Every day of the past year seemed to bring a new beauty launch, making it hard to tell exactly which debuts were worth paying attention to, and which were simply more noise.

Thankfully, after a year of trying, experimenting and then trying again, I’ve narrowed down 25 of the standout beauty launches of the year, chosen for a combination of innovative formulations, pleasing packaging, and the offering up of something new.

From contouring palettes to workout apps, Japanese make-up brushes and fragrance designed for your clothes, we're certain there’s something here for everyone. And, with the festive season looming, it doubles as a handy gift guide – whether indulging yourself or a loved one.

Make-up

Hair and body care

Perfume

Skincare

Wellness

I hadn’t heard of Dr. Macrene before I arrived for the UK launch of her skincare line, but for some of the editors sitting around the breakfast table with me, the chance to speak to the New York based dermatologist evoked an excitement that equalled a teenager meeting a pop star. ‘I’ve been waiting years for the chance to try this brand,’ one told me before we sat down.

Rumor has it that Dr. Macrene’s dermatology practice maintains the skin of some of the world’s most famous actresses and models, and although she’s discreet enough never to share names, she certainly has the credentials to warrant the claim. She is a Fulbright Scholar with three Harvard degrees, the author of two textbooks and the rare status of being board-certified in the EU and US (to name just a few of her accolades).

It was impressive to hear about how the forty plus years of research Macrene has done in plant sciences, molecular genetics, and dermatology led her to identify the plant-based ingredients that form the foundation of her products; but I really knew there was something to her skincare after a few weeks of using it for myself. ‘You look…younger or something’ one friend told me over dinner. ‘Are you taking some kind of new supplement,’ another asked. ‘You look so well,’ one PR told me with a disconcerting amount of surprise. ’So many people are telling me I look better, I’m starting to worry about what I looked like before,’ I messaged one friend. ‘You just clearly got a little botox or something,’ he responded. But I hadn’t gotten botox. The only thing that has changed was that I was using Dr Macrene’s cleanser, cream and serum twice a day.

So to get to the bottom of Dr. Macrene’s magic, I asked her to share more about what sets her skincare apart and share her insight into getting, and maintaining, the best skin of your life.

A conversation with Dr. Macrene

What makes your skincare work so well?

Every formula is built on decades of my own dermatologic, scientific, and clinical peer-reviewed research. Every product contains the maximum number of active ingredients delivered with my patented liposomal system for maximum penetration – without occlusives. It’s plant-based, scientifically validated, and results-driven. Instead of marketing trends, I’ve put up to 55 active ingredients into each product – delivered by a patented liposomal system – so they penetrate deeply and work for durable long term results. The formulas are free of occlusives, so your skin can actually breathe and absorb. That’s why they perform like nothing else out there.

Is there a “holy grail” skincare step that most people overlook?

Consistency. A daily regimen with well-formulated actives is far more powerful than chasing trends or quick fixes. People chase trendy products but overlook disciplined, daily application of a high-quality regimen that targets all the pathways of skin health. Layering can be beneficial, but so does using products that deliver numerous actives and are designed to penetrate rather than sit on the surface. That’s why I designed my formulas to maximise actives delivery without occlusives, using my patented liposomal system.

As a dermatologist, what is the biggest mistake you see people making with their skin?

The biggest mistake is neglecting daily repair and protection. Injectables or procedures can’t substitute for a solid skincare foundation. Thinking quick fixes, such as lasers, injectables, or the newest fad, can substitute for a real skincare foundation is like expecting the dentist to save your teeth when you don’t brush. Skin health is cumulative. Neglecting daily repair and protection is the single greatest mistake I see.

Do different areas of the skin deserve different types of treatment and different times of life? Can you give some insight into what people should be focusing on in their 20s, 30s, 40s etc.

Yes. In your 20s, focus on protection – SPF and antioxidants. By your 30s, add repair for early lines and pigmentation. In your 40s and beyond, collagen support and renewal are key. Delicate zones like under-eyes, neck, and chest often age faster and need tailored care.

Are there any questions your patients frequently come to you with that you wish everyone knew the answer to?

People constantly ask me, 'What’s the one product I need?' The truth is, skin health is multi-dimensional – and in the past, no single product could do it all. This is why I formulated the High Performance Face Cream, Extra Rich and Tinted Moisturizer with 45-55 actives, for each product to stand alone as the one product to address all aspects of skin health. While in most instances, you need a complete system to target repair, protection, collagen support, and pigment regulation simultaneously, such multi-tasking is now achievable with my One Step Skincare formulations, such as the Face Cream or the Tinted Moisturizer.

Do those who have fillers, Botox and plastic surgery have different skincare needs? If so, can you offer more insight into the specific needs of people who are regularly receiving such treatments?

Yes they do. Injectables may address volume and lines, but skincare is what keeps the surface healthy, radiant, and natural-looking. In fact, skincare is what makes these procedures look natural and enduring. Without it, you just look 'done.'

Are there any skincare fads you want to warn people against trying? Any that you think are positive? How much of skin health is genetics vs. daily habits?

Avoid aggressive routines – such as over-exfoliating or using DIY acids – and steer clear of heavy occlusive trends like slugging or layering oils, petrolatum, and waxes popularised on TikTok. Positive trends include SPF awareness and microbiome balance. Genetics set your baseline, but habits and skincare determine how you age.

What innovations or scientific breakthroughs do you think will transform the way our skin looks and ages in the next 10–20 years?

My work as a MD Dermatologist and PhD geneticist is focused on identifying the genes that are responsible for skin aging using biobanks and DNA analysis. My work on DNA repair and regenerative medicine will transform skincare. We are developing topical treatments that truly reverse damage, not just slow it. Combining biotechnology with plant science is going to push the boundaries of what’s possible for skin health and longevity.

macreneactives.com

Refillable beauty has revolutionised the industry, with the aim of reducing surplus packaging waste; only about nine per cent of that packaging would have been recycled, according to the British Beauty Council.

Here, across make-up, skincare, fragrance and haircare, Wallpaper* edits a selection of the best refillable beauty packaging designs that you’ll want to keep in pride of place on your vanity table or bathroom shelf, from the likes of Dries van Noten, Hermès, Noble Panacea, Perfumer H, Davines and more.

The best of refillable beauty design, edited by Wallpaper*

Refillable make-up

Refillable skincare

Refillable fragrance

Refillable haircare

Spanish beauty brand Rowse – known for its minimalist, plant-based skincare – unveiled its first standalone flagship store in Madrid last year (2024). Now, marking another milestone moment, it has expanded into make-up, with a debut collection of products named Longevity Makeup.

Here, Nuria Val and Gabriela Salord, who founded Rowse in 2018, combine their distinctly botanical approach with scientific innovations in the field of biotechnology. ‘Venturing into make-up felt like a natural progression,’ Nuria Val tells Wallpaper*. ‘After years of developing skincare focused on long-term skin health, we saw an opportunity to bring that same philosophy to this new category.’

Rowse make-up

It took two years of research and development before Val and Salord arrived at the final formulations for Rowse’s initial ‘make-up-meets-skincare’ offering: The Tinted Glow Serum With Exosomes, Shimmer Eyeshadow, Cream Highlighter and Lip & Cheek Balm.

The Goji-derived exosomes in the tinted serum are high-powdered botanical actives, created using biotech processes such as cellular fermentation. They act as microscopic messengers that, as Salord explains, ‘stimulate collagen production to regenerate the skin.’ Other ingredients included across Longevity Makeup include açai extract, mimosa wax, and jojoba esters, each working beyond surface-level enhancement to support lasting skin vitality. ‘Integrating these advanced ingredients into breathable, clean make-up took extensive research,’ Salord adds. ‘But the results are transformative – it’s everything we ever imagined.’

Rowse’s approach to make-up favours subtle ‘enhancement’ over complete coverage. By eschewing synthetic additives, all pigments are naturally derived, and also take direct inspiration from the quiet hues of the natural world. ‘Colour should complement rather than conceal,’ says Val, who strived to create a palette that feels like ‘an extension of the skin’. Across the Shimmer Eyeshadows, Cream Highlighters and Lip & Cheek Balms, you’ll find an array of warm wood tones, soft petal pinks, and muted greens referencing the softness of forest moss.

While the initial selection of shades remains intentionally concise, Longevity Makeup is designed to sit harmoniously across a spectrum of skin tones with lightweight and buildable textures. The product edit itself is also kept to a minimum, focusing on multifunctionality and unfussy, instinctive application. The result is an effortless collection of everyday essentials with, as Val emphasises, ‘a hint of playfulness’.

Longevity Makeup is designed to work in tune with the skin rather than against it. As Salord explains in a Reel posted on Rowse’s Instagram account last week (15 May 2025), it’s make-up that is ‘so safe you could actually sleep in it’. In addition, these high-performing, multifunctional formulations cut down on the need for an increased number of product categories, in line with a ‘buy less, buy better’ consumption practice, whilst biotechnology significantly cuts down on water use, land exploitation and carbon footprint, when compared with traditional botanical extraction methods.

