This summer, the runway leads to the Riviera. Primarily across Europe, luxury hotels are quietly slipping into their seasonal roles as extensions of major fashion and lifestyle brands. Behemoths such as Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana are migrating from urban fashion capitals to the coast in the coming months, trading marble flagships for fresh ocean air and beachfront real estate. The formula is straightforward: exclusive pop-up boutiques flanked by monogrammed loungers and umbrellas, and occasionally, chef-led restaurants. Here are some of the hotel takeovers making a splash this summer – where you too can pop up in style.

Fashion hotel takeovers happening this summer

Burberry at The Standard Ibiza

Hot on the heels of its takeover at The Newt in Somerset, Burberry is off to embrace the Mediterranean sunshine, landing at The Standard, Ibiza, until October. The hotel’s seasonal rooftop bar and restaurant, Up, has been Burberry-ified with a bespoke check pattern in bright yellow. This energising design adorns the site’s loungers, parasols, and seating, as well as a photo booth in the lobby. Starting in mid-July, weekly DJ nights, featuring guests such as Phil Mison, Eric Duncan, and Nicolas Matar, will be accompanied by a curated cocktail menu. For those who can’t get enough of the partnership, Burberry and The Standard also propose a summer capsule collection ‘for warm days and balmy nights’, with swimwear, sunglasses, and hats available for purchase.

The Standard, Ibiza is located at Carrer de Bartomeu Vicent Ramon, 9, 07800 Ibiza, Balearic Islands, Spain.

Dior at Jumeirah Capri Palace

For the fifth time, Jumeirah Capri Palace, which recently unveiled new suites by Patricia Urquiola, welcomes the return of Dioriviera to its seafood restaurant, Il Riccio. The breezy setting, surrounded by Anacapri’s rocky cliffs and adjacent to the island’s magical Blue Grotto, is now decorated with Dior’s Toile de Jouy pattern and animal statues. Guests can choose to sip limoncello spritzes on the beach club terrace or dine at the restaurant, on dishes such as spaghettino with sea urchins. Meanwhile, a Dior boutique pop-up features a summer-ready wardrobe.

Il Riccio is located at Via Gradola, 4, 80071 Anacapri, Italy.

Dolce & Gabbana at Four Seasons Hotel Taormina

Despite occupying its privileged hilltop position for centuries, San Domenico Palace, Taormina, entered the modern zeitgeist in 2022 after serving as the fictional ‘The White Lotus’ hotel. The property, which was acquired by Four Seasons in 2020, is also a beloved part of the Dolce & Gabbana universe, as the Italian brand has taken over its pool area for a couple of years in a row. The now familiar bespoke Blu Mediterraneo theme, seen across parasols, cushions and towels, seeks to reflect the region’s vibrant seaside blues and celebrates the artistry of handmade Sicilian ceramics. Wallpaper’s fashion features editor Jack Moss visited the activation last month to celebrate Dolce & Gabbana’s ninth collaboration with Mytheresa, describing the experience as ‘a day of sunshine, food and spritzes’. Until the end of the season, guests will also be able to browse an exclusive pop-up boutique offering a selection of clothing and accessories, including some location exclusives.

San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel is located at Via S. Domenico, 5, 98039 Taormina, Italy.

Herno at Phi Beach

The rugged granite landscape of Baja Sardinia provides the perfect backdrop for Herno’s sophisticated take on exploration, travel, and outdoor living. In collaboration with Phi Beach, the Italian brand is showcasing its vision of seaside leisure for the second consecutive summer, lasting through the first week of September. Alongside dressing the exclusive club’s cabanas and deckchairs in sandy, deep brown tones, Herno has also introduced its first fully designed restaurant, Herno Suite. Here, chef Claudio Marenzi presents culinary delights on ceramics inspired by the Erno River, paying tribute to the brand’s roots. With a focus on natural aesthetics and sustainability, bill holders, menus, and coasters are made from natural cork sourced from Sardinia. A selection of ‘open-air accessories’ is available for purchase, including beach towels, tote bags, water bottles, baskets, and hats.

Phi Beach is located at Via Forte Cappellini, 07021 Arzachena, Italy.

Jacquemus at Monte-Carlo Beach Club

As part of a strategic transformation of the area, Monte-Carlo’s emblematic beach club has reopened for the season with a complete redesign of its deck and pool area by French interior designer Dorothée Delaye. Adding a burst of Provençal panache, a sun-kissed collaboration with Jacquemus is underway until 7 October. Inspired by ‘La Croisière’ collection unveiled in Paris in January, the takeover dresses sunbeds, towels, and parasols in banana-yellow, coconut milk, and black stripes. This theme extends to the adjacent Pool Café, which features speciality brews and an Olympic-sized pool, as well as two newly opened Jacquemus boutiques, featuring sketches by Renoir and Matisse on their walls.

Monte-Carlo Beach Club is located at Av. Princesse Grâce, 98000 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, Monaco.

Louis Vuitton at White 1921 Hotel

For the third consecutive year, the Arnaud Donckele & Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton restaurant has returned to the White 1921 Saint-Tropez hotel for the season. Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donckele and chef pâtissier Maxime Frédéric present a bountiful menu, available for lunch, tea time, and dinner, spotlighting local, seasonal produce and creative twists. Think dishes such as grilled blue lobster enriched by a shiso-infused sauce, or Wagyu beef served in a fragrant bouillon. The restaurant’s interior features natural macramé touches paired with rattan furnishings and tables dressed in seasonal Louis Vuitton tableware. Crockery is adorned with interpretations of the maison’s signature Monogram Flower.

The Arnaud Donckele & Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton restaurant is located at Hotel White 1921, Trav. des Lices, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France.

Missoni at JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa

Nothing embodies summer quite like Missoni’s signature zig-zag motif, a warm-weather staple cherished by many for its cheerful, multicoloured hues and light texture. On the private Isola delle Rose in Venice, the Italian label has established a bijou pop-up store at the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa, making it convenient for guests to stock up on its beachwear essentials. A serene blend of blue and azure, combined with warm ochres and beige, dominates an exclusive collection of men’s and womenswear, ranging from swim trunks and bowling shirts to bikinis and long cover-ups. This same pattern features in the shop’s sofas and pouffes, as well as the large-scale bunny welcoming visitors. The pop-up is open at JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa until 15 September, with another Missoni Resort Club takeover occurring in Oku Ibiza in the form of a branded poolside lounge.

JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa is located at Isola delle Rose, Laguna Di San Marco, 30133 Venice, Italy.

Alo at Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum

Turkey is familiar territory for Alo Yoga, which launched its first Istanbul brick-and-mortar store last year. This summer, the lifestyle brand has set its sights on the Aegean coast – in particular, Mandarin Oriental Bodrum’s private shoreline, to debut a second boutique, an immersive beach club experience, and wellness workshops. Complementing the oak and pine beach umbrellas are branded cotton towels and seating in an earthy hue, while a customised cart offers refreshments served in coconut cups. Until September, international Alo instructors will lead a wellness programme for hotel guests, including sunrise yoga and pilates alongside sound healing and meditation sessions.

Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum is located at Gölköy, 314 Sokak No.10, 48483 Muğla, Turkey.

In 1967, Rosita Missoni caused a sensation at Pitti Palace in Florence. Backstage, moments before showing her new collection, she told the models to remove their bras, thinking they looked awkward beneath ethereal, flowing lamé blouses she had designed that season. Under the bright runway lights, little was left to the imagination – scandalous in the day – and Missoni wasn’t invited back to Pitti the following year. Tipping the Milanese label into an era of global influence, the moment wasn’t a disaster – by the end of 1967, the brand had established a presence in Paris, and by 1968, a slew of magazine covers in America. The mishap, accidental as it was, unwittingly unleashed the sensual and free-spirited Missoni identity as we know it today.

No one is better versed, perhaps besides the Missoni family, in the tales of the house as Alberto Caliri. Unveiled today at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2025, his confident return as creative director is the product of 30 years spent working in-studio at the brand, which he first joined in 1998 just after Angela Missoni took the reins from her parents. Moving up through the ranks and hopping from menswear, to beachwear, to ready-to-wear, until he was appointed chief designer in 2021, he comes back into the big seat from his previous role heading up Missoni’s home department. It’s a move the brand hopes will unify Missoni’s sunny, zig-zagged legacy into one cohesive whole.

Missoni A/W 2025: ‘A deep exploration of texture and materiality’

‘The thing I liked the most when I first arrived was the extraordinary atmosphere,’ he tells Wallpaper*. ‘It felt like a family and it was a pleasure to be there. At the same time, I could see the opportunity to do a million things. It was clear from the very beginning that this was not a place where one could get bored.’

His A/W 2025 collection was about getting ‘back to an essence’. A love letter to knitwear, Missoni’s signature material, ran through a layering of intricately textured polos, folksy jumpers, and modish plaid mini dresses cropped beneath hulking outdoorsy jackets. Paying special attention to form and materiality, Caliri’s garments enveloped models in weighty parkas, structured glittering suits, and fluid buttonless blazers that took on masculine tailoring with intuitive ease. ‘The idea was to recover what we felt most connected to, exploring the very roots of the brand’s style and spirit,’ he says. ‘A new, contemporary silhouette, a deep exploration of texture and materiality, and a strong focus on colour.’

Unravelling Missoni’s rainbow-threaded history, Caliri’s palette presented an autumnal paring-back of the house’s signature stripes in mellow creams, deep bronzes, navy blues, blacks, and burnt yellow. Glints of metallic flickered like light on water, winking at the disco era Missoni personified in the 1970s without lingering too long in the past. Instead, Caliri was thinking about how the Missoni woman of 2025 might live in these clothes; moving from day to night, ‘his jumper becoming hers in the evening’.

Seen all together, the result was a wardrobe that felt foundational yet new, presenting the act of dressing as a natural impulse rather than a performance. ‘The Missoni woman is a woman with a sense of humour, someone who doesn’t take herself too seriously,’ Caliri explains. ‘A charge of femininity blended with masculine elements. Looking at the founders, I have always perceived a sort of overlap of different spirits.’

While the collection displayed a deep respect for these strong women and a canonical knowledge of Missoni’s archives, Caliri was careful to keep a dialogue with the present moment. ‘The feeling was not one of radical change, but rather of return,’ he explains. ‘Missoni is one of those brands that does not need major revolutions. The real challenge was precisely this: not to deny the past but to make it as contemporary as possible. It is about continuing to breathe life into this spirit, not disrupting it, but allowing it to evolve constantly, exploring new facets without ever breaking continuity.’

There’s something refreshing about this anti-revolutionary approach, especially at a moment when designers spend increasingly shorter spells at brands, often brought on by leadership in the hopes that radical change equals increased revenue. Caliri’s three-decade stewardship at Missoni makes a case for staying put, for preserving legacy and respectfully adding to the tapestry that has stretched before him.

‘What excites me the most is the opportunity to work across multiple aspects of the brand, exploring its many creative dimensions,’ he says, looking to the future. ‘The idea is to create a world that belongs to us – from interior design to fashion, even real estate. The aim is to shape a more complex and articulated brand image, as if each of these facets were musical notes – the more you add, the greater the composition.’

missoni.com

With barely a moment for the dust to settle on fashion month – which ended this past Tuesday in Paris – this week has proved one of industry shake-up, as the game of designer musical chairs continues. Yesterday was the announcement that Hedi Slimane was to leave Celine, replaced by Polo Ralph Lauren’s Michael Rider, while this morning news comes from Milan that Filippo Grazioli is exiting Missoni, succeeded by a veteran of the Italian brand, Alberto Caliri.

Grazioli’s tenure has been short, having joined Missoni in 2022. His collections brought a youthful spirit to the 1953-founded label, often defined by a bold use of colour and sinuous, body-bearing silhouettes. He held what would be his final show as part of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025 last month, an experimental outing inspired by ‘the energy of chaos through the endless dance of colours and shapes’ and the modernist wire sculptures of American artist Ruth Asawa.

‘It has been an honour and a privilege to be part of Missoni. I am proud of the achievements and the experiences shared with the entire team. I am now ready to face new challenges and explore new frontiers,’ Grazioli said in a statement.

Filippo Grazioli to exit Missoni, succeeded by Alberto Caliri

Caliri first joined the brand in 1998, working closely with Angela Missoni on the house’s runway collections. He would take over as interim designer after her exit in 2021, showing two collections before shifting over to the homeware side of the brand, supervised by Missoni co-founder Rosita Missoni. The brand hopes that his appointment will bring more cohesion to the label, uniting the men’s, women’s and home collections under a singular vision.

Deeply embedded in the label, it will likely shift a move towards a more traditional vision of Missoni, one rooted in its founding principles of craft and colour, as well as focussing on the house’s recognisable motifs, like the zig-zag or stripe. He will show his first collection as part of the pre-fall season, with a first runway show expected next year.

Though there were rumours of Grazioli’s exit, Missoni was not one of the fashion houses that eyes have been on this week: an announcement from Chanel about its latest creative director is still awaited, while Dries Van Noten is also without creative leadership after the exit of the eponymous designer earlier this year. Whether they will add to an already busy week of fashion news – or whether there will be more surprises in store – remains to be seen.

missoni.com

As seen in the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper* – a reflection on a season defined by tactility, texture and touch – 12 of A/W 2024’s defining men’s and womenswear moments, from scrunched-up Miu Miu gloves and decadent Ferragamo feathers to seductive leather ties and cocooning balaclavas.

Soft touch (top left)

Enveloping textures, the pleasure of clothing on the skin: this season is all about tactility. Cue a melange of furry, fuzzy, soft-to-the-touch textures – whether the teddy-bear feel of a Dries Van Noten bag or the fluffy finish of a Carven skirt.

