Beauty and fashion are close bedfellows. But in 2024, this relationship got even cosier, with a litany of turbocharged crossovers between the two disciplines.

The year began with Pat McGrath’s viral porcelain doll make-up for John Galliano’s tenure-defining Maison Margiela Artisanal S/S 2024 show. Later, during September’s S/S 2025 show season, Olivier Rousteing welcomed the much-anticipated Balmain Beauty. (As well as releasing a line of perfumes called ‘Les Éternels’, the Balmain runway collection included clothes and accessories directly referencing the fragrance bottles, alongside yet-to-be-released products such as lipsticks and eyeshadows).

In October, Celine debuted its first-ever beauty line, with a red lipstick called ‘Rouge Celine’, designed by Hedi Slimane. (Slimane announced his departure from the house soon after). During the same month, Matthieu Blazy unveiled a collection of Bottega Veneta fragrances in Murano glass bottles. Last week (12 December 2024) it was revealed that Blazy would be stepping down from Bottega Veneta and into the role of creative director at Chanel. The day before that, news broke that John Galliano would be exiting Maison Margiela.

If one is to believe fashion’s rumour mill, there are more major changes yet to come in the new year. But if the past 12 months have taught us anything, beauty is going to be a huge part of whatever these changes may be. Here, Wallpaper* takes a closer look at a selection of key fashion-meets-beauty moments, which set the tone for 2025 and beyond.

How 2024 brought beauty and fashion closer than ever before

Beauty on the runway, from Maison Margiela to Marc Jacobs

Even if you still haven’t seen the videos of Maison Margiela Artisanal S/S 2024, where John Galliano’s cast of models (including the likes of Gwendoline Christie) staggered beneath the arches of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, dressed as dolls plucked straight from Émile Zola’s demi-monde, you’ll have seen the make-up. Or, perhaps the endless reproductions of it across Instagram and TikTok at least. After all, almost immediately after the Pat McGrath-created look appeared on the runway, the internet was ablaze with beauty creators trying to decode the secret formula to the waxen, porcelain skin.

The hubbub around the look reached such a fever pitch that McGrath eventually weighed in herself, sharing the lengthy list of products – including a dizzy combination of peeling masques layered and dried directly on the skin with a hairdryer – that it took to achieve. (Ever the savvy entrepreneur, though, Dame Pat also revealed that her empire-scale beauty business, Pat McGrath Labs, is in the process of developing an all-in-one product for fans eager to get the look).

If there’s another fashion figure who won big in the beauty stakes this year, it would have to be Marc Jacobs, who collaborated with McGrath on a limited edition ‘MatteTrance’ lipstick to mark the 40th anniversary of the American design’s namesake brand.

On the runway, however, it was the S/S 2024 40th anniversary Marc Jacobs show, held in March, which saw the likes of Alex Consani and Kaia Gerber transformed into living dolls (a key theme this year, it would seem).

Strutting out from beneath large-scale Robert Therrien sculptures, their clumped eye make-up by Diane Kendal was offset with hectic 1960s-esque bouffants from Duffy. The label’s second show of the year for A/W 2024, which took place in July, pushed the all-pervasive doll theme yet further, with models sporting cartoonish overblown pastel eyelid covers, sewn from fabrics and trimmed with spidery faux lashes.

Beauty-inspired collections, from Balmain to Abra

But runway beauty went the extra mile in 2024, with collections even taking direct inspiration from beauty products themselves.

At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing used the house’s S/S 2025 show, staged in September, as an opportunity to toast a new line of perfumes called ‘Les Éternels’ and tease yet-to-be-released Balmain Beauty products. Flacon-shaped clutches, trompe l’oeil lipstick heels and eyeshadow palette pochettes figured alongside dresses embroidered with depictions of scarlet tinted lips and lacquered nails. (In 2022, Balmain partnered with Estée Lauder to bring Balmain Beauty to life. William P. Lauder, grandson of Estée and chairman of executive chairman of The Estée Lauder Companies, watched the collection unfold from the front row).

