for this new product offering is called Smoky Olive, and is infused into a candle, hand wash and room spray, each with top notes of bergamot and ginger, heart notes of iris, patchouli and vetiver, and base notes of tobacco, cedar, incense and leather.

Officine Générale Smoky Olive home spray, £55, available at officinegenerale.com.

3. Diptyque Baies scented oval

Designed in a white porcelain holder by Jean-Marc Gady studio, and containing a wax perfume diffuser, this Diptyque scented oval provides a sculptural take on the brand’s iconic candle (the latter now also available in a refillable version). Crafted with a black cotton rope, allowing the object to be placed at various locations throughout the home, the fragrance will last a minimum of three months (so will take you seamlessly from winter into spring). Diptyque’s Baies scent evokes ‘the tangy coolness of blackcurrant berries and lively, flowery rose accents’, diffusing an energising aroma into any space. (A new launch from the brand for 2024 includes the La Drogurie odour-removing room spray with basil, as part of its home cleaning collection, if you’re in the market for something a little more practical).
Diptyque Baies scented oval, £53, available at harrods.com; La Droguerie Basil odour-removing interior scent spray, £56, available at selfridges.com.

4. Trudon Cyrnos reed diffuser

Trudon has been producing candles since 1643 and was the official provider of the royal court of Louis XIV at the Palace of Versailles. The scent of this reed diffuser, however, is inspired by the citrus gardens of the Belle Époque-style Villa Cyrnos on the Côte d’Azur, designed by Hans-Georg Tersling. Your home may not be quite as lavish as either of these buildings, but it deserves an equally flamboyant fragrance nonetheless. With notes of lavender, pine, cedarwood and fig, this scent will last for around four months, with the diffuser itself made in Trudon-green glass.

Trudon Cyrnos reed diffuser, £178, available at selfridges.com.

5. Gabar 01 Float scented candle

Fragrance and personal care brand Gabar is based in London, but rooted in the culture and heritage of Myanmar, and has newly released its home fragrance line this month (January 2024). The 01 Float scented candle draws inspiration from the Inle Lake in Myanmar’s Shan Hills, with notes of jasmine and violet leaf combining with amber and white musk, to welcome a much-needed sense of calm into the new year and beyond. (It also makes for a perfect bathtime companion.)

Gabar 01 float scented candle, £48, available at gabarmyanmar.com

6. Celine Parade scented paper

Celine scented papers are designed to be placed into a drawer to fragrance clothes and linens, with Parade, the Parisian label’s best-selling perfume, dreamt up by Hedi Slimane. Embossed with the house‘s Triomphe logo, the papers are a decadent way to enliven your wardrobe after a January cull. Although, as Wallpaper* contributing editor Mary Cleary pointed out upon the product’s launch in 2022: ‘...there is plenty of room to get creative with how you use them – perhaps as a perfumed card slipped into a gift, an elegant bookmark, or a clever addition to your suitcase, for example’. Indeed, the possibilities over the year ahead are almost endless.

Celine parade scented paper, £65, available at celine.com.

7. Santa Maria Novella scented terracotta

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is the ‘world’s oldest beauty brand’, founded in 1221 by Dominican friars in Florence. This scented terracotta pomegranate can double up as an incredibly fragrant paperweight (or simply a pleasing handcrafted object to rest on any surface in the home). It is imbued with Santa Maria Novella’s Melograno perfume, which is said to be ‘emblematic of fertility and abundance’, led by top notes of bergamot, bitter orange and fresh spices, followed by pomegranate accord, rose, ylang-ylang, labdanum, musk, oakmoss and patchouli.

Santa Maria Novella, Melograno scented terracotta, £60, available at libertylondon.com.

8. Byredo Rose hand wash

It’s time to ditch the Dettol and rid the edges of your sink from Radox. Containing pink pepper, patchouli, white musk (and what Byredo describes as a ‘radiant chord of raspberry’) this rose-scented hand wash is your new bathroom or kitchen staple, a gentle, vegan formulation that cleanses hands whilst leaving them delicately perfumed. The complementary lotion – which is rich in shea butter – also helps aid in soothing and softening dry winter skin.

Byredo Rose hand wash, £44, available at spacenk.com.

