Behind the Set: Rodarte A/W 2015

Citing migrating birds as their inspiration, the Mulleavy sisters create an illuminating bird's-eye view of the disco era

By Jack Moss
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Rodarte's A/W 2015 collection harked back to the days of disco - as models swayed down the catwalk dripping in crystal and lace to the sounds of the Bee Gees - but the Mulleavy sisters cited migrating birds as their inspiration.

The duo returned to a fluorescent tube-lit floor plan that forged a flight path through heaps of hoarded material. This theme of avian migration - from city to country, to be exact - was evidenced by Bureau Betak's set design, which transformed the industrial loft space at New York's Center 548 into a colourful nest with an amassment of foliage and building materials denoting a post-apocalyptic overgrown ruin. Rows of elevated benches encircled the parameter of the hatching show space.

The contrast of engineered and organic matter dutifully represented a departure from the machine-made harshness of the city to the bucolic nature of the country.

Jack Moss
Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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