Elsewhere, independent label Abra leaned into beauty-inspired design for its A/W 2024 show, presented over Paris Fashion Week in February. The brand was founded in 2019 by Abraham Ortūno Perez, who has worked with Jonathan Anderson on footwear for both JW Anderson and Loewe. In particular, Perez is responsible for the former’s giant chain mules and the latter's surrealist sandals for S/S 2022, which included heels in hyper-realistic broken eggs, bars of soap and bottles of nail polish.

For the Abra collection in question, make-up brushes were transformed into necklaces, while lipsticks and mini eyeshadow palettes became earrings and brooches. There was also an oversized white T-shirt dress, which appeared as though the model had wiped her hands on it after applying foundation.

Beauty launches, from Celine to Bottega Veneta

2024 was as much about what landed on shop floors as what we saw on the runways, with the year bringing a glut of beauty launches from brands and houses.

One of the most memorable is Celine’s first-ever make-up product, ‘Le Rouge Celine’, a classic satin-finish scarlet hue that comes in an exquisite gold case, developed under the direction of Hedi Slimane. The entire cosmetics line, Celine Beauté, is set to continue under his successor Michael Rider, with more products such as eyeliner, eye pencils and more coming next year.

Elsewhere, Victoria Beckham’s booming beauty empire expanded further, with a collaboration with Augustinus Bader on a concealer pen, which contains the science-led skincare brand’s patented TFC8 technology. Augustinus Bader, which was founded by its namesake biomedical scientist and CEO Charles Rosier, is no stranger to fashion partnerships, having previously teamed up with the likes of Haider Ackermann. (On another note, Ackermann joined Tom Ford in September 2024, drumming up intrigue around the direction the French-Colombian designer will take its revered fragrance and beauty line, which recently put out a lipstick campaign starring Angelina Jolie).

Victoria Beckham Beauty debuted ‘21:50 Rêverie’ – a scent inspired by a twilight dinner she and her husband David once had in the Javan rainforest – by perfuming the designer’s S/S 2025 show space with it. (This wasn't the only time that scent was seen on the runway this year, with Burberry perfuming its A/W 2024 show space with ‘Ivy’ by Perfumer H).

Acolytes of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta were blessed with scented candles in volcano-glazed pots and five perfumes including ‘Come With Me’ and ‘Acqua Sale’, all inspired by Venice, the ultra-luxe label’s home city. Each was housed in glass bottles that echoed the texture of handblown Murano and perched on a miniature Verde Saint Denis marble plinth.

Beauty and fashion in 2025, from Dries Van Noten to Miu Miu

Keeping track of the developing relationship between the worlds of fashion and beauty in 2024 was truly a head-spinning task. This year also saw Dries van Noten take a final bow as creative director of his brand, after almost a decade at its helm. (On 9 December, it was revealed that Julian Klausner would succeed him).

However, Van Noten will continue to work on its beauty and fragrance division, stoking excitement around how its offering could develop. As the designer told Wallpaper* in the December 2024 issue: ‘My life changed quite a lot this year,’ he says. ‘It’s an exciting time. We had some storms, with big trees falling over, so there is more work to do in the garden and some thinking to be done.’

Perhaps the launch to look out for next year, though, is the arrival of Miu Miu beauty. Launching by way of a licencing agreement with L’Oréal, the new line expands the Prada Group’s beauty foothold, which was first established in 2023 with Prada Beauty, under the creative direction of Lyndsey Alexander.

It is also worth keeping an eye on Chanel. Although beauty and fragrance will not be under new creative director Matthieu Blazy’s direct purview, it will nonetheless be interesting to see how his creative vision informs and interacts with this vital and storied branch of the French house.

‘A new French style’ is how Alice B Toklas, member of the Parisian avant-garde, described Balmain when the first collection debuted in 1945. Seventy-five years on, its current creative director, Olivier Rousteing, is carrying on the tradition of innovation. Perhaps fashion’s most impressive Wunderkind – he took the helm of the brand at just 25 years old – Rousteing revitalised the brand by translating traditional couture techniques into a contemporary vernacular.

Olivier Rousteing on a very French vision

It seems only natural, then, that Rousteing would collaborate with candlemaker Trudon, a company known for its ‘reliance on archives, savoir-faire and legacies as key ingredients in the creation of offerings that are very much of today’, as he puts it.