Match point (top right)

This season saw designers explore the co-ordinating accessory, albeit in an unexpected manner – at Gucci, the tone of a leather glove met that of a handbag, part of Sabato De Sarno’s ongoing investigation of colour and texture.

Parallel lines

The stripe is one of Missoni’s enduring motifs, often appearing in vivid colour combinations. Designer Filippo Grazioli paid homage to the pattern in playful style, like with these shaggy knit stripes, which adorn an elongated overcoat.

Glossed over

Slick, high-shine textures lent this season’s menswear a futuristic sheen. At Jil Sander, lustrous crackled-leather overcoats appeared as part of a collection that designers Lucie and Luke Meier described as an ‘immersive capsule, smooth and embracing’.

Back out

At Prada’s womenswear show, the backs of tailored jackets were sliced away, as if to expose their lining, appearing as part of a collection that saw co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons excavate historical silhouettes.

Hands on

At Miu Miu’s show, rolled-up sleeves and heavy, worn-leather gloves suggested a woman at work. Indeed, gloves – largely oversized and scrunched up – appeared throughout the collections, with iterations at The Row, Marni and Balenciaga.

Tied up

The tie was reimagined by a gamut of designers. At Prada, it formed part of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ riff on the corporate uniform, while at Bottega Veneta, ties were cut from leather in Matthieu Blazy’s typically seductive style.

Fine feather

A fascination with old Hollywood glamour permeated Maximilian Davis’ collections for Ferragamo. Flourishes of feathers sprouted from necklines or heeled pumps – an ode, said Davis, to the liberatory dress codes of the 1920s.

Slim chance

Menswear designers provided a long and lean riposte to the oversized silhouette that has dominated recent seasons. Silvia Venturini Fendi was one such voice, presenting slim, straight-cut tailoring, inspired by the contrast between ‘town and country’.

Hood times

The idea of protection featured prominently, with designers creating silhouettes that wrapped and enveloped. At Issey Miyake, balaclavas appeared as part of a collection that saw Satoshi Kondo explore the instinctual ‘act of clothing the human body’.

Second skin

This season’s slick boots offer up a glamorous way of protecting the body as the temperature drops. Such is the case with this pair by Daniel Lee, whose latest collection for Burberry is inspired by the ‘heritage of the British outdoors’.

Buckle up

A defined waistline added a nostalgic elegance to the season’s menswear silhouette, whether in nipped-waist tailoring, tie-fastening overcoats or eye-catching belts, like those at Prada, which were perhaps A/W 2024’s most covetable accessory.

Models: Jimai Hoth at PRM Agency, Mohammed Banze at Wilhelmina. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: Kei Yoshino at Bryant Artists. Hair: Mayuko Nakae using Oribe. Make-up: Sunao Takahashi at Saint Luke using Chanel Fall-Winter 2024 Make-up Collection and No.1 de Chanel Skincare. Manicure: Sabina Uzunovic at Snow Creatives using Kure Bazaar. Photography assistants: Callum Su, Joshua Hippolyte.

This article appears in the September 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today

In 2023, we saw Missoni transform the One&Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives with its signature stripes and patterns in cool shades of blue. For summer 2024, the Italian luxury fashion house has embraced a change of scenery by beginning a partnership with Delta, the American airline.

A Missoni flight of fancy for Delta One

As part of the special project, Missoni has personalised the new Delta One Lounge at New York’s JFK International Airport and customised the Delta One amenity kits. Both feature the label’s vibrant colours and patterns, elevating the travel experience with warmth and playfulness. Now open, the Missoni x Delta One Lounge offers a restful space, featuring a selection from Missoni’s home collection. The brand has also adorned the Fireplays Lounge and the Scented Arbor terrace with customised cushions, books and vases.

The co-branded amenity kits, currently offered on all Delta flights to and from Italy and Paris with plans for a global rollout in September 2024, showcase Missoni’s distinctive textured zigzag design on the outside and a custom pattern and colour scheme that celebrates Delta’s almost 100-year aviation legacy on the inside.

Delta One is the most exclusive experience offered by the airline, and during fly-time includes premium amenities such as plush bedding, more beverage options, a seasonal onboard menu – and now, a touch of Missoni.

‘We’ve been intentional about creating a Delta One experience that feels truly premium,’ says Mauricio Parise, vice president of Brand Experience Design at Delta. ‘The Missoni-designed amenity kits, along with unique design elements that will be featured in our Delta One Lounge at JFK, offer a distinct, high-end enhancement to our most premium spaces.’

delta.com, missoni.com

The French designer Marine Serre, one of the guest designers of this season’s Florence menswear fair, Pitti Uomo 106, selected the 15th-century Villa di Maiano – located in the rolling hills just outside of the city – to present her S/S 2025 collection, which featured her most comprehensive menswear offering yet. Presented in the gilded light of the early evening, it was easy to see why designers like Serre have long chosen to show at Pitti Uomo, despite the relative upheaval of transporting a collection across borders. Here was a setting just about as cinematic as it gets, seeing models weave their way through the Edenic gardens towards the hedge mazes below, all the while the spires and domes of Florence providing a distant backdrop in the fading evening light. Afterwards, guests mingled on the lawns for aperitivo, with more than one noting their desire to uproot themselves to the Tuscan countryside.

Pitti Uomo 106: the highlights

Serre said that the collection was inspired by the glamour of Italian cinema, most astutely captured in the womenswear collection, a dramatic stream of confection-like gowns which came complete with the Italian tropes of headscarves, lace and veils. They marked a move onwards from the slick, crescent-moon second-skin pieces for which Serre has become known, and will likely please her celebrity fanbase. Other gowns, constructed from collaged hiking and tennis bags, recalled her earlier work with pieced-together, upcycled garments. It was clear that the setting had proved creatively inspirational for Serre, who seemed to find new freedoms away from Paris. A final white dress, emblazoned with the flags of Congo, Palestine, and Sudan, recalled her early slogan ‘A Radical Call for Love’. ‘The collection symbolises a call for peace,’ she said, noting that her models hailed from 25 different countries around the world.

At another villa earlier in the week – the 19th-century Villa Favard, created by Giuseppe Poggi – Paul Smith, the season’s other guest designer, revelled not in the grand or cinematic, but instead in the intimacy that Pitti Uomo affords (unlike Milan and Paris, a scant schedule of shows means more time for absorbing a designer’s collection). In one of the villa’s gilded salons, guests sat on stools as Smith talked through his latest collection’s various looks. ‘I think the world’s gone a bit mad with these shows everywhere around the world,’ he said, presiding over a room of gathered guests and press. ’I just think it’s so lacking in personality. So I thought, why don’t I just talk to everyone and show the collection?’ It was an astute way of showing the Paul Smith S/S 2025 offering, inspired by Soho’s Italian coffee bars and their artistic patrons, placing the ever-charismatic Smith front and centre.

Earlier that evening, fellow British designer Margaret Howell hosted an equally intimate drinks reception at her Florence store, marking ten years of the unique location, which is just steps from the River Arno. An accompanying photographic exhibition saw classic Margaret Howell pieces blown up on posters around the store, each chosen for its links to Italian manufacturing, which Howell said she wanted to highlight (Italy accounts for nearly half of the raw materials the brand uses, and 32 per cent of clothing and accessories production). ‘I have always chosen to work with specialist manufacturers and weavers [and] Italy has an innate understanding of make and quality that is unique to our industry,’ she said. ‘Opening a production office and shop in Florence has enabled us to build stronger relationships and to showcase their craft.’ In a show of support between two stalwarts of British fashion, Howell joined Smith’s apertivo hour at the specially constructed ‘Bar Paul’ at Villa Favard, just a short walk away.

At the historic Fortezza da Basso, where the main menswear fair takes place each season, Herno provided a showcase of its own distinct brand of Italian craft (founded in Piedmont, northern Italy, it began with the construction of coated cotton raincoats and has been an expert in fabric construction since). Transforming its longstanding pavilion at the fair into a stripped-back space divided by enormous video screens, the brand’s showcase of its collection illustrated the latest step in its evolution from outerwear expert to a comprehensive fashion label that caters to the various needs of a man’s wardrobe. Which is why, despite it being a S/S 2025 collection, the pieces came in a variety of weights – from high-summer seersucker sets, tennis wear and swimming shorts (a new addition to the brand’s roster) to warmer down pieces and an array of knitwear – which Herno said was purposely ‘transseasonal’, an astute pitch for the international, country-hopping consumer.

An equally comprehensive offering came from Missoni, which made its debut this season at the menswear fair, having previously shown at the brand’s Brera HQ in Milan during the city’s fashion week. Presented in the cool, salon-like interiors of the Construzione Lorenesei – a more sedate enclave than the busy, modern main pavilion – it was described as a collection which ‘moves across occasions and situations’. An array of slouchy knit cardigans, some adorned with the classic zig-zag Missoni motif, were at the collection’s centre, equally imaginable worn with the collection’s colourful swim shorts and sandals on a summer’s evening or as an enveloping wintertime layer. A demonstration of craft came in the cobalt-blue crystal coatings on garments, recalling the shimmer of ocean waters, while intricate knit jackets – some panelled with narrow lines of leather – were constructed on traditional artisanal looms.

At Brunello Cucinelli, there was a satisfying injection of colour this season, notably in vibrant shades of peach which added new interest to the designer’s classic silhouettes. This feeling of lightness ran through the collection, which featured roomy, technical jackets (Cucinelli said the silhouette was inspired by 1980s cuts), airy knit polos and pleated white pants, alongside capsule collections inspired by tennis and golf. Tailoring, meanwhile, was cut with a narrower line, while accessories spanned Western-inspired belts, leather-trimmed espadrilles and woven-knit ties. The collection was celebrated with a dinner at Serre Torrigiani on Pitti Uomo’s opening night, seeing guests – including the actor Jeff Goldblum and his wife Emilie Livingston – spill out onto the restaurant’s terraced Italian gardens, first constructed in the 16th century and here lined with candlelit dining tables. Deemed Florence’s secret ‘oasis’, it was yet another of the uniquely cinematic settings that continue to give Pitti Uomo its distinct allure.

uomo.pittimmagine.com

Svenskt Tenn have unveiled a summer takeover of their Stockholm Gallery, handing over the space to Margherita Maccapani Missoni who created a colourful summer pop up. 'A postcard from Italy' (on view until 27 August 2023) is an imaginary garden within the gallery, where a series of picnic settings mix Missoni's 'italianness' and Josef Frank's classics. 

'I've been an avid Svenskt Tenn customer for a long time and enjoy decorating my home with Josef Frank's furniture and patterns,' says Maccapani Missoni. 'My aim is to create a lesser seen version of the Svenskt Tenn universe, by incorporating the characteristic Italian philosophy of being outside in conviviality.

'A postcard from Italy' at Svenskt Tenn

The shoppable exhibition features a series of informal table settings referencing the picnic theme with combinations of iconic Josef Frank patterns including Italian Dinner, Catleya, Stripes, Posions, and Vegetable Tree across table linen, upholstered furniture, and parasols (which have been custom-made for the occasion).

Maccapani Missoni has also collaborated with the Swedish brand on a series of special edition products featuring Josef Frank motifs such as heart-shaped pillows, postcard-like trays and wallpaper as well as porcelain pieces made in Italy for Svenskt Tenn. A further curated selection of objects and tableware from small Italian artisans was put together by Maccapani Missoni as part of the installation, and will be available from the gallery. 

'I've found many affinities with Svenskt Tenn founder Estrid Ericson,' says Maccapani Missoni, whose exhibition is a tribute to the woman behind the brand and her creativity. 'To me, she was an avantgarde woman and inspiring entrepreneur who early on thought outside the box and did things in her own way, with high integrity.'

Postcard from Italy is on view until 27 August 2023

Svenskt Tenn
Strandvägen 5
Stockholm

svenskttenn.com

Missoni’s venture with luxury Maldives resort One&Only Reethi Rah sees residences as well as a popsicle stand, sports gear, beachwear and more transformed with the Italian fashion brand’s signature approach to colour and pattern.

Missoni at One&Only Reethi Rah Maldives resort

The One&Only Reethi Rah Maldives resort is set on the North Malé Atoll, the Indian Ocean setting providing a glorious backdrop for classic Missoni patterns. 

Daybeds are adorned with graphic stripes in a spectrum of blues, echoing the tones of the perfect surrounding seas. Equipment such as paddleboards, bikes and buggies in Missoni’s blue hues are available to use and various lounging and seating areas have been dappled with Missoni ware, including a DJ booth catering to any of the resort's late-night beach-goers. 

Some of the residences at the resort – The Treehouse, Grand Residence and Grand Sunset Residence, along with a number of the Grand Water Villas – have been incorporated into the Missoni transformation. As for accessories, a series of Missoni-adorned yoga mats, towels, water bottles and beachwear are available to acquire in the One & Only Reethi Rah boutique. 

One&Only’s 13 international resort locations offer guests the chance to experience holiday stays in 11 countries, including Mauritius, Mexico, Australia, Malaysia, Greece, Rwanda and South Africa. The resort group looks to the local surroundings in forming the experience of each hotel, and in doing so has an offering of diverse destinations, spanning urban, jungle and beachside environments, each making the most of their context.

missoni.com; oneandonlyresorts.com

One&Only Reethi Rah, North Malé Atoll, Malé 08440, Maldives

Recent heat-soaked days have reminded us of the importance of suitable summertime attire – not least in the coming weeks, when people will travel abroad en masse, largely without restrictions for the first time since the beginning of the pandemic. With such escapes comes the dilemma of what to add to your packing list, a conundrum solved – at least in terms of footwear – with today’s announcement that Italian house Missoni will be collaborating with Suicoke on a colourful series of sandals. The best news? Suicoke x Missoni arrives this Friday (22 July 2022) – just in time for summer. 