9. Mad Et Len x Lemaire Bois d’Orange scented candle

Artisanal French brand Mad Et Len emphasises the evocative power of scent. (In fact, it takes its name from Marcel Proust’s ‘Episode of the Madeleine’, from In Search of Lost Time). All of its fragrances are made in Grasse, with containers crafted from rolled metal. Mad Et Len has recently collaborated with Lemaire, to produce a range of fragrances for the home. The Bois d’Orange candle releases notes of Japanese cypress and Haitian vetiver, and is described as an ‘enveloping perfume that delicately slips into the atmosphere like a thin thread of material or a light fabric’.

Mad Et Len x Lemaire Bois d’Orange scented candle, £90, available at matchesfashion.com

10. Frédéric Malle Dans Ton Lit linen spray

Frédéric Malle says that this fragrance can recreate the effect of ‘sleeping on a bed of roses’ or ‘dreaming on a perfumed cloud’. So if your New Year resolution is to make rest a priority, then investing in a bottle of Dans Ton Lit linen spray is a good way to help you keep it. Containing half Turkish rose essence, and half Rose Water Essential (an ingredient that has been developed as an exact rendition of rose water’s natural scent), simply spritz on your pillow, close your eyes, and drift into redolent slumber.

Frédéric Malle Dans Ton Lit linen spray, £85, available at selfridges.com.

11. Maison Francis Kurkdijan linen care set

In a new release from Maison Francis Kurkdjian for 2024, this scented laundry soap set is ‘the ultimate in refinement’, says the perfumer. (We would be inclined to agree – we’ll be adding it to our clothes care routine.) Infusing garments with the notes of Aqua Universalis, a fresh citrussy scent containing bergamot from Calabria, citron from Sicily, white flowers and the subtle scent of light and musky wood, the set is available for both light and dark colours, and contains a laundry detergent and fabric softener.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Linen Care Set, £95, available at harrods.com

12. Perfumer H Ink incense

Perfumer H, founded by British nose Lyn Harris, is known for its unconventional fragrances. This extends to its offering for the home, including this incense, which has been made by one of the few traditional incense makers in Kyoto, Japan (who also provide incense for the local Buddhist temples and monasteries). Notes include elemi, juniper wood, cedar wood, papyrus, vetiver and frankincense, to evoke the illusion of blue ink.

Perfumer H, Ink incense, £30, perfumerh.com.

13. Discothèque milk candle

Discothèque candles are created to evoke the memories of hedonistic nights out and are made using fully traceable, sustainable, high-grade vegan wax in the United Kingdom. This particular candle is named after the Milk! night club that was up and running in Mannheim, Germany, between 1990 - 1993. With top notes of weeping juniper, citrus limon, bergamot, and black pepper (and with a sandalwood, vanilla bean, leather and balsamic base), lighting it will bring a slice of nightlife into your home, setting the tone for many dinner parties to come.

Discothèque Milk! candle, £54, available at harveynichols.com.

In the corner of Perfumer H’s new Mayfair, London flagship there is a roomy, welcoming antique chair next to a small, austere black stool. The chair is from the Georgian era and the stool was recently made by designer Bobby Mills. But, despite their distance in time and aesthetic, the pieces somehow complement each other perfectly. In this way, they are emblematic of the ethos behind the Perfumer H store, and Perfumer H itself, which marries an old-world approach to handicraft (objects that are painstakingly and patiently executed because they are going to be treasured for generations) with a modern aesthetic sensibility (pared back, photographable, chic).

Lyn Harris on the new Perfumer H Mayfair store

Lyn Harris, the Perfumer H founder, launched the brand in 2015. It coincided with a time when people were beginning to look for slow and considered alternatives to commercial perfumery. As she tells me from inside the Clifford Street store, a few days before it officially opens: ‘I think people really appreciate having this level of craft and detail in a commercial brand, because I think brands so easily lose that. This is an era when people are much more patient and much more willing to seek out the less obvious options, because they want something special.’

Creating ‘something special’ has always been at the heart of Harris’ craft. One of the most respected noses working today, she classically trained in Grasse but grew up in Yorkshire and Scotland. With Perfumer H, she combines the expertise of her education with a touch of British eccentricity to create exceptional and peculiar fragrances. Take ‘Ink,’ an iconic Perfumer H fragrance that recreates the smell of ink on parchment paper by blending the dry, woody notes of Haitian vetiver and cedarwood with the watery, slightly metallic notes of ambroxan and isobutyl quinoline. Or ‘Smoke’, which blends Russian coriander seed with Moroccan cedar wood and birch tar to conjure the smell of charred wood, cool air and damp earth.