‘Centuries ago, Trudon concentrated on meeting the needs of the powerful French monarchy and church – but now, with its inventive scents and beautifully presented candles, the company inventively relies on its wealth of knowledge and experience to surprise with new breakthroughs and reimagined offerings that fit perfectly into a 21st-century, modern ambiance,’ adds Rousteing.

The new Balmain-Trudon candle

The first Balmain-Trudon candle came out last year, but this limited edition features a new container and a new scent, derived from Trudon’s ever-popular ‘Ernesto’ candle. The ‘Ernesto’ is very familiar to Rousteing, who often burns the luxury candles in his home, studio, and even the Balmain flagship.

For him, ‘there is something a bit spiritual about a candle. I love the tiny bit of a ceremony that is part of setting it out, lighting it and letting its soft light give a new warmth to a space. Somehow, it relaxes me and helps me feel more creative as I work. I guess that feeling should not be all that surprising, knowing that Trudon originally began, centuries ago, creating candles for French cathedrals.’

Rousteing worked with the nose behind the ‘Ernesto’ candle, Emilie Bouge, to create a floral, slightly more delicate edition of this classic scent. The original ‘Ernesto’ is inspired by a Havana hotel during the Cuban Revolution, and features a steamy mix of tobacco, cedar and gunpowder.

‘If Ernesto was incarnated it would be a Cuban rebel like Che Guevara, smoking his cigar with his sleeves rolled up,’ says Julien Pruvost, Creative Director for Trudon. ‘The Balmain version is a feminine [incarnation] of that scent. She wouldn’t smell like tobacco and leather but she would be impregnated with that because she’s around these men. She’s part of the rebellion but carries a deep sensual kind of dark floral notes, like a black rose.’

The candle’s striped, red and gold container is a visual complement to Balmain’s fashion collections. As with all Trudon candles, the glass container has been handcrafted in Tuscany and filled with a unique wax formulation perfected over its over 300 year history. Rousteing says, ‘The bold stripes on the glass container reference one of Balmain’s icons: the house’s modern, luxe take on Normandy’s traditional marinière sweater. We’ve played with new takes on the marinière on almost every Balmain Paris Fashion Week runway for the past decade.’ The gold colouring, meanwhile, is ‘a salute to Balmain’s couture origins’.

Keeping a historic brand relevant

Ultimately, the new Balmain-Trudon candle is a compelling study in how historic brands innovate and collaborate to stay relevant to a modern audience. Asked about this, Rousteing says: ‘Balmain rests atop an incredible legacy. And, of course, each of our collections builds upon that history, looking to our rich archives for inspiration and relying on skilled artisans, whose savoir-faire is based on centuries of Parisian fashion refinement and learning. But, at the same time, this house could not possibly be more of today. That’s because Balmain has always looked to the power of popular culture, as well as the energy and beauty surrounding us on the avenues and boulevards of Paris, for inspiration.’

This constant celebration of new thoughts and new voices is what guarantees that the historic house continues to offer a truly modern and compelling outlook.

INFORMATION

balmain.com; trudon.com

Sneakers have taken on even more collectible currency. In September 2020, Sotheby’s Cult Canvas auction saw a series of artist-designed Nike trainers sell for prices as high as $63,000, customised by creatives including Futura and Jeff Staple, and in November of the same year, Detroit-based sneaker reseller Stock X announced it had an average of 25 million monthly users worldwide. Earlier this month, trainers even stepped into the NFT market, with virtual sneaker brand RTFKT Studios linked up with the crypto-artist FEWOCiOUS, on a sale of over 600 styles that totalled over $3.1 million in sales. From Dior to Celine, a host of brands are stepping out with new coveted styles, guaranteed to be future collectors items. Walk this way!

Sneakers to step out in now

Valentino

The rebellious stud detail of Valentino Garavani's accessoriesa are a contemporary style signature of the Roman maison, which has now been applied as an accoutrement to its trainer silhouettes. The newly released Valentino Garavani One Stud sneakers feature enlarged macro stud details, sure to draw attention. We're opting for the mid-top style for Eighties-inspired oomph.

Palm Angels

Think of Palm Angel's newly released Palm One sneaker as the trainer version of a white t-shirt: timeless, versatile and sleek. The subtly retro style's optic white upper also boasts a bold ankle tab in black and paint box tones - an exuberant way to show off your personality.