‘The beauty industry has responded kind of slowly, but thanks to the pressure from hundreds of independent brands like ours that are doing everything to provide cleaner, safer formulations [we are] answering the consumer’s demands,’ Salord continues in the Reel.

It’s a statement reinforced by The International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association in a January 2025 report on the future of the natural beauty market: ‘Overall, the new year looks set to be key to setting the foundations shaping the future framework for natural and organic cosmetics innovation, compliance and communication as we move towards 2030,’ it reads.

With Longevity Makeup, Rowse is solidifying its role as a key player in shaping this trajectory.

Longevity Makeup by Rowse is available now.

rowse.co

For Athena Hewett, aesthetician and founder of Monastery, her skincare philosophy took shape after years of battling stubborn acne, only to find an unexpected solution during a month-long backpacking trip, when her skin suddenly, and almost completely, cleared up.

‘I remember looking in the mirror and wondering why my skin looked so much better when I had done absolutely nothing to it?’ she recalls. But the moment Hewitt returned to San Francisco, where she and the brand are based, and resumed her old skincare routine, the breakouts returned. Frustrated, she began developing her all-natural formulations, giving rise to Monastery, a brand built on preservation rather than intervention.

Monastery’s botanical skincare has a cult following for its ‘less is more’ approach

Hewett’s first creation, the Rose Cleansing Oil, wasn’t designed to strip the skin but to support its microbiome, allowing it to maintain its natural balance. ‘It was a way to take off sunscreen at the end of the day without doing anything disruptive,’ she explains. It was 2011 at the time, and ‘microbiome’ wasn’t yet a buzzword in skincare. But Hewett instinctively understood that preserving the skin’s bacterial environment was key. ‘Oil molecules are large, so they sit on the surface and dissolve impurities without penetrating or disturbing the skin barrier,’ she says.

Hewett’s expertise, honed over 10 years as an aesthetician at that point, meant she had an immediate test audience: her clients. As the acne specialist at a spa, she began using the oil in treatments and noticed striking results. ‘Nine times out of ten, it worked,’ she says. ‘I had assumed my acne was hormonal, but this made me rethink everything. Maybe it was a topical issue all along.’ Encouraged by her success, she expanded her range, formulating products that complemented the Rose Cleansing Oil rather than competing with it. Her second formulation, the Gold Botanical Serum, was designed to heal pigmentation left behind by acne, packed with vitamins and omegas to nourish and restore.

By the time she officially launched Monastery, Hewett had refined her formulas through years of hands-on experience. At a time when skincare was becoming increasingly complex, her approach was the opposite: fewer products, better results. Monastery’s ‘quiet luxury’ ethos reflects Hewett’s view of skincare as a ritual, a practice, a moment of stillness. The name itself comes from a deeply personal place. ‘My mother was Greek, and as we flipped through old family photo albums, I came across a picture of a monastery near my great-grandmother’s home,’ she explains, ‘The word struck me – it evoked quiet, ritual, self-care. It just made sense.’

Ingredients for Monastery’s products are sourced globally, always with an emphasis on the highest-quality botanicals. ‘In the beginning, I worked with tiny farmers, but as the brand grew, that became unsustainable,’ Hewett says. ‘It’s not unlike winemaking – ingredients change with the seasons, and that affects texture, scent, and feel.’ But staying hands-on remains essential. ‘Our lab is here [in San Francisco], I’m here, and we can experiment freely,’ she says. ‘If I have an idea, I can make it, test it with our aestheticians, and refine it in real time.’

Recently, Monastery’s commitment to ritual-driven skincare found a natural partner in Ara’kai, a Copenhagen-based spa founded by Heydi Vasquez. After 15 years in fashion, Vasquez craved something more meaningful, drawing on her Dominican upbringing to create a space where beauty is seen as a practice of nourishment and balance.

She first discovered Monastery on a trip to New York and was immediately drawn to its purity and sensory approach. ‘From our very first conversation, Athena and I knew we wanted to collaborate – it was just a matter of finding the right way and the right time,’ Vasquez says. The partnership materialised during the most recent Copenhagen Fashion Week in February (2025) with Ara’kai becoming the exclusive European home of the Monastery Super Glow Signature Facial, a treatment that blends lush botanical formulations with sculpting massage techniques for a results-driven yet deeply restorative experience.

Back in the states, Monastery has just teamed up with the spa at New York’s Hotel Chelsea, with Hewitt as its inaugural ‘artist in residence’. This comes off the back of the brand taking care of skin backstage at Khaite’s A/W 2025 show at New York Fashion Week this year. Here, Hewitt and her products were key in creating the runway beauty, which focused on matte, bare-looking skin.

Backstage, she prepped models using a soon-to-launch Monastery product featuring a proprietary ingredient never before used in skincare. ‘It can be used both as a cleanser and a moisturiser,’ Hewett teases. The routine was finished with Monastery’s Aloe serum and the Coppola x Monastery Hideaway Essence – a product Hewitt created in collaboration with director Sofia Coppola, with who she has been working with as a client for just over a year – ensuring a perfectly hydrated, balanced, and shine-free complexion that complemented Diane Kendal’s make-up direction.

One of the most recent additions to its line-up is The Deep Red, an at-home LED deep red light mask, which hit shelves at the end of 2024. But as Monastery and its cult following continue to grow, Hewett remains committed to the philosophy that started it all: simplicity, efficacy, and respect for the skin’s natural balance.

In a world of ever-expanding routines, her vision is welcomed, proving that sometimes, less truly is more.

monasterymade.com

Mushroom beta-glucans are a powerhouse in hydration and healing, according to Sonia Gaillis-Delepine, founder of new French skincare and supplement brand Verdoie.

From alternative fashion materials to the literal building blocks of tomorrow’s cities, mycology (the study of mushrooms) is driving a new wave of innovation across industries. One key area is wellness, where, between Dyson’s mushroom-powered Beauty Tech, bio-based perfumes, and the projected $2.98 billion mushroom cosmetics market, there’s a growing consensus on the popularity and myriad benefits of fungi. But mushrooms are not just ‘the moment’ for Gaillis-Delepine. In fact, they have been an integral part of her family for five generations.

The benefits of mushroom beta-glucans can be found in hydrating French skincare by Verdoie

The Delepines have a long history with mycelium, with Sonia’s great, great, great grandfather Pierre-Louis growing Champignon de Paris in the 1870s on a subterranean plot beneath the streets of the French capital. Eventually, the Delepine catacombs were shuttered in the 1900s when the city began working on its iconic metro system and concerns over structural integrity took precedence. Though mycology ceased to be the primary family occupation, it remained a pivotal force, with Sonia’s father spending childhood summers in Breisach am Rhein near the German Black Forest, foraging for chanterelles and girolles, later imparting the dietary benefits of fungi. ‘Mushrooms have always been a culinary staple in our home,’ says Gaillis-Delepine. ‘We’ve long understood how immuno-supportive they are, as well as an excellent source of vitamins and minerals.’

Gaillis-Delepine’s route back to mycology was circuitous. Born in France, she moved to America as a child and studied communications before returning for her master’s degree. While working a 9-5, she took time off to visit Plum Village, Nobel Peace Prize-nominated Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh’s Buddhist retreat near Bordeaux, where she fell in love with modern agriculture. ‘I was inspired to help on their organic and regenerative farm – learning about cover crops, seasonal eating, soil health.’ From here, she gravitated toward perfumery, taking a role at DSM-Firmenich, where she deepened her understanding of organic suppliers and their craft. ‘I loved learning about Firmenich’s relationship with our farmers – the terrains, where the ingredients come from, the supply chain – being so close to the source,’ she says. ‘It felt so human and emotional.’

Gaillis-Delepine had always suffered from stress-induced skin sensitivities and was reactive to often harsh topical treatments. She had previously experimented with organic cures, but through her work at Firmenich, realised she could bridge her family’s legacy with real-world medical benefits. She began studying organic skincare formulation, learning about anhydrous formulations, emulsions, surfactant systems – the nitty gritty behind developing a beauty line – as well as ingredient compatibility and functions and preservative systems.

From there, she surveyed the beauty landscape and tinkered with how to address skin concerns while developing product ideas, later recruiting an ex-Clinique and Soft Services formulator and the former herbalist for Moon Juice for what would become Verdoie. The brand launched this week (27 January 2025) with a luxurious, nutrient-rich moisturiser, La Crème Hydratante. Containing three different types of mushroom with different properties (chaga is calming and tremella hydrates, whilst shiitake clarifies) the cream also includes SymRepair to boost barrier function. An accompanying supplement, Le Complément Alimentaire, features more tremella, alongside the apoptogenic reishi mushroom, plus Ceramosides and antioxidants such as vitamin E.

‘I was taking mushrooms to support my immune system and saw it was doing wonders for my skin,’ says Gaillis-Delepine, reiterating that mycelium’s powerful beta-glucans have incredibly potent abilities to retain moisture and are a rich antioxidant that can support skin and prevent oxidative stress. (Since fungi require less water, land, and human resources than many other ingredients, they’re also quite sustainable). ‘I realised that the mushrooms I had always loved were magical, not only because they can proliferate without adding excess complexity to the environment, but also because they are power-packed ingredients that truly do more with less.’