The collaboration – which comprises four different combinations of colour and texture – merges the recognisable codes of Missoni (a bold use of colour, chevron motifs, knit elements) with Suicoke’s signature performance sandals. Established in 2006, Japanese label Suicoke is known for its technical approach to footwear, seeing functional details – moulded Vibram soles and footbeds, neoprene panels and adjustable nylon straps – meet an eclectic use of colour, print and texture. It is an approach that has gained the label a cult appeal at home and across the world, compounded by the relative anonymity of those behind the label, whose identities are rumoured and debated in discussions online.

Suicoke x Missoni: ‘a coming together of two creative visions’

The collaboration centres on two of Suicoke’s existing styles – the ‘Moto’, a slip-on with double-strap fastening, and the ‘Depa’, a performance hiking-style sandal. Soles are decorated with colourful Missoni-style prints; elsewhere, there is a feeling of collage, with various colours and textures combined in a single shoe. ‘[They] express the perfect symbiosis of strong graphics, technical materials and uniqueness of the wearer,’ says Missoni. ‘[It is a partnership that] celebrates the coming together of two creative visions.’

Suicoke x Missoni – which will be available from both Missoni and Suicoke’s online stores, as well as selected retailers worldwide – is described as ‘the first collaborative project’ between the pair, nodding to the possibility of further collections ahead.

INFORMATION

missoni.com
suicoke.com

Left, cardigan, €395; top, €470, both by Leorosa. Shorts, £395, by Erdem. Hat, £200, by Maison Michel. Sandals, £750, by Prada. Socks, €25, by Bresciani. Right, cardigans, £860 each, both by Missoni. Sandals, £750, by Prada. Socks, €25, by Bresciani.‘Maralunga’ armchair, £1,050, by Vico Magistretti, for Cassina, from Monument (throughout). 

The S/S 2022 menswear shows touted cocooning, kaleidoscopic and crafty cardigans as the knitwear silhouette of choice.

Milanese brands promoted prismatic, patterned and painterly shapes that reflected the exuberant spirit of the city – from Missoni’s signature chevron to Marni’s brushstroke stripes.

London-based brand Erdem, which presented its first men’s collection for spring, made a case for striped sleeveless jumpers and paintbox-red chunky cardigans in a Sebastian Flyte-meets-1970s-style-icon take on dressing. Meanwhile, the aesthetic of 1980s cinema informed young knitwear label Leorosa’s cardigan designs, which were colour-blocked, boxy creations that riffed on a preppy Ivy League polish.

Fellow fledgling label Waste Yarn Project also favoured contrasting yarn colours, creating collared cardigans formed using asymmetric panels in hues such as turquoise, yellow, fuchsia and orange. Demonstrating an anti-waste approach, each individual style is woven using leftover wool from a Shanghai factory. So instead of being left to gather dust in boxes on a factory floor, the yarns now cocoon the body in bold colour. 

INFORMATION

A version of this article appears in the April 2022 issue of Wallpaper*, on newsstands now and available to subscribers 

The heritage of Missoni – a brand synonymous with prismatic colours, zig-zag stripes and exuberant pattern – is woven into every thread of the 1953-founded Italian label. Its beginnings are also united with sport: the brand's co-founder Ottavio Missoni was an Olympic hurdler, competing in the 1948 Olympics in London, where he met his future wife and collaborator Rosita. He also designed tracksuits for his team, featuring then-innovative zips. 

Skateboarding debuted as a sport at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, so it's a neat, and gold-worthy, move that sees Missoni teaming with skate-and-streetwear brand Supreme for a collaboration. It's been a busy month for the New York label, which is fresh from announcing a link-up with Tiffany on a range of tag-inspired pieces, sported by campaign star and Supreme team skateboarder Sean Pablo. Supreme has collaborated with numerous brands and artists over the years, and created sellout drops with Rimowa, The North Face, Louis Vuitton and Fragment Design. 

Missoni and Supreme: Weave into the brands’ zig-zag world

Ottavio Missoni's knitwear creations nodded to Guatemalan, Aztec and Incan textiles or abstract, impressionist and art deco paintings, and the pieces in the Missoni and Supreme collaborative collection are equally inspiring. Hooded sweatshirts, cosy jumpers, bucket hats and bomber jackets are imagined in a range of prismatic textures, including an intarsia-knit sweater patterned with a bold New York skyline, and a chevron quilted coat featuring striped, knitted cuffs.

Missoni has also had a busy autumn. November marks the opening of the brand's flagship boutique in Shanghai, designed by Milanese architectural firm BBA Studio. In September, the brand also unveiled the debut collection of its new creative director Alberto Caliri.

Whether you are a potential Olympian or simply going for gold in terms of style, Missoni and Supreme's collaboration is a must-have. We recommend you weave your way into the brands' collaborative, colour-swathed sphere.

Seventeen months after it was originally slated to take place – in April 2020, when it was postponed because of the pandemic – Salone del Mobile once again graced the streets of Milano. While many of the usual suspects – Prada, Fendi, Marni, Louis Vuitton – opted to sit this Supersalone out, there was no less innovation to be found. Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele made a cartoleria pop-up complete with a mouse hole; Dior gathered 17 of the most esteemed artists in the world to interpret its iconic ‘Medallion’ chair; Giorgio Armani gave us spaghetti measurers and rolling pins; while Hermès crafted a world of fine fabric canopies. Here is the Wallpaper* edit of the best fashion brands at Salone del Mobile 2021.

Fashion brands at Salone del Mobile 2021

Dior

Dior took over the newly refurbished Palazzo Citterio to unveil its ‘Medallion’ chair project. As guests mingled in the Dior-ified gardens, in the concrete depths of the basement, 17 artists – including India Mahdavi, Joy de Rohan Chabot, Sam Baron and Khaled El Mays – presented their interpretation of the Louis XVI-style seat that Monsieur Dior chose as one of the interior emblems of his fashion house on Avenue Montaigne in Paris back in the mid-1940s. The collective result was a reminder of the contemporaneous spirit of the fashion house and its enduring codes. Speaking about the project as well as her own approach, Mahdavi told Wallpaper*: ‘Beauty comes from the strength of the lot; they’re separate but connected and it’s that togetherness that I like.'

Hermès

Staged at La Pelota, Hermès enlisted Hervé Sauvage on set design to create five hand-painted structures in which to house the Paris-based brand’s collection. Designed to celebrate the tension between different textures, guests were invited to crunch around the softly lit space with sand underfoot, a detail which emphasised the raw nature of each room’s curated contents. Inside the imposing constructions sat pieces ‘designed to be touched': its ‘Sillage’ armchair made from recycled paper fibres; its elm and calfskin jewellery boxes; the enamelled copper ceramics from its ‘Sialk’ collection; and cashmere blankets hoisted on wooden poles. With Manuel Rocha Iturbide, Antonio Fernandez Ros and Rogelio Sosa behind the sound design, it became a sensory homage to the physicality of craftsmanship.

Tod’s

Tod’s enlisted New Jersey-based artist Willie Cole for its installation at its Montenapoleone flagship. The contemporary artist, who has carved out a reputation for using discarded domestic items such as hairdryers and irons during his five-decade career, was given free rein in the Tod’s factory to make three sculptures using leftover materials from the production line. The result was a chair, a sofa and a sculpture using the uppers of the brand’s signature driving shoes. ‘The thing that interests me is recycling beyond sanitation,' Cole told Wallpaper*. ‘My work is all about “play”.’ To complement his creations, the brand launched its limited-edition ‘Mosaic’ collection, which uses a traditional patchwork technique, and the offcuts from its mainline collections.

Valextra

Valextra teamed with its neighbour Tom Dixon on a project that saw the brand stage Dixon’s ten-piece ‘Black Light’ exhibition in its Via Manzoni flagship. For his installation of ten huge light sculptures, Dixon took his cues from Milanese masters including Gio Ponti, Achilles Castiglioni and Ettore Sottsass. For its part, Valextra looked to the traditional Italian art technique of chiaroscuro – meaning to contrast light and shade – to create a collection of the same name that juxtaposed its multidimensional leathers in four of its iconic handbags: the ‘Iside’, the ‘Tric Trac’, the ‘Bucket’ and the ‘Brera’. The result saw two disciplines come together, said Valextra CEO Xavier Rougeaux, to ‘pay homage to Milan, its masters and celebrate the symbiosis between design and urban craft’.

Gucci

Alessandro Michele created every stationery aficionado’s nirvana with his Gucci Cartoleria pop-up on Via Manzoni, which celebrated the lauch of the Florentine brand's Lifestyle collection. A bona fide treasure trove of pencils, pens, notebooks, pencil cases, paperweights and board games (catnip for early-bird Christmas shoppers when they launch online this week), the space was an ode to the small Italian shops of Michele’s childhood. ‘I imagined a small cabinet of curiosities, a Wunderkammer, like the cave of Ali Baba, that could accommodate these everyday objects and return them to a fairy-tale dimension,' he explained. In his signature whimsical style, Michele incorporated an overhead upside-down train track, a sensor-activated chess set, and a mouse hole complete with a miniature living room at foot level. It was conceived, he said, to restore a sense of wonder to everyday life – and it did.

Armani Casa

Things you now need that you didn’t know you needed ten seconds ago: an Armani rolling pin, spaghetti measurer and chopping board. For his Armani/Casa 2021 collection, Giorgio Armani wanted to ‘express all the dimensions of the concept of “living at home”’, hence the handy additions to a collection that caters to spending lots of time in it. The brand’s first desk chair and a huge new eight-seater square table are joined by an internally lit room divider and a new limited-edition cylindrical bar cabinet, all making the home user-friendly in the most luxurious – aka the most Armani – of ways. He’s considered the garden, too. The ‘Robespierre’ barbeque set, the ‘Rovo’ gardening bag (complete with wooden-handled tools) and the ‘Regni’ cashmere and wool rug that doubles as a chess board with supersized leather pawns take outside living to another level.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake staged ‘In The Making’ in its Tokujin Yoshioka-designed Via Bagutta store. Presenting the construction process behind two of the brands under its umbrella, Im Men and A-Poc Able Issey Miyake, it affirmed its longstanding textile-innovation credentials. First up, the ‘Flat’ (whose construction is inspired by 132 5 Issey Miyake) and the ‘Convertible’, which condense into briefcase and crossbody bags and are crafted from the husk of sugar cane. Next up, its ‘Type-I’ project, which involves a process that uses Triporous, a material made from rice husks (100 million tonnes of which are discarded globally every year, the brand pointed out), and achieves a unique shade of black that cannot be done through conventional dyeing techniques. These projects were joined by a presentation of collaborations with Tadanori Yokoo and Fabio Bellotti, both of whom have been working with the brand since the 1970s.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens and Michele Lamy collaborated with Galerie Philia founder Ygaël Attali to engage ten emerging Italian designers to create pieces inspired by Owens’ furniture. ‘My furniture is my couture,’ declared the designer about his one-of-a-kind projects, which here sat alongside the pieces designed in his honour. A marble chair by Pietro Franceschini and a floating glass and brass vase by Agustina Bottini stood opposite a bronze bollard lamp by Owens. Atop Owens’ alabaster and moose-antler ‘Stag T’ side table sat a sculpted brass candleholder by Samuel Costantini, both illuminated by a brass and silicone ‘Howl’ light installation by Morghen. ‘Rick’s work is brutalist, dark and rough and some things here are very soft,’ said Attali. ‘To mix them creates a discussion [between materials] and a dialogue between Rick and the Italian designers.’

Stone Island

Salone’s delay has rendered the fifth installation of Stone Island’s Prototype Research Series, its experimental numbered-garment project, all the more beautiful. The brand experimented by applying a nanometric copper layer through a vapour deposition technique onto a fabric bonded with its signature raso cotton, and made 100 trench coats. The plan was to investigate the natural oxidation characteristics of copper in a fashion context using industrial processes (the first time a fashion brand has used this particular type of technology); the result was a fabric that has a stunning iridescent camouflage-like surface texture but became completely unbonded in the time since the coats were made, the bonding ‘eaten by the same oxidisation', explained creative director Carlo Rivetti; it means the pieces can’t – like previous collections – be sold. ‘This is the unfiltered story of an unfinished research process,’ he added. ‘Each step has taught us important things which will be important for the future, regardless of the goal achieved.’

Kassl Editions x Zara Home

High-street juggernaut Zara Home and indie Amsterdam label Kassl Editions presented their limited-edition homewares collection at the former’s flagship on Corso Venezia. With the first floor devoted entirely to an exhibition to present the tie-up, it made for a bold statement of design democratisation and one for which Kassl Edition’s ‘Pillow’ sofa (originally conceived for Wallpaper’s Re-Made initiative in collaboration with Muller Van Severen) was reinvented. Joined by art prints, flat-weave rugs, reversible mirrors and lacquered wood furniture that can triple as tables, shelves or plinths, the modular collection caters to design enthusiasts on a budget.

La DoubleJ

Supersalone saw La DoubleJ founder JJ Martin ‘activate a hunch and bring back the bat’. Stemming from the themes of spirituality for which the womenswear brand is becoming increasingly known, Martin commissioned the artist JoAnn Tan to help turn the basement of the brand’s new Via San Andrea store into a bat cave-cum-craft installation to celebrate the spirit animal. Martin’s vision came to life through Tan’s suspended bat lamps, made from turned walnut, Italian silk, and Hermès leather on the wings, and which each took one week to complete. The event provided a first opportunity for many to see inside the space, which opened this April, as well as see the brand’s new Miniscalchi homewares collection. Highlights include a set of porcelain plates featuring patterns that first appeared on tableware made for Napoleon Bonaparte’s visit to Verona, here rendered in bubblegum pink (‘because this is La DoubleJ!' laughed Martin), and an extension of the brand’s collaboration with Venetian glassmaker Salviati on smoky sets of liquor glasses.