Louis Vuitton

For S/S 2021, men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh has created eco-aware upcycled versions of a sneaker he first debuted on the Vuitton runway in 2019. The styles have a skate culture sensibility and have been imagined in a spectrum of colour blocked shades, from fuschia to highlighter green. Which colour combination are you wishing for?

Dior

The Dior x Nike Air Jordan 1 has already had sneakerheads salivating, and now Kim Jones has released the latest style in Dior's sneaker cannon. The B27 nods to the sartorial sway of 1980s skateboarders and features an upper laser cut with the Oblique Dior logo. The styles are available in white and black and also grey – Monsieur Dior’s favourite colour.

Asics Kiko Kostadinov

In celebration of the GEL-LYTETM III’s 30th anniversary, Kiko Kostadinov has spliced up the three-decade old style, amalgamating the curved sole of the Asics Glideride model to its form. This hybrid shape encourages the feeling of seamless coasting when running, as the sole minimises lower leg movement through each stride. Get that runner’s high with fashion-forward form.

Celine

There’s a renegade sense of retro behind the label’s newest trainer styles, which were debuted on a motor racing track in Southern France. This high top silhouette, featuring bold colour blocked panels, speaks of sports hall sessions and cigarettes beneath the bleachers. The styles are also available in shimmering metallic.

Prada 

The second iteration of Prada and Adidas’ partnership culminates in a sleek silhouette crafted for the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, who will be representing Italy at the 36th America’s Cup next March. The ergonomic and lightweight shape is inspired by the design of the team's AC75 boat and its upper is composed of recycled Primegreen. Smooth sailing style.

Balmain

Been pining for the natural world? The undulating upper of Balmain’s B Runner sneaker is inspired by the curving and meandering pathways of water. Despite being formed from rubberised leather, nylon mesh and suede, the style weighs a mere 730 grams. How’s that for added bounce?

Adidas x Meissen

Adidas and fellow German Meissen, the specialist porcelain brand, have teamed up to create the ZX 10,000 C sneaker, a style with a naturalistic floral design, created for the first time in Adidas’ Scheinfeld factory. In celebration of the collaboration, a one off art piece – the ZX 8000 Porcelain – has also been created, comprised of leather hand-painted by Meissen and porcelain overlay. It's currently at auction at Sotheby’s New York and estimated to sell for $1,000,000.

The newest style in Tod’s innovative No_Code series? A sleek high top silhouette inspired by Mario Bellini's Brionvega RR130 - Totem, a sleek 1970s soundsystem, with a turnable and speakers which folded from a monochromatic cube. Whether you opt for designer Yong Bae Seok’s white or black sneakers, you'll achieve real design-led drama.

Studio KO has just revealed the first designs for the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Morocco, a new complex entirely dedicated to the legendary French designer and his work. Situated in Marrakesh, the establishment will house part of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Paris collection.

Headed by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier, the French architecture firm already has some serious leisure and fashion credentials under its belt – they are also behind works such as the Chiltern Firehouse in London and the Balmain boutique in New York.

The team has had an office in Morocco for 15 years. They had worked privately for Pierre Bergé (co-founder of YSL fashion house and President of the Fondation PB-YSL) in Tangier in the past – an event which led to this commission. ‘It came that, as young architects in Paris, we had an opportunity to get in touch with great clients there in Morocco, where expectations were huge and competitors few,’ they say. ‘It all started with the Hermès (family), the Agnellis, then Pierre Bergé.’

The new building sits next to the famous Jardin Majorelle, which was co-owned by Saint Laurent and where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008. It will span 4,000 sq m and play host to an impressive 5,000 items of clothing; 15,000 accessories; thousands of sketches; and other assorted objects.

A permanent exhibition area will be complemented by a temporary exhibition space, a 130-seat auditorium, a bookshop, a cafe-restaurant with a terrace and a research library, touching upon themes of literature, botany, Berber culture, poetry, history and, of course, Saint Laurent’s oeuvre.

The architects take inspiration from the North African country for their designs. The new building is a sophisticated, tactile project in terracotta (bricks from a local supplier make up the external skin), concrete, terrazzo and Moroccan stone. There were also sartorial influences.