Verdoie’s mushrooms are hand-harvested in an underground parking garage, attached to a social housing complex. As a public benefit corporation, Verdoie is on track to achieve B-Corp certification after one year in business. ‘My great, great, great grandfather selected the catacombs for their perfect microclimate – dark, humid with a stable temperature – and what it meant for underground production and year-round farming,’ she explains. ‘Working in an urban farm feels like a wink to that legacy.’

Verdoie is also designed to support immediate needs while serving a preventive purpose. ‘Your skin is an incredible technology, and it's evolved to protect you against a changing climate and the outside world,’ says Gaillis-Delepine, noting that topicals can only go so far and that building skin health from the inside out is a necessity, hence her desire to also create a supplement. (The cream and supplement can be bought and used together as the Le Shroom Stack).

‘Mushrooms are incredible organisms that sustain ecosystems and challenge our understanding of individuality. They illuminate interdependence,’ Gaillis-Delepine continues, speaking of fungi’s innate ability to create regenerative micro-communities. ‘Our vision at Verdoie is to redefine people’s relationship with mushrooms and elevate them as an everyday choice for natural health and vitality.’ And perhaps, along the way, even change the template of what a 21st-century beauty brand can look and feel like.

verdoie.com

This edit of face and body cleansers will aid in starting the new year afresh. (Plus, as it’s the first day of 2025, suffice to say many of us could use a little help in the post-NYE rejuvenation process).

Against a make-up-eliminating Augustinus Bader cleansing balm and a Chanel gel-to-oil formula, the remnants of last night’s mascara stand little chance. And to soothe sore muscles (or heads, for that matter) look no further than an Alpine-inspired bath soak by Susanne Kaufmann.

Read on for more purifying products with the Wallpaper* seal of approval.

Face and body cleansers for a fresh new year

Augustinus Bader (above)

Containing the brand’s signature TFC8 technology, developed by Professor Augustinus Bader for optimum cell renewal, ‘The Cleansing Balm’ is a gentle formula that effortlessly dissolves make-up and impurities, turning into a milky texture upon contact with water. Unlike many other balm cleansers, it leaves no trace of residue. So those with clog-prone skin can proceed without caution.

Augustinus Bader ‘The Cleansing Balm’, £62.

augustinusbader.com

Mirror Water

As Estée Lalonde, the founder of London-based brand self-care brand Mirror Water points out: ‘When have you ever regretted taking a bath?’ And in the case of New Year’s Day, never a truer word was spoken, particularly when said bath is sprinkled with Mirror Water’s ‘Soak Bath Salts’. Made entirely from naturally derived Himalayan and magnesium salt the product is also infused with essential oils, which radiate a deeply comforting aroma.

Mirror Water ‘Soak Bath Salts’, £38.

mirrorwater.earth

Aesop

Some skincare products are considered ‘cult classics’ for good reason, such as the ‘Geranium Leaf’ body cleanser by Aesop. With a verdant and citrusy fragrance, this bath and shower gel may have a low-foaming, gentle formula. But its potent ability to leave one feeling thoroughly refreshed (and, in this instance, ready to take on whatever awaits you in 2025) is unmatched.

Aesop ‘Geranium Leaf’ body cleanser, £39.

aesop.com

MyBlend

Last year, Wallpaper* featured MyBlend’s ‘myLED’ face mask in the February 2024 Design Awards issue. But we are also fans of the brand’s skincare products, too, including the ‘Revitalising Cream moisturiser and the ‘Exfoliating Body Gel-Cream’. The latter is a body treatment providing both chemical and manual exfoliation that removes dry and dull skin to unveil a whole ‘new you’.

myBlend ‘Exfoliating Body Gel-Cream’, £100.

uk.myblend.com

Chanel

Chanel’s ‘Sublimage’ skincare range contains a hero antioxidant developed by the house in its Madagascar Sky Lab, called Polyfractioned Vanilla Planifolia. (Read more about this in Wallpaper’s feature on the ‘Sublimage L’Extrait de Nuit’ night serum, here). The ‘Sublimage Gel-to-Oil Cleanser’ features Vanilla Planifolia Water in particular. Starting as a gel, upon contact with the skin the product turns into a make-up removing oil, before finally transforming into a nourishing milk.

Chanel ‘Sublimage Gel-to-Oil Cleanser’, £95.

chanel.com

Dr Barbara Sturm

Incredibly gentle on sensitive or irritated skin needing a reset for the new year, Dr Barbara Sturm’s ‘Cleanser’ not only removes make-up and impurities but has the benefit of strengthening skin barrier function, with calming and soothing ingredients such as purslane and aloe vera, plus vitamin E and glycerine. One pump dispenses the ideal amount of foam-based formula, which thickens up into a creamy texture when lathered.

Dr Barbara Sturm ‘Cleanser’, £55.

drsturm.com

Susanne Kaufmann

Mother of sustainable luxury skincare Susanne Kaufmann founded her namesake natural beauty brand on the principles of Austrian Alpine living. The ‘Mountain Pine Bath’ soak, is designed to ease tension, soothe the skin and stimulate blood circulation, with extracts of mountain pine oil and spruce needle oil. (The recycled glass bottle even contains a hand-picked spruce sprig).

Susanne Kaufmann ‘Mountain Pine Bath’, £55.

susannekaufmann.com

VitraHaus has joined forces with Zurich-based natural skincare brand Soeder to produce its first self-care item: a liquid soap called ‘Ever Green’, which can be used as hand wash or in the bath and shower.

The product pays tribute to the 4,000 square-foot Vitra Campus garden. Containing 30,000 species of plants and flowers, it sits between Álvaro Siza’s production facility and VitraHaus by Herzog & de Meuron, the company’s flagship store which opened in 2010 as a place to celebrate its home collection.

VitraHaus designs its first skincare product in collaboration with Soeder

Till Weber, Vitra’s creative director of interiors and scenography, worked closely with the Swedish founders of Soeder, Hanna and Johan Olzon Åkerström to bring this project to life.

It began with the trio taking walks together in the Vitra Campus garden, discussing their shared ideas and values. ‘We wanted to capture this moment and experience together,’ says architect Hanna Olzon Åkerström, who founded the company (which recently received investment from Breitling CEO Georges Kern) with her husband in 2013. ‘We gave it a scent, and we put it in a natural soap.’

‘Ever Green’ was formulated in the Zurich-based Soeder laboratories, which uses traditional saponification processes, organic plant-based oils and ingredients such as wheat protein, Swiss honey and shea butter to make the brand’s soaps, shampoos, lotions and deodorants.

Its subtle aroma contains fresh notes of mint, rosemary and citrus, the warmth of patchouli and the heady scent of the evergreen laurel leaf. A linocut illustration of the laurel leaf branch also appears on the front of the bottle.

‘At the VitraHaus we create interiors that inspire and many details are needed,’ says Weber. ‘As we are surrounded by nature we always try to involve it.’

The ‘Ever Green’ soap now brings the essence of Vitra Campus’ gardens directly into the space, as a botanical addition to the architecture, furniture scenarios, shop and café. (It can also be found in Vitra showrooms in major cities around the world).

‘EVER GREEN’ is available at the VitraHaus shop, at Soeder locations and its online store.

vitra.com

soeder.ch

Sunscreen is a non-negotiable skincare step all year round, but never more so than now, as we head into summer. As Baz Luhrman’s 1999 spoken word track Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen) proclaimed: ‘If I could offer you only one tip for the future, sunscreen would be it.’ In 2026, it’s a sentiment taken as gospel, reflected in the ever-evolving roster of sun care products now available. So finding an SPF you truly love involves a degree of trial and error – particularly when it comes to those designed for the face.

Some SPFs can cause sensitive skin to break out, or be unsuitable for your skin tone, while others might ‘pill’ when mixed with certain make-up products. There’s also a choice to be made between physical (mineral) or chemical sunscreen. The former sits on the surface of the skin, creating a ‘shield’ that stops harmful UV rays from penetrating, whereas the latter absorbs them. In addition, compliance regulations – rules by medical or governing bodies written to ensure SPF products are created with safety and efficacy – vary from country to country. Dermatologists usually recommend an SPF rating of 30 or above, however, for maximum protection against UVA and UVB rays. UVA is responsible for ageing, whilst UVB causes burning, so opting for a ‘broad spectrum’ SPF ensures you get the best protection from both.

Here, beauty editor Mary Cleary and contributing editor Hannah Tindle have whittled down a definitive list of facial sunscreens with the Wallpaper* stamp of approval. From a luxuriously tinted balm by Hermès to sport-ready protection from Hard Sun – plus quintessential French and Korean formulations from La Roche-Posay and Beauty of Joseon – if you’re in the market for a new SPF, this article is the place to start looking.

The best sunscreens for your face, selected by the Wallpaper* beauty editors

Beauty of Joseon

Emma Lewisham

Horace

Alta Marea

Hermès

Hard Sun

Dr. Barbara Sturm

Herbar

Raeso

Dr. Dennis Gross

Mecca Cosmetica

Supergoop!