At Perfumer H stores, those scents and others can be purchased in handblown glass bottles and candle holders by south London glassblower Michael Ruh, and come bundled in grey felt carrier cases that you’ll want to keep forever too. The same meticulousness is applied to Perfumer H’s pantry products, which range from salt that blends Provençal wild herbs, flowers and spices with delicate Fleur de Sel; to Welsh raspberry jam made with rose water and geranium leaf; and pickled cucumber flavoured with lemon and juniper.

At the Clifford Street store, which opened today (29 November 2023), fragrances can be tested using an ingenious system Harris developed of suspending glass stoppers, also made by Ruh, in hanging glass vials that are filled with a few droplets of perfume. The scent clings to the glass and gives customers a strong and accurate preview of the fragrance. Lined up alongside each other, the glass vials could be something from a bygone apothecary but the sleek grey shelves they’re suspended from ground them in the present. 

That blending of past and present runs throughout the Clifford Street store. People can look into the shop through large, rounded windows that date from the Georgian era. Inside they see an antique display case next to a custom-built contemporary one. There is a long wooden table in the entranceway where customers can pay for items using a card machine that rests on a wooden base once used to display an antique clock.

The back area of the store is painted in a deep charcoal grey with an arresting oil painting of an orange (a common feature of Perfumer H fragrances) by the Kent-based artist Will Calver above the fireplace. When I visit Clifford Street on an overcast London afternoon, there is a Perfumer H candle burning on the fireplace sill, and the dark walls, antique furniture and rows of candles combine to create a romantic and solemn mise en scène that could be either a Dickens set or a cosy, modern apartment.

Downstairs, there is an exhibition space that will play host to a rotating roster of artists, including, for the opening, work by Michael Ruh and ceramicist Ed Hill. There is also an in-store refilling station where customers can bring their candles to get topped up (a staggering 80 per cent of customers do so) or take part in one of many in-store workshops on candle making, tea, the art of perfumery and more. 

The Clifford Street store marks the seventh Perfumer H retail space, with a new Taipei shop set to open next week. For Harris, retail is an important aspect of the Perfumer H project and one she will continue to develop because ‘it just works well. People want to come and they want to have an experience. And I just love getting those details in.’

The Perfumer H flagship is located at 15A Clifford Street, London, W1S 4JZ.

perfumerh.com

Luxury scented candles can transform the ambience of a space with one strike of a match. The Wallpaper* edit takes into consideration both intriguing scent profiles and designs, spanning from sleek sophisticates to colourful creatives, and everything in between.

For the former, think Celine’s collection of candles crafted by the house from faceted black glass and black wax. For the latter, Bottega Veneta’s recently launched range has one-of-a-kind volcano-glazed pots that can be kept and re-used once the contents have burned down. No matter which from our ongoing list is your preference, this advice remains universal: do not forget to trim the wick.

Luxury scented candles to intrigue the senses, as selected by Wallpaper*

Celine

Celine’s candles are undeniably chic, with their faceted black containers and candle wax, which is created in-house by the Maison’s own wax maker. His dual training in perfumery (something of an anomaly in the trade) provides a unique understanding of how fragrance and wax work together to saturate a room. Like the brand’s perfumes, all of the candle’s scents are designed by creative director Hedi Slimane. Each one is a crowd-pleaser but we have a soft spot for ‘Illuminations’ (a blend of incense and resinous rockrose that is inspired by Rimbaud’s poetry) and ‘Nightclubbing’, based on Slimane’s memories of Paris after dark, with white orris butter, patchouli, tree moss, vanilla and musk.

celine.com

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta candles come in a one-of-a-kind volcano-glazed clay pots, that are designed to be reused around the home when the wax has burned down. For a gentle scent, try ‘Raintree’, which is inspired by a hot Italian sun warming fresh fig leaves. There’s also ‘Redstone’, a richer scent with notes of plum nectar and woody tobacco leaves. While ‘Lantern’ makes for a slightly more subtle option with notes of suede rose and woody vetiver roots.

bottegaveneta.com

Tom Ford

Tom Ford perfumes have gained a cult following thanks to their opulent, distinctive and overtly sexy scents. His candles are no different. And, although they come in relatively streamlined packaging, their scents pack a punch. If you’re having trouble deciding which one to get, we recommend trying ‘Fucking Fabulous’ which lives up to its name with a heady blend of leather and amber-hued tonka bean.