Versace

Donatella Versace called on Milanese architects Roberto Palomba and Ludovica Serafini to translate Versace’s fashion-house codes for Versace Home in a bid to have a more ‘3D vision of [the] Versace environment’, explained Palomba. Staged in Versace’s Via Durini space, which opened in April, everything hinged on the Greca pattern, which debuted in the A/W 2021 ready-to-wear collection. It manifested here in cushions, bed linen and wallpaper in green, blue, pink and brown. Deliberately less extravagant than Versace Home of old, this collection marks a move towards a clean-lined aesthetic and a focus on details over drama. Symbols synonymous with the house – including the gold safety-pin and Medusa head – arrived as subtle details such as zips and buttons on the new leather ‘Venus’ armchair and buttons on the made-to-share ‘Signature’ sofa. ‘Donatella is the icon for a new generation of women, and we made a house for her to represent her: she wants to hunt, rather than be hunted,’ said Palomba. 

Off-White

Salone may see few brands designing with dorm rooms in mind, but then most brands aren’t Off-White. Creative director Virgil Abloh collaborated with the ceramicist Ginori 1735 on its new homewares collection, which comprises a tea set, serving platters and dinner plates in the Florentine company’s classic white porcelain, all graffitied with Off-White’s tag. ‘This is a collection for the modern dining room – whether formal in a home, a millennial apartment, or simply a dorm room,’ said Abloh of the first instalment of the collaboration (the next will land in 2022). ‘The imposition of the modernity of a logo and graffiti art with the respected house of Ginori 1735 is proof that good design can live on forever.' Studying just got a whole lot more civilised.

Loro Piana

Famed for its deliciously luxurious textiles, Loro Piana looked to the past, the present and the future to create three stories that celebrate fabric for its Salone presentation at its Montenapoleone store. First up it commissioned Gabetti & Isola to create an exclusive version of its iconic ‘Bul-bo’ lamp (originally created in the late 1960s); as the new ‘Bul-bo Soft’, its base is covered in cashmere and contrasting Altai wool fabric. Next up, an interpretation of the classic director’s chair by Exteta and Paola Navone-Studio Otto, which has resulted in the ‘Delight’ chairs, covered in an outdoor fabric conceived by Loro Piana that is light, salt-, chlorine- and fungus-resistant. And finally, there’s the ‘Palm Duet’ chaise longue, a creation by Raphael Navot made exclusively for Loro Piana and upholstered in Cashfur, a novel fabric made from combining cashmere and silk on circular knitting looms.

Etro

After the best part of 18 months spent at home, it’s little surprise that bar cabinets have made a celebrated return. Etro’s new offering, the ‘Rajan’, is equipped with bronze glass and lined in a champagne paisley print (naturally). It forms one of the elements of the brand’s ‘Intimate Dining' collection on display at its Via Pontaccio store, where it is joined by its new ‘Klee’ round dining table, complete with a dinner-party friendly lazy Susan; the suitably sumptuous ‘Kush’ armchair, which is studded in gold; and the ‘McKenzie’ glass lamps, which drop like jewels from the ceiling.

Missoni

Missoni had a three-fold presence across the city. Its Via Sant’Andrea boutique hosted its Virgila Soft loungers and circular Art Glass tables. On display at its Brera HQ was its new collection of Miss Wood chairs - rounded wooden sculptures which have been polished and painted in degrade pastel hues so to appear almost plastic in their structure - and its new Grandma armchair suite featuring curved Walnut arms and upholstered in five variants of its famed zigzag textile. But it was at the Universita Statale di Milano where the world of Missoni Home came to life: modular outdoor sofas and square poufs covered in its water-repellent Andalusia stripe stood in the shadow of a huge Missoni vase covered in an intricate mosaic by the famed Venetian furnace Orsoni Venezia 1888. Creative Director Rosita Missoni, who turns 90 in November, told Wallpaper* that it was a joy to be designing items that allow people to enjoy being outdoors, something she has personally relished since the start of the pandemic.

Sunnei

Milan-based Sunnei partnered with its fellow Milanese brand and long-term collaborators NM3 on an installation outside its Via Vela flagship to celebrate the Super Salone. The cuboid metallic seating structure features a maple tree in the centre and was designed to bring the inside out, creating a tranquil oasis in the heart of Milan’s urban centre – in signature low-key-chic Sunnei style. The design duo behind the brand, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, used the occasion as an opportunity to spruce up their collection space too, where they presented their autumn/winter 2021 collection, AKA the uniform of Milan’s design-centric cool crowd.

Roberto Cavalli

Taking its leave from its new designer Fausto Puglisi’s first menswear collection for the house in June, the Roberto Cavalli Home collection on display at its Via Montenapoleone flagship was all about optimum glam (before arriving at the house, Puglisi was famed for dressing Beyonce, Lady Gaga and Jennifer Lopez, so no surprise there). The result was two threads: the new Wild Dining and the Wild Suite. Brushed bronze tables, brass chandeliers and a bookshelf panelled in Wild Tiger fabric were met with animal-print bed linen, silk pillow cases and black leather bed frames, while the home office gets a suitably decadent update with a jewel-handled gold desk. 

Berluti

Berluti enlisted the talents of Spanish furniture designer Jorge Penadés to repurpose leather offcuts from its ready-to-wear collections to create three pieces of furniture that were unveiled in its new Montenapoleone flagship. After gathering a mound of multicoloured pieces, Penadés created what he has coined “Structural Skin”; it’s a wood-like structure that saw him compress the leather with natural glue in a bespoke mould and leave them to dry for weeks before cutting and sanding them down. Taking on a rock-like appearance similar to that of agate, his creation has formed the legs for a glass and steel table, the base of a table lamp, and keyring cords. Plans are to produce them in a numbered and limited-edition series, with only five of each available.

When it comes to travel – be it via plane abroad, car to a country hotel or train to city break – covetable and practical carry-on luggage is key. Whether you’re looking for something soft or hard shell, printed or pared back, expandable or ergonomic, cabin bag or duffle, a veritable world of onboard options awaits in Wallpaper’s edit of the best carry-on luggage and cabin bags – featuring Rimowa, Globe-Trotter, Tumi, The North Face, Missoni and more.

Wallpaper’s most covetable carry-on luggage

The lightweight: #MY4810 cabin compact trolley by Montblanc

Montblanc brings its engineering expertise to an expanded #MY4810 luggage offering, comprising new colours, sizes and finishes. Shades include ‘forged iron’, ‘British green’ and the petrol-blue ‘ottanio’, each available in the house’s cabin compact trolley, a truly lightweight polycarbonate suitcase which Montblanc calls ‘your personal travel companion’. Various interior compartments aid organisation, while a leather trim and handle showcase Montblanc’s expertise in leather. Combine with the sleek Meisterstück duffle bag and matching passport case for elevated departure-lounge attire. 

Key features

• Crafted from lightweight polycarbonate
• Leather handles and trim
• Internal organisation
• New shades, including include ‘forged iron’, ‘British green’ and ‘ottanio’

montblanc.com

The head-turner: Cabin Desert by Palace Rimowa

A new collaboration sees Rimowa unite with cult London-based skate brand Palace on a version of the German luggage brand’s ridged aluminium carry-on – here, emblazoned with a bold graphic print depicting a ‘dystopic desert landscape’. Designed to turn heads, the collaborative cabin bag is a ‘celebration of the spirit of mobility’ and features a unique ‘infinity’ artwork lining with Palace and Rimowa’s names woven into the motif. A matching print appears on the accompanying skateboard deck – a guaranteed collector’s item.

Key features

• Anodised aluminium alloy case
• Palace Rimowa ‘infinity’ lining
• Telescopic handle
• TSA-approved locks

rimowa.com

The jet-setter: carry-on trolley case and luggage set, by Globe-Trotter x Casablanca

Casablanca, founded by Parisian designer Charaf Tajer, has fast become one of fashion’s most recognisable young labels, known for a louche, sporty sensibility which roots itself in the aesthetics of the 1970s (the label itself describes itself as reinterpreting ‘the timeless environments of a luxurious heritage hotel suite or a crisp glass of champagne at a private country club terrace sunset’). A new six-piece luggage collaboration with historic British luggage brand Globe-Trotter captures the golden age of jet-set travel – the designs first featured in the brand’s high glamour aviation-themed A/W 2022 film Le Monde Diplomatique – with a ridged aluminium exterior, bamboo handles and an opulent interior in tricolour aviation check (on the exterior, Casablanca’s signature enamelled 22-karat gold branding plaque). For carry-on, an array of options await – whether a miniature vanity, attaché briefcase, or carry-on trolley case. For those heading further afield, a matching check-in case completes the luxurious set. 

Key features

• Ridged aluminium exterior
• Bamboo handles
• Enamelled 22-karat gold branding
• Tricolour aviation-check lining

globe-trotter.com

The alternative innovator: Cabin by Floyd

Have you always seen yourself as a pro skater, mastering ollies and heelflips and hanging out on top of a half pipe? Floyd’s founders spent their teenage years skateboarding on the streets of the Bavarian villages they grew up in, and their Munich-based luggage label is born from a nostalgia for kickflips and the Californian cool cultivated by skateboarders in Venice Beach in the 1970s. The brand’s range of hard-polycarbonate-shell check-in and cabin bag roll-on suitcases are accentuated with modern versions of the bright polyurethane skateboarding wheels popularised by Cadillac Wheels in 1973. Laura Hawkins

Key features

• Polycarbonate hard shell 
• TSA-approved lock
• Retractable top handle
• Multi-directional dual-wheels on base

matchesfashion.com

The design classic: Original Cabin by Rimowa

Luggage legend has it that Rimowa dreamt up its first aluminium suitcase in 1937, after a factory fire destroyed all its other materials, including wood and leather. The Cologne-based brand’s current aeroplane cabin-appropriate iteration has been compared by its former CEO Alexandre Arnault to a Leica camera or Porsche 911, and is imagined in grooved aluminium, first introduced to the company in 1950. Lightweight, luxurious and lustworthy, it’s an essential for brief business trips or design-led weekends away. LH

Key features

• Anodised aluminium alloy case 
• Riveted high-gloss aluminium corners 
• Telescopic handle 
• TSA-approved locks

rimowa.com

The award winner: Spectra 2.0 Global Carry-On by Victorinox

Keen to sport something that's won a design gong? Victorinox's ‘Spectra 2.0 Global Carry-On’ won the coveted 2014 Red Dot Award for Design Excellence and boasts a host of practical signatures: Swiss Tracker Bag Tracking programme, front compartments for a laptop and tablet, telescopic trolley system and four quiet spinner wheels for zipping through a train terminal. This compact creation is available in a trio of shades, including a striking red, and its front section features a range of interior pockets for those whose organisation errs on obsessive. LH

Key features

• Polycarbonate outer shell
• Organised front section with tablet and laptop slots
• TSA-approved lock
• Dual access 

victorinox.com

The essential for outdoors aficionados: Small Base Camp Duffel by The North Face

Explorers around the world frequently equip themselves with The North Face's ‘Base Camp Duffel’ bag, which, luckily for all air travellers, is also imagined in more compact cabin-friendly dimensions. This soft style is formed from practical water-resistant, recycled materials and, in a hybrid design twist, can be carried or worn as an in-transit backpack, using detachable, adjustable ergonomic shoulder straps. Not forgetting the style’s ultra-practical internal mesh pockets and side pockets, alongside expansion-allowing compression straps, should you be prone to over-packing. A must-have for a mountain adventure or simply a relaxing urban retreat. LH

Key features

• 50 litre capacity
• Water-resistant shell made from recycled materials
• Main compartment has a secure-zip mesh pocket and an end-cap mesh sleeve pocket
• Four compression straps

thenorthface.co.uk

The luxury leader: Carry-On by Aviteur

When Patricia Gucci – granddaughter of Gucci’s founder, Guccio Gucci – was developing the signature elements of her new carry-on luggage designs, ubiquitous graphics were the last thing on her mind. ‘The carry-on market is fairly polarised, with generic utilitarian bags at one end and luxury brands at the other,’ she says of the gap her label Aviteur seeks to fill. The resulting design is a sleek leather carry-on suitcase in supple black, tan or grey leather, which boasts a luxurious Paglia di Vienna weaved panel at its centre, inspired by cane luggage from the 1960s. The style is a blend of heritage and modernity, boasting a transparent Lucite handle, silent wheels and aluminium components, and nodding to the va-va-voom once associated with aviation. LH

Key features

• Finest calf-skin leather with components made of materials used in modern aircraft
• Transparent, buttonless solid Lucite handle
• Silent wheels
• Two inner compartments

aviteur.com

The sustainable stalwart: Circle One suitcase by Horizn Studios

Horizn Studios already makes some of the best and lightest luggage out there, with helpful extras like removable battery packs and dedicated laptop sections. The company’s latest range, ‘Circle One’, marks a number of innovations; a hard-shell case formed from biodegradable, 100 per cent plant-based material that is also lighter than aluminium and more eco-friendly and long-lasting than polycarbonate. The company not only sells this as luggage that can be ‘repaired – never replaced’, but it’s also offering a 30 per cent discount to those aged under 30, helping make sustainability more accessible. Jonathan Bell

