Named after the legendary Melburnian bushranger Francis Melville, this new restaurant and bar in Melbourne’s oldest public house harks back to the gold rush days. The 1853 building’s most recent incarnation was as a dingy nightclub, but its fixtures and fittings have been stripped away by local firm Breathe Architecture to reveal skylights and the original bluestone walls and tiles. The drinks menu has Victorian-era wines and beers, such as the Tasmanian brew Boag’s Draught, and old-fashioned cocktails with names like Nuggety Gully. The bar opens onto a large communal dining hall, where head chef Shayne McCallum (formerly of The Botanical and The Graham) serves up casual modern Australian fare, including crispy fried chicken and salt-and-pepper squid with black garlic aioli, with lots of shared dishes. New steel tent frames are a nod to the more basic hospitality of the gold rush era.