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Best in shows: Wallpaper* picks S/S 2024’s standout looks

Jack Moss — Fri, 05 Jan 2024 13:00:09 +0000

January marks the beginning not only of a new year, but a new season in style – gone are the winter collections of last year, in are the S/S 2024 collections, and with them the promise of brighter days ahead.

As part of Wallpaper’s Design Awards 2024 issue, we select the winning men’s and womenswear collections of S/S 2024 – and their standout looks – which will define a season of dressing ahead. These span Sabato de Sarno’s sensual new vision for Gucci (the designer called it a ’story of richness and lust... of sweat, dancing and singing’, and is pictured top left), the eclectic oppositions of Dries Van Noten’s womenswear, and Maximilian Davis’ expertly reduced Ferragamo tailoring.

Winning collections came too from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons at Prada, where they reckoned with beauty and craft, the sinuous lines of Kim Jones’ Fendi, or Matthieu Blazy’s extraordinary riffs on the quotidien at Bottega Veneta (here encapsulated his version of a working man’s tie, recrafted in leather). Or Lucie and Luke Meier’s gently oversized men’s Jil Sander tailoring, adorned with glimmering crystal broaches (pictured top right).

The various looks are captured by London-based photographer Daisy Walker, and styled by Wallpaper* fashion and style director Jason Hughes.

The standout looks of S/S 2024, selected by Wallpaper*

Courrèges

Jacket, £1,700, by Courrèges. Earrings, price on request, by Bottega Veneta (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Dolce & Gabbana

Jacket, £3,000; shirt, £1,100; trousers, £1,200, all by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, £870, by Prada (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Dries Van Noten

Jacket, £1,295; bra, £175; skirt, £1,425, all by Dries Van Noten (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Acne Studios

Dress, price on request, by Acne Studios. Earrings, price on request, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Shoes, £1,050, by Alaïa. Gloves, £797, by Ines. Tights, £35, by Wolford (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Hermès

Top and skirt (part of a modular dress), £2,800, by Hermès. Shoes, price on request, by Bottega Veneta. Tights, £25, by Falke. ‘Ruskin’ fabric in Eucalyptus, £80 per m, by Romo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Wooyoungmi

Jacket, £600; jacket (underneath), price on request; trousers, £320, all by Wooyoungmi. Necklace, £225, by Completedworks. ‘Mart’ armchair, from £11,299, by Antonio Citterio, for B&B Italia, from Aram (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Ferragamo

Jacket, £1,815; trousers, £1,230; shoes, price on request, all by Ferragamo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello

Dress, £3,710; earrings, price on request, both by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Shoes, price on request, by Bottega Veneta. ‘Ruskin’ fabric in Eucalyptus, £80 per m, by Romo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Givenchy

Jacket, €3,400; top, €365; trousers, €990, all by Givenchy. Shoes, £870, by Prada (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Alexander McQueen

Jacket, £2,900; trousers, £980; earrings, £850, all by Alexander McQueen. ‘Grand Relax’ armchair, from £7,320, by Antonio Citterio, for Vitra, from Aram (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Carven

Jacket, price on request, by Carven. Earrings, price on request, by Bottega Veneta. ‘Mart’ armchair, from £11,299, by Antonio Citterio, for B&B Italia, from Aram (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Isabel Marant

Jumpsuit, £990, by Isabel Marant. Shoes, price on request, by Ferragamo. ‘Ruskin’ fabric in Eucalyptus, £80 per m, by Romo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Bottega Veneta

Jacket; shirt; tie; trousers, all price on request, by Bottega Veneta (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Miu Miu

Top, £1,410; skirt, £2,350, both by Miu Miu. Shoes, price on request, by Prada. Bodysuit, £195; tights, £50, both by Wolford (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Paul Smith

Jacket, £1,250; top, £225; trousers, £410, all by Paul Smith. Sunglasses, £375, by Bottega Veneta. ‘Grand Relax’ armchair, from £7,320, by Antonio Citterio, for Vitra, from Aram (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Fendi

Top, £1,720; skirt, £4,600, both by Fendi. Earrings, price on request, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Dior

Top, £1,200; skirt, £830, both by Dior. Shoes, £1,050, by Alaïa. ‘Ruskin’ fabric in Eucalyptus, £80 per m, by Romo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Prada

Top; shorts; skirt; shoes, all price on request, by Prada (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Balenciaga

Jacket, €8,000; dress, €2,500, both by Balenciaga. ‘Mart’ armchair, from £11,299, by Antonio Citterio,for B&B Italia, from Aram (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Marni

Top, £595; skirt, £695, both by Marni. Shoes, £870, by Prada. Socks, £38, by Pantherella. ‘Ruskin’ fabric in Eucalyptus, £80 per m, by Romo (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Valentino

Coat, £3,250; shirt, £690, both by Valentino. Tie, £190, by Valentino Garavani (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Loewe

Top, £825; trousers, £875, both by Loewe. Earrings, price on request, by Bottega Veneta. Gloves, £610; shoes, £1,050, both by Alaïa (Image credit: Photography by Daisy Walker, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Models: Kerolyn Soares at IMG, Aaron Shandel at Wilhelmina. Casting: Ikki Casting at The Art Board. Hair: Adam Garland using Authentic Beauty Concept. Make-up: Jo Banach using Chanel Les Beiges Winter Glow and No.1 de Chanel Red Camellia Exfoliating Mask. Interiors: Olly Mason. Set build: London Art Makers. Photography assistants: Chloe Yates, Zillah Rauter. Fashion assistants: Kris Bergfeldt, Samela Gjozi. Hair assistant: Annabella Hudgell. Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson. Post-production: Lasso Studio.