Key features

• Biodegradable, ultra-durable hard shell
• Lightweight magnesium telescopic tubes
• Recycled zippers and bio-filled handles
• Designed to be repaired, and never replaced

horizn-studios.com

The bright idea: blue medium Sea Bag by Connolly

Leaders of the wondrous weekend-away look, British label Connolly excels when it comes to luxurious luggage. The brand has a range of soft travel styles, suited for stowing in the trunk of a vintage car while zipping into the countryside, or cushioning inside a plush, long-haul cabin. Enter Connolly’s ‘Sea Bag’, a sumptuous style in deep oceanic blue, crafted in supple leather, and featuring vintage palladium silver hardware for a well-worn effect. Its detachable shoulder strap makes it ultra-practical too. LH

Key features

• Supple leather
• Palladium silver hardware
• Detachable shoulder strap
• Top handle strap

connollyengland.com

The must-have for maximalists: International Expandable 4-Wheeled Carry-On by Tumi x Missoni

In a transatlantic team-up, New York luggage and lifestyle brand Tumi and Italian luxury label Missoni have collaborated on a prismatic travel collection, which abounds in the latter’s famous kaleidoscopic prints. For the partnership, Tumi looked to Missoni’s archival iconic zig-zag, festooning its signature ‘Voyageur’ luggage designs, from the ‘International Expandable 4-Wheeled Carry-On’ to the ‘Ruma Crossbody’, with rich rusty tones that are sure to draw envious glances in the departure lounge. LH

Key features

• Strong Tegris case
• Gold tone accents
• 2in expansion
• Printed compression straps

missoni.com

The standout of jet-set style: Centenary Carry On by Globe-Trotter

The designs of English luggage maker Globe-Trotter are synonymous with the Golden Age of travel, and have a touch of jet-set style that should be sought after today. Its designs have even been carried by Queen Elizabeth and Edmund Hillary. For your own elegant adventures, we recommend the brand's ‘Centenary Carry On’, a cabin-ready hard-case style designed in the brand’s signature Vulcanised Fibreboard, and available in a variety of delectable shades. Its interior is equally refined, and is lined in a tactile pinstripe. With this travel piece, you’ll feel supremely sophisticated, whether on a work trip or weekend away.

Key features

• Vulcanised Fibreboard exterior
• Pinstripe lining
• Leather corners and handles
• Two or four wheel specifications

globe-trotter.com

The covetable style for kids: The Kids’ Carry-On by Away

Travelling with tiny tots? May we present to you ‘The Kids’ Carry-On’ suitcase by Away, a scaled-down version of the cult American travel brand’s signature cabin silhouette. The style boasts many of Away’s luggage signatures, including a sturdy polycarbonate hard shell, smooth 360-degree spinner wheels, leather detailing, an interior compression system for expansion and an interior hidden laundry bag for separating grubby clothing. The mini carry-on even features an ejectable battery pack for charging electronic devices when your kids need a distraction in the departure lounge. LH

Key features

• Polycarbonate hard shell
• Smooth 360-degree spinner wheels
• Interior compression system
• Ejectable battery pack

awaytravel.com

We admit, the chance of a tropical beach holiday still feels far off for many. However, a sense of chic can still be brought to the local beach or lido, with or without the swathes of golden sand. Here we present four beachwear capsule collections guaranteed to get you in the mood for summer, whether you're taking in a poolside sunset or simply basking in the glow of a warm evening in your back garden.

 Emilia Wickstead x Emporio Sirenuse

Ah the Amalfi Coast: crystal clear sea, panoramic views and the very best Italian cuisine you can imagine. For those not lucky enough to escape to one of the Mediterranean's most exclusive spots, may we introduce to you to  Emilia Wickstead x Emporio Sirenuse's capsule collection. For the offering, the London-based designer has teamed up with Carla Paravicini Sersale and her niece, Viola Parrocchetti, the minds behind the Positano-based resort label, on a range of colourful swimwear and lightweight, luxurious separates in bold tones that nod to the bougainvillea and lemon trees synonymous with the sun-drenched setting. In celebration of the launch, seven Italian women are seen relaxing at the renowned Le Sirenuse hotel, sporting sublimely striped shirt dresses and chanelling all the understated elegance of la dolce vita.

emporiosirenuse.com
emiliawickstead.com

Chanel

Coco Chanel was fascinated by the idea of bringing comfort and ease to women's dressing, a sensibility emphasised in the brand's latest Chanel Coco Beach 2021 collection, a surf-kissed offering featuring loose shirting, shorts and asymmetric swimwear. Here, the Parisian label has transformed its signature camellia flower and interlinking CC logo into a Hawaiian print, which is also emblazoned across bucket hats, beach towels and even a surf board. There's also a feminine flourish to the capsule collection's one-piece and bikini designs, imagined in elegant monochromatic hues, and accented with delicate bow details.

chanel.com

Missoni x Mytheresa

Back in 1948, the Missoni brand achieved fame when it designed tracksuits for Italy's Olympic team, but its upliftingly colourful, chevron-stripe designs are just as suited for the beach. In celebration of summer, the label has teamed up with German luxury retailer Mytheresa on an eight-piece beachwear capsule collection of swimwear, kaftans and tote bags, swathed in its signature zig-zag weave. There's also an ecological uplift to the offering, as pieces in the collection are made from shimmering and prismatic deadstock fabrics. Soak up vitamin D sporting these designs and you'll feel good in more ways than one.

mytheresa.com

Totême x Matchesfashion

Swedish label Totême is synonymous with a pared-back sense of chic, and now the brand has brought this element of insouciance to the summer holiday wardrobe. Totême has teamed up with Matchesfashion on a 13-piece beachwear capsule collection of easy swimwear pieces and cover-ups, spanning graphic logo-detail one-pieces and towels, nautical silk sarongs and throw-on terry dresses. The collection has been photographed beside the sea in the south of France, but its modern pieces will bring a timeless sense of style to any summer ensemble, whether you're on relaxing on the Côte d'Azur or sunbathing in the city. 

matchesfashion.com

Armani/Silos Fabula Charles Fréger: Milan Fashion Week Men’s allowed editors the chance to catch Armani/Silos’ exhibition of the work of Charles Fréger. The photographer is famed for capturing different global communities, rituals and dress codes, and the showcase features over 250 retrospective images, from Steps, Fréger’s portraits of the Finnish ice-skating team, to the famed series Wilder Mann, a series dedicated to pagan figures, which crosses 18 European countries. The exhibition is on view until 24 March 2019.

Kiton: There was an air of expedition behind Kiton’s A/W 2019 offering, one crafted to cater to its on-the-go tailoring and travel obsessed customer. Suiting has taken on an ease, unstructured and more casual, with heritage houndstooth and Prince of Wales check taking on a renewed relaxation. The collection also introduces a range of outdoors worthy pieces new to Kiton’s canon, including luxurious parkas lined with fur and cosy sheepskin jackets.

Versace: RuPaul’s commanding refrain ’Shante you stay, Sashay away’ announced the start of Donatella Versace’s A/W 2019 show. The opening section paid homage to the bondage codes Gianni dabbled with in the early 1990s - harness printed T-shirts were teamed up with see through plastic trousers, while backless tailored jackets held together with straps where worn over baroque silk shirts. Elsewhere, sharply cut grey suits were given a high octane boost with floro lace linings and feather boa trims. The tempo revved up further in a collaboration with Ford. The automotive giants iconic logo was emblazoned over jeans and shirts. An update of the brand’s souped-up Chain Reaction sneaker came in leopard and an array of ultra brights.

Andrea Pompilio: The designer continued to evolve his unique approach to producing playful updates on wardrobe staples. He looked to rave culture and the early morning post club journey home for inspiration. Big and baggy proportions were key, with Pompilio turning up the volume on a plaid duffle, while elongated shirts appeared from under boxy blazers. Elsewhere, a macro-check wool overcoat had the ease of a dressing gown and jumbo cord trousers were teamed with plus-size sneakers. Other highlights included a down jacket and parka in mismatched heritage fabrics and tech nylon, and an anorak  emblazoned with leopard print.

Church’s: This season Church’s took a leisurely stroll around the streets of West London. Presented against a photographic backdrop of houses and front doors, styles were displayed on Church’s logo emblazoned door mats. The brands classic Shannon style appeared with a creeper sole and a bold silver buckle side fastening, while their Pembrey penny loafers were given a punk makeover and covered in flat studs. Elsewhere, the cobbler expanded its St. James’s collection with new bag styles and an elegant double buckle monk in soft grain leather.

Bed J.W Ford: Self-taught designer Shinpei Yamagishi was feeling reflective ahead of his Milan Fashion Week debut. Since 2010, his label – pronounced ‘Bedford’ – has become known for its street slouchy tailoring and play on gender codes. For A/W 2019 the duality was illustrated in thick wools paired with elegant satins, soft leather with nylon. There were fringed shawl collars on wool trench coats. Rolled velvet collars. Dusty jewelled tones of rust, amethyst and red. It is a languid eclecticism favoured by Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann. New for the season was a capsule made with Adidas Originals. The sportswear brand’s iconic three stripes are brought inside the leg on purple velvet track pants. Sock boot sneakers had gently spiked soles.

Brioni: Newly appointed executive design director Norbert Stumpfl presented his quietly confident debut collection for Brioni in a velvet lined room. The sumptuous surroundings showcased a collection of considered pieces that focused on effortless tailoring with luxurious details. A formal coat hides a shaved beaver lining, while a softly cut blazer came with an astrakhan collar. Elsewhere, a field jacket was given an exotic makeover in crocodile and a trench appeared in butter soft leather. As always tailoring was key – blazers in knitted jersey and cashmere had an easy elegance. The collection also introduced the Primo suit, a new slender fit silhouette and minimal construction making it the perfect day to night uniform.

Brunello Cucinelli: The brand loosened things up this season in a collection that turned up the volume while staying true to the brand’s classic silhouettes. Generously cut caban jackets and roomy cable knit cardigans were effortlessly thrown over single and double-breasted blazers. A suit in Bordeaux cashmere moleskin had a casual gentlemanly elegance about it, while the easy yet luxurious feel continued with a series of corduroy tuxedos. Elsewhere, fine v-neck knits appeared from under shirts, and relaxed fit jeans came in premium Japanese denim. Brown leather trekking boots and suede Derbies with rubber soles added a rugged sensibility.

Dondup: The Italian label is known for its subtle detailing and sure-fire wearability. For the coming season, the modish, understated outfitter pushed an outerwear message with the warmest, urban chicest style; a trench in wool plaid had a generous volume. Sleeves on slim cashmere knits were extra long. A nylon parka had fuzzy, teddy bear lining. Standout were custom parachute patchwork cargo pants – a canvas of velvet, corduroy, ultra light nylon, silk and heavy cotton. They had a modern, military rhythm.

Giuseppe Zanotti: The glamour and glitz of the label’s namesake founder was front and centre with splashy, sparkling leathers and glimmering textures on its classic styles. Standout was the Blabber capsule of sneakers, a development from S/S 2019’s Urchin style. This elegant new shape for the brand has a double tongue and double silver eyelets, lending it a lo-fi, 1990s Japanese insouciance. Covered in 3D printed vinyl spikes, it’s still packed with Zannotti’s seductive joie de vivre.

Miaoran: The Chinese-born designer Miao Ran moved to Italy to study at the Politecnico di Milano and has a Masters from Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti, where he teaches today. After some time working with Missoni, Ran launched his namesake brand in 2015 in Milan. He referred to his A/W 2019 show as a love letter to Milan – ‘seen through foreign eyes’. Earlier in the week Alessandro Sartori talked of the diversity and transience of the city; Ran’s approach is to remix its sartorial codes. From the clergymen to the Carabinieri and pizzaioli, the clothes had a monastic line. Washed denim was in workwear shapes. Fine-wool suiting had formal uniform details lined in hot-pink piping. Trousers were ruched at the waist. The clothes had a sombreness that felt local yet unknown.

Missoni: Angela Missoni presented the brands A/W 2019 collection in an installation created by artist Anton Alvarez. Mannequins stood amongst a series of colourful cylindrical sculptures dressed in a more minimalist Missoni attire. Striped unstructured blazers, grandfather style cardigans and chunky jumpers came in a refined colour palette of soft gradients - shades of camel fluidly morphed into ochre; crimson red into bright orange; and deep wine into electric blue. Texture was also key with different knit techniques often being layered over each other for tactile effect. In a special collaboration with Alvarez, two distinctive cable knit dégradé sweaters came with whirling relief patterns embroidered by hand.

Etro: There was a pinch of A Midsummer Night’s Dream’s playful Puck in Etro’s A/W 2019 collection, one designed to take wearers on a fantastical pastoral voyage, through verdant forests and across flowering fields. The offering abounded with medieval style tapestries, patchwork motifs, foliage prints, the house’s signature paisley and alchemical gold thread details, and featured sumptuous smoking jackets, bold suits, puffer jackets and shearling coats. Excellent finery for escapades in enchanted forests.

Ralph Lauren Purple: This season Ralph Lauren mounted his horse and channeled his deep affinity for riding in a collection rich with equestrian tropes. A soft suede bomber emblazoned with laser cut ridding motifs taken from archival scarf looked polo ready, while a gabardine raincoat featured the same scarf print as a lining. A generously cut wool overcoat closed with buckles was inspired by the RL Stirrup Watch, this also appeared on belts and sneakers with a strap fastening. Wool-cashmere turtlenecks, and Fair Isle sweaters were tucked into high-waisted trousers reminiscent of jodhpurs. A touch of fun came in the form of a coat made of Steiff teddy fur.