Dulcie

Rationale

La Prairie

At the Chanel Open-Sky Lab in Gaujacq, the camellia (one of Gabrielle Chanel’s enduring sources of inspiration) blooms. This flower was said to be her favourite of all, embodying the couturier’s signature style through effortless beauty and clean, graphic lines.

In 1924, Chanel brought its first make-up line to the market, which was soon followed by skincare in 1927. Each lotion, cream or soap contained floral extracts from the horticulture planted in the fields at Grasse, where ingredients for the house’s signature fragrances – ‘Chanel No.5’ and ‘No.22’ – were also cultivated. One such product was the ‘Huile de Jasmin’ facial oil, loved for its revolutionary non-greasy texture and delicate scent designed to evoke the rolling natural landscape of the world’s perfume capital.

Inside the Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory in Gaujacq

Still sold today, the oil also contains camellia extracts. But it wasn’t until the late 1990s that Chanel scientists began exploring the full cosmetic potential of this flower. They were particularly intrigued by its ability to thrive in harsh winter conditions. Research soon commenced into its ‘senescence program’, or lack thereof. (To put it in layman’s terms: the camellia is not genetically programmed to die). Here, they discovered that the Camellia Japonica variant in particular, contains a veritable goldmine of restorative and revitalising compounds that could be harnessed in skincare.

Camellia Japonica is now the principal ingredient in Chanel’s ‘Hydra Beauty’ and ‘N°1 de Chanel’ skincare collections. It’s the powerhouse behind products like the ‘Hydra Beauty Crème’ (which I would describe as ‘a facial in a jar’) and the new ‘N°1 de Chanel Revitalising Eye Serum’, which visibly tightens and brightens the skin. The effects of said products are rather miraculous. And this is in thanks to place they are made – Chanel’s Open-Sky Laboratory in Gaujacq – where science and magic feel like one and the same.

Located in a small village in Southwestern France, The Gaujacq Open-Sky Laboratory is a place where 3,000 plants are grown, harvested, and researched; where scientists and farmers are constantly collaborating on new methods of sustainable agriculture; where species have been saved from extinction and reappeared in the region having vanished for decades. It is made up of three main sites: a conservatory garden that houses 2,000 varieties of camellias; the on-site phytoanalysis laboratory, where the Chanel Research team studies the camellia; and the farm, which comprises of 70 hectares of farmland, 40 hectares of which are devoted to camellias.

Here, Chanel has created a mini-ecosystem and research centre in one. ‘This is very important for us, because it allows us to be near the plant, to study in detail the effects of the seasons and the [different] agricultural practices we have,’ says Nicola Fuzzati, Director of Innovation and Development of Cosmetic Ingredients. (Chanel has four other open-sky laboratories, in Madagascar, Bhutan, Costa Rica and Grasse. But Gaujacq is unique in that the farm and laboratory are on the same premises).

The Camellia Japonica is farmed without any chemical inputs, according to a complex, experimental cultivation method developed by the Crop Operations Manager, Philippe Grandry. This consists of creating a symbiosis between the plants, the soil and the water that nourishes them, through surrounding the camellia plant with a strategic network of trees, shrubs, bushes and ground cover plants. ‘We want to make our environment better.’ says Fuzzati. ‘In conventional agriculture, you kill the biological life living in the ground. Our practice allows us to restore living organisms in the ground, and consequently grow [healthier] plants.’

Once the camellias are ready to be harvested in the spring, they are picked by hand and then immediately frozen to preserve the integrity of their active molecules, before being delivered to the laboratory. There, Fuzzati and his team engage in an endless process of analysing every facet of the camellia, formulating patented ingredients exclusive to Chanel Beauty.

‘From the camellia, Nicola and his team have the opportunity to create different active ingredients,’ says Chanel’s International Scientific Communication Director, Armelle Souraud. ‘With the technology in his lab, Nicola has created a kind of ID Card of the plant that allows him to see exactly what is inside; to know exactly what we want to focus on and to eliminate all the elements we don’t. In the end, rather than using the total plant, we obtain a pure concentrate of the molecules we are interested in. It’s a customised, tailor-made process.’

These ingredients include ‘Camellia Alba PFA’, a pure extract of the white camellia flower that has a unique ability to help skin maintain an optimal moisture level within its cells. (This is one of the foundational components of the ‘Hydra Beauty’ range). There’s also the red camellia flower and its ‘The Czar’ extract, the core of the ‘N°1 de Chanel’ line. Across both, Camellia yeast extract is a patented active ingredient Chanel co-developed with experts in Japan, which protects and hydrates by reinforcing the skin barrier function.

The Gaujacq project began in 1998, but it was not until 2009 that Chanel had its first harvest of Camellia Japonica. Whilst patience is key to its success, so is longevity. Creating an environment that endures is paramount to those at the Gaujacq Open Sky Lab, who are already looking forward to the next 20 years, at least.

‘Our objective is to inspire the younger generation and to show how to benefit the region by doing things differently. This is why students sometimes come to the lab at Gaujacq to learn about our practices and research,’ says Fuzzati. ‘The same is true of the farmers around Gaujacq who we speak to about different ways to harvest and to imagine, all together, the future of this land. We don’t want to keep buying more and more land; we want to work with what is already here, to develop a new kind of agriculture, to develop a community.’

Discover more about The Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory at chanel.com.

In 2023, Susanne Kaufmann celebrated 20 years of her namesake brand. As one of the earliest pioneers of the natural beauty and skincare movement, the secret to her success isn’t difficult to unlock. Born and raised in the Austrian Alps, Kaufmann brought the herbs, plants, and flowers that grow around that region – and are known for various healing properties – down from the mountains and into her products. (She began formulating said products for face and body, to be used in the medical spa of Hotel Post, a retreat in the Bregenzerwald that has been in her family for five generations).

Today, she’s speaking to me over a video call, having just marked the launch of her first-ever face oil. And, I have to ask: why has it taken so long for her to launch one? ‘We have always used the best natural oils in our body products, whether that’s sunflower, apricot, rosehip, broccoli, or celery,’ she explains. ‘They are so very appreciated by our customers, and a lot of them would ask me why we don’t make an oil for the face. It took us a long while to develop it because, in every formula we do, we start from scratch. And taking the time to do proper research into the product is also key to what we do.’

Susanne Kaufmann

The final blend of oils performs in multiple ways to support optimum skin function on the face. Lightweight and readily absorbed, there’s bilberry seed oil to support the skin barrier, astaxanthin, an antioxidant derived from blood rain algae which revitalises and smooths, (and also provides the oil’s deep orange hue), and apricot kernel oil for additional moisture. ‘It was vital to me that we created a product that is suitable for every skin type. No matter if you’re dry or oily, everyone needs moisture. The skin barrier also needs protection, which was perhaps the most important thing we aimed to achieve with this oil. Also, no one wants an oil that sits on top of the skin and doesn’t absorb. It needs to be silky, lightweight and perfect for make-up application afterwards.’

Kaufmann notes that the oil is also ideal for mixing into existing skincare products, such as her day and night moisturisers, for an additional boost of nourishment, or even into her Moisturising Mask.

‘Sustainability’ has become somewhat of a beauty buzzword over the past few years. But Kaufmann, having led the way with authenticity since the start, has no plans to launch any other face oil products. ‘We have made the perfect face oil that works. Every product we make has to be useful and work universally. We never create things just because there is a trend for it. From the very beginning, sustainability was in our DNA. That's why I started with glass bottles, which was a little bit of a fight because people told me I was crazy for having glass bottles in the bathroom. But, it was recyclable. I refused to use plastic. And back then, plastic was even worse [for the environment] than it is now!’ 

With recent collaborations with the likes of Byredo (Kaufmann and Ben Gohram came together at the end of 2023 to produce a body oil that captured the scent of the Bregenzerwald) and the appointment of a new CEO, the brand is continuing along its balanced trajectory, working with care and intention to speak to its cult audience.

‘The whole whole world is now talking about sustainability,’ Kaufmann continues. ‘It became a trend, but now, I think it’s moving towards an industry standard, and most brands incorporate it into their business in some way. Soon, I believe it will become a law.’ It goes to show that slow and steady really does win the race.

Susanne Kaufmann Face Oil is available now (£65).

susannekaufmann.com

Rowse is a plant-based beauty brand on a mission to embrace nature in all forms. It was on a particularly grey Parisian afternoon in 2018 when Spanish travel photographer Nuria Val and Gabriela Salord (a French marketing expert in the cosmetic sector) crossed paths. The serendipitous encounter marked the start of not only their friendship but the birth of the skincare brand, which uses cold-pressed, organic ingredients.

Paired with the knowledge of pharmacist Lamia el Kadiri, Rowse quickly grew into a line of face serums, body oils, shampoo bars, perfumes, and more. Fast forward six years, and after firmly planting its roots as one of the most coveted online marketplaces for natural beauty, Rowse has opened the doors to its debut flagship store in Madrid. The space represents the brand’s first standalone brick-and-mortar store, outside of its various pop-up locations across Europe. Located at Calle Vallehermoso 114 in the charming district of Chamberí, the store spans two floors featuring a boutique and wellness space for a multi-sensory retail experience. 

