Ceramics and synthetic stones infiltrate the fine jewellery realm
Fine jewellery has taken a cue from the watch world by introducing high-tech manufactured materials alongside traditional precious metals and gemstones. The idea isn't novel: hard-wearing ceramics have been used to strengthen watch cases for decades now, with Apple recently blending ceramic powder into gold for the Apple Watch edition. But jewellers are creating a new luxury code by employing ceramic as a glossy foil to white diamonds, or turning to man-made stones set in natural golds for accessible, wearable jewels.
Milanese jewellery house Pomellato uses synthetic rubies and sapphires in hues of cadmium, orange or magenta for the Rouge Passion collection. Backed by mother of pearl, the cabochons have a creamy lustre and are set on bold cocktail rings, drop studs and pendant necklaces in 9 carat rose gold. These playful jewels have seen a strong response - the line is now one of Pomellato's bestsellers. CEO Andrea Morante points out, 'Using synthetic stones is pretty daring - no brand that is over 100-years-old could do that. But Pomellato's founder Pino Rabolini said that jewellery has to be something for every day.'
Older maisons are also experimenting. Earlier this year Chanel released the Cosmique de Chanel collection as a contemporary take on one of the house's most enduring motifs, the comet. This time, brilliant-cut diamond stars shoot across polished monochrome ceramics on chunky rings, pendant necklaces and earrings - a graphic update in tune with Chanel's philosophy of mixing high and low. Boucheron's relaunched Quatre White Edition collection of rings and earrings stacks layers of white ceramic between bands of yellow, white and pink golds and pavé diamonds. The company spent two years developing Hyceramic: more malleable than other ceramics, this sculptable alloy has been cut by hand into a textured band that resembles the cobblestones lining the Place Vendôme in Paris. A high-tech tribute to the home of fine jewellery, where synthetics have clearly found their own unique niche.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
The moments fashion met art at the 60th Venice Biennale
The best fashion moments at the 2024 Venice Biennale, with happenings from Dior, Golden Goose, Balenciaga, Burberry and more
By Jack Moss Published
-
Crispin at Studio Voltaire, in Clapham, is a feast for all the senses
New restaurant Crispin at Studio Voltaire is the latest opening from the brains behind Bistro Freddie and Bar Crispin, with interiors by Jermaine Gallagher
By Billie Brand Published
-
Vivienne Westwood’s personal wardrobe goes up for sale in landmark Christie’s auction
The proceeds of ’Vivienne Westwood: The Personal Collection’, running this June, will go to the charitable causes she championed during her lifetime
By Jack Moss Published
-
Year in review: top 10 watch and jewellery stories of 2023, as picked by Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver
Silver’s top 10 watch and jewellery stories of 2023 span cool horological collaborations, sculptural forms, and cutlery as bracelets
By Hannah Silver Published
-
The odd couple: Chanel and Pomellato play with asymmetry in jewellery
Two jewellery houses, Chanel and Pomellato, take a new turn, toying with asymmetry to create organically opulent pieces
By Caragh McKay Published
-
Peek inside the vast new Boucheron Tokyo boutique
Boucheron unveils its 1000 sq m new boutique in Ginza, Tokyo
By Hannah Silver Published
-
The stars align in Chanel’s new high jewellery collection
Patrice Leguéreau pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel with the ‘1932’ collection
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Peter Marino’s refurbished Chanel boutique reopens its doors in Paris
The Chanel boutique at 18 Place Vendôme is dedicated exclusively to watches and jewellery
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Introducing Chanel’s new capsule watch collection, the Wanted
The Wanted collection adds a cool edge to Chanel’s much-loved watch families
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Chanel marks 90 years of high jewellery with heavenly new necklace
The ‘Allure Céleste’ necklace nods to Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite celestial design codes
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
New Chanel watch for men revels in racing car chic
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Edition makes for an exhilarating and elegant watch, inspired by racing car design codes
By Hannah Silver Last updated