Santoni: The accessories house has never followed convention and this season was no exception, with the brand holding a mock auction to present their A/W 2019 collection. Guests were invited to bid on pairs of shoes, each lot being humourlessly introduced by the auctioneer. The brand’s classic double buckle monk appeared in shiny ebony leather with a slightly squared toe, while an ankle boot with eliminated seams looked super sleek. The brand’s signature lace-up mountain boots came in a high-top version with soft ankle padding and para rubber sole, alongside a low cut walking style. Elsewhere, loafers in exotic crocodile were toughened up with a chunky tread, and brogues came with untreated heals and soles. A range of running shoes using the brand’s unique artisanal approach and finest leather completed the collection.

Tod’s: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod’s presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. A classic puffer came in super soft chocolate brown leather, while a utility jacket in pale grey suede had an easy elegance. These were teamed with fine cashmere roll necks and basket weave knitted jumpers. Elsewhere, neat bombers and overcoats were made in eco-sustainable fabric. As always footwear was key – pull-on boots came with a new toecap embossed with the Gommino pattern, the classic Tod’s moccasin got a sporty update with a neoprene inner sock; and sneakers appeared in brushed calfskin with a Velcro fastening.

Tom Ford: The designer took a more minimalist approach this season in a pared down collection that played with volume, while staying true to the brand’s sleek silhouettes. The focus was high voltage outerwear - a blown up black parka revealed a cosy duvet lining, while a super lightweight puffer in copper came with a double-breasted zip fastening. The protective yet luxurious feel continued with nylon jackets and matching trousers that could be worn uniform-like. Elsewhere, a black leather suit with pronounced topstitching along its seams added a touch of danger, and an arctic white cashmere zip-up hoodie looked après ready. Bags in exotic skins came with concealed zips and robust hardware, and a new more sturdy monk strap ankle boot expanded Ford’s accessories range.

Jimmy Choo: A statement hybrid sneaker/trainer/shoe is the footwear of today; Jimmy Choo’s A/W 2019 collection explored a retro vision of the future. A millennial penchant for the glamorous and bold encouraged creative director Sandra Choi to new limits. The Diamond style sneaker which premiered last season returned, but amped up. Based on a crafted racing shoe, its chunky, semi-transparent octahedron sole is designed to look as if you’re about to step into a brilliant gemstone. It is a nod to Cinderella’s slipper via rock-infused, sportswear-inspired 1960s Americana and the ergonomic metallic sheen of the mid-century space race. Fantasy and the final frontier.

Francesco Maccapani Missoni (the son of the eponymous fashion house’s creative director Angela Missoni) collects family recipes, and as it turns out, its cuisine is just as singular as its style. Now, the knights of knitwear have swapped the atelier for the kitchen for a new family cookbook dedicated to home-styled Italian favourites.

‘Missoni food makes my soul smile,’ says musician (and longtime Missoni kitchen table regular) Quincy Jones in the introduction. Just as wrapping yourself in the lightning-stripes of a colourful Missoni cardigan on a summer evening, Missoni food gives you an unpretentious hug. It beats with colour, familiarity, locale. It changes, much like a new collection, with the seasons.

The cookbook features a repertoire of recipes so well rehearsed they have a word-of-mouth quality to the way they are written; they drip like olive oil from the writer’s pen, and are interspersed with photo-album snaps, cooking notes, and anecdotes from family members. One of our favourites: ‘A colourful table dressing is always a good start.’

The masters of zig-zag have swapped their signature pattern for eye-catching red-and-white checkerboard on the front cover, though the storied criss-crossing design wiggles its way through the collection of recipes: thrown nonchalantly across tables, encircling the rim of a porcelain plate. This is food photography with traditional Missoni whim and eclecticism.

Expect crisp spring salads (the ‘Asparagus a la Milanese’ is of particular note), and no-expense-spared desserts – don’t miss the Missonis’ ‘One and Only’ chocolate pudding. Most of all, expect to be warmed, happy – and full.

INFORMATION

The Missoni Family Cookbook, published by Assouline. Two recipes from the Missoni family cookbook will feature exclusively on the menu at Daphne’s restaurant in Chelsea, London from May 2018

Last November, Angela Missoni caught a performance of Romina de Novellis’ La Veglia in the Geneva home of collectors Julie Castoriano Bugnone and Edoardo Bugnone. The performance artist unravelled a web of yarn in the nude for a whole day, as a failed attempt at the liberation of the body. ‘You should be nearly entering the meditation that she is while she’s doing the knots,’ says Bugnone. ‘Listening to these traditional songs from the south of Italy that are sung in the local dialect.’

Raphael Castoriano, the founder of Kreëmart
and Missoni’s friend and art advisor, suggested that the fashion designer bring the performance to New York. The problem, was, she didn't have a house in the city. ‘I said, “No, we’re going to recreate the space”,’ recalls Angela. Castoriano was receptive, and called on his network to help fill the Missoni flagship store with art and furniture, while Angela provided her own personal possessions. Salotto Angela Missoni was born, with De Novellis’ performance inaugurating the space for the first three days. Part of the brand’s 'Surface Conversion' mission to merge art and fashion, the Kreëmart
-presented space will be open by invitation in Missoni’s Upper East Side boutique until 22 April.

Inside Raphael Castoriano and Angela Missoni's installation space, featuring Missoni poufs and a carpet by ABC

‘We wanted to create a salon so people would speak to each other and what you see here – some people talking, some people leaving, coming back,’ says Castoriano, who filled it with work by artists including Tracey Emin and Nir Hod – all practitioners held in Missoni’s collection. ‘My houses are very much alive, always between friends and family,’ she continues.

Upon entering the Salotto, which feels like a bohemian living room, guests are greeted by a photographic work by Mickalene Thomas. Further in stands a sculpture by Josephine Meckseper. Assouline coffee-table books fill the shelves, while exotic rugs cover the floors. Angela added her own trinkets, like vintage Missoni pillows, family photographs and even a Missoni Barbie doll. ‘I have sort of decoration, which is kind of eclectic,’ says Angela. ‘A mix of precious and less precious things – things that are precious for me.’

Both Castoriano and Missoni emphasised the need to keep the gatherings small, thus keeping it to a select group of friends and family. ‘It cannot be a crowded space,’ says Missoni. ‘We need to keep this intimate.’

INFORMATION
Salotto Angela Missoni is on view until 22 April. For more information, visit the Kreëmart website or the Missoni website

ADDRESS

Missoni
1009 Madison Ave
New York NY 10075

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Mood board: It’s always a cosy affair at Missoni but the love-in was especially warm this season, with the front row all bedecked in matching cat ear knitted caps. It all fell into Angela Missoni’s ‘Go Girl’ theme of women’s rights expressed not just on the clothes but also in her post-show speech, in which she called for solidarity and positivity in the face of adversity before taking off down the runway with a gaggle of models. The collection seemed to follow the same manifesto of unity. To wit, Missoni showed one of its best, brightest and most cohesive collections in recent memory.

Best in show: Lurex was the show’s clear-cut winner, making every piece, including great-looking knit tube skirts and matching long vests, shimmer and shine in their luminosity. Patterns were blown up this season all the better to see fabulous geometric and tribal formations. It was graphic as well as fresh, punched up with the occasional fur coat featuring colourful graphic intarsias.

Finishing touches: The extras were quirky and added something off-kilter, like turquoise tights paired with turquoise suede pumps; Lurex knit scarves snaking over the models’ shoulders; or pointed toe kitten heel boots.

Cedric Charlier: The designer’s debut menswear collection effortlessly merged tailoring with sportswear. Block colour was used to graphic effect on the panelling of tracksuits. A knitted jumper appeared in flecked grey from the front, but it’s back offered a surprise of acid yellow. Elsewhere a black jacket came with a cobalt blue front panel and baby pink collar.

Caruso: The Italian tailoring brand continued to explore its idea of what a good Italian man should wear. This time around, more casual outwear pieces were added to his wardrobe. A softly tailored jacket in the finest cashmere found its buttons being replaced with a zip, while a parka was cut in wool suiting. Other notable items included a shirt with a detachable ruffle button stand, and another with pleated cuffs.

No 21: Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua looked to the rebellious spirt of young political activists in the seventies for inspiration. This manifested itself in reworked men’s wardrobe staples with an anarchic edge. A knitted oversized jumper appeared half finished, while a Price of Wales check jacket came with camouflage patches. Heavy duty footwear came with bold buckles, and straps hung from trousers adding a punk edge.

Giuseppi Zanotti: A recent trip to Shanghai inspired Giuseppe Zanotti this season. Custom designed brocades adorned the brand’s signature style boots, tasselled slippers and bags. Other new offerings included flocked sneakers in shocking pink and electric blue, alongside loafers trimmed with metal pearls at the opening.

Missoni: Designer Angela Missoni looked to the architecture and industrial elements of Japanese cities for A/W17. Knits came with sharp, geometric lines reminiscent of the Tokyo skyline. Metallic embroideries were inspired by Japanese Shibori design and blurred motifs referenced Kasuri textiles. The brand also collaborated with Paris-based milliner Larose on a series of loom-knitted bucket hats, caps and berets.

Valextra: This season Valextra collaborated with design studio Snarkitecture on a new pop-up store, in celebration of the brands 80th anniversary. The all-white space showcased the brands monochrome collection, consisting of iconic pieces from its history, alongside new all-white styles. Highlights included the ’Tric Trac’ wrist case from 1968, designed by Valextra’s founder Giovanni Fontana. The design was originally inspired by Fontana seeing a London cab driver who tossed his keys, coins and receipts back and forth into a small box and a wallet.

Neil Barrett: This season Neil Barrett delved into his own archive for inspiration. Tailoring was key, with Barrett playing with volume and proportion: a drop shoulder blazer was teamed with cuffed three-quarter length trousers, while a generously cut overcoat was thrown over a relaxed knit and running leggings. Military inspired shoes and boots gave the collection heavy-duty appeal.

Dsquared2: DSquared2 designers Dean and Dan Caten took to the Rocky Mountains for inspiration. Oversized, slouchy cardigans were layered over boxy workwear jackets and plaid shirts, while slim fit trousers cropped at the ankle and climbing boots helped to emphasise the play on proportions. Other highlights included a voluminous sheepskin jacket that snugly enveloped its wearer, and a camouflage puffer jacket made from multiple padded layers.

Jil Sander: For the label’s A/W 2017 collection, inspiration came from the earthy and merciless landscapes in Halldor Laxness’s Nobel Prize winning novel Independent People. Heavy coats and parkas came fit for bitter winters, and were imagined in chalky greys, yellows and mossy tones.

Tod’s: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod’s presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. Sheepskin ran throughout the collection, appearing shaved to resemble corduroy on a peacoat and puffer jacket. Elsewhere it colourfully framed seams on sneakers and weekend bags. Functionality was also key, with jackets carrying multiple pockets and inside compartments.

Diesel Black Gold: For A/W17, creative director Andreas Melbostad took inspiration from the uniforms of Ninjas. Jackets came with enlarged envelope collars and kimono sleeves, while others were tied at the waist samurai-style. Quilting, alluding to armour, was also a key motif, which was urbanised with Japanese raw denim.

Santoni: A mysterious curtain-lined corridor with shoes peeping from beneath greeted guests at the Santoni presentation. The ominous soundtrack of The Pink Panther theme tune by Henry Mancini only heightened the mood. The iconic Santoni double buckle appeared with a cosy fur lining, while tasselled loafers came in high shine patent leather. A pair of midnight-blue climbing boots in astrakhan and crocodile perfectly married Santoni’s craftsmanship in a modern luxurious way.

Moschino: Creative director Jeremy Scott enlisted stylist and jewellery designer Judy Blame to create bric-a-brac chain, coin and safety-pin details for his military-focused collection. These embellished berets, belts and the straps of parachute bags, and hung as chunky necklaces. 

Wood Wood: Nineties New York streetwear and the east coast hip-hop scene were the two key inspirations for Wood Wood’s A/W 2017 collection. Sportswear was fused with formal suiting throughout: a fleece hoodie emblazoned with the ’WW’ logo was teamed with a pair of loose fit pinstripe trousers, elsewhere a formal cut coat in checkered wool was teamed with track pants.

Ports 1961: Designer Milan Vukmirovic stripped back on fuss this season and took a more minimalist approach. Inspired by workwear uniforms, reflective bands cut across parkas and bombers. Chucky cable knit jumpers, utility vests in wool, and shirts with quilted fronts hammered home the point.

Rossignol: Skiwear brand Rossignol hit the streets this season with a collection of functional separates made for the mountains as well as city life. High performance fabrics such as paper nylon and neoprene were fused with fur and leather in parkas and puffer jackets, while padded vests added an extra layer of protection.

Pal Zileri: For A/W 2017, Pal Zileri celebrated the craftsmanship and skill of those who create their pieces. Models walked between sewing machines and seamstresses hard at work, as if producing the clothes being shown. Tailoring and outerwear was the focus. Suits were made up of sharply cut blazers and teamed with slouchy wide leg trousers, while generously cut overcoats offered sartorial shielding from the winter elements.

Fratelli Rossetti: Luxury shoe brand Fratelli Rossetti looked to 1930s swing dancers for its inspiration this season. Alongside a collection made up of only brown styles, dancers performed with a live swing band. The colour was extremely popular at the time and the brand reinterpreted it using various hand painted techniques, making each pair of shoes unique.

Church’s: Stepping out at Church’s this season is the ’Swing’, based on an American golf shoe, plus a new country collection consisting of heavy duty derbies and boots in hard wearing leather and pig skin. Church’s classic Penny loafer also gets an update in suede and a bold crepe sole.