tomford.com

Diptyque

Part of the Dipgtyque’s summer fragrance collection, the ‘Citronelle’ candle is full of zest, with lemongrass, verbena, neroli and orange blossom. It’s currently available in a limited edition design, featuring playful illustrations by artist Alexandre Benjamin Navet. The candle is ‘an instant reminder of balmy summer nights’, and has the added benefit of warding off any bugs and insects that might interfere with the mood.

diptyque.com

Trudon

In a list of luxury scented candles, it would be remiss to exclude Trudon, a storied fragrance house that once made candles for Marie Antoinette. (A recent collection even paid olfactory tribute to Versailles). The brand’s ‘Ernesto’ candle – a blend of tobacco and leather – is the most classic choice. If you prefer a slightly less heady fragrance, however, then ‘Abd El Kader’ is decidedly refreshing, containing slightly spicy notes of Moroccan mint tea, tobacco and ginger. Or, there’s ‘Carmelite’, a woody incense-tinged scent inspired by the mossy stone walls and silent chapels of medieval convents.

trudon.co.uk

Harriet Allure

Harriet Allure is a niche Stockholm-based candle brand created by childhood friends, Freddy Mackensy and Alex Adu. Each of the brand’s four candles is inspired by the founder’s friends and family and is intended to conjure up the feeling of ‘home’ from anywhere one might be in the world. The most impressive scent in the collection is perhaps ‘Faiyaz’ which blends tobacco with violet, saffron and pine cedar. But ‘Amu’ is the perfect option for those who prefer the slightly sweeter fragrance of apple and cardamon.

harrietallure.com

Loewe

Loewe’s plant and vegetable-inspired scented candles have become icons of the genre, inspired by Creative Director Jonathan Anderson’s own garden. There’s ‘Mushroom’, ‘Luscious Pea’, ‘Beetroot’, and the now quintessentially verdant ‘Tomato Leaf’, to name but a few, each housed in colourful terracotta pots based on the design of a 5th-century BC Greek mug.

perfumesloewe.com

Acqua di Parma

The Acqua di Parma ‘Chapeau!’ candle is a brand collaboration with designer Dorothée Meilichzon. Infused with the notes of Luce di Colonia: orange, lemon, petitgrain, neroli, patchouli and vetiver. Crafted from ceramic, the candle weighs a total of almost 2,000g, with a two-in-one design inspired by the Art Deco forms of Acqua di Parma fragrance bottles. The glazed top (in the signature house colours of either yellow or blue) slots onto a matte white base, revealing itself as a small candle in itself once removed.

acquadiparma.com

Cloon Keen

Cloon Keen is an Irish fragrance brand that has garnered a devotional following among those in the know. Brand founders, Margaret Mangan and Julian Checkley have curated a range of phenomenal scents inspired by their home country. ‘Aesthetic Lily’ pays homage to Oscar Wilde, blending the delicate freshness of lily with spicy ginger and Egyptian jasmine on fine, carved mahogany.

cloonkeen.com

Le Labo

A candle from cult fragrance brand Le Labo is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Its three-pack discovery set is a great way to find out which is your favourite. But fortune favoures the bold. So don’t hesitate in taking the plunge with ‘Ambroxyde 17’, a candle infused with synthetic molecule Ambroxyde, which produce the scent of ambergris or ‘floating gold’. This alluring ‘can’t quite place it’ note is paired with musks, woods, and jasmine for a heady, distinctive scent.

lelabofragrances.com

Maison D’Orsay

Maison D’Orsay was founded 200 years ago by French aristocrat (and inspiration for The New Yorker’s top-hatted mascot) Alfred d’Orsay. The brand’s range of candles are inspired by romantic meetings, with names corresponding to the time and place for each. ‘02:45 Enfin Seuls’ is a blend of incense, burned birchwood and rose inspired by a fireside conversation that goes on until the early hours; ‘23:15 À l’abri des regards’ is a heliotrope and lavender fragrance that pays homage to incognito rendezvous late at night; ‘21:30 Sous les draps’ is a spicy, floral blend of cumin, rose, patchouli and moss; and ‘06:20 Où tu sais’ combines linden flower, acacia wood, and hay, designed by celebrated perfumer Olivia Giacobetti.

dorsay.com

Haeckels

Fans of Haeckles natural skincare will want to extend the love to the Margate-based brand’s candles, too. The collection sees its cult perfumes become home fragrances in the likes of ‘Dreamland’ (a singular mix of rose and charred wood inspired by the 19th-century amusement park) or the ever-popular ‘Pluviophile’, which evokes the smell of rain hitting coastal pebbles. Repackaged in recycled sandblasted containers made by UK glass manufacturers, the containers are also emblazoned with coordinates from the Kentish coastline.