Inside the Rowse flagship store, designed by Isern Serra

‘Transitioning from an online presence to a physical space is an exciting step forward,’ Val and Salord tell Wallpaper*. With Val’s social presence as a reputable photographer and Salord’s reputation in beauty and business, it comes as no surprise that Rowse has garnered a vast following across Europe, notably in Scandinavia and the Mediterranean. ‘Our online community has grown tremendously and it’s incredibly rewarding to now have the opportunity to connect with them face-to-face,’ they continue. ‘This opening symbolises the shared values and aspirations of a growing community. It’s a tangible representation of the increasing awareness and support for brands like ours, that prioritise sustainability and environmental responsibility.’ 

The concern for environmental responsibility extends beyond the products and into the retail space, which is designed to cultivate a welcoming Mediterranean atmosphere. Barcelona-based architectural firm Isern Serra, who was previously tasked with designing Rowse’s Barcelona showroom in 2021, was enlisted once again.

The store incorporates responsibly produced fixtures from local craftsmen, against a minimal backdrop of white micro cement. Hints of earthy tones permeate the space, through wooden fixtures, terracotta hues and green potted plants. Furnishings are contemporary; a standout feature is the Muuto lamp and chair that grace the entrance, accompanied by long white curtains from family-led Spanish fabric house, Guell Lamadrid. Downstairs in the wellness space, terracotta walls create a ‘serene ambience’, lit by a bespoke light installation by Santa & Cole.

‘We want to cultivate a sense of warmth and comfort, allowing visitors to feel at home and at ease,’ explain Val and Salord. This is very much in keeping with the Rowse ethos, which almost operates as a global community as well as a skincare brand, encouraging connectivity through workshops and creative collaborations. ‘We’re diving headfirst into the world of wellness, with plans to host retreats across Europe, starting with Mallorca in the Balearic Islands,’ the founders say.

‘As for why we chose Madrid and this particular building, it's deeply personal,’ Val and Salord continue. ‘Madrid holds a special place in our hearts, as it's where our journey together began. It only felt natural to realise our dream of opening our flagship store in this vibrant and dynamic city.’ Another factor in selecting this location was the availability of an underground floor. We envisioned transforming it into a beauty oasis where we could provide facial treatments and host workshops. 

‘We’ve got some incredible plans brewing behind the scenes. While we can’t reveal all the details just yet, we’re continuously working on expanding our product line and exploring new ways to connect with our community.’

The Rowse flagship is located at Calle Vallehermoso 114, 28003, Madrid, showcasing the full product collection starting from €25.

rowse.co

Over her 55-year-long practice, artist Marina Abramović has pushed the limits of the physical body and toyed with the possibilities of the mind. This spans from her controversial early work in the 1970s, titled Rhythm Series, to her collaborative pieces with Ulay, and the renowned 2010 performance The Artist is Present, staged at MoMA, in which the Belgrade-born artist elicited intense emotional responses in audience members by staring at them in silence.

Abramović has since tied the threads of her work together to form The Abramović Method, a series of mindfulness techniques that can be applied to everyday life. This can involve such actions as counting grains of rice, opening and closing a door, or slowly and consciously drinking a glass of water over a 20-minute timeframe. (It reportedly even helped Lady Gaga quit smoking).

Marina Abramović: The Longevity Method

Now (January 2023), Abramović has launched a range of skincare and wellness products that incorporate key principles of The Abramović Method. ‘The Abramović Longevity Method is a lifestyle and a philosophy that emphasises the importance of living in harmony with nature,’ she explains. ‘It is rooted in the belief that true beauty and vitality come from nurturing ourselves holistically.’ Each product has been developed in Switzerland with Dr Nonna Brenner, a prestigious wellness practitioner with a centre located on the banks of Fuschl Am See in Austria, and is inspired by the bespoke, all-natural range of recipes she has developed for the artist over their 20-year friendship (Brenner also had a hand in Marina Abramović’s diet soup, part of our artist’s recipe series).

The product range features a face lotion that acts as a cleanser, exfoliant and moisturiser in one, and has been formulated with hydrating botanicals, essential oils, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, white bread, and white wine. Then there are three different types of botanical drops created for their energising, immunising, and anti-allergenic properties. Respectively, the drops contain fresh garlic bulb, fresh lemon, Shiajit, whole Hawthorn fruit, chilli pepper powder and flower pollen; Mumie (Shilajit) and Liquiritiae root dust; and cranberry concentrate and grape seed flour.

‘My recipes for these all-natural wellbeing products we are launching focus on embracing the philosophy of healing through nature,’ says Dr Brenner. ‘They rediscover forgotten rituals and knowledge of the past associated with beauty and wellness, reimagining them for use today, with longevity at the heart of each product. Put simply, it’s all about beauty inside and out.’

There is a limited first run of each product (2,000 units to be exact) in packaging personally designed by Marina Abramović, featuring the artist’s fingerprints, alongside those of Dr Nonna Brenner. ‘I hope that all of you can benefit from them,’ says Abramović. ‘I think that for me, as an artist, and Dr Nonna as a doctor, this is a unique collaboration.’

The Marina Abramović Longevity Method Face Lotion is available for £199. The Marina Abramović Longevity Method Drops are £99 each.

abramoviclongevity.com

The art of winter layering is not only for cashmere sweaters and oversized outerwear; but also skincare products.

In cold weather, the combination of biting winds, single-digit temperatures and low humidity weakens the skin’s protective moisture barrier, making it prone to dryness, irritation and redness. (Seeking refuge inside offers little help, as heating in homes and offices, plus hot water, is a further drain on skin hydration).

Aside from relocating to warmer climes, slathering thick and nourishing moisturisers, enveloping creams and occlusive balms on both face and body is the only way to circumvent the above. Here are some of the best, courtesy of Avène, Hermès, Omorovicza and more.

Winter layering: the best skin balms for face and body

Le Labo

Fragrance house Le Labo’s multi-purpose balm is a plant-based formula designed to comfort and soften the skin. Delicately scented with a blend of bergamot, lavender, violet, and tonka bean, the balm can be applied to dry cheeks, hands, feet and elbows. Pretty much anywhere on the face and body besides the eyes and lips, in fact. Ingredients include castor seed oil, sunflower seed wax, coconut oil and various botanical butters such as shea, mango and kokum.

Le Labo Multi-Purpose Balm, £20, lelabo.com

Avène

French skincare legacy brand Avène, which was founded in 1990 but has a history dating back to 1736, is renowned for harnessing thermal spring water for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. Case in point: it’s Cicalfate+ cream. Thick but neither cloying not greasy, it forms a protective film over the skin, working as both a moisturiser and an occlusive for ‘slugging’. Unscented and suitable for anyone and everyone, Cicalfate+ also contains sucralfate (a healing agent), alongside antibacterial zinc and copper sulfates.

Avène Cicalfate+ cream, £9.50, johnbellcroyden.co.uk

Omorovicza

Omorovicza’s skincare lineup features Hungarian thermal water at its core via a patented and mineral-rich healing concentrate. The brand’s Perfecting Lip Balm can be used as an overnight lip mask, throughout the day, or under or over lipstick to provide a slightly glossy sheen. Shea butter, ceramides, peptides and ‘hyaluronic spheres’ deeply moisturise, while eucalyptus soothes and subtly plumps.

Omorovicza Perfecting Lip Balm, £36, omorovicza.com

Deep-conditioning, nutrient-rich (and a pleasing shade of pale lilac), RéVive’s Rescue Balm Overnight Mask is a new moisture-boosting treatment designed to repair a compromised skin barrier during rest. With peptides and amino acids, the mask combats transepidermal water loss thanks to ingredients such as shea butter, aloe leaf juice and extracts of shitake and turkey tail mushrooms. It can be applied on its own or as the last step in a nighttime skincare regime, a few times a week or as needed.

RéVive’s Rescue Balm Overnight Mask, £180, reviveskincare.com

Dior

Contained in an ergonomically pleasing and compact squeezy bottle, embellished with the Dior couture logomania motif, this multifunctional balm is silky smooth and lightweight, and absorbed rapidly wherever it is applied. Don’t let this description fool you, however: it packs a punch when it comes to hydration, with shea butter, glycerin, and squalene for optimum skin nourishment.

Dior Beauty Le Baume multi-use balm, £50, selfridges.com

Hermès

‘As artisans, we are dedicated to the beauty of useful objects. Beauty contributes to this enchantment,’ said Pierre Dumas, artistic director of Hermès, when the house launched its beauty line in 2020. Naturally, the Rouge Hermès Lip Care Balm is one of the best there is. With a clear and matte texture, concentrated with beeswax and candelilla wax, the white and gold tube designed by Pierre Hardy is refillable, in keeping with the entire lip product range.

Hermès Beauty, Rouge Hermès Lip Care Balm, £62, net-a-porter.com

Olio E Osso

Olio E Osso’s brand founder Paola LaMorticella concocted the formula for its signature range of balms with one thing in mind: gentle simplicity. The result is a balm stick containing as few natural ingredients as possible, ensuring no irritation to delicate skin. Alongside the clear variation above, there are also tinted versions, providing a dewy flush of colour on cheeks and temples when required.

Olio E Osso No. 1 balm in clear, £27, niche-beauty.com

Tata Harper

All of Tata Harper's products are made on the brand's 1,200-acre organic farm in the Champlain Valley of Vermont. It suggests that this balm, in its signature green packaging, is used as a body mask for 15-20 minutes as part of a pre-bathing ritual. And, when returning home from a day in the bracing cold, what could be more enticing than slathering your skin with the moisturising butters and firming antioxidants contained in this balm, before sinking into a steaming bath?

Tata Harper Redefining Body Balm, £122, net-a-porter.com

Kjaer Weis

The Beautiful Eye Balm by Danish beauty brand Kjaer Weis, made with organic ingredients such as light yam, sweet almond oil and rosehip seed oil, can be used as a nourishing skincare product or as a primer for concealer, too. (All of the Kjaer Weis packaging was designed by Marc Atlan, who has also worked on beauty visuals and products for the likes of YSL, Prada and Comme Des Garçons).

Kjaer Weis The Beautiful Eye Balm, £67, kjaerweis.com

Margate-based brand Haeckels, renowned for its holistic approach to natural beauty and skincare, has released its new Christmas initiative, titled Don't Give Rubbish. The project's messaging explores how the act of gift-giving over the festive period can be simultaneously joyous and responsible, encouraging the consumer to produce less waste in the process.

'This campaign was born from a meeting of several ideas stitched together forming a multi-layered feeling, much like with everything that Haeckels does,' brand founder Dom Bridges tells Wallpaper*. 'Christmas is a time for fun and sharing but we must not forget the all-consuming supermarket giants who are controlling and polluting waste streams. We wanted to create something different to shine a light on the issue while continuing to support the community here in Margate.'

A thoughtful Christmas with Haeckels

Indeed, since its inception in 2012, giving back to the wider Margate community has been an intrinsic value of Haeckels. This includes cleaning the beaches and neighborhoods around its stores (which has, in turn, highlighted the problem of overconsumption that underpins the new campaign). A Christmas tree installation, located in the heart of the Kentish seaside town and constructed from disused shopping trolleys, calls further attention to the issue. As the brand notes: 'For 2023, it is estimated that the UK will use 227,000 miles of wrapping paper, with residents sending around 114,000 tonnes of plastic packaging to landfills instead of being recycled.'

The Christmas gift sets themselves (there are five in total, which contain hero products ranging from the Marine Facial Cleanser and Algae Plump Serum, to items from the Spiraglow and Bladderwack collections) are wrapped in recycled paper and adorned with designs developed from waste materials gathered from Walpole Bay, during one of Haeckels beach clearing sessions. Ten per cent of the gift kit sales will be donated to Margate Independent Food Bank. 'We are hoping to raise awareness on this shared responsibility and ask big corporations to tidy up their commitment to the planet to tackle the issue,' says Haeckels, demonstrating its ongoing dedication to environmental preservation.

Haeckels Christmas 2023 gift kits are available now at haeckels.com

The Women Bauhaus is a new collective of five young female artists who are celebrating and perpetuating the legacy of the women behind the Bauhaus movement. The project has been commissioned by La Prairie as part of its ongoing patronage of the arts (also see its 2021 Niki de Saint Phalle retrospective at MoMA PS1) and will make its debut at Art Basel 2022 this June. 

Under the patronage of Wallpaper* Designer of the Year 2020 Sabine Marcelis, each of the artists has created a work of art that responds to the Bauhaus movement’s 'pursuit of harmony’ in design. 

The artists 

The artists behind The Women Bauhaus are Jasmine Deporta, a recent graduate of ECAL (the college previously collaborated on the La Prairie x ECAL design project); Kristin Chan of Hong Kong Design Institute; Lauren Januhowski of École Nationale des Arts Décoratifs; Talia Golchin of Central Saint Martins; and Gloria Fan Duan from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. 

Each project is distinctly different in its execution but united in its influence by icons such as textile artist Otti Berger, Benita Koch-Otte, and Marianne Brandt – all women Bauhaus artists who, historically, have been relegated to the shadow of their male counterparts. 

For instance, textile artist Lauren Januhowski was inspired by the weaver Gunta Stölzl’s weaving patterns and colours to create a textile paravent using a monotype painting technique. For Out of the Blue, Jasmine Deporta has collaged fragmented images of female bodies together to create a floating, circular sculpture that draws from the Bauhaus in its use of colours and forms. 

Gloria Fan Duan’s work aligns Zen and Bauhaus teachings on harmony for Wishbone, a digital art sculpture in the shape of a knot that symbolises rhythm and universality. Talia Golchin’s work is also a digital sculpture that uses an animation of concentric circles to create an abstract rendering of the female form. Kristin Chan’s work Magnify blends architecture and 3D modelling to create a miniature world that highlights the importance of scale in creating a harmonious spatial sculpture. 

Speaking about The Women Bauhaus, Deporta says, ‘Female collectives are founded on the premise that women can raise each other up in order to reach their potential and circumnavigate insecurities. This collective is a beautiful concept in its equality, solidarity and community.’ 

Golchin echoes the point: ‘From a professional aspect, it is enriching to join forces and work with talented artists with different creative backgrounds. From animation and sculpture to textile and architecture, we have formed a creative power collective. From a personal aspect, I feel that I have been part of an important journey that could potentially influence others.’ 

The product launch 

La Prairie's artistic patronages are always aligned with a new product launch, and this year’s debut is one of its most exciting yet. Skin Caviar Harmony L'Extrait is a new addition to the brand’s iconic Skin Caviar collection. Infused with patented Caviar Infinite, the serum strengthens skin ligaments to prevent facial sagging and smooth deep wrinkles.

INFORMATION

laprairie.com

Electronic musician Kelly Lee Owens and sustainable skincare brand Haeckels has teamed up to create a new candle.

Called Acton’s Lock no.7, the candle marks the first collaboration between Haeckels and Owens, and the first product Haeckels has created outside of its homebase in the seaside town of Margate, UK.

Haeckels was founded in 2012 when volunteer beach warden Dom Bridges started making his own skincare formulations from seaweed that had washed up along the Margate coastline. Eleven years on, the brand has become one the most respected and innovative names in natural skincare, winning a Wallpaper* Design Award for its compostable mycelium packaging and launching the world’s first grown-to-order face masks. 

The brand has also opened up its first London outlet in the city's Hackney neighbourhood, just meters away from the real Acton’s Lock no.7. The area is located along East London’s canal, an urban waterway that snakes through what used to the industrial heart of the city and today is flanked by converted warehouses and the skeletal remains of old gasworks.

It’s also home to some of the city’s most notable electronic music venues, Oval Space and EartH, places Owens used to perform before the coronavirus pandemic forced the closure of all venues, clubs, and skincare store alike.

In an effort to support the hard-hit music industry, Owens and Haeckels have decided to donate 40 per cent of Acton’s Lock no.7’s proceeds to the Music Venue Trust, which is dedicated to rebuilding nightlife after lockdown.

The candle also comes with a scannable QR code which can be used to download soundscapes curated by Owens. The tracks are meant to be listened to while burning the candle, in effect creating a fully-immersive sensory experience to be had at home in the weeks and months before other venues open again. 

As Owens says of the collaboration, ‘[Haeckels] is genuinely my favourite company, whose products I use every day. Everything they do connects back to nature, sustainability and a true passion for the planet and people’s well-being. Innovation and care are at the heart of everything they create. I hope this candle and experience the QR code brings with it, allows you to experience a moment of rest and nourishment.’

INFORMATION
haeckels.com

Haeckels has opened a day spa in Margate, on England's south east coastline. The small-scale ‘natural skincare and wild fragrance’ brand – which collaborated on a diffuser and fragrance oil in our Handmade exhibition in 2017 – is renowned for its masterful material manipulation. If previous small scale projects are anything to go by, Haeckels House is set to be a well-crafted, well-visited retreat.

Housed above its existing store on Cliff Terrace, with stretching ocean views, the boutique treatment areas will offer Haeckels’ unique form of thalassotherapy; curative remedies based on the systematic use of sea water, sea products, and shore climate – making the most of its coastal location.

Alongside the three carefully furnished treatment rooms, Haeckels House is an event space; a base to showcase the work of talented upcoming designers such as Charlotte Kidger and Jo Elbourne, whose work is currently installed in the relaxation area. A pleasing palette – British sky-blue, ocean-spray cream, sandy orange – washes over the walls in waves, neatly sidestepping seaside cliché in favour of something more refined.

A self-evident labour of love, Haeckels House was created with the collaboration of the Haeckels team, their family members and local residents. Margate has a strong community drive, in addition to an influx of London's creative talents migrating there on the hunt for precious extra space and the bracing hit of coastal inspiration, not to mention the significantly lower living costs. With such creative energy arriving in the area by the train-load, it was only a matter of time before quality, design-orientated spaces like this one popped-up across town. Now, locals have a fitting place to unwind.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Haeckels House website

ADDRESS

18 Cliff Terrace
Margate, UK

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For the San Francisco-based, all-natural beauty brand True Botanicals, opening its first physical boutique on home turf was a no brainer.

‘The natural beauty of Northern California has informed my life, especially in creating True Botanicals, so San Francisco was a perfect place open our flagship,’ says the brand’s founder and CEO Hilary Peterson. ‘We want to have a direct relationship with our customers in every way possible. Our online conversations help them find the right routines for their skin. We want to continue that conversation offline, and in addition, offer experiences that you can only get in person.’

Those experiences include a skin clinic comprised of three treatment rooms, where clients can enjoy customised facials, an aromatherapy bar that will help visitors create custom-blends, and an onsite lab that will research and develop the brand’s upcoming products, which will also launch small batch releases that will only be available in the store. Free consultations are also offered to help pair customers with the right products for their lifestyle and needs.

Located opposite San Francisco’s famed Transamerica Pyramid, True Botanicals’ new 1,800 sq ft space has been designed by interior designer Jeremiah Brent. Inspired by the idea of a Californian oasis, Brent has filled the space with raw, tactile materials, weathered furniture and sensual imagery created by the brand’s creative partners, photographers Inez and Vinoodh. From the reclaimed barnwood used to make shelves and storage in the space, to the greenhouse-like glass ceiling and long farmhouse-style console, the rustic, yet elevated touches are a reflection of True Botanicals’ commitment to nature.

‘True Botanicals, for me, is one of those brands that is the future: it’s holistic, it’s nontoxic, it’s rooted in ceremony,’ explains Brent. ‘We wanted something experiential, rather than transactional – to beckon guests to sit down, connect, have a cup of tea, and immerse themselves in the sensorial.’

Peterson adds, ‘We are here to support our customer’s well-being, and want her to leave our store feeling better than when she came in.’

INFORMATION
For more information, visit the True Botanicals website

ADDRESS

522 Washington Street
San Francisco, California
94111, USA

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Strange though it is to compare a face cream to a bunch of buildings, the new skincare line from Aman does it’s best to embody all the sense of place, architecture, nature and wellbeing that the resort chain famously espouses. Aman Formations is launching on the occasion of the resort’s 30th anniversary. Taking no risks on the bottle design they charged Kengo Kuma with shaping containers that would visually make the connection. The resort’s Eastern origins are channelled in the sake bottle silhouettes while stone, representing permanence, and water, representing the flow of time are referenced in the containers’ finish.

‘We wanted to combine a sense of Japanese material tradition with simple modern lines, into a new and timeless combination,’ Kuma explains of the design. ‘The starting point was a conversation between me, Mr. Vladislav Doronin [chairman and CEO of Aman], and our teams. Our aim was to arrive at something elegant and well considered, without anything superfluous. Careful consideration (that is: time well spent) is the hidden aspect of luxury, and we felt that this essence was necessary.’

With Aman's properties the world over, from Bhutan to the Caribbean via Morocco, all ingredients are arguably local. The exotic roll call includes powdered pearl, Palo Santo, cactus oil, algaes, wild-harvested butters and muds from the rainforest, amethyst and jade, copper and silver.

The active aspects of these ingredient gems have been targeted for their ability to restore, transport and transform, the same ambition the various destinations themselves boast. Grounding Amethyst Bath and Shower oil, purifying Active Marine Mask, nourishing Silk Cocoon Face Cream are examples from the three skincare families. They can’t replace a body, heart and soul nourishing trip to Amangiri in the Utah desert, but do go some way to plugging the gap.

A version of this article originally appeared in the July 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*251)

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Aman website

When thinking of rustic English towns, you’ll be hard-pressed not to conjure up images of charming independent shops, quaint tearooms and attractive old-world architecture. Stamford in Lincolnshire certainly ticks the boxes. However, shaking up its high street is RÖ Skin’s new skincare Treatment Rooms.

RÖ Skin has been providing heartfelt, cutting-edge skincare to its clients for almost a decade. The brand’s second outpost – located on the historic St. Mary’s Hill – is a haven of modern wellness, translating its dedication to attentive, personal beauty consultation and therapy, through its minimalist design.

The new space was designed by London-based practice O’Sullivan Skoufoglou Architects, who looked to the layout and design of traditional apothecaries in the space’s conceptualisation. The light-filled entrance, framed by large street-facing windows, leads guests to the cluster of private rooms at the reverse of the space. A soft ambience immerses guests in RÖ Skin’s wellness wonders, perpetuated by a modest palette of birch plywood, linen and painted dado.

An expansive menu features traditional massage, facial and waxing treatments, however the standout services are the more contemporary inclusions. Cutting-edge offerings include the innovative Bioslimming Body Wrap, which firms and sculpts the body, whilst Venus Skin tightening utilises radio frequencies to improve skin elasticity.

Those keen to relieve stress and anxiety can take to holistic therapies, including traditional Japanese reiki healing or reflexology, which targets stress-induced ailments through providing pressure to areas of the feet. 

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the RÖ Skin website

Crisp winds whip down Melbourne’s Bourke Street mall where locals rugged up in their winter armour stop in their tracks to absorb the warm kinetic glow emanating from retailer Myer’s street-level windows. All seven, spanning over 60 m in their entirety, unveil a theatre of the senses as footage of male and female dancers interact rhythmically with tactile hybrid skins and emotive scenography. It marks Aesop’s fifth Myer Bourke Street window display and its first digital collaboration with an artist, Bart Hess, who in the past has worked with a roster of visionaries including Lady Gaga, Nick Knight and Iris van Herpen.

Epistēmē (the Ancient Greek term for knowledge and understanding) serves a dual purpose: to evoke the sensory experience of Aesop’s product offering (including skin, body, hair and personal care, alongside fragrance and ranges for travel and the home) and to distil the notion of absorbing knowledge through the senses, the skin being the interface between the body and the environment it inhabits. ‘I imagined the body as a canvas for the sensations felt and information absorbed. The figures undergo some kind of transformation based on the attributes of the products,’ notes Hess, whose work expresses his ongoing fascination with the human form using instinctive and futuristic textiles. In this case, they include the digitally manipulated material properties of foils, paper, PVC, latex and water colour patterns to create impressions of envelopment and volume.

Each window framing the imagery (ranging from 38 seconds to 3 minute loops) is dedicated to the aforementioned product categories against a backdrop of melodic futuristic soundscapes created by Ricky van Broekhoven that ripple with recordings of the materials used. ‘The films talk to the qualities of our products and the transformations which occur as they nourish both the physical and sensual being,’ clarifies Aesop’s creative director, Marsha Meredith.

The sequence commences with skin care. Folded and concertinaed golden translucent veils morph over the upper body. ‘Visually, it talks to intense vitamins nourishing your skin and the ritual of daily skin care routines,’ adds Marsh. The home (room sprays) window is fluidly expressed with women unfurling swathes of cape-like aromas that billow around the body like puffs of smoke. Representing fragrance, splintered paper-thin feathers taking their inspirational cue from origami adorn the limbs of figures like a Boccioni sculpture in motion to represent the crispness of the Tacit aroma. A woman magically floats in the travel window suggestive of Aesop’s approach to nurturing the skin and senses during journeys. ‘Satin-like ribbons support her body playing with the idea of material time,’ offers Hess.

Presented on variously sized grids, each sequence is uniquely self-contained, yet together with their heightened colour palettes (alluding to Aesop ingredients) and cinematic expression, they possess the mesmerising effect of drawing viewers in to experience the tactile sensations themselves. ‘As they’re deeply set from the street, the challenge was to communicate from a depth,’ adds Hess. Mechanical precision (so refined and precise) and organic fluidity co-exist harmoniously to portray liberated states and the confidence each product offering instills.

The windows at Myer Bourke Street will remain in motion until 29 July, whilst film stills will also be presented in the windows of Myer Queen Street in Brisbane and Myer George Street in Sydney during this time.

INFORMATION

Until 29 July. For more information, visit the Aesop website

ADDRESS

Myer Melbourne
314-336 Bourke Street, Melbourne 300

Myer Sydney
436 George Street, Sydney 2000

Myer Brisbane
91 Queen Street, Brisbane 4000

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In Saint-Gilles, a residential corner of Brussels, Ananda Escriva and Franck Laÿs have been quietly laboring over Récolte (French for ‘harvest’), an organic and co-operative skincare brand three years in the making.

Between them, the couple has professional experience in engineering, art and medicine, which is reflected in the meticulousness of the brand’s identity. The packaging of Récolte is fuss-free and simple, yet radiates a sense of nostalgia. Created by the Parisian designer Jean-Philippe Bretin, it makes use of a single colour, a single typeface and a few typographical composition rules.

‘Everything we do, we try to do with as little detailing as possible’, say Escriva and Laÿs. The zesty greenish yellow packaging, printed with a 1980s Letraset version of the 19th century Blackfriars font, is testimony to that way of thinking.

The same simplicity is applied to the balms and oils inside Récolte’s fresh-hued tubes and bottles. For their high-quality unisex organic skincare products, Escriva and Laÿs had one core question in mind: can we do things differently? ‘We are not the owners of Récolte, it's owned by the community’, they explain.

This democratic decision-making process and logistic control results in a high-level of transparency: Escriva and Laÿs know where the raw materials come from and how they are produced, source them in a sustainable and local manner, and work with small-scale organic farmers in Europe.

‘We create products from where we stand; using what’s there’, they say. ‘Using only European raw materials means higher prices, much more complex sourcing and less possibilities, but it pushes us to be more creative.’

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Récolte website

At the core of new beauty brand (M)anasi7, is its ‘declaration of seven’ – a manifesto that outlines its principles of beautiful, sustainable cosmetics: ‘Slow, Select, Pure, Natural, Simple, Symbiotic, Contemporary’.

More than a marketing ploy, this is a mantra. Focusing on what goes inside the bottle, the Stockholm-based company only uses raw, carefully selected, pure organic ingredients that are ethically and sustainable harvested. The result? A high quality product, carefully developed to nourish and protect all skin types.

Founder Susanne Manasi Persson is a make-up artist and cosmetics developer who has always wanted to work on a more inclusive make-up range. Her Indian heritage meant that she ‘never had the choice of more than three or four shades’, she explains. The solution was simple, and after years in development, (M)anasi7 came up with just four ‘skin enhancers’ that range from very light to dark shades and can be mixed upon application to match your own skin tone exactly, leaving room for slight deviations in tone over the seasons. The range also includes a variety of all-over colours, powders and blushes, each as versatile as the last.

Person’s partner – art director and graphic designer Olof Lindqvist – curated (M)anasi7 more like an art project than a conventional beauty brand. He collaborated with photographer Emil Larsson (who has an impressive portfolio with brands like Chanel, Dior and Cartier) for still life shots of humble raw ingredients. He treated each as if it were the brand’s main protagonist, bringing out all the beauty of a weathered single apricot leaf, or a simple castor seed – just as (M)anasi7 aims to bring out inner beauty from its users, irrespective of skin colour, gender or age.

For the obligatory cosmetics brand model photographs, (M)anasi7 sought the help of artist/photographer Jenny Källman, who created a space of faded and unrefined ambiguity with her models, who are revealed through shadows and blurred outlines.

From the branding to the ingredients, (M)anasi7’s principle of seven sings through, with the addition of attention to detail, all inclusivity, and serious style.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the (M)anasi7 website

If wellbeing came in a bottle, what would it look like? Probably a lot like La Eva, the new organic soap and lotion line by former psychologist Louisa Canham. With La Eva, Canham has melded her skincare with a holistic philosophy, creating a product that is a perfect blend of the soapmaking and medical practices.

Her work in skincare began as a way to relieve the pressures of her job as child psychologist, which often required her to deal first hand with young refugees, criminal offenders, and sufferers of mental illness. Exhausted by this demanding position, Canham transformed soapmaking into a therapeutic exercise that allowed her to achieve the contentment she provided to others.

All La Eva products are certified organic and vegan

In 2014, Canham devoted herself entirely to starting her own soap brand and now, three years later, has developed La Eva. It has a dual meaning, laeva meaning ‘left of centre’ in Latin and Eva meaning ‘life, living one, mother of life’. Both epitomise the meaning of the brand, which is, in the words of its creator, 'about being surprised by life and nature, their chemistry, and their potential. It’s about simplicity, complexity, and the choices that we make — which, sometimes, happen to be left of centre.'

The line launches this month carrying one of two scents – ‘Blu,’ a sharper, masculine scent, and ‘Roseum’, a delicate, sensual fragrance. They fragrance washes and lotions that can be used with equal effectiveness on the face and body. Packaged in brown bottles reminiscent of apothecary potions and decorated with dreamy paintings by Rosie-Marie Caldecott, La Eva is sure to sooth even the weariest among us.

INFORMATION
For more information, visit the La Eva website

With its elegant good looks and health-conscious ethos, True Botanicals could easily be lumped together with many other natural skincare brands that stand in the luxury market today. Beneath its stylish veneer though, are formulas that actually work, having been developed by founder Hilary Peterson after her own experience with surviving thyroid cancer and melanoma.

An activist of product safety, Peterson and True Botanicals' approach is focused on conscious ingredient sourcing and identifying potentially toxic ingredients present in everyday products. Based in Mill Valley, California, True Botanicals products are super concentrated, feature bio-active formulations and are luxurious to use – a triple threat, if we ever saw one. They deliver efficacious results too, without compromising on health.

True Botanicals releases three new collections this month: Renew, which hydrates and nourishes ageing skin; Clear, which targets breakouts and controls bacterial flare-ups while offering anti-ageing benefits; and Calm, which soothes irritated and inflamed skin suffering from conditions such as rosacea, over sensitivity and excessive sun exposure. Comprised of a hydrating cleanser, nutrient mist, face oil and nourishing serum, each collection features a custom cocktail of plant and fruit oils, natural extracts and anti-oxidants to ensure it does the job.

What's more, True Botanicals completes its offering with an equally nutritious shampoo and conditioner, that’s formulated without SLS surfactants or synthetic fragrances. Ideal for all hair types, the green tea oil and coconut oil infused pair produce cleaner and healthier hair without a second guess in sight.

INFORMATION

For more details, please visit True Botanicals’ website

It goes without saying that each of us has a favourite skin product, moisturiser or body wash – and enjoy its ritual every other Sunday in a relaxing bath with a good old book (right?). Launching September 2016, Novel Skincare introduces a new collection of products that harnesses just that sentiment. The brand attempts to go deeper than the skin's surface, touching the soul via natural products housed in beautifully crafted tactile books.

The creams, soaps and scrubs are all made from high quality oils and therapeutic plant extracts – with natural antioxidants and moisturising qualities – but what makes this collection unique are the books. Designed around a specific atmosphere and narrative, they're filled with carefully selected body care products. Founder Nneka Fleming says: 'We are interested in the ways personal care affects us all. From the role it plays in how we start our day and the way we feel about ourselves to the effect it has on our skin and the environment. We want to be part of a culture that thinks about the ordinary differently.'

The experience begins with the books' titles – from Poor Man’s Rose and Travel Stories, to the intriguing Autobiography. Poor Man’s Rose includes chapters such as 'Stream of Consciousness' – manifested as a raw sugar scrub for ‘the one thousand and one thoughts of the daily mind’ with a sensuously aromatic blend – and 'Platonic Dialogue' – a light day cream that insists you ‘find yourself through your own reasoning’ thanks to an abundance of vitamins, aloe vera, seaweed, sesame, apricot and geranium rose oil.

INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Novel Skincare website

Image courtesy Novel Beauty Skincare

Organic and natural skincare can often get a bad rap, be it for less than efficacious formulations just for the sake of staying natural, or coming in earthy, homespun packaging that sorely misses the mark. Thankfully, Root Science, a newly launched, all-natural skincare brand out of northern California, easily evades both.

For founder Gígja Hlín Wesneski, creating the line has been the culmination of a life-long obsession to treat her own and her sister’s irritable skin. Acne, rosacea and extreme sensitivity were not only some of the conditions Hlín tried to combat, but also visible scarring in between periods of calm skin. After experimenting with different combinations of over-the-counter products and prescription medications, Hlín became fixed on finding nourishing, natural ingredients that would do the job.

Inspired by medicinal plants and traditional remedies from her home country of Iceland, Wesneski has packed each Root Science product with luxurious botanicals. Made in micro-batches and armed with a Californian craft sensibility, Root Science’s indulgent range truly yields results. The range includes a quartet of face serums (anti-inflammatory, balancing, anti-aging, hydrating), which each feature a blend of rich natural oils, an eye serum, an exfoliant made from rice flour, healing herbs and detoxifying clay; two powdered clay masks that bring herbs and vitamin-rich ingredients to cleanse and restore skin’s elasticity; and a buttery cleansing bar comprised of olive oil, shea butter and calendula flower to clean and calm skin at the same time.

All enclosed in elegant, violet glass bottles, which help to maintain freshness and potency, Root Science’s packaging truly does its contents justice. Even the boxes are printed with an abstracted mountain landscape, in tribute to its geographical roots. 

INFORMATION

Products range from $20–$120. For more information, visit the Root Science website

All too often beauty and grooming products – particularly for men – fall into a gimmicky abyss of overpowering scents and stereotypical formulas. Enter SA.AL&CO, a new skincare company from Vienna catering for the style conscious and environmentally savvy man.

Produced in the Austrian Alps using only natural ingredients, they like to keep things simple. They make five basic, fuss-free products and leave the rest aside; hair and body wash, shaving cream, aftershave balm, dry skin moisturiser, and deodorant form the tenants of their modest output.

The use of essential oils means products all have a similar scent, a fresh and subtle fragrance, more byproduct of organic ingredients rather than a deliberate attempt to flourish.

Sustainability is at the heart of the company, not just with the ingredients they used (all conveniently procured from their local region – an alpine setting has never been so beneficial) but also in their packaging. The brushed aluminum containers are as stylish as they are recyclable.

The uniform packaging design can be transformed into a personalised experience too. The labels are hand-inscribed, indicating both the batch and bottle number as well as the user’s name; a dedication, if it’s a gift; or any desired phrase for that matter. The choice is yours, but we’ll leave the goods up to SA.AL&CO.

INFORMATION

For prices and more information visit the SA.AL&CO website 

Photography: Courtesy of SA.AL&CO