A version of this article appears in the February 2024 issue of Wallpaper* – dedicated to the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2024 – available in print from 4 January, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today

Net-a-porter’s Animal Crossing island wins Best Escape From Reality: Wallpaper* Design Awards 2021

Laura Hawkins — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 04:34:43 +0000

In March last year, Nintendo launched the perfect and perfectly timed gaming antidote to long-term confinement. Animal Crossing: New Horizons, the latest iteration of the social simulation video game that first appeared in 2001, allows players to design their own island paradise, and for fashion fans, the game provides an unexpected sartorial escape. Players can customise their avatars, and a host of visual artists on Instagram have responded with wardrobe wizardry, designing virtual catwalk looks inspired by brands such as Prada, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. There was even a staging of the game’s first fashion show, with runway looks inspired by Paco Rabanne and Craig Green, and set to a soundtrack created by soundscape expert Michel Gaubert.

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So we were beyond excited when, in November, Animal Crossing gained a Net-a-Porter island, designed in collaboration with the luxury fashion e-tailer, alongside photographer Kara Chung, who runs Instagram account @animalcrossingfashionarchive, and creative agency WeSuperseed. Visitors to Net-a-Porter island can stroll along to an outpost of the Able Sisters’ boutique and outfit themselves in virtual looks inspired by an exclusive Isabel Marant capsule collection, before taking a stylish selfie on their NookPhone. So, as physical travel is still largely off the cards, for our next escape, we’re booking a flight on Dodo Airlines bound for Net-a-Porter island, which also boasts a private beach, picnic area, café, hot spring bath, flower garden, gym and meditation area. We might not come back.

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IRL to URL: S/S 2021’s most innovative show presentations

Louis Vuitton S/S 2021

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A room with a view: fashion designers' line of sight

Laura Hawkins — Thu, 09 Apr 2020 09:43:32 +0000

Over the last month, we’ve transitioned to viewing the world from a smaller viewfinder. As the perspective of our new parameters has shifted, so we’ve found uplift in everyday domestic details or striking beauty in the natural world, now seen largely through our windows. As fashion designers have acclimatised to this new, four wall-defined way of life, from Beijing to Berlin, London to Longiano, we’ve invited those within our creative community to document by hand what they can see from their work desk or window. Here we present our rooms with a view.

Manolo Blahnik, Bath

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‘The sky was blue almost Mediterranean,’ says the footwear behemoth of the lush garden view from his bedroom window.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, womenswear artistic director Dior, Rome

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A unifying Italian flag hangs from the window of Chiuri's home in Italy's capital.

Michael Halpern, London

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Jars of citrus fruits and bowls of fiery chillis sit on the colour-inclined womenswear designer's work desk.

Margaret Howell, Suffolk

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‘One drawing is my sheep’s trough with planted tall, reed grass. The other is my hazelnut tree, which planted itself by seed many years ago. I drew this just as it’s new leaves are coming out. At least nature is carrying on as normal' – MH.

Bryan Conway, design director Tiger of Sweden, Stockholm

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Titled ‘Spring in Sweden,' Conway's sketch offers a tree-lined street scene in the country's capital.

Marco de Vincenzo, Rome

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From his window, the womenswear designer can see the splendid baroque architecture of Rome.

Massimo Giorgetti, founder MSGM, Milan

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Plant-festooned balconies greet Giorgetti as he looks across Milan from his apartment.

Eudon Choi, London

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From the view of his kitchen table, the womenswear designer sees a selection of sculptures and stacks of his husband's copies of Wallpaper*.

Karl Templer, artistic director Ports 1961, London

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A green garden view greets the artistic director from his work desk in London.

Pierre Hardy, Paris

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The window view through the accessories and jewellery aficionados wood panelled apartment reveals the splendour of the River Seine.

Thom Browne, New York

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The designer presents an abstract view from his Central Park West location.

Petar Petrov, Vienna

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Mannequins and a cutting table make up the designer's view across his mid-century apartment and live-in studio.

Isabel Marant, Paris

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Natural beauty greets the progenitor of Parisian chic from her window.

Samuel Ross, founder A-Cold-Wall*, London

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The boundary-pushing menswear designer shares a domestic scene from the London-based home he shares with his family.

Maria Skappel-Holzweiler, head of design Holzweiler, Oslo

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For the head of design of the family run, Norwegian brand, respite comes in watching her children painting Easter eggs, outside in a pergola.

Sean Suen, Beijing

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The menswear designer, who has been on lockdown since late January, shares a domestic scene in pencil and coloured wax crayon.

