Wallpaper* celebrates architect Annabelle Selldorf’s tailoring collaboration

Selldorf pictured with Savile Row tailor Nick Hart
We teamed architect Annabelle Selldorf up with three top tailors to create the perfect bespoke suit for our Design Awards issue. Here, Selldorf is pictured with Savile Row tailor Nick Hart, of Spencer Hart, maker of the bespoke jacket worn by the architect
(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

London's art, design and fashion world descended on Hauser & Wirth gallery earlier this month to celebrate an inspired collaboration between Wallpaper*, architect Annabelle Selldorf and three of Savile Row's top tailors. The event was perfectly timed to be a part of London Collections: Men – the British Fashion Council's biannual initiative, now in it's second year, which gives London menswear it's own dedicated slot in the Men's fashion week calendar.

When Selldorf, the art world's go-to architect for beautifully-designed exhibition spaces, told us about her long-held ambition to create the perfect outfit, we jumped at the chance to broker a commission, tasking her to create the perfect ensemble for our Design Awards issue. With her particular interest in the cut and thrust of the Savile Row suit, we saw a perfect fit in Hardy Amies, Spencer Hart and Richard James.

'About a decade ago I had this obsession with the idea of creating a set of perfect clothing that could work in any situation,' mused Selldorf. From there it was a natural leap to Savile Row, the heart of British tailoring, which is in a sense its own sort of soft architecture. 'It felt very much like my own work - having an idea in mind and then working with craftspeople and designers to get the best out of their skills and the materials'.

Since establishing her architecture practice in 1988, Selldorf has designed elegant spaces for many of the art world's super dealers such as David Zwirner, Haunch of Venison, and, of course, Hauser & Wirth. It only seemed appropriate to host the gathering in the latter's Selldorf-designed Savile Row space, where guests - including the likes of Sir Paul Smith, David Adjaye and Jay Osgerby - came together amongst the striking totemic columns, pedestal works and collages of contemporary artist Isa Genzken.

Any remnants of December party fatigue were quickly left at the door. Vodka virtuosos Ketel One provided a steady stream of ambrosial cocktails and catering by the always-dapper Cellar Society boys elevated the party a cut above the rest.

More about our Savile Row collaborators…
    
Richard James
Richard James was Selldorf's first port of call for 'the ultimate pair of trousers', an exercise in super-clean, precision modernism.  Where most people might opt for more obviously luxurious super-soft cashmere, Selldorf wanted a fabric with structure and so chose a midnight blue, high-twist worsted from Huddersfield with an open weave. The 'go anywhere, anytime' brief was answered with a low-rise, flat-fronted pair of trousers with a one-inch turn-up, a more refined take on the norm.

Spencer Hart
For the jacket, Selldorf opted for an open-weave mohair hopsack fabric by William Halford. Unstructured, unlined and single-breasted, the jacket is atypically soft on the shoulder and short in the body, fitted through the waist with a narrow, high-notch lapel. 'It was an interesting piece to make because you can't just tweak how you tailor for men,' said Spencer Hart founder, Nick Hart, 'And women like Annabelle tend to want tailored garments that are decidedly modern like this one and not something that makes them look liked they've stepped out of a costume drama.'

Hardy Amies
Hardy Amies was set the challenge of making Selldorf an overcoat in a grey wool herringbone.  Selldorf selected a three-button, single-breasted, knee-length style, with the middle-button at the waist, two flap pockets and a high-notch lapel.  The personality of the piece is in the idiosyncratic detailing: a teal green lining, concealed cuffs, a collar lined in the same cloth as the coat rather than felt, and a traditional men's fastening. According to Stuart Lamprell, head cutter at Hardy Amies, 'The details are also an expression of the craft in bespoke, and that's where the value lies, hidden behind the lining.'

woman in grey overcoat

Selldorf's overcoat, in grey wool herringbone with a teal lining and a traditional men's fastening, is the work of Stuart Lamprell, head cutter at Hardy Amies, while Richard James was in charge of her ultimate trousers - pictured right (in the making) - made from high-twist worsted fabric, and featuring a one-inch turn-up

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Wallpaper* fashion director Isabelle Kountoure, Wallpaper* creative director Sarah Douglas and tailor Richard James

Wallpaper* fashion director Isabelle Kountoure, Wallpaper* creative director Sarah Douglas and tailor Richard James

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Artist Ben Langlands, Frieze co-director Matthew Slotover, Annabelle Selldorf and artist Christian Marclay

Artist Ben Langlands, Frieze co-director Matthew Slotover, Annabelle Selldorf and artist Christian Marclay

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Ketel One; professional cyclist David Millar and Wallpaper* Bespoke editor Simon Mills

Cocktails came courtesy of Ketel One; professional cyclist David Millar and Wallpaper* Bespoke editor Simon Mills

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

KCD publicist Adam Shapiro, Prism founder Anna Laub and Isabelle Kountoure

KCD publicist Adam Shapiro, Prism founder Anna Laub and Isabelle Kountoure

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

guests at Hauser & Wirth's Selldorf-designed gallery on Savile Row

Guests came together amongst the collages and pedestal works of contemporary artist Isa Genzken at Hauser & Wirth's Selldorf-designed gallery on Savile Row

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Model Ashley Shaw-Scott and architect David Adjaye

Model Ashley Shaw-Scott and architect David Adjaye

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Manhattan Loft founder Harry Handelsman, Luxup editor Harriet Quick and GQ editor Dylan Jones

Manhattan Loft founder Harry Handelsman, Luxup editor Harriet Quick and GQ editor Dylan Jones, who chairs London Collections: Men

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Simon Mills, Esquire editor Alex Bilmes and Sir Paul Smith

Simon Mills, Esquire editor Alex Bilmes and Sir Paul Smith

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Architect and designer David Collins; model Sarah Ann Macklin

Architect and designer David Collins; model Sarah Ann Macklin

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Sarah Douglas, Annabelle Selldorf and Wallpaper* Editor-in-Chief Tony Chambers

Sarah Douglas, Annabelle Selldorf and Wallpaper* Editor-in-Chief Tony Chambers

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Artist Rolf Sachs; Jack Bell Gallery associate director Oliver Durey

Artist Rolf Sachs; Jack Bell Gallery associate director Oliver Durey

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Artist Nikki Bell, Annabelle Selldorf and Ben Langlands

Artist Nikki Bell, Annabelle Selldorf and Ben Langlands

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)

Architect Amanda Levete and London Design Festival director Ben Evans; Amanda Mann

Architect Amanda Levete and London Design Festival director Ben Evans; Amanda Mann

(Image credit: Annabelle Selldorf)