‘The client gave us – on purpose – an abstract brief, that was not referring to the formal language of Yves Saint Laurent. Pierre Bergé wanted the project to be anchored in both modernity and Morocco,’ explain the architects. ‘We designed the building like one would cut fabric for a dress, by composing curves and lines, in the fashion of the working drawings, white traced on black paper, that we discovered in the designer’s workshop and archives. Its façades would be wrapped it in a brick trim, like a drape, a throw, a cape.’

The 2017 launch of the new building is scheduled to coincide with a new Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris, in the renovated headquarters of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.

INFORMATION

For more information, visit the Studio KO website

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Kickboxers throwing punches at a live match hosted by Snoop Dogg, who rapped his heart out in front of tattooed, motocross-padded models at Philipp Plein’s men’s show

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Hunchbacked models at Maison Margiela

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Metal cage-covered rooms, of varying proportions, built by OMA for the Prada men’s show space

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‘Boob bag’, handcrafted from dark shiny leather, on Christopher Lemaire’s runway (‘Free the nipple!’ cried social media immediately afterwards)

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Thugged-out Looney Tunes characters dripping in bling at Jeremy Scott’s women’s Moschino show

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Kilograms of culatello consumed by 1,000 people in three hours, together with 170 bottles of Fortana del Taro red wine, at Caruso’s Milan presentation

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Rising section of the runway at Saint Laurent, where models and rock star Julia Cumming from Sunflower Bean started their catwalk procession

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Male models blatanly flashing their genitalia in frontal windows strategiacally cut out of their flowing floor-length tunics at Rick Owens

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Million followers on Instagram for 29-year-old Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing, the most-followed fashion designer in France

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Hands that work on Kiton’s suits

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Kickboxers throwing punches at a live match hosted by Snoop Dogg, who rapped his heart out in front of tattooed, motocross-padded models at Philipp Plein’s men’s show

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Trees and plants that Ermenegildo Zegna planted inside Milan’s former Fiera for its fashion show, all of which were later replanted as part of the Zegna Oasis environmental project

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Models swaddled in a cocoon of white bows at the Comme des Garçons show

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Headdresses in the shape of lampshades at Junya Watanabe

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Years after their first outing that Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson reprised their Zoolander roles by staging a surprise live runway walk-off at the Valentino show in Paris

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Boys at Gucci doing the girl thing in silky bow-front blouses

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Mary J Blige impromptu concert, staged by DSquared2’s Dean and Dan Caten at the end of the brand’s 20th anniversary show in Milan

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Moncler Gamme Bleu menswear models who quick-changed out of their jockey-inspired uniforms into totally new looks under flashing strobe lights

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Kanye West charity concert nights organised by Bernard Arnault’s son Alexandre at the Louis Vuitton Foundation during Paris Fashion Week

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Face and ear piercings on the female models at Givenchy, while four men had their mouths held tightly shut with cage-like metal clamps

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Couples (both hetero and gay) dressed for 25 sports at Moncler Grenoble’s pop-up ski lodge in New York, including a bride and groom in full wedding outerwear

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Days to assemble Chanel’s pop-up brasserie set inside Paris’ Grand Palais, which featured 9m-high walls, tiled floors, 100 seats and 14 barmen serving coffee, juice, champagne and croissants

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Life-sized, fully functioning roller coaster, complete with screaming riders, installed inside Milan’s retired Fiera for Philipp Plein’s womenswear show

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Books in the pop-up library at Julie de Libran’s Sonia Rykiel show

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Age of ex-model Benedetta Barzini, who was the star of Antonio Marras’ runway show

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Spinning 20ft towers that glided across the Kenzo runway like giant chess pieces

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Infants, toddlers and children, plus one very pregnant model, walking the runway at Dolce & Gabbana’s women’s show

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Fur handbags in the shape of bird of paradise flowers on the Fendi runway

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Rare pearls on a $150,000 Calvin Klein dress, which was stolen from the hotel room of actress Lupita Nyong’o after the Oscars

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Models wearing cashmere shoe laces at the Brunello Cucinelli presentation

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Handbags shaped and printed like ceramic coffee saucers at Chanel

London's South Audley Street is now sporting a new French resident in the form of Parisian stalwart Balmain, with the house's 29 year-old creative director in town for its grand unveiling. Conceived by architect Joseph Dirand, the two-storey boutique merges a quiet 18th century elegance, which respectfully salutes the legacy of founder Pierre Balmain and its Mayfair location, with a fresh modernity courtesy of its neutral colour palette, geometric slate flooring and mirrored counters.