haeckels.com

Ormaie

Haute parfumerie Ormaie has made a name for itself with some of the most beautiful, modernist-inspired perfume bottles (and perfumes) around. It’s no surprise, then, that their candles are equally as elegant. Five of the brand’s scents can be purchased in gold-toned refill containers, held in a white porcelain vessel. When it comes to choosing between them, we have a soft spot for ‘Pain Perdu’, a blend of bran, cedar, and tonka beans meant to evoke the smell of an after-school snack in a French kitchen.

ormaie.paris.com

Perfumer H

Perfumer H’s candles come in elegant hand-blown glass containers that can be endlessly refilled in-store after purchase. Scents conceived by brand founder and Grasse-trained nose Lynn Harris include ‘Smoke’, a deeply intense blend of burnt cade, smoking birch tar and frankincense that smells like scorched wood in a dense forest. Or, there’s the the gentler ‘Dandelion’, created to evoke the first waves of a childhood spring, with green leaf, basil, honeysuckle, tagete, neroli, oak moss and vetiver.

perfumerh.com

For over 20 years, the destination fashion boutique Capitol has been leading the sartorial charge in its hometown of Charlotte, North Carolina. Housed in a 6,000 sq ft space, the freestanding boutique is as well known for its elegant, residence-style interiors designed by architect Perry Poole, as it is for its spacious courtyard and green wall created by the French botanist Patrick Blanc.

This month, Capitol’s founder Laura Vinroot Poole unveils the store’s first fragrance – the enigmatically named A Flower, created in collaboration with the London-based olfactory label, Perfumer H. Made from summery notes that range from citrus and berries, to herbs, spices and flowers, the effervescent fragrance encapsulates a love of the outdoors while making a nod to the American South.

‘A Flower is an olfactory take on summers in the South,’ says perfumer Lyn Harris, who first met Poole when she wanted to create her own bespoke fragrance. ‘I fell in love with her free spirit and style. Her passion for the south and where she is from deeply inspired everything you smell in this creation. Vanilla bourbon, ylang-ylang, white musk and citrus notes conjure a sophisticated scent, designed to appeal to Capitol’s discerning clientele.’

The creative process began with Poole sending Harris photographs that were important to her. ‘I explained to Lyn what it's like to live here; what it smells like [and] what it feels like. I described the smells of wisteria and tobacco, and the humidity,’ she recalls. ‘We spent time together and tested different formulas. It was such an interesting process to create a fragrance because I'm so used to editing with my eyes and my hands. Tuning my olfactory sense was challenging at first, but ultimately very liberating.’

The limited edition fragrance is presented in sapphire blue, glass bottles, each blown by hand. With only 40 produced, each accompanied by a travel size factory bottle, two atomisers in a wool case, and a miniature funnel and pipette dropper for decanting, this is a true collector’s item.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Perfumer H website, and the Capitol website

Opening in the East Wing Galleries of Somerset House is an exhibition that explores the changing profile and role of scent in the 21st century.

Perfume never makes for an easy subject to show in a white-washed exhibition space. But Somerset House senior curator Claire Catterall and scent writer Lizzie Ostrom have freshened up the approach to exhibiting fragrance, putting the spotlight on ten contemporary smells that tell the story of how scent has evolved over the past two decades, while showcasing them in arresting ways.

Removing bottles and packaging from the equation and using visual, auditory and tactile prompts alongside the scent itself, each of the exemplary perfumes inhabits a set designed by Muf Architecture/Art. The visitor is invited to pick up a pad and paper and take the journey through the ten spaces, making their own notes on what they experience. There is a break after five, to catch up with which scents have been experienced, who the nose for each is, what the ingredients are, and again for the next five at the end. The staging is unique for each – one evokes white sheets drying on a line, one a catholic confessional, one a crumpled bed.

‘Perfume isn’t just about being sexy and alluring anymore – now we not only want to smell different to everyone else but different to before,’ says Catterall summing up the drive behind her curation. ‘Perfume isn’t about fashion any more, it’s not worn as an accessory. It’s experienced more like a book, to make you cry or laugh, to transport you somewhere else.’

The perfumes on show are the work of both classically-trained and the ever-growing category of self-taught perfumers, equal credence being given to both. ‘Perfumers are not talking to us through the filter of a company,’ says Ostrom. ‘It’s not just about big billboard and TV Ad campaigns, stories are told through text and film.’

Constructed from natural materials and synthetics, they are a mixture of the experimental, the challenging, the poetic and the prosaic, but all are ruthlessly modern, and pushing away from classical perfumery. The noses whose works are featured include Lyn Harris of Perfumer H, Antoine Lie, Mark Buxton, Bertrand Dushaufour, Oliveia Giacobetti, Geza Schoen, Andy Tauer, Killian Wells, and David Seth Moltz.

The last space is occupied by a perfume laboratory run by co-sponsors Givaudan (other sponsors are Coty, Peroni Ambra and Liberty London). Each Thursday to Saturday, it will host residencies. New scents will be created from scratch, under the noses of visitors. On the 25 July and 29 August, workshops will be hosted here in collaboration with the Experimental Perfume club, during which partakers can create – and name – their own signature scent.

INFORMATION

‘Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent’ is on view until 17 September. For more information visit the Somerset House website

ADDRESS

Somerset House
Strand
London WC2R 1LA

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Few perfume stores are as individual or as personal as Perfumer H on Crawford Street in Marylebone, where you’ll often find perfumer Lyn Harris or her assistant Caroline working away in the little fragrance laboratory at the back of the shop. Harris is one of the leading lights of British perfumery, having founded Miller Harris back in 2000, starting with a basement in Primrose Hill and building it into an international brand with partner Christophe Michel.

Harris launched Perfumer H in 2015 after stepping back from Miller Harris, though she still consults for her original brand. After more than a decade expanding the business, going back to basics and starting again has, she says, been a liberating experience. Perfumer H certainly feels like a very personal project, in which every detail has been carefully considered, from the mid-century modern interiors by Retrouvius to the beautiful hand-blown glass perfume bottles by south London glassblower Michael Ruh. Even the grey felt carrier bags are exquisitely designed.

Customers can choose from an evolving range of Laboratory Editions in plain brown medicinal-glass bottles, or from a smaller range of Seasonal Editions, which change twice each year. For summer 2016 she’s created three new perfumes, each in a different perfume family: the floral 'Rain Cloud'; the oriental 'Musk'; and the woody 'Atlas'.

'Rain Cloud' takes its cue from exotic ylang ylang, with jasmine, iris root and orange flower, but it’s saved from being the usual ‘white floral’ by the addition of angelica seed and vetiver, which give it a fresh, intriguing after-a-shower character. 'Musk' is soft but spicy, with orange and mandarin layered over iris, heliotrope, cedarwood, vanilla and long-lasting synthetic white musk. 'Atlas' has cedarwood as well, but here it’s the main event, emphasised by the deliciously resinous smell of cypress needles, elemi and frankincense. It’s a confident, bracing scent, and one we can imagine wanting to wear every day.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit Perfumer H's website

Photography courtesy Perfumer H

Surrounded by endless teak, polished brass and smoked glass, after a two-year creative journey Lyn Harris has finally opened the doors of her new project: Perfumer H.

On the corner of Crawford Street in Marylebone, Harris’ new laboratory and store has been designed by architectural designers and salvagers Retrouvius. It’s here that customers will be able to exclusively experience, create and ultimately walk away with Harris’s deliciously British new scents.

While perfumery has for too long been associated with Paris and the French fragrance houses, Harris felt it was time to create something more homegrown.

The Seasonal Editions range begins by covering the five essential fragrance families (citrus, floral, wood, fern and oriental). These represent Harris’s predictions for the coming season and beautifully evoke such classically British scents as leather, heliotrope, rose and velvet. The Seasonal Editions will be complimented with a portfolio of Laboratory Editions, which customers can buy – even purchasing the formula, should they really fall in love with it. There are also five home fragrance candles in 'Marmalade', 'Smoke', 'Dandelion', 'Ivy' and 'Fern'. As ever, Harris will also be working with customers to create their own bespoke fragrances (priced from £15,000).

Early on in Perfumer H’s development it was the bottles that provided the starting point for much of the look and feel of Harris’s new venture, her first major project since moving on from the phenomenally successful Miller Harris. Created with Michael Ruh Studio, each hand-blown coloured glass vessel is topped with a clear glass stopper and is engraved in gold with the Perfumer H monogram (customers can also have their own bottles personalised with their initials).

INFORMATION

Visit Perfumer H online

ADDRESS

Perfumer H
106a Crawford Street
London, W1H 2HZ

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