Precious spirit: ten years of Ann Demeulemeester’s darkly poetic jewellery
In Ann Demeulemeester’s visual language, feathers figure heavily as symbols of freedom, humbleness and poetry. The free-spirited Belgian designer uses them often as keepsakes at her shows, but also in her jewellery.
Demeulemeester introduced jewellery to her brand offering in 2006. She chooses to work with dove and pheasant feathers, sometimes bare, sometimes dipped in silver or paint, hanging from silver chains or enclosed in medallions and vials, which she has also filled with sterling silver drops, feather quills, loose diamond pearls and precious stones.
A Belgian art and design gallery in Ghent, Casa Argentaurum, looks back on the ten years of jewellery creation that have complemented and defined Demeulmeester’s quietly rebellious and darkly poetic aesthetic.
Caroline Dewolf, the founder of Casa Argentaurum who also (co-)curates most exhibitions there, is a longtime admirer of Demeulemeester’s ‘fashion design and of the ideas underpinning her jewellery’, she says. Dewolf feels especially drawn to ‘the purity Ann can obtain from silver, the lack of shine’.
Each jewellery collection by Demeulemeester contains elements from the previous one. ‘That signifies evolution to me,’ says Dewolf. ‘She takes the beautiful and the good she has learned from the past, and continues to work on that foundation.’ Though Demeulemeester was not personally involved in the exhibition, her long-standing team joined Dewolf in this project. Anne Chapelle, CEO of BVBA 32, the company behind Atelier Ann Demeulemeester and who has worked with the designer since 1994, takes a surprisingly sustainable commercial approach to the industry she champions.
‘A collection of jewellery isn't an absolute necessity,’ she states. ‘It is an extension decorating the body and highlighting the personality of the one wearing the jewels. It finishes a silhouette.’ Demeulemeester’s additions of feathers and diamond dust to her often chunky pieces is only one aspect of that philosophy. The jewels, Chapelle states, are made ‘to make people dream, rather than to make them glitter’.
INFORMATION
For more information, visit Ann Demeulemeester’s website and the Casa Argentaurum website
ADDRESS
Casa Argentaurum
Brabantdam 68
B-9000 Gent
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Remembering Richard Serra (1938-2024), American art’s man of steel
American artist Richard Serra, whose vast sculptures transformed landscapes around the world, has died aged 85
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Architectural gardens around the world to soothe the soul
From small domestic gardens, to nature reserves, urban interventions and local parks, here are some of the finest green projects that place nature at their heart
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Corfu hotel Domes Miramare redefines beachfront bliss
Make like Jackie O at Corfu hotel Domes Miramare, a property with contemporary luxury and echoes of 1960s glamour in spades
By Bridget Downing Published
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Eternity rings for the modern couple
Eternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edge
As the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collect
Today’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
CryptoPunks come to life on Tiffany & Co pendants
Tiffany & Co has partnered with blockchain infrastructure company Chain to create custom pendants and NFTiffs
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Andreas Kronthaler’s costume jewellery for Vivienne Westwood is fun, flirty and fabulous
Andreas Kronthaler’s new jewellery draws on romantic and theatrical motifs
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Fope’s flexible gold chains rethink a classic design
Elasticity meets elegance in Fope’s new jewellery collection, ‘Luna’
By Hannah Silver Last updated