Since launching the label in 1986, Costume National founder and creative director, Ennio Capasa, has firmly embraced the new. This is a label in constant evolution, both on the catwalk and off. Take the designer’s ultramodern interpretations of classic tailoring in both his men’s and womenswear lines. 'Costume National has a highly recognisable style that merges the Italian background of perfect tailoring to a sensitivity toward what is modern and chic,' explains the designer. Modernity is a theme also evident in the brand’s ongoing initiatives. Indeed, Capasa was the first to live-stream a catwalk show a decade ago.
Ten years on and it’s the online flagship store that’s receiving a rework. Capasa’s aim? 'Sharing the Costume National essence in a digital, interactive and innovative way. Fashion lives in the present, and today it’s a must to be on track with new technologies and new ways of communication; the virtual world is more interactive and fast,' he explains. 'Our new website will be a space in which we can translate the essence of Costume National to everyone - a way in which our costumers will be able to feel as a part of our world anyway and anytime.'
The designer also continues to experiment and challenge through his seasonal collections. A/W 2014 is a case in point. The trademark Costume National tailoring takes on a more relaxed mood this time around.
For menswear, this translates into double breasted coats and jackets, bold knits and softer suiting, inspired by musician David Bowie. 'Coming out from the excess of the previous decade, we are searching for meaningful values in an era of contradictions, as Bowie did in Berlin between 1977 and 1989,' explains Capasa, citing his inspiration behind this collection. Evoking that vintage rock‘n’roll vibe are textures of felt, satin and eco fur, along with seventies-esqe stripes and prints, kept fresh and modern with razor-sharp details and new textures.
Similarly, the designer’s A/W 2014 womenswear collection is a masterclass in easy tailoring. 'I worked on the idea of breaking boundaries,' he says of the collection’s masculine/feminine angle. 'My A/W 2014 woman expresses a cool and relaxed mood, deriving from a deep consciousness of the contradicting times we are living in.' Capasa channeled his 'cool woman' through tuxedo jackets, elastic-hemmed trousers, boyfriend coats and mini dresses. A tightly edited colour palette of predominantly black, grey and winter white reinforced the borrowed-from-the-boys feeling, while volume-rich fabrics like innovative bonded leather and heavy wool crepe lent avant garde edge.
Visit costumenational.com to explore the new online store, and shop the A/W 2014 collection now.