The hills around the Tuscan village of Camaiore have something the beachfront does not: absolute silence. Which is likely why this pair of 1765 villas once served as a monastery. You can see the appeal from the landscaped poolside: views to the Apuanian Alps in one direction and to the isle of Palmaria in the other. Inside, the view is equally impressive. Owner Riccardo Barsottelli - back in Tuscany after a career in fashion and a stint in Uruguay - decorated the interiors with a muted, retro palette and vintage furnishings passionately collected through the decades. Barsottelli is serious about the art and sculpture as well; he's curated all 12 guestrooms, as well as the luxurious lounge, with wholly unique works. The atmosphere is understandably relaxed. Barsottelli or a colleague will lend you a bicycle for a tour of the hills, or drive you down to the bustling beach. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, chef Gianluca organises intimate dinners of homemade pastas and seafood, served on the terrace. And on Mondays he offers cooking courses.