Daroco is proof that there are still surprises to be had in a city not exactly shy of restaurant openings. But then again, you’d expect nothing less from duo Alexandre Giesbert and Julien Ross, who are behind the successful eateries, Roco pizzeria, Rococo kebabs and Roca bistro.

This time, their new venture sits within Jean Paul Gaultier’s former flagship store in the listed Galerie Vivienne, an arcade built in 1923. Set over two levels, the lofty restaurant has been dressed by architects Olivier Delannoy and Francesca Errico, who smoothed out the existing exposed brick walls and raw cement columns with anthracite grey panels, plush petrol blue velvet banquettes and green marble tabletops. Upstairs, cult contemporary artist and tattooist SupaKitch was called on to create the mezzanine's wrought iron railing, which feature his trademark windblown leaves- a motif that continues on the flooring and which is also used as the restaurant’s logo. A final nod to JPG meanwhile, are the signature striped sailor-marinière T-shirts worn by the staff.

The food is typical Italian trattoria. With fresh pizza dough, pastas and ice-creams made in-house, expect crisp pizzas to emerge from a wood-fired oven, rustic linguine carbonara and creamy tiramisu with a base of homemade cookies. And don’t forget to finish off with a cup of exquisite coffee, supplied by Coutume Café.