Lorraine Acornley, creative director Begg & Co, Hertfordshire

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Quick daily observational sketches of a plant pot on Acornley's desk, ‘explore line and materials'.

Giuseppe Zanotti, Longiano

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The Italian footwear behemoth is currently residing in his home in Longiano, Emilia-Romagna, a short distance from the brand's factory.

Daniel Rosenberry, artistic director Schiaparelli, New York

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‘My window, my desk, my things and me' – DR.

Tammy Kane, co-founder and creative director Christopher Kane, London

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A view of nature across a conservatory has been imagined using oil on canvas and oil crayon.

Albert Kriemler, creative director Akris, St Gallen

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Lines from First Suprematist Standing Poem (1965), by writer, visual artist and gardener Ian Hamilton Finlay, greet Kriemler.

Giuseppe Marretta, menswear design director, Pringle of Scotland, London

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Exhibition posters and verdant plant life offer visual distraction for the menswear designer.

MM6 design collective, MM6, Paris

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The eclectic collective serve up a symbolic sketch inspired by the inversion of social structures. ‘Even so, we are still singing,' they add.

Cecilie Bahnsen, Copenhagen

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A huge Scots pine tree stands outside Bahnsen's window in the Danish capital.

Erdem Moralıoğlu, London

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A sketch of rooftops from Moralıoğlu's window sits amongst ready-to-wear illustrations and swatches of fabric.

Alessandro Sartori, artistic director Ermenegildo Zegna, Milan

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An abstract artwork, cosy chair and Cire Trudon candles all make up Sartori's domestic set up.

Roksanda Ilinčić, London

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Linck Ceramics vases – from a curated Matchesfashion collection with Wallpaper's Picky Nicky – stand next to a window plastered with a community-focused NHS poster.

Molly Molloy, co-founder Colville, Milan

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‘I look out on to a courtyard of bright yellow apartments and have a balcony full of tropical plants. When the sun is out I have the windows open, you can hear the clattering of plates at lunch time and the smell of amazing Italian dishes cooking.' – MM

Ramesh Nair, artistic director Moynat, Paris

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Stacks of artist monographs and a feline friend sit on Nair's busy work desk.

Feng Chen Wang, Shanghai

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Shanghai's built up skyline forms the backdrop to the menswear designer's studio space.

Gherardo Felloni, creative director Roger Vivier, Isola del Giglio

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A burnt sun setting over the ocean greets the footwear designer from his island home.

Alexandre Mattiussi, founder AMI, Paris

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A window view completely free of buildings offers the natural gift of a clear blue sky.

Isabel Marant A/W 2018

Laura Hawkins — Fri, 02 Mar 2018 05:32:11 +0000

Moodboard: there was a rollicking sense of rodeo on Marant’s A/W 2018 catwalk, as the designer presented a men’s and women’s collection chock-a-block with fringing, leather, Navajo prints and shearling. These are dressing codes essential to the chic Parisenne – a wardrobe that Marant has been integral in cultivating, and for A/W 2018 she amped up the Western flair, with models strutting to a soundtrack of Dolly Parton and country and western riffs, mixing rodeo style with glamorous ruched party dressing, revealing swathes of leg and a flash of thigh.

Best in show: There were chic striped blanket capes, skinny snakeskin trousers, pretty smock dresses and shearling coats with patterns the shape of graphic windmills or origami stars.

Finishing touches: From Paco Rabanne to Chloé, Parisian brands have been making a case for the cowboy boot, and Marant offered slouchy thigh-high styles, paired with fringed clutches, studded belts and bejewelled hoop earrings.

Isabel Marant A/W 2018. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2017 womenswear editor's picks

Jack Moss — Wed, 05 Oct 2016 12:08:20 +0000

Giambattista Valli: Giambattista Valli had his society swans in raptures yet again as the Roman-born Paris-based designer delivered another collection in honour of high-end off-duty pleasures. His fil rouge this season was a delicate floral print that he wound around goddess gowns as well as on short and sassy skirts and boxy tops. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Delfina Delettrez: Delfina Delettrez staged a surrealist exhibition for her new collection. Each little cabinet in the room featured a piece of jewellery through which a string of colored drops of liquid floated up through via invisible routes (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

French-born, London-based contemporary artist Camille Walala created a strikingly geometric window installation at Emporio Armani’s newly refurbished Paris boutique in Saint-Germain that stayed true to her eye for pop colours and shapes (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Esteban Cortazar: Memories of the Miami South Beach surfer scene, a journey through India and the work of multimedia artist Isa Genzken were the starting point for Esteban Cortazar’s collection. Draped satin, graphic lines, silver sequins and washed denim came together effortlessly in a collection where traditional garments converse with fitted sportswear. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Maison Rabih Kayrouz: The elegant collection of Maison Rabih Kayrouz came to life in an emotional contemporary dance performance. The ballerinas from the Paris Opera Ballet glided through Kayrouz’ atelier space wearing minimalis, crisp and colourful garments that included Kayrouz’ signature caftan (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Tsatsas: This season, Tsatsas has added a new design to their bag family. Named Re other, this versatile design can be reversed, which brings the two inside compartments to the outer. The strap can be worn both long and short (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Jupe by Jackie: Created by Jackie Villevoy, the Dutch designer behind the embroideries of Rei Kawakubo’s women’s ready-to-wear line Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons, Jupe by Jackie presented a collection with both boyish characteristics and feminine shapes. The different embroideries on the garments are all done by hand and were created in collaboration with a team of artisans based in India (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Charlotte Chesnais: Charlotte Chesnais, known for her letting jewellery spiral all around the human body, presented a selection of new pieces that can be worn in multiple ways. Her fine jewellery collection has expanded, now offering the Saturn earring in new sizes (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Paul Andrew: Colours of the Scandinavian coast and the Danish mid-century design movement were the source of inspiration for Paul Andrew. It shone through in basket-weave uppers and streamlined silhouettes on sculptural cedarwood block heels (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mugler: Designer David Koma took his audience into a sensual sculptural underwater world. Liquid-like silks and sequins showed slashes of skin while athletic looks had coral colours shining through the monochrome outer layers. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Pallas: At Pallas, the expert female tuxedo design duo, Daniel Pallas and Véronique Bousquet, showed beautiful suiting with an asymmetrical edge. A waistcoat that was full length only on one side, to wear as a top over trousers or a skirt, was a standout piece: glamorous and severe at the same time (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Vivienne Westwood: For Spring 2017 Vivienne Westwood’s partner Andreas Kronthaler showed a mediterranean inspired eclectic collection of asymmetric, draped garments, powerful suits and metallic bodysuits. All with a hint of Westwood punk (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Yohji Yamamoto: Tie me up, tie me down. Our favourite man of Japanese minimalism took his standard palette of deep dark black and twisted it up, off and around the body, using just the occasional pop of white and drip of blood red to accentuate his point. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Eddie Borgo: Eddie Borgo’s appreciation for architecture and geometric shapes shone through in a collection that was based on circles. Whether it was a new interpretation of his safety chain choker or the form of a front-facing hoop, each of Borgo’s modern designs is refined by using heritage fine jewelry techniques (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

A.P.C.: Founder of the brand Jean Touitou opened the presentation with a quote by French philosopher Gaston Bachelard: ’Simplicity is the result of a very long simplification process.’ As he believes he has done nothing but that for the past 30 years. In celebration of simplicity done well, models danced on and off stage in true A.P.C. attire (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Comme des Garçons: The Comme des Garçons show was Rei Kawakubo at her purest. The black, red and signature polka-dotted garments became sculptural shapes in which the models’ bodies were almost invisible (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Undercover: Jun Takahashi pulled out more than just one jazz note for his musically inflected spring collection. A part from the instruments that were literally patched over leather pants and bomber jackets, Takahashi borrowed the poor boy hats and slouchy silhouettes from the 1920s to create his own brand of fashion haberdashery. . (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Laurence Dacade: Looking for a balance between femininity and masculinity Laurence Dacade presented a collection of powerful platforms and sandals featuring her signature buckles while other design sported graphic floral appliqués (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Chalayan: Hussein Chalayan addressed the pitfalls of modern London life in room tone, his S/S 2017 collection that revolved around a series of studies on digital data, social networks and ambition. Sunglasses that measure stress levels through an Intel-developed module, registered brain waves, heart rate and respiration – these emotions were in turn visualised and projected via a belt – ingenuous and conceptual, as is the Chalayan way. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Delvaux: Belgian leather goods house Delvaux is on an innovative roll and are offering more new versions of its classics than ever. To mention a few: an ivory Brilliant bag receives a psychedelic update with rainbow-coloured compartments; and a Tempête gets a Rorschach-like indigo pattern stencilled on (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Pierre Hardy x Apartamento: Atelier Collection: When Pierre Hardy and Apartamento magazine collaborate, the result cannot be other than colourful and conceptual. Cut-outs abounded on artful low and high-heeled sandals, that were shown alongside their lasts in the Paris showroom presentation (Image credit: Abdelwaheb Didi)

Loewe: Jonathan Anderson was one of the top shows of Paris fashion week – a tour de force that combined the Loewe’s extraordinary craftsmanship with Anderson’s wildly creative imagination. Here is one special look inside the Spanish brand’s showroom (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Roger Vivier: The fresh news at Roger Vivier is the debut of the French brand’s Viv’ Cavas bag and a podium-heel sandal (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Balmain: Olivier Rousteing decided to spruce up the glamour for this S/S 2017 runway show at Hôtel Potocki. He arranged tropical banana plants and lianes all along the chandeliers, and opened with khaki looks that were distinctly safari (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Moynat: The creative director at Moynat, Ramesh Nair, is more than enthusiastic about the techniques the brand employs to create its technically high-quality bags. From the Vanity bag, box-shaped and perfectly formed thanks to the use of an angle stitch, to the new Gabrielle bag, all of the leathers have a shine to them that comes simply from buffing – no added chemicals to be found here (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Isabel Marant: Zig-zagging down the Cour d’Honneur of the Palais-Royal, models with barely-there make-up showed both Isabel Marant’s girly and boyish side. Florals and frills made up a large part of the looks, but tomboyish drawstring printed jackets and Chambray jumpsuits with rounded shoulders and tightly strapped in waists balanced it out. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Dice Kayek: Sister duo Ece and Ayşe Ege popped-up in Paris this season with a minimal white showroom spread over two floors that exhibited their signature structured and sculpted garments. Highlighting their best pieces, in combination with jewellery encased in glass boxes, the project encapsulated the Dice Kayek vision: clean cut, bold and elegant (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Vionnet: Goga Ashkenazi urged her team out on the runway at the finale of her Vionnet show, and clad in white atelier coats they shyly stepped forward. They surely had put a lot of hours in on the pleated, Grecian style dresses, but also proposed novel ideas such as the combination of jean Bermuda shorts with a flowing multilayered and coloured cape, and interesting use of climbing rope. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Rochas: Pairing dreamy pleated and multi-layered dresses with a fast-paced soundtrack, Alessandro Dell’Acqua projected an insouciant vibe onto his romantic Rochas girl. Long knitted gloves, cardigans and boxy t-shirts styled with these dramatic frocks and layered peplums underlined that nonchalant feeling. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Hermès: Set in the grounds of the National Marine Museum, it was only fitting that Hermès presented its S/S 2017 collection artfully placed on heaps of beachy sand. Sneakers in finely woven silk were a feat in pristine handwork, as were the woven calfskin sandals. Refreshing in a ‘why did no-one think of this before’ kind of way: Hermès new Verrou Chaîne bag (pictured), a classically shaped shoulder bag with an inspired fastening feature borrowed from door locks on horses’ stables (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Atlein: Only in his second season, Antonin Tron, the French, Antwerp-trained designer behind Atlein held a discreet but impactful private showing in Paris. Tron’s relaxed draped dresses made of different types of jersey - from jacquard to liquid - understand the female form and are borne out of a concern with comfort and movement. Atlein’s colour palette referenced the rusty red soil and bold skies of Central Africa - subtle but instantly distinctive (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Jacquemus: Simon Porte Jacquemus often longs for his Mediterranean roots and this collection was a firm reminder of that. The silhouettes he sent down the runway for S/S 2017 were precisely cut reinterpretations of bolero costume, paneled and pleated to wild angles, without losing a classical touch of dramatic proportion. (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Y Project: When Glenn Martens took the reins of Y/Project, he started off gender neutral. Slowly but surely, his romantic decadent side is kicking in, and you can take the tight velvet dresses, nude corsets, glitter heels and pearls as proof of that. But he threw all these elements into a surprising mix that did not feel precious at all – rather it felt like an intuitive pre-party brainwave (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Nehera: It’s clear that Nehera takes its serene aesthetic of experimental tailoring seriously. To the sound of percussion from xylophones models wore abstracted versions of the instruments as necklaces and earrings with sliced-open beige seersucker jackets that reappeared in navy; trench coats deconstructed to the extreme, revealing open sleeves and backs; and tiered voluminous dresses that fell so heavily the seams hung askew (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Aalto: In Espace Commines’ sunlit space, models mathematically walked the four sides of a patterned patchwork felted floor. Fluid, wide-legged suits in ruby, khaki and brown hounds tooth were an overarching idea in this show, but many other ideas passed in revue, such as leather sunhats with pearl strings and a stellar blue loose fitting trouser suit layered with a distressed and embellished oversized jean jacket (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Isabel Marant A/W 2016

Jack Moss — Sat, 05 Mar 2016 11:11:09 +0000

Mood board: It was back to the 1980s with a skintight bang at Isabelle Marant, where the models wore teeny-weeny mini skirts, lots of leather, line-backer shoulder pieces and enough permed hair and nasty gal fishnet stockings to get them through the door of the Palladium for at least a full year.

Best in show: Despite the dubious starting point, this show had plenty of catnip for Marant’s voracious fashion consumers. The oversized mannish coats looked positively edible over the bun-skimming dresses while novelty knitwear such as punk-like fisherman’s sweaters, while holed sweaters worn with patent leather pencil skirts are going to be next season’s big hits.

Finishing touches: Has there ever been a show where Marant didn’t deliver the new shoe of the season? Come autumn, it’s going to be a flat, creeper-like pointed toe bootie crowned with rocker buckles and a vamp covered with animal print pony skin. It sounds intimidating but was in fact, the perfect, low maintenance accompaniment to the fancy tulle and shine factor happening on the clothes.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Isabel Marant S/S 2016

JJ Martin — Sat, 03 Oct 2015 10:05:13 +0000

Mood board: No matter what she does, French designer Isabel Marant’s fingers remain fixed on the pulse of the street.This season she delivered a rapper’s delight of urban-friendly parachute trousers mixed up with the heavy, carpet-like textiles one finds in the spicy markets of Moroccan.