‘Contemporary art is a part of my daily life – I’ve been following it for many, many years,’ muses Angela Missoni on the eve of the launch Surface Conversion, a new art programme which has been brewing for two years.
and launched this week in the fashion label's New York flagship on Madison Avenue. The Italian creative director recalls seeing galleries like Emmanuel Perrotin's arriving in the area and thinking: ‘those huge windows can be used for more than just fashion.'

In terms of volume and surface space, the store is exceptional – hence the project’s title. Missoni is literally converting the shop floor and putting it to a different use. The idea is to create a multi-faceted creative platform where diverse interventions can take place: from exhibitions through to talks, book launches and live performances.

At yesterday’s launch event, two of these initiatives could already be ticked off. Servane Mary, the Brooklyn-based artist who kicks off the programme, filled the corner windows and a series of lightboxes with her visual art, press and publicity images from the 1940s and 1970s, riffing on female mis-representation and identity. But Mary also performed live with her band, The Cornichons.

‘I was twelve in 1970,’ says Missoni, ‘so I took the revolution for granted. Even so, I know it’s still necessary to have a voice and give other women a voice.’ The feminist message in Mary’s work is something Missoni feels close to – consider her mission accomplished.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Missoni website

ADDRESS

1009 Madison Avenue
New York
NY 10075

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Mood board: Angela Missoni cleaned things up for spring, sweeping her collection of the usual razzle dazzle and letting her beautiful knits in their purest form do all of the talking. The silhouettes were long and lean – much like the 1990s slip dress or lingerie top jumpsuit – except when they went microscopically small on itty-bitty bikinis that require the body and buns of a female goddess like Gisele.

Best in show: This show was a lovely, pared down Missoni show and it sung best when Angela took the simple shapes and applied her family's brand of optimistic glamour to them. Especially successful was the color blocked segment made up of a striped collage of different Lurex ribbed knits.

Finishing touches: Missoni proposes high, block-heeled mules for strolling poolside in nothing but your tiny bikini but the rest of the footwear – especially the pointed toe, flat mule slippers – was remarkably grounded and great.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mood board: The palette got cleansed at Missoni this spring as Angela Missoni turned back once again to the bright, light and simpler, easy silhouettes that are inherent to her family’s famous knitwear brand. It was fabulous to see a colour palette that evoked happy, effortless spring days as well as the clothes that women will want to wear on them.

Best in show: Pattern is a given at a house like Missoni but this season the collection soared with simpler, easier-to-digest striping whose graphic lines did the perfect amount of talking. All were great, but the best of these were vertical in format and tucked inside the pleats of long knit skirts and dresses whose panels splayed open to reveal a multi-coloured flash of hue.

Finishing touches: Shoes were completely flat. For dressier moments there was Missoni’s leather stripped pointed toe ankle boots. But most of the looks, even the dressier ones were paired with Converse All Stars high tops that had been custom-covered in graffiti -like scribbles.

INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Pringle of Scotland: In a continuation of the Scottish house's 200th anniversary celebrations, Michael Clark Company dancers performed live to an intimate crowd at Corso Como wearing heritage Pringle of Scotland knitwear from as early as 1915, combined with the brand's new S/S16 knitwear pieces

Brioni: This season Brioni drew inspiration from architect Carlo Scarpa, whose work was sensitive to the changes of time, seasons and history. Models breezed in and out of a concrete structure in elegant steel grey suits worn with parkas made from high-tech parachute-thin Japanese nylon that billowed with movement

Piquadro: The Italian accessory brand focused on remodelling the backpack this season. The graphics of a 'motherboard', a symbol of modern technology and the Eighties' idea of the future, was reworked to camouflage effect in brilliant colours

Diesel Black Gold: The denim titan pushed outerwear into a realm that was quite simply out-of-this-world for S/S 2016.

Salvatore Ferragamo: One of our favourite design gallerists, Claudio Loria of Leclettico, designed the brand's jungle-inspired S/S 2016 set, packed with real plants and design pieces from Gabriella Crespi, for Ferragamo this season

Bally: The Bally man took to the mountains this season in a collection inspired by the great outdoors. Jackets came with multi pockets while hiking boots and a Swiss Army inspired backpack were given a luxe overhaul in python skin

MSGM: Swedish artist Anton Alvarez of graffiti 'Yarn Bombing' fame inspired in a new era of knitting at MSGM.

Sportmax: During men's week in Milan, several women's brands got in on the fashion action like Sportmax who unveiled its latest artist collaboration with LA-based illustrator Langley Fox Hemingway

Facetasm: Showing at the Armani Teatro, Hiromichi Ochiai of Facetasm presented a collection of oversized shapes with an architectural edge that merged a street style swagger with a sartorial elegance.

Z Zegna: For spring Z Zegna fused city tailoring with the energetic world of kite surfing in a collection of weightless silhouettes with flighty kite-inspired shapes paired with sharp formal attire

Ports 1961: Marble skateboards took us back to our youth at Ports 1961

Missoni: The house of the zig-zag checked into the season's plaid trend for S/S 2016.

Calvin Klein Collection: Italo Zucchelli took to America's west coast in a collection inspired by Ed Ruscha's photographs of Palm trees and the surf culture of the area

Santoni: In addition to the footwear brand's superb S/S 2016 collection of new elegant sandals and formal shoes, the brand collaborated with Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda on its latest Milan presentation. The duo created hand-cut collages that were used on shoe pillows, a film and a giant book that was over two feet tall and all presented within Palazzo Bocconi that had been transformed into a summer garden to celebrate its 40th birthday. Here's a peak at the video

Santoni: The new Santoni colour card for spring 2016

Kiton: Naples in the 1940s and the distinct style of Neapolitan men inspired luxury tailoring brand Kiton's S/S collection. Once again fabric innovation was key with the development of a super light micro wool appeared as elegant double-breasted jackets in bright Mediterranean shades.

Caruso: The house paid tribute to International Yoga Day at its presentation of the finest men's tailoring

Fratelli Rossetti: A sea of plastic shoe models bobbed along the floor at Fratelli Rossetti's men's presentation

Tod's: Craftsmanship was key at Tod's with hand painted details on military inspired leather jackets and knitwear

Emporio Armani: Claw tooth lace-up shoes and wool beanie berets were the quirky extras to an otherwise sober and very cool Emporio Armani show.

Giorgio Armani: The award for best bathrooms during Milan fashion week goes to Giorgio Armani in his Tadao Ando designed theatre

Neil Barrett: This coral reef, puzzle-piece camouflage print climbed all over the floors and clothes at the Neil Barrett show

Neil Barrett: On the runway, three button jackets gave off a slightly Nineties vibe.

Andrea Pompilio: Part biker, part jogger, part boxer, part snowboarder, Andrea Pompilio's man for next spring is wholly eccentric and completely convincing. Showing outdoors in the back yard of Milan's Pinacoteca was the perfect foil for these male peacocks

No 21: Milan's Palazzo del Conservatorio was the site of Alessandro dell'Acqua’s spring collection for No 21

Brunello Cucinelli: There is nothing quite as soothing on the eyes as a Brunello Cucinelli presentation and this season it was all about the pleated and tapered pant

Corneliani: Milan fashion week started with a bang inside the richly frescoed interior of Palazzo Litta, site of the Corneliani show

Loewe: Spanish leather goods house Loewe presented a limited edition collection of leather vessels inspired by Austrian potter Lucie Rie and produced by Spanish artisan José Luis Bazán

Loewe: Creative director Jonathan Anderson designed three sets of 50 different leather bowls, sculpting each one with his hands for a collection of one-of-a-kind creations 

Marni: Marni's successful fruit bazaar at last year's Milan fashion week morphed into a fruit market at the brand's Milan Headquarters during the Salone del Mobile

Marni: Baskets brimming with exotic fruit from Colombia were all put on display with woven PVC, wire furniture and tabletop designs from a group of female Colombian artisans

Brioni: The master tailors and Wallpaper* joined forces once again this Salone. Paying tribute to the Viennese elegance that inspired Creative Director Brendan Mullane's latest collection, the fashion brand teamed up with Vienna-based glassmakers Lobmeyr to create a specially oversized version of its legendary Oswald Haerdtl-designed Candy Dish, which in turn takes centre stage for a city of glass for Brioni’s mini heroes, all immaculately dressed in miniature replicas from the collection

COS: Visitors to Spazio Erbe in Brera wandered through an enormous all-white, cave-like structure created expressly for the COS clothing brand

4179086460001

COS: Designed by New York-based studio Snarkitecture, the space was showered in translucent white textile strips that looked like icicles dripping from the roof of a grotto

Clarks: In honour of the 65th anniversary of its Desert Boot, British shoe brand Clarks partnered with the Halo Trust to present new versions of the boot created by 14 different UK-based artists and designers including Marc Quinn, Lee Broom and Faye Toogoode. The painting featured is entitled 'Urban Nomad' 

Giorgio Armani: In addition to a new Armani Casa collection that featured the limited edition 'Justin' desk in sea-green leather and red lacquer chairs among other items, Giorgio Armani also transformed his Armani Teatro space into an interior design studio

Alexander McQueen: Studio Wieki Somers and Kvadrat took up residence at McQueen's Via Verri home through a unique, bespoke installation. Inspired by the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, 'Blossom Rain' featured three geisha warriors holding a series of lamps against a blossom haze backdrop of laser cut textile from Kvadrat

Giorgio Armani: A retrospective of the company's top design projects over the last decade were on display in honour of the designer's 40th anniversary that is coming to a culmination next month with the debut of his new museum Armani/Silos

Giorgio Armani: Mr Armani also opened a brand new flagship store at Via Montenapoleone 2, which is dominated by sweeping curves. 

Fendi: The Roman brand has been dangling its Bag Bug fur charms from its handbags for a few seasons now, but it took the Campana Brothers to throw 100 of the playful furry creatures all together on a single seat. Entitled 'The Armchair of a Thousand Eyes,' the chair is a riot of colour, pattern and mixed tufts of kidassia, mongolia, shearling and rabbit furs

Tory Burch: Celebrating the launch of their new Lettuce Ware in collaboration with legendary Palm Beach ceramicist Dodie Thayer, the American lifestyle brand and Wallpaper* commissioned Bethan Laura Wood to create a unique installation. Inspired by retro party nibbles, Wood created a equally bright and cheerful installation of super-sized canapés. Following their Milan debut, they will next tour around Tory Burch stores in London, Munich and New York

Fendi: The house also showed a new Casa collection with the 'Blixen' lounge chair by Toan Nguyen taking our fancy

Antonio Marras: The Italian's long-running collaboration with boutique creative design agency, Segno Italiano, yields increasingly satisfying results. This year, the team created a giant bird cage featuring a series of hand-made wooden nests swinging from the ceiling and trailing with Marras' own textiles, while 50 tiny birds happily chirped and fluttered about. The same artisan who made the nests was also commissioned to weave river cane rods with strips of Marras' fabric to create a series of vases and baskets

Missoni: Apart from its latest home collection featuring graphic black and white upholstered furniture, Missoni also created a lounging experience for weary Salone visitors in its Via Solferino Showroom

Missoni: Entitled 'Missoni Mirroring,' the setup included suspended mirrors, peep-holes featuring endless reflections of ceramic vases. Walls were covered with mirrors and tapestries, and floors were strewn with carpets and poufs for guests to lounge on

BassamFellows: As part of its five-designer series to recreate the classic shoes worn by Marcello Mastroianni in the 1960s, traditional Italian footwear designer Sutor Mantellassi collaborated with Connecticut-based furniture designers Scott Fellows and Craig Bassam. BassamFellows, already intimately fond of finely crafted materials, choose strips of eel skin on a sleek, slip on loafer, and sturdy leather for their chelsea boot

Bottega Veneta: The house secured a superb location for its first free-standing home collection boutique. Located discreetly on Milan's Via Borgospesso, the store unfolds like a series of grand rooms in a renaissance palazzo with magnificent wall frescoes and double-height wooden ceilings

Bottega Veneta: This was the first time the brand properly showed off its full home offering in a single dedicated space

Versace: The latest Versace home collection comes revved up with the usual sparkle, flash and oversized shapes that drives its signature excess. The new 'Coupe des Dieux' chair, however, is cut in slim lines and covered entirely in leather (either dark grey, white, red or turquoise) and is an antidote to the usual extravagance

Bulgari: To celebrate its latest Serpenti jewellery collection, Bulgari worked with Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid to create a snake-inspired installation in the garden of the Bulgari Hotel

Bulgari: Hadid's enormous white metal structure slithered across the grass like a tunnel featuring an open mosaic of reptilian scales

Valextra: The Italian luxury handbag label teamed up with furniture designer Martino Gamper for the design of several new handbags featuring his signature intarsia work as well as a special installation at the Via Manzoni store

Valextra: Gamper lined the shop in magnetic sheets. He covered the walls with rich Kvadrat wool and then affixed handbags directly to the walls using magnets. This created a floating sea of accessories

Emilio Pucci: The Italian house partnered with industrial designer Philippe Starck on the design of a new chair produced by Kartell and presented in Pucci's new Via Montenapoleone boutique

Emilio Pucci: Entitled 'Madame,' the new chair features Kartell's signature plastic clear legs, while Pucci's 'Cities of the World' scarf prints (offered in four city graphics, including New York, Paris, Shanghai and Rome) provided a printed outer wrap to the solid silk seats

Ermenegildo Zegna: The house tapped Milan-based Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola to create a series of seating elements from recycled wine barrel wood

Ermenegildo Zegna: Entitled 'Baco,' Urquiola's concept included two forms: a tunnel shaped stool and a three-petal seat, both of which were displayed in the brand's boutique. The project was conceived by San Patrignano Design Label who has worked with over 45 designers to create modern pieces from antique casks

