There’s an unadulterated architectural elegance to the creations of jewellery designer Mania Zamani, who runs her eponymous fine jewellery label out of New York City. Founded in 2013 and then catering mostly to private clients with one-of-a-kind pieces, Zamani has since widened her reach with two recently added collections, ‘East/West’ and ‘Unity’.
Zamani’s distinctive, geometric forms speak to her own multi-cultural background. Born in Tehran, her interest in architecture, precious stones and minerals is rooted in Persian traditions, where specific materials are symbolically tied to notions of family. After studying gemology and jewellery at the Gemological Institute of America, Zamani went on to pursue fine jewellery at the Fashion Institute of Technology, which further honed her contemporary, forward-thinking aesthetic.
‘What fascinates me about fine jewellery goes beyond the final gemstones to the millions of years it took to form them,’ says Zamani. ‘Precious stones have deep geopolitical, historical and cultural significance. Crucially, jewellery is design meant to be worn in real life – today, just as it was centuries ago and will be ages from now.’
Her latest collections are true testament to this way of thinking. ‘Unity’ taps into geometric patterns that appear in both ancient and modern times. Ten chain link pieces, ranging from necklaces and bracelets to several different earrings, are cast in 18-carat yellow gold and white diamonds, and take on an unexpected freshness, while retaining their classic appeal.
A similar sensibility appears in Zamani’s ‘East/West’ collection, which fuses shared architectural philosophies from both sides of the world into a bevvy of adventurous shapes. The angular pieces not only draw inspiration from Iranian icons such as the Tehran’s Freedom Tower, the mirrored hall of Golestan Palace and the ornamental ceiling in the Bazaar of Kashan, but a range of recognisable Western landmarks including Norman Foster’s Hearst Building in New York, the Kunst museum in Basel and the cluster of new buildings that form New York’s World Trade Center as well. Developed over the course of a year, the 15 avant-garde pieces are crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, white pavé diamonds and pearlescent white chalcedony for a luminous effect.