Best in show: Stripes are shaping up to be big for fall and Marant’s take on the theme worked beautifully in her thick, exotic textiles. Oversized, cinch-waist striped pants looked great with floaty nylon anoraks while striped kaftans came dusted with minimal embroidered edges for easy-going day to evening wear.

Finishing touches: Marant pulled out the ropes for her coveted footwear, lacing up flat or high block heeled sandals with acres of thick, naval-esque rope.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans; Umberto Fratini)

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans; Umberto Fratini

Isabel Marant A/W 2015

JJ Martin — Sat, 07 Mar 2015 12:52:03 +0000

Mood board: Time to get on a diet, girls! Isabel Marant’s silhouettes for next fall — extremely short, or so tight that they require a liberal body oiling — are not going to give an inch. Most pieces worked around Marant’s new exaggerated high-waisted silhouette, like unforgiving stovepipe wool pants or micro mini skirts that require a lean set of mean legs.
Best in show: Apart from a sailor motif, Marant also worked a new ikat angle for fall. The best use of these ethnic textiles were on oversized, sporty silhouettes like flared collar military and pea-cut wool coats.

Finishing touches: Marant’s footwear always creates a seasonal frenzy. This season the new boot is a midcalf bootie or over the knee version with thigh guards, both of which come clamped with oversized silver military buttons.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

The soundtrack to Paris Fashion Week’s S/S 2015 womenswear shows

Jack Moss — Wed, 19 Nov 2014 06:05:19 +0000

Fashion week, these days, is about much more than just the collections. Showmanship is the name of game, and in the meticulously executed sartorial extravaganzas, the sound space is an element that no producer or designer can afford to overlook. Music royalty - past, present and future - is enlisted to ensure a full assault on the senses. Here, we bring you Paris Fashion Week's catwalk mega mix from the S/S 2015 womenwear collections.

WEDNESDAY 24/09

Dries Van Noten
'Strange Entity' by Max Colombie AKA Oscar And The Wolf, in collaboration with Sem Jan

THURSDAY 25/09

Roland Mouret
'Don't Go' by Izzy Lindqwister; 'Memorabilia' by Soft Cell; 'New Dorp. New York' by SBTRKT (feat Ezra Koenig); 'La Poupee Qui Fait' by Serge Gainsbourg
Music production: Nano de Clausel

Rick Owens
'Piano Concerto 1, Preludium' by Wojciech Kilar
Music production: Jeff Judd

FRIDAY 26/09

Loewe
'Imagin' by Dark Sky; 'Music for 18 Musicians Section 4' by Steve Reich; 'Piano Phase' by Steve Reich; 'Music for 18 Musicians Section 5' by Steve Reich
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Dior
'Ouverture' by Koudlam; 'Loss (Regis Version)' by Ike Yard; 'The Magnificent Bukkake (1756-1785)' by Koudlam; 'Shake' by Cowboy Rhythmbox
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Isabel Marant
'New Dorp. New York' by SBTRKT (feat Ezra Koenig); 'Pump Me Up' by Trouble Funk; 'Electrodub' by Daniele Baldelli; 'Feel Up' by Grace Jones; 'New Dorp. New York' by SBTRKT (feat Ezra Koenig)

Maison Martin Margiela
'Assassin de la Police' by Cut Killer; 'Sweet Harmony' by The Beloved

SATURDAY 27/09

Haider Ackermann
'One Space' by Senjan Jansen

SUNDAY 28/09

Kenzo
Exclusive mix by Disclosure

Céline
'This Woman's Work' by Kate Bush; 'Mishima / Closing' by Philip Glass; 'Need This (Radio Mix)' by Bok Bok & Tom Trago; 'In The Upper Room Dance No. 1' by Philip Glass; 'Vector' by Bok Bok & Tom Trago

Chloé
'Strangers'; 'Numb'; 'Sour Times' all by Portishead

Akris
'Says' Composed and performed by Nils Frahm

Givenchy
'Radioactivity' by Kraftwerk; 'Just A Clutch' by The Martinez Brothers; 'Blondee' by The Martinez Brothers

MONDAY 29/09

Stella McCartney
'Imprint' by Must Die feat. Tkay Maidza; 'Bugatti' by Tiga; 'Kero Kero Bonito' by Kero Kero Bonito; 'Jane' by Girlpool; 'The Rain That Never Came' by Apache Sun
Music production: Tony Farsides

Wunderkind
'Drown (Bonus Track)' by EMA; 'Rollin' & Tumblin'' by Kyoka; 'Ring Of Fire' by Wall Of Voodoo; 'Shanghai Freeway' by Fatima Al Qadiri; 'Locust' by &ME; 'In A Landscape (Solo Piano)' by John Cage & Sylvano Bussotti
Music production: Javier Peral

Saint Laurent
'1,2,3' by Aleide
Original song written and recorded by Aleide

TUESDAY 30/09

Chanel
'I'm Not Scared' by The Pet Shop Boys; 'Transperu' by Koudlam; 'Khan' by E-Versions
Music production: Michel Gaubert

Valentino
'Body Double' by Pino Donaggio; 'Metti Una Sera A Cena' by Ennio Morricone & Edda Dell'Orso; 'Outside Looking' by Michael Nyman; 'Metti Una Sera A Cena' by Ennio Morricone and Edda Dell'Orso

Alexander McQueen
'Kodama' by Haruomi Hosono (from the O.S.T. Tales of Genji); 'Red Sex' by Vessel; 'Fairy Link' by Susumu Yokota; 'Drowned In Water And Light' by Vessel; 'Shambala Tsushin' by Haruomi Hosono and the Yellow Magic Band; 'Soul Love' by David Bowie
Music production: John Gosling

WEDNESDAY 01/10

Louis Vuitton
'The Sound Of Silence' by Simon and Garfunkel
Music production: Leopold Ross and Michel Gaubert

Moncler Gamme Rouge
'Auto Music 2' by Brian Reitzell; 'Home: "Ruitor"' by Richard Pinhas; 'Il Sogno Di Una Cosa' by Kreidler; 'Prismatic Reflections' by Bitchin Bajas
Music production: Frédéric Sanchez

Miu Miu
'Female Trouble' by Melvin & Redd Kross; 'Past, Present and Future' by the Shangri-Las; 'Past, Present and Future' by Giddle & Boyd; 'Piano Sonata no 2: Moonlight' by Beethoven; '----S' by Moon Relay; '///////L' by Moon Relay; 'Female Trouble' by Divine

The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015

Alice Shaughnessy — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 13:33:49 +0000

Stella McCartney: Time will tell if Stella McCartney and Eugene Souleiman can bring crimping back into fashion, but a few carefully placed strips provided a note of interest in an otherwise paired-back look that was dominated by strong, shaped brows (Image credit: press)

Dries Van Noten: Another bohemian girl, but not quite a rebel – the only 'makeup' at Van Noten's show this season was a 'lip ring', painted onto each girl by Peter Phillips. Sam McKnight also left the hair direction totally natural, with locks worn long and loose in a carefree way (Image credit: press)

Chloé: This season's envy-inducing hair styling was once again sculpted by Eugeine Soulemain: think thick, healthy and glossy. Lucia Pieroni left the make-up totally natural, as was the style of this show (Image credit: press)

Acne Studios: There was a subtly contoured tonal make-up look at Acne, defined by strong, groomed brows. Squeaky clean hair was brushed back and set away from the face (Image credit: press)

Balmain: Olivier Rousteing refers to his legions of supporters as the Balmain Army, and with that image in mind this spring show's grooming was strong yet sensual. Hair was slicked back away from the face for minimal fuss. Make-up, while usually minimal at Balmain, was bronzed, with a silvery sheen on the cheekbones to catch the light (Image credit: press)

Akris: 'Versatile' and 'refined' were two key moods offered by Akris creative director Albert Kriemler from which Guido Palau and Diane Kendal created the show's grooming brief. Models' hair was slicked back and lifted up, held in place by visors created by Stephen Jones Millinery. Make-up was minimal, with curled eyelashes, strong brows and natural lips (Image credit: press)

Dior: Peter Phillips also continued the graphic eyeliner trend seen in Milan, shown here at Dior in a fresh baby pink. The rest of the face was left totally natural – and hair as well, combed in a centre parting and brushed through (Image credit: press)

Haider Ackermann: The soft pinks of Ackermann's collection were recreated in both the hair and make-up direction. A vivid coral shadow was used all over the eyes – but to keep it fresh, white was used on the inner rim and corners to liven the eye. Extremely short, cropped wigs with a subtle rinse of pink were put on each girl. Eyebrows were bleached to bring unity of colour to the face (Image credit: press)

Hermès: Thick, glossy hair. Clean, fresh and lightly contoured skin. The Hermès woman is into minimal make-up and haircare; her grooming focus instead placed on maintaining beautiful skin. Subtle bronzing powder and a light balm on the lips offered all the gloss she needs (Image credit: press)

Kenzo: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon offered a spider diagram to explain their S/S 2015 collection in lieu of a formal press release. Several catch words could easily have be applied to the hair and make-up: graphic, clean, lightness, purity – all shown here with sculptural, windswept hair, fringes pushed forward over the face. Make-up was almost icy, with a silvery highlight on the eyes and lips (Image credit: press)

Isabel Marant: Unfussy hair and very minimal make-up have always been signatures of the Isabel Marant look, whose brand of cool Parisian chic is being rapidly exported around the globe to huge success. This season's minimal grooming supported this laid-back mission (Image credit: press)

Lanvin: The dream team of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau created a make-up look at Lanvin, which enhanced the natural beauty of several iconic faces, Amber Valetta among them. The key feature was a strong, groomed brow and some subtle countouring around the eye. Otherwise the skin was fresh and glowing. Hair was pulled away from the face into soft chignons and secured with a golden comb (Image credit: press)

Loewe: For his first womenswear outing at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented a collection 'in which lightness pervades'. To that end, his models' faces didn't fight for attention with the clothes – even eyebrows were bleached to prevent distraction. Hair was centrally parted and worn loose but smoothed down to a subtly shiny finish (Image credit: press)

Alexander McQueen: Though Japan provides a wealth of beauty inspiration each season, this tends to come from the arresting make-up of Geishas than the samurai look. But here Guido pulled back the hair into a tight chinon, using plenty of gel to draw it away from the ghostly white faces, and let a black-lacquer frame provide a stark contrast for the make-up (Image credit: press)

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Another iteration of minimal beauty – the Moncler girl walked down a runway displaying a rippling water projection. With that in mind, the look created was fresh and dewy with wet hair left to air-dry slightly, leaving a natural wave. Skin got a smattering of fresh, pink blush and shimmering highlighter (Image credit: press)

Rick Owens: With nearly the entire collection produced in tulle, this was a more delicate Rick Owens woman than we've seen in previous seasons. Owens' desire to reflect on the balance between 'hard newness and classical grace' resulted in a pale, translucent make-up base by Lucia Pieroni to bring an otherworldly quality to the skin. To complement, Luigi Murenu created a lived-in hair style (Image credit: press)

Rochas: Spidery eyelashes and pastel eyeshadow were seen again at Rochas, as well as hair with a natural side parting, tied in a loose, low ponytail (Image credit: press)

Sacai: Hair and make-up were on the same page at Sacai. Bleached brows were key, while the focus was otherwise on perfect skin. Hair was left long and loose with artfully placed wisps left to fall over the face to avoid looking too polished (Image credit: press)

Roland Mouret: A low, loose ponytail provided minimal distraction from the star of the show: a bright orange lip applied and then gently blotted, so the intensity of colour remained but the application was softened – an easy way to introduce colour in the warmer months (Image credit: press)

Sonia Rykiel: Like Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel is strongly associated with the ideal of Parisian beauty. Here, we saw her in rock'n'roll mode. Long, loose, tousled hair was paired with a smudgy, lived-in smokey eye (Image credit: press)

Jean Paul Gaultier: For his last-ever ready-to-wear show, Jean Paul Gaultier went out with a bang – no minimal make-up here. His showgirls weren't afraid of sporting a bold red lip and a bright blue eye (Image credit: press)

Vionnet: The French house presented the most severe example of this season's ponytail, worn high on the head and tightly tied with a thick white band. This was balanced by a softly contoured face, which saw brows brushed skywards towards models' hairlines (Image credit: press)

Valentino: Though the collection may have been rooted in more earthly delights (Rome and the Grand Tour were listed as inspirations), the show's beauty direction had an otherworldly quality, recalling that mythological siren the mermaid. Softly waved hair was half pulled back around the head and decorated with golden jewels. Dewy skin was paired with a soft pink lip and delicate metallic eyes (Image credit: press)

Wunderkind: This season's Wunderkind collection focused on 'transcience and life as an absurd and surrealistic dream'. This surrealism was interpreted in the make-up via a doll-like beauty with a heavy application of rusty red blush and lipstick, balanced by fresh skin. Hair was covered by cropped wigs cut into short, choppy sections (Image credit: press)

Isabel Marant S/S 2015

JJ Martin — Sat, 27 Sep 2014 05:52:49 +0000

The most noteworthy piece of news to arise from Isabel Marant’s latest show was the complete absence of denim on the runway. This is a designer who has mined that particular fabric so frequently and with so much panache that she has become the target of rip-offs from New York to New Delhi. But Marant was apparently over her cool jeans this season, instead moving into a more sophisticated realm of leisurely dressing. She used pleating and fringing as her new trends du jour and delved into these more craft-minded techniques with enthusiasm. Knife pleats worked their way into micro mini skirts and heavy duty gladiator belts that cinched newly proper tailored jackets. Fringe found its way onto leather skirts and later morphed into tassels on woven poncho tops, and vests covered in shaggy frills. The concept hit its climax with a fabulous short skirt crafted from black raffia worn with a demure long sleeve black knit top. This being a Marant show, however, the mood stayed casual with a pair of thong-front, ankle-cuff black gladiator sandals that will, no doubt, set the next way of copycats working on overdrive.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Isabel Marant A/W 2014

JJ Martin — Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:35:54 +0000

Isabel Marant sells the pieces from her well-priced high fashion label like hot cakes, and next Winter she introduced several new additions to her line-up of tasty trends. Given that Marant's skirts were microscopic, and therefore barely visible to the naked eye, most of the bottom half news this season came in the form of pants. A next generation cargo pant, for example, was swept clean of its superfluous pockets and instead featured dramatic lacing up the legs and a tied, high waist. Also new: a low-slung cropped leather trouser with roomy hips. What wasn't quite as convincing as those two shapes, however, were the woolly mohair sweatpants that looked about as cosy as sandpaper. But Marant was on a scratchy stretch this season and cut up all manner of hairy wools into roomy sweaters, voluminous cardigans and sweeping overcoats. So the pants had a point. The outerwear on this runway, as on almost every influential one we've seen so far, veered towards the mannish and oversized. Though she'll be selling the pants off her Navajo-tinged hooded ponchos or wool coats, we predict that the hottest cake of next season will be her pure white curly lambs wool that was spread with unruly exuberance over vests, jackets and coats.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans )

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)