Adidas: In conjunction with their Body Building Design collection, which graces the cover of this month's issue (W* 194), Milan-based duo Alberto Biagetti and Laura Baldessari have also designed a pair of shoes produced by Adidas. Featuring muscle-men graphics, the shoe was presented at INNER, a boutique in Via Pasquale Paoli 4, Milan

Paula Cademartori: Atelier Biagetti has had a busy Salone. In addition to their Body Building Design exhibit and the Adidas shoe, they also created a totem shaped book shelf for Paula Cademartori, the Brazilian-born Milan based accessories designer who launched her new 'Lotus' sandal at Corso Como 10

Marcelo Burlon: Fashion designer Marcelo Burlon has quickly made strides with his eponymous sportswear label. Now the young entrepreneur is growing his brand with a collection of three graphic carpets, all hand-knot in Nepal that he designed for Italian rug company Illulian

Lawrence Steele: Marble manufacturer, Marsotto, partners with different industrial designers every year, but they've never teamed up with a fashion designer until now. The marriage with Aspesi designer, Lawrence Steel, was a happy one, thanks to Steele's three collections of tables and consoles featuring sharp lines and graphic black and white intarsia patterns

Tod's: What would the ideal bag for a male architect look like? This was the task set forth by Japanese design studio, Nendo, in its second collaboration with leather goods company Tod's. Crafted from super soft calfskin, the resulting bag features multiple pockets both inside and outside for documents and pens, while its form can morph from a carry-all tote, and a fold-over man-bag, to a strapless clutch with just a few quick snaps

Roberto Cavalli: More continues to be more in the home world of Roberto Cavalli, where the designer offers all manner of exotic pattern for every interior surface. This season's collection came brimming with lush florals and his beloved leopard print crawling on plates as well as floral intarsia rugs and upholstered dining room chairs

La Rinascente: Milan's most famous department store collaborated for the second year in a row with the Serpentine Galleries for a special commission on eight store front windows. Entitled 'Pasted' and curated by Libby Sellers, the window display featured a preview exhibition of a soon-to-be-launched collection of Serpentine Gallery wallpapers. These wallpapers were designed by various artists and architects. They also featured three specially commissioned and filmed dances choreographed by Malgorzata Dzierzon that screened against site-specific installations by emerging set designers and paper sculptors including Lydia Shirreff, Anna Lomax and Carrie Louise

Bertoni 1949: Classic Italian trunk maker Bertoni 1949 partnered for the second Salone in a row with Hangar Design Group on a 'Game Trunk'.  A traditional oak casket, covered in Bertoni’s leather parchment and alligator trim, is set on elegant steel legs and features drawers stocked with a chess set, a set of poker playing cards, a mahjong game and dominoes, all of which can be played on the pull-out table

While design week puffs along in Milan, iconic fashion brand Missoni opens the doors to a new fashion and art exhibition, 40 minutes away at the MA*GA Museum in Gallarate, Italy. Entitled 'Missoni, Art, Colour' and curated by Luciano Caramel and Emma Zanella, the exhibition features a special edit of 100 garments from the brand's 62-year history, mixed with European art from the 20th century.

The mix between fashion and art is a trendy topic of late, but in Missoni's case, the cross-pollination has roots with the brand's founders, Rosita and Ottavio Missoni, who launched the brand in Gallarate in 1953.

'My parents were both very passionate about art,' explains Angela Missoni, who took the creative reigns of her family's company in 1997. 'But my father also painted. When they first moved to Sumirago [a hillside town 15 minutes away from Gallarate where the family and its headquarters are now based], they had a lot of white walls but no money to buy art. So my father spent several months at a friend's studio creating paintings to hang on the walls at home.'

A series of these paintings, created by Ottavio in the late 1970s, is on display at the museum, together with a collection of tapestries he made in the 1980s. The personal artwork is mixed with modernist masterpieces. Work by Lucio Fontana, Wassily Kandinsky and Sonia Delaunay is on display, as well as many of the other 20th century artists who inspired by Rosita and Ottavio in the development of their vibrant patterns and signature graphic style.

Also noteworthy is an installation created by Luca Missoni - Angela's brother who oversees the brand's archives - that features huge spools of coloured threads and tubular nets of fabric. A video installation created by Turkish artist Ali Kazman in 2009 that shows the evolution of a collection from dying threads to final garments is also included, along with a tight edit of clothing spanning the brand's history.

'Knowing everything I do about our archives, it's painful knowing what's missing [from the 100 pieces],' admits Angela. 'But it looks very special - and when a regular person walks in, I think they'll think it's pretty spectacular.'

ADDRESS

MA*GA Museum
Via de Luigi 1
Gallarate, Italy

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Italian design dynasty Missoni is the latest resident of Paris' rue Saint-Honoré with the opening of its new flagship store at number 219. Inside, the house's distinctive chevron is imaginatively integrated into parquet floors, multicoloured marble walls and slatted timber screens - the result of the brand's continued collaboration with Milan-based Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola, who was responsible for recent revamp of the Italian label's Milanese flagship.

Working to a similar scale - 300 square metres across two floors - Urquiola sought to maintain the design concept executed in the Milan store, while integrating Parisian design details. 'I have always wanted our boutiques in every city to have a different interpretation,' says creative director Angela Missoni. For the new French flagship, this is revealed in architectural details such as the soft lines of the staircase, the rounded corners of the ceilings, the lighting trellises and the 'Point de Hongrie' parquet flooring - a nod to classic French palaces and gardens.

Oak floors, textured chevron rugs, copper clothes rails and accents of rusty orange and pink create a warm ambience, while patterned poufs borrowed from the label's hugely popular home collection are complemented by Urquiola's perforated 'Tatou' lamps for fellow Italian brand Flos.

ADDRESS

Missoni
219, rue Saint-Honoré
75001 Paris
France
Tel: 33.1 44 51 96 96

VIEW GOOGLE MAPS

Fashion week, these days, is about much more than just the collections. Showmanship is the name of game, and in the meticulously executed sartorial extravaganzas, the sound space is an element that no producer or designer can afford to overlook. Music royalty - past, present and future - is enlisted to ensure a full assault on the senses. Here, we bring you Milan Fashion Week's catwalk mega mix from the S/S 2015 womenwear collections.

WEDNESDAY 17/09

No 21
'Running Up That Hill' by Kate Bush; 'Come Undone' by Trentemoller; 'Love Is A Battlefield' by Pat Benatar
Music production: Mode-F

THURSDAY 18/09

Max Mara
'Requiem Pour Un Con - Remix 91' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Laide, Jolie Laide' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Pink Elephants' by Mick Harvey; 'Histoire de Melody Nelson' by Serge Gainsbourg; 'Paris Quatre (Instrumental)' by Malcolm McLaren; 'Intoxicated Man' by Mick Harvey
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Emporio Armani
'Brutal Hearts (FlicFlac Radio Edit)' by Bedouin Soundclash; 'Universe Lovesong' by Laid Back; 'Neeve' by Woolfy vs Projections; 'What's My Name (Extended Disco Mix)' by The Kenneth Bager Experience & Sofie Grabol; 'Lion' by Pang!

Fendi
'Car Ambient #3' by Babe Rainbow; 'Minnesota Winter' by Babe Rainbow; 'Need This (12" Dub)' by Bok Bok Feat Trago; 'Boring Angel' by Oneohtrix Point Never; 'Cocco di Mamma' by Laura Betti
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Dsquared2
'Hideaway' by Kiesza; 'When A Fire Starts To Burn' by Disclosure; 'When A Fire Starts To Burn (C2C re-edit) by Disclosure; 'The Roof Is On Fire' by Rock Master Scott and the Dynamic Three; 'Children Of The Revolution' by Mark's; 'Boongie Drop (feat Jay Z & DJ Military' by Lenny Kravitz; 'Breathe & Stop (J Period Remix)' by J Period & Q-Tip; 'Partition' by Beyonce; 'All About That Bass' by Meghan Trainor; 'Flawless (MIA Partysquad remix)' by Beyonce; 'Wiggle' by Jason Derulo (feat Snoop Dogg); 'Flawless (MIA Partysquad remix)' by Beyonce

Prada
'Kiss Me (Maggot Brain)(Edit)' by Psychic TV & PTV3
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Ports 1961
'Down In The Traffic' by To Rococo Rot; 'Besides' by To Rococo Rot
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

FRIDAY 19/09

Sportmax
'Mambo' by Wally Badarou; 'Speechless' by Kruder & Dorfmeister; 'All Under One Roof Raving' by Jamie xx; 'Private Life (Dub version) by Grace Jones; 'Grillwalker' by Modeselektor
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Marco de Vincenzo
'We Share Our Mother's Health' by The Knife; 'Dreamy' by Go Dugong; 'Quad Boogie' by Populous; 'Fall' by Populous.
Music production: Stefani Libertini Protopapa

Missoni
'Les Ondes' by Motorbass; 'Force Marker' by Brian Eno; 'Shanzhai' by Fatima Al Qadiri
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Tod's
Speech from 'La Notte' by Michelangelo Antonioni
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Versace
'2020' by Suuns; 'All I Hear Is Drums' by Kasper Bjorke; 'Sex-O-Matic (Club)' by Melt; 'Video Fear' by Bitches From Queens

Philipp Plein
'Right Here, Right Now (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by Fat Boy Slim; 'Enjoy The Silence (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by Depeche Mode; 'Blue Monday (Orchestral Version by Thomas Roussel)' by New Order

SATURDAY 20/09

Bottega Veneta
'Triumphant Procession' by Tuxedomoon; 'Libertango' by London Concertante; 'Piazolla-Libertango' by Yo-Yo Ma; 'Libertango' by The Swingle Sisters; 'I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango)' by Grace Jones
Music production: Sebastien Perrin

Giorgio Armani
'Hazey' by Glass Animals; 'Open' by Rhye; 'Candy (Steve Moore Remix)' by Lower Dens; 'Save' by Frankey & Sandrino; 'Tell Her Today' by Tom Baxter; 'Wicked Game' by Queen of Hearts; 'Last Words' by Amirali; 'Electric Sunburst (Phoreski Remix)' by Coyote; 'Blow Up' by Kid Francescoli

Roberto Cavalli
'Trap' by Camp Claude; 'Lost and Found' by Camp Claude; 'Hurricanes' by Camp Claude
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Jil Sander
'Four Solos' by Ars Nova & Tamas Veto; 'Living Room Music IV' by Ars Nova & Tamas Veto; 'Fermi' by Pan Sonic; 'Shaker Loops' by Dan Smiley, Lowendusky, Judiyaba & Ridge String Quartet; 'Release, Depart' by Scanner; 'Spacings' by Takehisa Kosugi
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Emilio Pucci
'Hey Now (Tensnake Remix)' by London Grammar; 'Hey Now (Arty Remix)' by London Grammar; 'The Cloud Atlas Sextet (Elektro RMX JK)' by Tom Tykwer, Kristjan Jarvi & MDR Sinfonieorchester; 'Ultraviolence' by Lana del Rey; 'All The Days' by Haerts; 'Dreams (Axwell remix)' by Deep Dish feat Stevie Nicks; 'Andare' by Ludovico Einaudi
Music production: Jeremy Healy

SUNDAY 21/09

Marni
'Moonrise Kingdom' by L'Orchestra Numerique
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Salvatore Ferragamo
'Teenage Lightening 2005' by Coil; 'Say Aaahh Again' by Chicago Damn; 'Mars' by Caribou; 'Merta' by Picchio Dal Pozz

The airy stencil-cut paper screens that were suspended throughout Missoni's show space gave an inkling as to where Angela Missoni's head was for next spring. Billowing and light, this was one of the most loosened up, carefree collections she's delivered in years. The clothes weren't see-through, but they possessed a gauzy lightness that could only be achieved by Missoni's wizardly skill with creating knits as fine as cobwebs. Despite the new maxi-lengths, which came on everything from dresses and skirts to topcoats and trenches, nothing ever felt heavy. Missoni cut her clothes safely away from the contours of the body, allowing the lines to drape like slowly sloping tents on peasant skirts and dresses. New, too, was a happy palette of coral, peach, turquoise, iris and grape that reinforced the relaxed rhythms and sunny mood of summer.

A part from inebriating her guests with a scrumptious pre-show bowl of pure chocolate mousse, Angela Missoni also treated them to a read of her Missoni Moments newspaper, which gave a recipe for an orange fennel salad amongst other juicy tidbits. It wasn't just a gourmand afternoon at Missoni (although that is never a problem for us). The four-page mini sheet also gave a clue into the collection in a photograph of a shaggy carpet that informed the majority of the pattern work on the clothes this season. The broken puzzle piece configuration of the carpet, which featured oversized shards of white trimmed dusty colours, was a smooth move for Missoni this season. It gave a graphic edge to the clothes and looked especially alluring on long, full circle skirts, or on ribbed knit dresses that fell like a column to the floor. Missoni played with blocks of colour throughout, tossing in aqua astrakhan hues over coats, red ribbed cuffs on dresses, or egg yolk yellow curled lambs wool on the earflaps of wool caps. The house's signature zigs and zags came abstracted this season in bright mandarin and rust, while pops of citrus tones was scattered in slivers of plastic appliqués across dress fronts. The mood, however, was playfully boyish as cropped cargo pants, track pants, parkas and degrade crew neck sweaters all built towards an off-duty, sporty uniform. Soft, fleecy fabrics aided Missoni in achieving cosy silhouettes, and when they clung to the body such as on ribbed tube dresses or thermal style tops, they came in striking intarsia colour patterns.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans