Toustem restaurant, Paris

by Marie Lefort

Transferring the centre of attention from rue d’Assas to the heart of Paris’ Latin quarter, star chef Hélène Darroze has opened New Age bistro Toustem – which means 'Always' in her native dialect from the Landes in the south-west.

Installed in the basement of a historic house, designer Matali Crasset has blended the vaulted ceiling, stone walls and wooden beams from the 13th century with a more contemporary feel. Throughout the three rooms, a vivid orange paint drools down the chairs, oozes onto the floor and splashes the décor, which is enhanced with cactus green detailing.

Recalling childhood memories, Toustem is contagiously playful: a perfect mise en bouche to sample an array of Basque-inspired dishes and tapas, that are both genuine and inventive. The perfect gastronomic joint at reasonable prices.

15 October 2007 | Travel