'The store in Paris is really rich French, Haussmann, baroque,' says Rousteing of the brand's global flagship, 'Here, we have kept the DNA with the quality and richness of that couture feeling, but we wanted it to feel more cosy and intimate because I think that is London, this warm intimacy belongs to London more than Paris.' Sitting in the store's lower ground menswear salon he adds, 'Paris is all this marble, like you are coming to a castle, whereas here it is a like a little chic glamour house.'

The brand's Parisian architect concurs: 'It was very important for me that this London address be a continuation, not a replication, of my previous work for Balmain. In 2009, when I remodeled the house's historic Paris flagship my aim was to create a Parisian townhouse where the house founder would have been very much at home. My work on this London flagship translates that same French refinement into a slightly different English vocabulary.' Here, Dirand has maintained the façade's traditional gold leaf and black lacquer frame, yet inside the space's aristocratic mouldings that have been dialed back for a new age.

'Since this is meant to be founder Pierre Balmain's "London pied-à-terre", it made sense to channel the look of the local architecture,' he continues. 'To do that, I relied on the vocabulary of the Queen Anne Revival style - the defining architectural style of the surrounding Mayfair neighborhood. The space's doors, ceilings, mirrors and large stone fireplace are all inspired by that classically sober English style.' Under foot the floor's ivory thalas and grey hainaut stone paving is also a riff on traditional English parquet.

'Continuing on the theme of this address being a "second home" I also think that if Pierre Balmain had made the move to London, he would definitely have brought along with him the furniture that he loved. Therefore, I have created pieces inspired by the house founder's favourite mid-century French furniture designers, André Arbus and Jean Royère.'

The colour palette and noir marble accents also replicate the walls and fireplaces of the house's current designer's home: 'My house is really French, Haussmann and baroque,' says Rousteing, 'but not gold, more white on white, and black on black. The marble fireplaces are a little piece of Versailles that I love - the richness of France.'

As for the store's key accent hue - an olive that has featured heavily in Rousteing's recent military-minded collections, he adds, 'Khaki has always been really important to the collections - last winter was all olive - as it works really well with most colours. So whatever collection you put around it, it will match.' Indeed, the perfect neutral resting place for S/S 2015's graphic prints and tribal beading, before A/W 2015's disco colour palette lands in London in the autumn.

ADDRESS

Balmain
69 South Audley Street
W1K 2QZ, London

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Olivier Rousteing's hip-hop soundtrack set the scene for A/W, as Jourdan Dunn strode onto his Perspex runway in a leather utility biker jacket and silk cargo pants, as the lyrics went on to decree, 'she wants it... so I gotta get it to her'. This exuberance for a patch pocket was first seen in New York at Alexander Wang, although this outing was set to be a far sexier R&B groove. Leather cargo versions soon marched by, despite the fact that the Balmain woman is not really the type to need to carry anything more than her attitude. The tribal beat built with coiled neckpieces, weighty gold bamboo hoop earrings, and the house's strong-shouldered jackets, cinched with a pleated peplum and teamed back with studded Roman gladiator skirts, as the military influence strode along, climaxing with a one-shouldered officer's uniform that was strictly for after-dark territory. Far from being a democratising leveller, Rousteing's uniforms were awarded a decorated status, and came dripping with the tight-laced manipulations we've come to expect from the 28-year-old's meticulously worked ready-to-wear. His warrior muse was loud and proud, inspired by Peter Beard's safari photography, and women of his generation. Rousteing's rope braiding leapt off a General's epaulette to form heavy, body-con numbers that even gave Rosie Huntington-Whiteley a little extra bootie. In essence the Balmain woman's got game, and even more than usual, thanks to a selection of re-worked African pelts from leopard to zebra, paired-back with his global nomad's laced-up tortoiseshell heels.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans